CALL IT MUY DELICIOSO BY ANY NAME, JARAS OFFERS MEXICAN FARE TO ENJOY IN BURBANK.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic IS IT JARAS or is it Ana's? The sign outside tells you that this longtime Burbank Mexican restaurant goes under the name Jaras. But the cover page of the menu proffered as soon as you're seated boldly informs you you're eating at Ana's. ``So what's the name of this restaurant?'' I ask the waiter, ``Jaras or Ana's?'' He grins and goes into a long explanation about how this Jaras restaurant was once part of a small chain of Mexican restaurants owned and operated by Ana's and eventually, all but this one was sold. Of course, by the time he explains all this, I'm not sure I really care anyway, but am certainly surprised to hear that the restaurant has been around for 32 years; I must have passed it a multitude of times. Jaras/Ana's, sporting a colorful, newly painted facade, is a full-service restaurant with a liquor license Noun 1. liquor license - a license authorizing the holder to sell alcoholic beverages liquor licence license, permit, licence - a legal document giving official permission to do something , allowing it to dispense reasonably priced, classically mixed margaritas available on occasion as low as $1.75 between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. But thankfully, it doesn't seem to have the usual raucous bar crowd of a margarita emporium. In fact the drinks for diners or lounge sippers are dispensed at a small service bar. The capable kitchen cooks all the familiar Mexican fare with the usual combinations being emphasized. However, a dish like the traditional Yucatan favorite, cochinita pibil Cochinita pibil (also puerco pibil) is a traditional Mexican slow-roasted pork dish from Yucatán. Preparation of traditional cochinita or puerco pibil involves marinating the meat in strongly acidic citrus juice, coloring it with annatto seed, and roasting the meat while it ($8.95) - achiote-seasoned pork simmered in a banana leaf Banana leaf is the leaf of the Banana plant. It is used as a decorative element for auspicious ceremonies in Hindu and Buddhist cultures. It is also used as a plate to serve food in countries like India. and plated with fried plantains, rice, black beans and pico de gallo Pico de gallo (Spanish for "rooster's beak") is the term generally referring to a fresh condiment made from chopped tomato, onion, and chiles (typically serranos or jalapeños). - provides a satisfying departure from the norm. A chunkier style of pork comes forth in the house version of chile verde Chile Verde is a Mexican and Mexican-American stew or sauce usually made from chunks of pork that have been slow cooked in chicken broth, garlic, tomatillos, and jalapeños. Sometimes the sauce is made with poblanos instead of or in addition to the jalapeños. ($8.95) in green-toned tomatillo sauce, especially gratifying grat·i·fy tr.v. grat·i·fied, grat·i·fy·ing, grat·i·fies 1. To please or satisfy: His achievement gratified his father. See Synonyms at please. 2. with boiled ``de la olla'' beans. Incidentally, most of the entrees include a choice of three soups (albondigas, tortilla or lentil lentil, leguminous Old World annual plant (Lens culinaris) with whitish or pale blue flowers. Its pods contain two greenish-brown or dark-colored seeds, also called lentils, which when fully ripe are ground into meal or used in soups and stews. , in order of my preference) or a chilled iceberg salad. Enchiladas here can be had several ways. I like the Jaras/Ana's edition of enchiladas Suizas ($8.95) filled with chicken, and topped with cheese and a piquant tomatillo sauce. There are also crab-stuffed enchiladas ($12.95) and chicken enchiladas topped with rich mole sauce ($8.95). But the mixture of crab meat, chicken and shrimp in an enchilada Cancun ($12.95) swathed with a bland cream sauce cream sauce n. A white sauce made by cooking together a mixture of flour and butter with milk or cream. Noun 1. cream sauce - white sauce made with cream appeared to need several daubs of salsa rojo to give it a touch of oomph. A healthy portion of guacamole ($4.25), fashioned from fresh avocado, green chiles, pimientos and onion, slightly chunky in texture the way I prefer it, and served up in a black crucible could be the best starter here. The everyday chile relleno The chile relleno, literally "stuffed pepper", is a dish of Mexican cuisine, consisting of a roasted fresh green Anaheim or poblano chili pepper stuffed with a melting cheese, such as queso Chihuahua or queso Oaxaca (traditionally), and/or picadillo meat made up of diced pork, , chicken taco Noun 1. chicken taco - a taco with a chicken filling taco - a tortilla rolled cupped around a filling or cheese enchilada ($2.95 a la carte or $6.95 each as an entree), also available in various combinations, are nicely handled by the kitchen. Jaras/Ana's may not win any spectacular culinary awards, but, for the most part, cooks tasty fare at fair prices while pouring a respectable, refreshing margarita. And that means it will probably stick around for another 32 years. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com JARAS MEXICAN CUISINE Food: Two and one half stars - Service: Three stars - Value: Two and one half stars Where: 4310 W. Magnolia Blvd., Burbank. Hours: Open for lunch, dinner, snacks and cocktails from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily except Sunday. Recommended items: Guacamole, albondigas soup, taquitos, enchiladas Suizas, chorizo cho·ri·zo n. pl. cho·ri·zos A very spicy pork sausage seasoned especially with garlic. [Spanish.] Noun 1. and eggs, chile verde, cochinita pibil. How much: Starters from $2.75 to $6.25, entrees from $8 to $13, flan dessert $2.95. Full bar. AE, MC, V. Reservations: Helpful. Call (818) 845-7217. CAPTION(S): 2 photos Photo: (1 -- 2) Chef Arnulfo Carrera, right, shows off the Cochinita Pibil, which features marinated pork and fried plantains, above, at Jaras Mexican Cuisine in Burbank. Evan Yee/Staff Photographer |
|
||||||||||||
Printer friendly
Cite/link
Email
Feedback
Reader Opinion