CALL OF THE WILD RICE CALIFORNIA GROWERS MAKING ONCE-EXOTIC GRAIN EASIER FOR HOME COOKS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Those shiny, deep, dark brown grains known as wild rice - sometimes referred to as the ``caviar of grains'' - are technically not rice at all, but the seeds of an aquatic grass known as Zizania Aquatica.

Although the rice once grew wild in streams and lakes and was an American Indian staple harvested by hand, today it is cultivated, grown in man-made paddies in California and is mechanically harvested.

Commercial production of California wild rice started in 1977 and has grown like Topsy ever since, says Jack DeWit, chairman of the Yuba City-based California Wild Rice Advisory Board. Today there are 40 wild rice growers in the state.

The industry grew to 16,000 planted acres in 1986, a boom year, and then dropped down to about 8,000, said DeWit. Now California has about 14,000 acres of wild rice. ``We don't plant more acres than Minnesota, we just harvest more pounds per acre - an average of 1,200 to 1,500 pounds per acre compared to Minnesota's average 1,000 pounds per acre.'' California surpassed Minnesota as the country's largest wild rice producer in 1998 and has remained there ever since, he added.

Wild rice consumption has been increasing about 5 percent a year for the last 10 years, according to Hiram Oilar, general manager, Fall River Wild Rice, Fall River Mills, Calif., one of the state's three largest growers and marketers of wild rice, adding that it is now a 20-million-pound industry nationally. Two-thirds of California's wild rice is grown in the Sacramento Valley, the other third in Northeastern California.

The crop is a fast-growing one. Seeds are dropped by plane into flooded fields, and after growing three to four months (from May to September), the grain is harvested and sent to processors. After being cured, it's either parched with dry heat or parboiled under pressure. Then it's dry-roasted, cleaned, hulled and sorted by size and usage.

Consumers have often shied away from wild rice in the past because it required a lot more cooking time than white rice and was expensive. But since California entered the market (with its efficient production costs), prices are more attractive. The $9- to $10-a-pound wild rice of the past now retails for around $4.99 or even less.

Along with uncooked wild rice (requiring 45 to 60 minutes cooking time), consumers will find fully cooked wild rice and wild and white rice blended products on market shelves.

A boon for cooks in a hurry, fully cooked, ready-to-serve 100 percent natural wild rice from Fall River Wild Rice is available in a 16-ounce package ($2.99) at Trader Joe's.

``We think this product, which came out a year and a half ago, will revolutionize the wild rice industry and increase consumption dramatically, as people don't want to cook their own rice,'' says Oilar. You can heat the package in boiling water and serve, or simply add the rice ``as is'' to salads, soups, stir-fries, hamburgers, casseroles, etc. Any unused rice can be stored in the refrigerator five to seven days.

Although some companies are producing a quick rice that cooks in about 20 to 30 minutes (as a result of a process called scarification that rubs off the outside bran layer, allowing water to penetrate the kernel more rapidly), currently consumers will only find it in other products like rice blends. (The quick-cook rice can be ordered online at www.frwr.com or by calling [phone].)

Crispy or puffed wild rice, which cooks in 5 to 7 minutes, is another product the industry makes for food companies to use in instant soups and trail mix, says DeWit.

Always on the lookout for new ways to use wild rice, Fall River Wild Rice now offers wheat- and gluten-free wild rice chips in three flavors (in 5.2- to 5.5-ounce and 1-ounce bags). Look for them in health food stores.

WILD RICE BANGKOK

(on the cover)

3 1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth 

3/4 cup uncooked wild rice

3/4 cup uncooked jasmine OR other long-grain white rice

2 tablespoons olive oil 

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced OR pressed

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1/2 cup finely slivered OR chopped fresh basil leaves

1/2 cup finely slivered OR chopped fresh mint leaves

Fresh basil and mint sprigs (optional)

Lime wedges (optional)

Large sauteed shrimp (about 1 pound)

In a 4- to 5-quart saucepan, bring broth to a boil over high heat. Add wild rice; reduce heat to low, cover tightly and simmer until grains begin to open and feel tender to bite, about 45 minutes. Stir in white rice. Cover tightly, and simmer until white and wild rice are tender to bite and liquid is absorbed, 20 to 25 more minutes.

While wild and white rice cook, heat olive oil in a 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion, garlic and ginger. Stir over medium heat until ginger is fragrant but not browned, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. In a small bowl, mix together soy sauce, lime juice and brown sugar until smooth. When rice is done, remove from heat and gently stir in onion-ginger mixture, soy sauce mixture, slivered basil and slivered mint. Transfer to a serving bowl; garnish with basil and mint sprigs and serve with lime wedges to squeeze over individual portions. Serve topped with large sauteed shrimp. Makes 6 servings.

VARIATIONS:

The variations that follow use only the first six ingredients of the Wild Rice Bangkok recipe, adding other ingredients of their own.

WILD RICE AZTECA: Proceed as directed above except to oil, onion and garlic in skillet, add 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained, 1 canned chipotle chile, minced, and 1 teaspoon ground cumin. Reduce heat to medium and stir until heated through, about 5 minutes. When rice is done, remove from heat and gently stir in onion-tomato mixture and 1/3 cup minced fresh cilantro until blended. Garnish each serving with a dollop of sour cream and avocado slices. Makes 6 to 8 side dish servings.

WILD RICE ATHENA: Proceed as directed above except to oil, onion and garlic mixture in skillet, add 1 (6.5-ounce) jar marinated artichokes, drained (reserve liquid) and chopped, 1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano OR 1/2 teaspoon dried and 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon peel. Stir often over medium heat until heated through. When rice is done, remove from heat and gently stir in onion-artichoke mixture, 1/4 cup reserved artichoke marinade, 1 cup crumbled feta cheese and 1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions. Serve immediately. Makes 6 to 8 side dish or 4 main dish servings.

TUNA AND WILD RICE SALAD

4 fresh Ahi tuna steaks

3 cups cooked wild rice

8 sun-dried tomatoes, rehydrated and julienned

3 green onions, chopped

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Dijon Vinaigrette

1 pound mixed baby greens OR butter lettuce

3 slices pancetta (Italian bacon), cut-up and cooked (optional)

Grill or pan grill tuna until cooked through. Break into bite-size pieces and cool. Combine wild rice, sun-dried tomatoes, green onions, parsley, tuna and Dijon Vinaigrette; toss to mix well. Cover and chill until ready to serve. To serve, place on a mound of baby greens on each of 6 plates. Spoon rice mixture over top and garnish with pancetta. Makes 6 servings.

DIJON VINAIGRETTE: Whisk together until blended 1/4 cup sherry OR other wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1/2 cup olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Makes 3/4 cup.

DRIED FRUIT RICE PILAF

2 cups chicken broth

1 cup uncooked wild rice, rinsed

1 tablespoon butter

1 onion, slice in thin wedges

2 teaspoons packed brown sugar

1/4 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup dried cranberries OR cherries

1/4 cup chopped dried apricots

1 teaspoon grated orange peel

Juice from 1 orange

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Combine chicken broth and wild rice in a medium saucepan; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 40 minutes or until almost tender.

In a small saucepan, melt butter over low heat; stir in onion and brown sugar. Cook 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onion is tender and lightly browned.

Add cooked onions, raisins, cranberries, apricots, orange peel, orange juice and pepper to almost tender cooked rice mixture. Cover and simmer 10 minutes or until rice is tender and grains have puffed open. Stir in parsley. Makes 6 servings.

CALIFORNIA STIR-FRY

1 (6-ounce) package frozen pea pods

1/4 cup sliced green onions

1 small clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons cooking oil

1 1/2 to 2 cups cooked wild rice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

In a colander, thaw pea pods under hot running water. Cut pea pods crosswise in half. In a wok or skillet stir-fry pea pods, onions and garlic in hot oil 1 to 2 minutes or until pea pods are crisp-tender. Stir in wild rice, salt and pepper. Stir-fry about 2 minutes more or until heated through. Makes 4 servings.

CORN AND WILD RICE SOUP WITH SMOKED SAUSAGE

2 1/2 cups (OR more) canned low-salt chicken broth

1 1/4 cups uncooked wild rice (about 7 1/2 ounces)

6 1/4 cups frozen corn kernels (about 2 1/2 pounds), thawed

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

10 ounces fully cooked smoked sausage (such as kielbasa), cut into 1/2-inch cubes

3 carrots, peeled and diced

2 medium onions, chopped

1 1/2 cups half-and-half

Salt and pepper to taste

Chopped fresh chives OR parsley

In a heavy medium saucepan, heat 5 cups broth to boiling. Add wild rice and simmer, uncovered, over medium heat until all liquid evaporates and rice is almost tender, stirring occasionally, about 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, blend 3 3/4 cups corn and 1 1/2 cups chicken broth in food processor until a thick, almost smooth puree forms. Heat vegetable oil in a heavy large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add sausage and saute until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add carrots and onions and stir 3 minutes. Add remaining 6 cups chicken broth and heat to boiling. Reduce heat to low and simmer soup 15 minutes.

Add cooked wild rice, corn puree and remaining 2 1/2 cups corn kernels to soup. Cook until wild rice is very tender and flavors blend, about 15 minutes longer. Mix in half-and-half. Thin soup with more chicken broth, if desired. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Soup can be prepared 2 days ahead. Refrigerate until cold; cover and keep refrigerated. Rewarm soup over medium-low heat before continuing.)

Ladle soup into bowls. Garnish with chives or parsley and serve. Makes 12 servings.

From Bon Appetit, November 1995 issue.

WILD RICE SALAD VICKI LEE BOYAJIAN CAFE

Water

1/2 pound uncooked wild rice (about 1 1/2 cups), rinsed

2 celery ribs, cut into 1/4-inch dice

2 small vine-ripened tomatoes, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice

1/2 carrot, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1/2 red onion, chopped fine

1/2 red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1/2 green bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1/2 yellow bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted until golden

1/2 cup raisins

6 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large saucepan bring 5 cups salted water to a boil. Add wild rice and cook over medium heat, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 40 to 45 minutes. Drain rice and transfer to a bowl. Chill rice, covered, until cold, about 2 hours.

In a large bowl combine vegetables, almonds and raisins and toss with cold wild rice. In another bowl, whisk together balsamic vinegar, oil, garlic and salt and pepper. Pour dressing over salad and toss well. (Salad may be made 2 days ahead and chilled, covered.) Makes 6 servings.

From Gourmet, July 1996 issue.

BAKED WILD RICE AMANDINE 

1/3 cup sliced almonds

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces and softened

1 cup uncooked wild rice (about 6 ounces), rinsed and drained

2 1/4 cups chicken broth, heated to boiling

1/4 teaspoon salt

In a 10-inch round OR 2-quart baking dish, toast almonds in a preheated 375-degree oven, about 3 to 5 minutes or until golden brown, watching carefully. Add butter, rice, hot broth and salt; mix well. Cover dish tightly with foil. Bake in lower third of a 375-degree oven about 1 hour and 15 minutes or until rice is tender. If all of broth has not been absorbed, bake rice, uncovered, 5 minutes more. Rice may be made 1 day ahead, refrigerated and reheated before serving. Makes 4 servings.

From Gourmet, December 1996 issue.

Go wild

A few wild rice tidbits.

--When cooking wild rice, figure on using 3 to 4 cups of liquid for every cup of uncooked rice. When properly cooked, the kernels are tender, not mushy, with many having burst open, revealing a cream-colored interior. Optimally, cooked wild rice will have a chewy texture, although some prefer it softer. Overcooking will cause kernels to curl. ``If you undercook it, it tastes like sticks; overcook it and it gets mushy,'' says Hiram Oilar, general manager of Fall River Wild Rice.

--If package directions are unavailable for cooking rice, here are a couple of methods to choose from. Keep in mind that cooking time will vary with the source of the grain and how it was processed - but it is always much longer than white rice.

STOVETOP: Heat 3 to 4 cups water or broth to boiling in a saucepan. Add 1 cup uncooked wild rice, return to boiling, then cover pan and reduce heat to low. Simmer 45 to 60 minutes or until rice is tender. Drain off any excess liquid. Fluff with fork.

OVEN: In a 2-quart oven dish, pour 3 cups boiling water or broth over 1 cup raw wild rice. Cover and bake at 350 degrees 1 hour or longer, until tender. Drain off any excess liquid and fluff with a fork.

Some cooks like to use a rice cooker, but be aware it will require a longer cooking time than white rice for the liquid to be absorbed.

--Wild rice expands three to four times after cooking. One cup uncooked (6 ounces) will yield about 3 to 4 cups cooked. One pound uncooked wild rice measures about 2 2/3 cups and will yield about 8 to 10 cups cooked. Wild rice can be served hot, warm or chilled.

--Store uncooked rice in a dry, airtight container; it will keep indefinitely. It can also be stored in the refrigerator or freezer. Cooked wild rice will keep, covered, in the refrigerator a week.

--Wild rice has more protein than other rices, is low in fat, a good source of fiber and contains about 82 calories per 1/2 cup cooked.

- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) WILD RICE BANGKOK

(2 -- color) Tuna and Wild Rice Salad

(3 -- color) DRIED FRUIT RICE PILAF

(4 -- color) no caption (Wild rice)

Box:

Go wild (see text)