Bursting at the seams: interesting beginnings.

the first colonists, or Pilgrims, as they are better known, founded Jamestown, Virginia, in May of 1607. Faced with the ever-present danger of attack by Spanish ships venturing close to shore, the settlers chose a site away from the coastline that was less vulnerable. Located on the banks of the James River, the newly formed English colony was located approximately sixty miles from the mouth of Chesapeake Bay. However, little did the new settlers realize that the Spanish would be the least of their worries: The colonists were under attack from their on and off-again enemy, the Algonquin natives. Disease harsh winter conditions, famine, as well as continuing battles with the Algonquins took their toll on the settlers. During this time, the Powhatten Indian tribe sporadically provided the colony with food supplies in return for copper and iron implements. Unfortunately, the settlement finally succumbed to overwhelming adversities and the colonists abandoned the site in the spring of 1609.

another group of English settlers landed in Plymouth, Massachusetts, in 1620. Unlike their counterparts in Jamestown, who primarily sought economic gain in the New World, these pilgrims left England to escape religious persecution. But despite their different motivations for immigrating to the New World, the two colonies shared a common thread when it came to the foods they ate; they both brought to America "preconceived tastes and culinary customs of the British Isles." However, plants and animal species, as well as customs in a new land, were very different from those in their native country. Although they were able to preserve some of their British culinary traditions, they were also forced by necessity to establish new ones. Relying on an abundance of game, fowl, and fish and--thanks to the Native Americans--new techniques for cultivating the land, English colonists adapted to Indian fare. Wild fowl was an integral part of their cuisine, and turkey was a prime choice for stuffing and eating. A turkey fill ed to the brim with savory stuffing was destined to become a staple of Thanksgiving dinner, which most of us still enjoy to this day.

Four and twenty blackbirds

Nearly every culture has its own stuffing recipe file replete with long lists of provocative ingredients. These stuffings incorporate distinctive flavors and are prepared and cooked according to each culture's unique culinary heritage and style. Initially, stuffings in sixteenth century England were used as pie fillings. Often, fowl meat was mixed with gooseberries, sugar, cinnamon, butter, egg yolks, salt, and verjuice, and then poured into a pie shell and baked. A short time later, these types of stuffings were packed into the cavities of fowl before cooking. Besides adding flavor to pies and birds, stuffing had other useful benefits. Rich-in-fat blends added moisture and extra flavor to drier meats and game, while, in contrast, starch-based mixtures soaked up flavorful juices from the inside of a bird, and these juices added to the taste of the stuffing itself.

culinary intrigue

Along with the practical uses and advantages of stuffings comes a bit of anticipation, mystery, and perhaps a bit of suspicion. When looking at a tray of pastry-wrapped hors d'oeuvres, one can't help wonder what flavored mixture lies just below the surface. What isn't a mystery, though, is that stuffings have found a welcome place in all cuisines and their variations are limitless. Moving on from the simple act of placing stuffing inside the cavity of a turkey or a chicken before roasting, we've progressed to the delicate art of placing stuffing just below the skin of many other types of fowl, as well. We also butterfly veal chops, pork chops, and salmon filets and place aromatic combinations of rice, nuts, grains, and fruits within. Savory stuffings also find their way inside of apples, pears, peppers, tomatoes, onions, pumpkins, artichokes, pastas, and even breads. Rendered mushrooms, with their natural juices, are the perfect foils for puff pastries; sweet, whisked creams and soft-colored custards add anot her dimension to these delicate shells as well as to curled-when-warm tuiles. We stuff strudel dough with apples, sugar, raisins, and cinnamon, and phyllo beggars' purses with tropical fruits. Even chocolate shells aren't immune to being filled with soft ganache, flavored with a hint of liquor.

Stuffings have been around for ages in many forms--be they sweet or savory. As a part of a chef's repertoire, stuffings, with their wide variety of ingredients and versatility, add interesting and flavorful dimensions to even the most unexciting dish.

cressotti & kobayashi bios

michael cressotti hiroyuki kobayashi

SUSHISAMBA

New York, New York

fusing the flavors of three different countries is no ordinary feat but one that chefs Michael Cressotti from SUSHISAMBA 7 and Hiro Kobayashi from SUSHISAMBA Park, respectively, have successfully accomplished. While on a culinary expedition to Peru and Brazil, Cressotti and Kobayashi discovered the cultural and culinary parallels between Peru, Brazil, and Japan. How did Japan get into this mix? Brazil has the largest population of Japanese outside of Japan, while Peru has a large population of Japanese-Peruvian chefs known as "Nikkei" chefs.

Seeking to recreate their Latin American and Japanese food experiences back in New York, Cressotti and Kobayashi developed menus that integrate a diverse blend of ingredients and flavors inherent to the cuisine of all three cultures. The approach to their dishes is unfussy and straightforward. "We try not to overwork the food," states Chef Cressotti. "We use simple ingredients indigenous to three different cuisines that play well with each other. The tastes are clean, modest, and have substance. I want diners to come away from the restaurant with the feeling that we're not just pulling stuff out of our hats--that this fusion thing really does work and makes sense. We are also trying to give people foods--done the right way--that they wouldn't normally have unless they were lucky enough to travel throughout the three different countries." Chef Kobayashi seconds these emotions: "Although my style and training are traditionally Japanese, I'm able to bring Latin American flavors and ingredients into my foods as w ell, based on memories of my homeland, travel, and research. It's a challenge for me to integrate all of the flavors, but I'd have to say that it, in turn, keeps the food interesting and gives me a lot of freedom to be creative."

With three popular SUSHISAMBA restaurants in full swing (the two in NewYork and SUSHISAMBA Dromo in Miami), there must be something to this "fusion thing," after all. Plans for a fourth restaurant, SUSBISAMBA Rio, in Chicago's River North neighborhood are underway with its doors slated to open in early 2003.

hsu bio

en-ming hsu

The Ritz-Carlton Chicago, Illinois

executive Pastry Chef En-Ming Hsu's approach to her pastry creations is a true reflection of her years as an art student: "I'm so glad that I paid attention in class!" Hsu exclaims. "The lessons I learned in two and three-dimensional design definitely influences the pieces that I build as well as helps me with plate presentations and buffet set-ups. It's all about design and structure--what works and what doesn't."

While studying photography and studio arts at Skidmore College in Saratoga Springs, New York, Chef Hsu started to hear rumblings about a culinary school not too far away in Hyde Park. The school turned out to be The Culinary Institute of America, which piqued her interest: "I have always loved to cook and thought that if I got the chance, I'd attend the CIA. My parents suggested that I work in the industry for a bit before applying to see if this was really what I wanted to do for a living. So, I went to work for a small catering company in Connecticut and the experience was fabulous. It gave me many of the foundations that I still practice today. It also taught me a lot about small business. While working my way through the CIA, I was able to put into practice many of the lessons that I had accrued while catering. The school experience also unearthed, within me, a passion for baking and pastry."

After graduation, Chef Hsu worked for Gray Kunz in New York's exclusive Lespinasse: "Gray is such a talented chef--a true cook in every sense of the word. Although he was very demanding to work for, if you did things his way or could do things better than he did, you knew that you were in good shape. The pressure in that place was unbelievable. But I know everyone in the kitchen really appreciated Gray and what he taught, and I have to surmise that this was the reason people stayed with him for years at a time. It was time well-spent."

Before starting her career at the Ritz-Carlton in Chicago, Chef Hsu worked with master pastry chef Dieter Schorner at the Patisserie Cafe Didier in Washington, D.C. Again, she was able to work with one of the best in the industry. But it is her experience at the Ritz that has truly enriched her culinary life for the last eight years. Under the direction of her mentor, Sebastien Canonne, Hsu fine-tuned her work and following a three-year job as assistant executive pastry chef, moved up to the executive pastry chef position. Ever since, she has been creating award-winning desserts at the hotel and receiving accolades for her artistic creativity.

Winning a gold medal with the U.S. Pastry Team at the 2001 Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie in Lyon, France, further fueled Chef Hsu's commitment to staying on top of her game. This experience has also made her acutely aware of how important it is to work with her staff as a team. She makes it clear to them that being able to depend on each other and to work cohesively is what it takes to be successful. She is also adamant that they learn on a daily basis: "First and foremost, I want my staff to be proud of what they do every day. I hope that they've learned something that day that maybe they didn't expect to learn. I also tell them not to be impatient with the learning process. Take the time to really absorb the basics and go through this learning curve step-by-step. If you can accomplish this, all else will come in due time."

stegner

sarah stegner

The Ritz-Carlton Chicago, Illinois

honest, modest, and straightforward, Sara Stegner is much like the food she's been preparing at The Ritz-Carlton Chicago since 1984. When asked if her clientele's preferences ever influence her menu, she responds: "I don't necessarily gear my food towards clientele feedback, but I do get a good response from our diners. We shop for product at Chicago's Green City Market, and I actually bring the waiters there with me to get them involved in the process of how I choose items that will end up on the menu. I think their education regarding the dishes we create is just as important as it is for the cooks in our kitchen. Many of our customers shop at this market and are very aware of the fact that we're down there buying product from the local farms. This support is a part of their community, too, so it's a win-win situation for all of us."

Exchanging much needed down time for a visit to a local farm, Stegner realizes the importance of utilizing the freshest ingredients possible. She also realizes that being successful in the industry is a continual challenge, but one well worth the effort: "This industry is constantly changing and progressing. Much of what we do is dependent on finding better sources and developing better relationships with our farmers and purveyors--these are the unending challenges that make my job exciting. Our food is seasonal and based on good local product. The best part of my day is when product comes in, and we've decided what we're going to do with it--we just go for it, and it all seems to fall into place."

It's important for Chef Stegner that the front and back-of-the-house be focused, unified, and supportive of each other. She also respects the hotel for fostering this support system. "I like that everyone in the hotel seems to be working at the same level of intensity and quality. Taking care of the guests is paramount to all of us--making sure that their experience is as good as it can possibly be. This is one of the reasons why I stay at the hotel. As long as our philosophies are lined up and our aims and goals are on the same page, there is no reason for me to go anywhere else," Stegner reasons.

Kreuther bio

gabriel kReuther

Atelier

The Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park New York, New York

Surrounding himself with great cooks in outstanding restaurants is something Gabriel Kreuther has done successfully for years. As a result, he has been able to meet the daunting challenges that are a daily part of being an Executive Chef in a restaurant that showcases true Alsatian and French cuisine. Not easily intimidated, Chef Kreuther feels strongly that menus, as well as chefs, should be multi-faceted: "My approach to food and the business is a culmination of personal experiences that date back to my days of working for my uncle at his hotel and restaurant. From an early age, I was exposed to what it takes to make a restaurant successful. I learned that the foods I create have to have my own signature stamped on them. After working with so many great chefs, you eventually start to find your own way and know what you like and what you don't like. My influences are not only French, nor are my techniques. I like to mix things up a bit, and don't think my food should be focused on one particular country."

Chef Kreuther readily admits that the life of a chef is a hard one and that those working in kitchens should not have any misconceptions about what it takes to make it these days: "I'm pretty demanding of my staff but just as demanding of myself. I prefer to lead by example and have noticed through the years that by practicing this, respect will follow. It's all about teaching and sticking by your staff through good and bad times. I look at my relationships with my staff more as friendships. You know -- the work we do is difficult. But I really love what I do and hope this comes across to both my staff and my customers." Based on rave restaurant reviews of Chef Kreuther's garden-infused and imaginative menu, it's easy to "feel the love."

ijiki Rice Stuffed Red Uni (Serves 4)
Ingredients

** cup chopped scallions
3 ounces sake
2 tablespoons mirin **
2 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
4 cup steamed sushi rice
4 Cahtormaium cleaned, shells reserved ***
For ther garnish:
Reserved uni roe, 4 pieces
Perurian pink salt to taste ****
Schichimi togarashi to taste *****

* Hijiki is dried seaweed that is black in color and has a slight
anise like flavor. Available in Asian markets.

** Mirin is a Japanese sweet, golden rice wine. Available in
Asian markets.

*** Available through True World Foods at [phone].

**** Available through The Cooking School of Aspen at [phone].

***** Shichimi togarashi is a Japanese red pepper powder. Available
in Asian markets.

*[Unreadable in original source]

For the stuffing: In a medium saucepan, heat the, oil over medium heat, Add the hijiki and saute for 30 seconds. Add the carrot and scallions and saute for 30 seconds. Add the sake, mirim, soy sauce, and sugar. Simmer until the sugar is dissolved. Add the rice and mix to combine. Add the uni; mix to combine and set aside. Place the uni shells on a sheet pan. Divide the mixture among the shells; top with the reserved roe and set aside.

To finish the dish: Preheat the broiler. Place the sheet pan of stuffed uni shells under the broiler until the shells are warmed. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Place a stuffed uni sheel in the center of the dish. Sprinkle with the Peruvian pink salt and shichimi togarashi.

Amontillado Muy Viejo Sherry Del Duque

Gonolez Byass

Jerez Spain

Cabrales and Huacatay Stuffed Medjool Dates

(Services 4)

ngredients


For the dates:
1 cup Cabrales cheese *
1 cup Catupiry cheese **
1 sprig huacatay, stemmed and minced ***
3 ounces ground Brazil nuts
20 Medjool dates, pitted and sliced lengthwise
Salt and pepper to taste
For the balsamic glaze:
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup sake
1/2 cup mirin
1/2 onion, peeled and minced
1/3 cup aged balsamic vinegar
1/3 cup granulated sugar
For the garnish:
24 slices carne seca ****
Extra virgin olive oil
Brazil nuts, ground
Sea salt
Pea shoots

* Cabrales is a Spanish blue cheese. Available through Diaryland The
Chef's Warehouse at [phone].

** Catupiry is a soft Brazilian cream cheese made of cow's milk.

*** Huacatay is black Peruvian mint. Available through Kitchen Market at
[phone].

**** Carne seca is an air-dried meat popular in Brazil.

Available upon request from most butchers.

directions

For the dates: In a medium bowl, combine the Cabrales, Catupiry cream cheese, huacatay, and Brazil nuts, and season. Using a rubber spatula, mix until smooth. Transfer cheese mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a small, plain tip and pipe the filling into the dates. Reserve at room temperature.

For the balsamic glaze: In a small saucepan, combine all of the ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce the beat and simmer until reduced by half. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Preheat the broiler to 350 degrees. Arrange the dates on a sheet pan and lightly brown, about one minute. On each plate, arrange six slices of carne seca slightly overlapping each other. Place a stuffed date in the center of each slice. Spoon a small amount of the balsamic glaze around each date and then drizzle with the oil. Garnish with the ground Brazil nuts, sea salt, and pea shoots.

Shiraz Grenache The Victor

Lengs and Cooter

Clare Valley, Australia 2001

iRoyuki kobayashi

Sushi Sambaa 4 (Serves 4)

ingredients


For the tsukudani:
3 sheets nori
1 tablespoon mirin
1 tablespoon dashi broth *
1 teaspoon sake
1 teaspoon soy sauce
Salt to taste
For the wasabi guacamole:
1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and diced
1/2 red onion, peeled and minced
1/4-inch piece wasabi, peeled and grated
White soy sauce
Salt to taste
For the tuna:
1 small Japanese yam, peeled, diced and steamed **
1/2 teaspoon white soy sauce
4 ounces tuna, sashimi quality
1/4-inch piece wasabi, peeled and grated
4 sprigs myoga leaves ***
For the yellowtail:
4 ounces yellowtail fillet, cut into four long slices
2 tablespoons moromi miso ****
1/2 jalapeno pepper, seeded, and minced
1 red jalapeno pepper, seeded, sliced
Pinch red pepper threads *
For the salmon:
4 ounces salmon filet, cut into four long slices
Reserved wasabi guacamole
1 cherry tomato, quartered
1 jalapeno, seeded, sliced
1 sprig cilantro, stemmed
1/4 teaspoon ground pink peppercorn
For the scallops:
4 sea scallops
1 ounce goat cheese
1/2 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1/4 bunch chives, minced
Reserved tsukudani
1 sheet gold leaf
For the garnish:
Fried soba noodles
Carrot, peeled and julienned
Leek, trimmed and julienned, white part only
Chives, trimmed to 3-inch lengths

* Available in Japanese markets.

** Dashi is a Japanese broth made of bonito and konbu and is available
in Japanese markets.

*** Myoga is a fragrant relative of ginger that is similar in color to a
peeled shallot. Available in Japanese markets.

**** Moromi miso is a thick, dark, stronger-flavored variety of miso.
Available in Japanese markets.

directions

For the tsukadani: In a medium saucepan, combine all of the ingredients and simmer until thickened. Season to taste with salt and remove from the heat. Set aside at room temperature.

For the wasabi guacamole: In a bowl, mix together the avocado, onion, and wasabi. Season to taste with the soy sauce and salt. Set aside, keeping chilled.

For the tuna: In a bowl, combine the yam and soy sauce. Divide the yam into four equal amounts. Wrap a slice of tuna around one-quarter of the yam mixture. Shape into a circle and dot with wasabi and a leaf of myoga. Set aside, keeping chilled.

For the yellowtail: Shape the yellowtail into four tall circles and fill the centers with moromi miso and top with minced jalapenos. Sprinkle with red pepper threads and arrange red jalapeno slices on top. Set aside, keeping chilled.

For the salmon: Shape the salmon into four tall circles. Fill the centers with reserved guacamole. Set a piece of cherry tomato on top with sliced green jalapeno and a leaf of cilantro. Sprinkle with the ground pink peppercorn. Garnish with a few whole pink peppercorns. Set aside, keeping chilled.

For the scallops: Cut a hole through the centers of the scallops. In a bowl, mix the goat cheese, garlic, and chives together. Add the tsukudani and mix well. Stuff into the centers of the scallops and lay a piece of gold leaf on top. Set aside, keeping chilled.

To serve: Neatly lay a small bunch of fried soba noodles on a long plate and place a piece of stuffed tuna on top. Place julienned carrots next to the tuna and top with a piece of stuffed yellowtail. Place julienned leeks next to the yellowtail and top with, a piece of stuffed salmon. Neatly arrange the chives next to the salmon and top with a stuffed soallon.

Junmai-Ginjo Sake Ichirin

Kaika Kazeno

Tochigi, Japan

hort Ribs "Ropa Veija" Stuffed Baby Squid (Serves 4)
ingredients


For the short ribs:
4 tablespoons grapeseed oil
5 pounds beef short ribs
2 onions, peeled and chopped
3 carrots, peeled and chopped
6 ribs celery, chopped
2 1/2 cups red wine
5 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
6 black peppercorns
Water, as needed
Salt and pepper to taste
For the Japanese mustard oil:
1/4 cup Japanese mustard powder *
Water, as needed
1/2 cup canola oil
For the corn arepas **:
12 ounces corn kernels, steamed
4 ounces mozzarella cheese, grated
3/4 cup extra-fine cornmeal
1 tablespoon milk
3/4 cup granulated sugar
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
For the squid:
4 small squid, cleaned
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Lobster mushrooms, seasoned and sauteed
Extra virgin olive oil
Fried ajicito peppers ***
Mache

* Japanese mustard powder is also called karashi. Available through
Nishimoto Trading Company at [phone].

** Arepas are a version of South American corn cakes.

*** Available through Manhattan Fruit at [phone].

directions

michael CRessotti

For the short ribs: In a large saute pan, heat the oil.

Season the short ribs and sear on all sides. Remove from the pan and set aside. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and saute until browned. Deglaze with red wine and return the short ribs to the pan. Add the thyme, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Add enough water to cover the short ribs and bring to a simmer. Cook until tender, about two hours. Season and remove the short ribs from the liquid and use a fork to shared the meat while warm. Reduce the remaining cooking liquid by half and reserve one-half cup, keeping warm. Add thc shredded short rib meat to the remaining liquid. Divide the rib meat mixture in half, keeping one half warm. Set the other half of the mixture aside to cool.

For the Japanese mustard oil: In a saucepan, acid enough water to the mustard powder to form a paste. Add the oil and whisk to combine. Heat the mixture over low heat for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and discard the solids. Set aside to cool at room temperature and reserve.

For the corn arepas: Place the corn on a cloth and squeeze to remove the excess moisture. Transfer to a food processor and puree until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and add the mozzarella cheese. Add the cornmeal, milk, sugar, salt, and pepper and mix to combine. Cover and refrigerate the mixture until firm, about two hours. Heat two tablespoons of oil in a medium saucepan. Divide the mixture into four 3 1/2-inch ring molds. Saute until golden brown on both sides. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

For the squid: Prepare a hot grill. Separate the tentacles from the body and reserve. Stuff the body with the cooled short rib mixture and season with salt and pepper. Secure the ends with a toothpick and grill the stuffed squid until marked on all sides. Grill the tentacles until cooked and remove from the heat, keeping warm.

To serve: Arrange the lobster mushrooms at the center of the plate. Set a corn arepa in the center of the mushrooms with a spoonful of short ribs on top. Place a stuffed squid on top of the short ribs. Arrange a set of tentacles to one side and a fried pepper on the other. Drizzle the reserved short rib reduction around the dish along with the Japanese mustard oil. Garnish with the mache.

Zinfandel

Mauritson

Sonoma, California 1999

ichael CRessotti

Shrimp and Coconut Rice Stufffed Squash (Serves 4)
ingredients


For the squash:
4 acorn squash, ends trimmed
and seeded
Salt and pepper to taste
For the stuffing:
1 teaspoon dende oil *
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1/2 onion, peeled and diced
4 pieces hearts of palm, sliced
2 plum tomatoes, diced
2 cups coconut milk
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 bunch scallions, chopped
2 sprigs cilantro, stemmed
and chopped
1 1/4 pounds tiger shrimp, shelled
and 4 heads reserved for garnish
3/4 cup Catupiry cheese **
1/4 cup panko breadcrumbs
Salt and pepper to taste
For the coconut rice:
1 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut milk
4 cups steamed white rice
1/3 cup shredded and toasted coconut
1/2 bunch scallions, chopped
2 coconuts, halved and warmed
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Fried tiger shrimp heads
Coconut, shaved and toasted
Dende oil
Bamboo leaves

* Dende oil is the oil of palm nuts and is used primarily in Brazil.
Available at Brazilian markets.

** Catupiry cheese is a Brazilian cream cheese. Available through
Dairyland The Chef's Warehouse at [phone].

directions

For the acorn squash: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Season and wrap the squash individually in aluminum foil. Place on a sheet pan and roast in the oven until tender, about one hour. Remove from the oven; unwrap and set aside, keeping warm.

For the stuffing: In a medium saute pan, heat the oil. Add the garlic, onion, hearts of palm, and tomatoes and saute until the onions are translucent. Add the coconut milk, cumin, scallions, and cilantro. Bring to a boil and add the shrimp. Simmer for two minutes and stir in the Catupiry cheese. Season and remove from the heat. Spoon the stuffing into the reserved squash. Sprinkle panko breadercrumbs on top of the stuffing and place in the oven until the breadcrumbs are golden. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

For the coconut rice: In a medium saucepan, bring the coconut milk to a boil. Add the rice cook until heated through. Remove from the heat. Add the coconut and scallions; season and mix to combine. Spoon the rice into the warmed coconut halves and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Place a stuffed acorn squash on the plate. Drizzle dende oil on top of the squash. Garnish the stuffed squash with the fried tiger shrimp heads and toasted coconut shavings. Lay a bamboo leaf next to the squash. Set a coconut stuffed with rice on top of the leaf. Garnish the stuffed coconut halves with toasted coconut shavings.

Chardonnay Metallico

Morgan

Monterey, California 200

n-ming hsu

Shepherds' Cheese Pithiviers with Honey-Scented Pears (Serves 4)
ingredients


For the honey-scented pears:
1 tablespoon Plugra butter *
2 Packham pears, peeled, cored, and diced
2 ounces Acacia honey
Juice of 1/2 lemon
For the port wine syrup:
1/2 cup port wine
1 ounce Madeira
1 ounce brandy
2 ounces granulated sugar
1 teaspoon minced black truffle
For the pithiviers:
1 egg
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 each Old Chatham Sheepherding Company Mutton Buttons **
1 black truffle, minced
1 pound puff pastry
For the garnish:
Champagne grapes
Black truffles, julienned

* Available through Dairyland The Chef's Warehouse at [phone].

** Available through Old Chatham Sheepherding Company at (800) SHEEP-60.

directions

For the honey-scented pears: In a saute pan, melt half the butter and add the pears. Saute until softened and add the honey. Allow the honey to caramelize slightly. Reduce the heat and simmer until the liquid reduces to a glaze. Add in the remaining butter and lemon juice. Set aside to cool.

For the port wine syrup: In a saucepan, combine all of the ingredients and bring to a boil. Simmer and reduce to the consistency of syrup. Cool and transfer to a plastic squeeze bottle. Keep refrigerated.

For the pithiviers: Preheat a convection oven to 375 degrees. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg and salt and place the egg wash in the refrigerator. Cut the tops off of the cheese and scoop out two teaspoons from each center. Place a small amount of minced truffle inside of the cheese and replace the reserved cheese and tops. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the puff pastry out to three-sixteenths of an inch thick. Using a three and one-half-inch round cutter, cut out four circles. Using a six-inch round cutter, cut out four circles. Place the cheese in the center of the three and one-half-inch puff pastry circles. Brush egg wash on top of the cheese and around the edges of the smaller circles. Place the larger puff pastry circles on top of the cheese, pressing the edges together firmly to seal. With a sharp paring knife, score the top surfaces of the rounds and cut a small vent hole in the top. Brush the surface with egg wash. Place the pithiviers on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Bake until golde n brown, about 20-25 minutes. Cool slightly before serving.

To serve: Place a pithiviers in the center of a plate. Drizzle the port wine reduction around the pithiviers. Spoon the honey-scented pears around the dish. Garnish with the champagne grapes and julienned black truffles.

Riesling, Pinnacle

Blackwood Canyon

Columbia Valley, Washington 1986

incemeat Stuffed Apples (Serves 8)
ingredients


For the mincemeat stuffing:
4 ounces granulated sugar
4 ounces suet, minced
4 ounces dried currants
4 ounces raisins
4 ounces golden raisins
1 ounce candied orange peel, chopped
Grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled and grated
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg powder
1/4 teaspoon mace powder
1/2 teaspoon Ceylon cinnamon powder *
9 ounces brandy
For the apple cider tuiles:
8 ounces granulated sugar
2 1/2 ounces cake flour, sifted
1/4 cup fresh apple cider
7 ounces unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon pistachio nuts, chopped
For the Calvados ice cream:
2 pints milk
2 pints heavy cream
4 egg yolks
3 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
1 /12 ounces Calvados
For the sugar apples:
2 pounds, 1 ounce granulated sugar
10 ounces water
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
Food coloring
For the baked apples:
8 Granny Smith apples
4 ounces Plugra butter **
Turbinado sugar, as needed
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 cup fresh apple cider
Reserved mincemeat filling
For the apple cider syrup:
1 quart fresh apple cider
1 stick Saigon cinnamon *
10 ounces granulated sugar
For the garnish:
Pistachio nuts, chopped
Sugar decoration

* Available through The Spice House at [phone].

** Available through Dairyland The Chef's Warehouse at [phone].

directions

For the mincemeat: In a bowl, combine all the ingredients and store in an airtight plastic bag. Reserve in the refrigerator for two weeks.

For the apple cider tuiles: Prepare a silpat-lined sheet pan. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine the sugar and flour. Add the cider and butter and mix until smooth. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Using a palette knife, thinly spread the tuile mix into desired shapes on the silpat. Sprinkle with chopped pistachios. Bake until golden brown. Remove from the heat and while hot, mold into the desired shapes. Store in an airtight container.

For the Calvados ice cream: In a saucepan, bring the milk and cream to a boil. In a bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar and whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot milk while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered yolks back into the hot milk and cook, stirring constantly until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve, Set aside in an ice bath until cooled. Add the Calvados and freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions. Transfer the ice cream to a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip and reserve in the freezer.

For the sugar apples: Prepare a silpat on a heatproof surface with a heat lamp. In a saucepan over low heat, combine the sugar, water, and cream of tartar. Set aside a small bowl of water and a two-inch brush. Bring the mixture to a boil and skim off any foam that develops on the surface. Using the wet brush, quickly wash down the sides of the saucepan to remove any sugar crystals that develop. Cook until the temperature reaches 248 degrees. Add the desired food coloring and continue cooking until the syrup reaches 330 degrees. Remove from the heat and pour onto the silpat. Cool the sugar slightly and carefully pull the sugar to the desired thickness. Blow the sugar into an apple shape and using an atomizer, color as desired. Using a hot knife, cut a hole at the base of the apple. Set aside in an airtight container.

For the baked apples: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Trim off the tops and bottoms of the apples so they are two inches high. Using a two and one-half-inch ring cutter, cut the apples into tall cylinders. Core the apples and discard the centers. In a saute pan, melt the butter and sugar. Add the apples, drizzle in the lemon juice and toss to coat. Remove from the heat and stuff the apples with the mincemeat filling. Add the cider to the pan and bake until the apples are soft, basting often with the liquid. Keep warm until ready to serve.

For the apple cider syrup: In a saucepan, bring all the ingredients to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for ten minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick and discard. Set aside in an ice bath to cool and reserve in the refrigerator.

To serve: Place a baked apple in the center of a plate. Lay an apple cider tuile on top. Pipe the ice cream into the center of the sugar apple. Set the filled sugar apple on top of the apple cider tuile. Drizzle the apple cider syrup around the plate and garnish with pistachio nuts and sugar decorations.

Zweigelt Rose Trackenbeerenauslese No. 9 Nouvelle Vague

Alois Kracher

Burgenland, Austria 1995

roquembouche

(Makes 10 individual croquembouches)


ingredients
For the pastry chocolate cream:
1 quart milk
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
5 ounces granulated sugar
9 egg yolks
3 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch, sifted
1 ounce all-purpose flour, sifted
7 ounces Valrhona chocolate, chopped
3 1/2 ounces Grand Marnier
5 ounces heavy cream
For the profiteroles:
3 ounces unsalted butter, chilled and diced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup water
5 ounces all purpose flour sifted
4 eggs
Egg wash
Reserved pastry cream
For the nougatine:
14 ounces glucose
1 pound granulated sugar
14 ounces almonds, chopped, toasted, and warmed
For the caramel:
1 pound granulated sugar
2/3 cup water
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
For the garnish:
Pearl sugar as needed *
Reserved pieces of nougatine

* Available through Paris Gourmet at (800) PASTRY-1.

directions

For the chocolate pastry cream: In a large saucepan, bring the milk, vanilla, and half the sugar to a boil; reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a large bowl, combine the egg yolks, cornstarch, flour, and remaining sugar and whisk until smooth. Slowly add one-third of the hot milk mixture to the egg mixture while whisking rapidly. Pour the tempered egg mixture back into the remaining milk. Return the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens, about one minute. Remove from the heat and mix in the chocolate. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice bath until cooled. Cover the surface with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Once chilled, mix in the Grand Marnier and fold the whipped cream into the pastry cream. Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a small, plain tip and reserve in the refrigerator.

For the profiteroles: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a saucepan, bring the butter, salt, sugar, milk, and water to a boil. Add the flour all at once and stir constantly until the mixture forms a ball and pulls away from the sides of the pan. Transfer the mixture into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix on medium speed to coo1 slightly. Slowly add the eggs one at a time, mixing well between each addition. Transfer the mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a small, plain tip. Pipe half-inch rounds onto a silpat-lined sheet pan and brush with egg wash. Place in the oven to bake until, golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool completely. Using a small, round pastry tip, pierce a hole in the bottoms of the profiteroles and pipe in the pastry cream keep chilled.

For the nougatine: Preheat the oven to 275 degrees and prepare a silpat-lined sheet pan. In a saucepan, bring the glucose and sugar to a boil while stirring. Cook the sugar until it reaches a golden amber color. Stir in the almonds and pour out onto the silpat. Roll out the nougatine as thinly as possible on a warmed cutting board. Allow to harden and break into pieces large enough to be used as bases for the assembled croquembouches. Reserve in an airtight container.

For the caramel: Prepare a large bowl of cold water. In a medium saucepan, combine all of the ingredients. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cook until the mixture is a light golden color.

To assemble the croquembouches: Use lightly oiled cone-shaped forms to support :he profiteroles. Dip a profiterole in the hot caramel and then into the pearl sugar. Place on a lightly oiled sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining profiteroles. Using the hot caramel to glue each profiterole together, arrange the profiteroles in rows, with each subsequent row containing one less profiterole than the previous one. Allow the caramel to completely harden before removing the forms.

To serve: Set a large piece of nougatine on plate. Place a croquembouche on top of the nougatine. Garnish the plate with smaller pieces of the nougatine.

Tokaji Aszu, 5 Puttonyos

Bodrod-Varhedy

Tokaj-Hegyalia, Hungary 1995

innamon Coronets Stuffed with Milk Chocolate Bavarois (Serves 6)
Ingredients


For the chocolate sauce:
12 ounces water
10 ounces granulated sugar
8 ounces heavy cream
7 ounces Valrhona cocoa powder
For the chocolate Bavarois:
10 ounces cups milk
3 ounces granulated sugar
9 egg yolks
3 sheets gelatin, soaked in cold water
12 ounces Valrhona Jivara Lactee chocolate, chopped
20 ounces heavy cream, whipped
For the kumquat sauce:
5 ounces kumquats, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon arrowroot
10 ounces orange juice
4 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
4 ounces water
For the caramel-walnut filling:
3 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounces water
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/4 teaspoon fleur de sel
8 ounces creme fraiche
1 ounce honey
5 ounces finely chopped and toasted walnuts
For the coronets:
2 vanilla beans, split and scraped
3 ounces confectioners' sugar
1 teaspoon Saigon cinnamon powder *
Clarified butter, melted, as needed
12 sheets feuille de brik **
4 ounces kadayif dough ***

* Available through The Spice House at [phone].

** Available through Paris Gourmet at (800) PASTRY-1.

*** Kadayif dough is shredded phyllo dough. Available through Paris
Gournmet at (800) PASTRY-1.

directions

For the chocolate sauce: In a saucepan, bring the water and sugar to a boil. Add the cream and bring back to a boil. Whisk in the cocoa powder; reduce the heat and simmer for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside to cool and refrigerate overnight.

For the chocolate Bavarois: Place the chocolate in a largebowl and set aside. In a large saucepan, bring the milk and half of the sugar to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer. In a bowl, combine the egg yolks with the remaining sugar and whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolk mixture, adding one-third of the hot milk while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolks back into the hot milk and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and add the gelatin to dissolve. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into the bowl with the chocolate and whisk to combine. Place in an ice bath until cooled, and then fold in the whipped cream. Cover the surface with plastic wrap and refrigerate the mixture-until set, about four hours. Transfer the to a pastry bag fitted with a small, plain tip and refrigerate until needed.

For the kumquat sauce: Place the sliced kumquats in a bowl and set aside. In a small bowl, whisk one tablespoon of the orange juice to form a slurry. In a saucepan, bring the sugar, and water to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by into the orange juice reduction and simmer until thickened. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve and pour onto the sliced kumquats. Set aside in an ice bath to cool and keep refrigerated.

For the caramel-walnut filling: In a saucepan, bring the sugar, water, and cream of tartar to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer. In a bowl, mix together the fleur de sel, creme fraiche, and honey. When the mixture is lightly golden, add the creme fraiche mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture reaches a temperature of 250 degrees. Remove from the heat and add the walnuts. Stir to combine. Set aside to cool. Transfer to pastry bag fitted with a plain tip.

For the cinnamon coronets: Preheat the oven to 365 degrees. Cut the vanilla beans into thin, long strips and set aside. In a bowl, mix the confectioners' sugar with the cinnamon powder. Lay six feuilles de brik sheets on a flat work surface and brush with butter. Dust with the confectioners' sugar mixture. Sandwich two sheets of feuilles de brik together with the sugared sides facing each other to create three feuilles de brik sandwiches. Cut them in half and brush the top of each half with butter. Place a metal cone on the buttered side of each half and roll to form the coronets. Place on a parchment-lined sheet pan, seam-side down; cover with plastic wrap and set aside. Lay out the kadayif strands and cut into short sections, approximately five inches in length. Brush lightly with butter and wrap around the lower third of each coronet. Tie the vanilla bean strips around the kadayif to secure and trim off the excess ends of the vanilla bean. Bake in the oven until golden brown, about eight minutes. Remove fr om the heat and gently loosen the metal coronet molds while still warm. Once cooled, remove the metal cones.

To serve: Pipe the coronets one-third full with the walnut-caramel filling. Fill the remainder of the coronet with the chocolate Bavarois. Place a coronet on a dish. Drizzle chocolate sauce and spoon kumquat sauce around the coronet.

Sauternes

Chateau de Fargues

Bordeaux, France 1989

oached Pear Stuffed with Candied Orange Mascarpone (Serves 10)

ingredients


For the Pear William sorbet:
5 ounces granulated sugar
5 ounces water
2 pounds Bartlett pears, peeled, cored, and pureed
2 ounces Pear William brandy
Lemon juice to taste
For the poached pears:
1 1/2 quarts Pinot Noir
20 ounces water
1 tablespoon port
2 tablespoons brandy
1 1/2 pound granulated sugar
Zest of 3 lemons
Zest of 2 oranges
Juice of 2 lemons
3 cloves
3 sticks Saigon cinnamon *
3/4 teaspoon nutmeg powder
10 small Bartlett pears, peeled and cored from the bottom, top
intact
For the candied orange mascarpone filling:
9 ounces Galbani mascarpone cheese **
1 1/2 ounces confectioners' sugar
Zest of 2 lemons, grated
2 ounces candied orange peel, finely chopped
Lemon juice, to taste
For the toasted hazelnut cake:
1 ounce pastry flour, sifted
3 1/2 ounces toasted and chopped hazelnuts
1 1/2 ounces hazelnut flour, toasted
3 ounces confectioners' sugar
4 ounces egg whites
2 ounces granulated brown sugar
For the garnish:
Pear chips
Sugar decoration

* Available through The Spice House at [phone].

** Available through Dairyland The Chef's Warehouse at [phone].

directions

Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht

Alsace, France 1996

For the Pear William sorbet: In a saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil. Remove the syrup from the heat and set aside to cool. In food processor, puree the pears, gradually adding the syrup until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and mix with the Pear William brandy. Adjust the flavors with lemon juice. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions.

For the poached pears: In a large saucepan, combine all of the ingredients except for the pears and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and add the pears. Simmer until the pears are tender. Using a slotted spoon, gently remove the pears from the liquid and transfer to a sheet pan to cool. Strain the poaching liquid through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside to cool in a bowl over an ice bath. Return the pears to the poaching liquid and refrigerate.

For the candied orange mascarpone filling: Combine all of the ingredients together and mix to incorporate. Refrigerate until needed.

For the toasted hazelnut cake: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Prepare a silpat-lined sheet pan with ten 2 1/2- inch flan rings. In a bowl, combine the flour, hazelnuts, hazelnut flour, and confectioners' sugar, and set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer, whisk the egg whites and brown sugar until stiff peaks form. Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a rubber spatula, fold in the flour mixture. Fill the rings with the batter and bake for about ten minutes. Unmold the cakes and set aside to cool.

To serve: Trim off the bottom of the pear and fill from the bottom up with the candied orange mascarpone filling. Place a toasted hazelnut cake on a plate and set a stuffed pear on top. Place a scoop of Pear William sorbet next to the cake and garnish with a pear chip and sugar decoration.

Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal

Domaine Zine-Humbrecht

Alsace, France 1996

ickory Nut Souffle Glace Stuffed with Quince (Serves 8)

ingredients


For the poached quince:
3/4 cup white wine
3/4 cup water
1 ounce granulated sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
Zest of 1/2 orange
1/2 vanilla bcan, split and scraped
1 quince, peeled, cored, and diced
For the quince jelly:
1 pound quince, peeled cored, and diced
1 [1/2] cups water
1/2 box sure-Jell pectin powder
12 ounces granulated sugar
For the hickory nut cake:
2 ounces ground and toasted hickory nuts
2 ounces pastry flour
4 egg yolks
2 ounces granulated sugar
3 egg whites
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 ounce unsalted butter, melted
For the souffle glace:
1/2 cup Orange Blossom[R] honey
2 egg whites
2 cups heavy cream, whipped
6 ounces candied orange zest, chopped
2 ounces dried cranberries, chopped
Reserved chopped caramelized hickory nuts
For the caramelized hickozy nuts:
5 ounces coarsely chopped hickory nuts
8 hickory nuts, whole
2 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
2 teaspoons water
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter
For the caramel crisps:
3 ounces cake flour
9 ounces sugar
2 ounces orange juice
7 ounces unsalted butter, melted
For the clementine salad:
1/2 cup clementine juice
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped Sugar to taste
1/4 teaspoon arrowroot
6 clementines, peeled and segmented
For the garnish:
Sugar decoration
Orange zest, blanched

Note: Chef Hsu recommends using pecans if hickory nuts are unavailable.

directions

For the poached quince: In a saucepan, combine the wine, water, sugar, lemon and orange zest, vanilla bean, and quince; bring to a boil Reduce the heat and simmer until the quince is soft, about 20 minutes. Cool and chill overnight.

For the quince jelly: In a saucepan, bring the quince and water to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for ten minutes. Crush the quince and set aside for five minutes. Pour into a fine mesh sieve and drain to yield one and one-half cups of liquid. Transfer the liquid to a saucepan and stir in the pectin. Bring to a boil. Add the sugar and boil for one minute, stirring constantly. Transfer to a bowl and place in an ice bath to cool. Refrigerate for six hours.

For the hickory nut cake: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a nine-inch round cake pan. Combine the hickory nuts with the Hour. In the bowl of an electric mixer, whip the egg yolks and sugar to ribbon stage. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites and cream of tartar to stiff peaks. Combine the whipped egg yolk mixture with the butter. Gently fold the flour mixture into the whisked egg whites. Transfer the batter to the cake pan and bake for about twenty minutes. Cool on a wire rack. Unmold the cake and slice in half horizontally. Using a three-inch round cutter, cut out eight circles.

For the caramelized hickory nuts: Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Place the hickory nuts on a sheet pan and warm in the oven for five minutes. Remove from the heat and keep warm. In a saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil. When the temperature reaches 250 degrees, add the hickory nuts. Continue cooking, stirring constantly until the nuts are coated and the sugar is golden brown. Remove from the heat, add the butter, and mix to combine. Pour the mixture out onto a parchment-lined sheet pan to cool.

For the souffle glace: Prepare eight 3-inch molds. In a saucepan, bring the honey to a boil and cook until the temperature reaches 240 degrees and then let cool. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the egg whites to medium peaks. On medium speed, slowly add the honey and beat until well combined. By hand, fold in the whipped cream, candied orange, dried cranberries, and caramelized chopped hickory nuts. Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip. Pipe the mixture to fill the molds two-thirds full. Make a small indentation in the center and place two teaspoons of quince jelly in the middle. Cover the jelly with the remaining souffle mixture and top with a circle of hickory nut cake. Freeze until ready to serve.

For the caramel crisps: Prepare a silpat-lined sheet pan. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine the flour and sugar. Add the orange juice and butter. Mix until smooth and refrigerate for one hour. Using a palette knife, spread a thin layer of the mixture onto the silpat and create desired shapes. Bake until golden brown. Remove the crisps from the silpat and shape while still warm. Allow to harden and set aside.

For the clementine salad: In a saucepan, bring the clementine juice and vanilla bean to a boil. Season with sugar to taste. In a small bowl, whisk the arrowroot with one tablespoon of the juice mixture to form a slurry. Whisk the slurry into the juice mixture and simmer until thickened. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside to cool. Mix the clementines with the juice mixture to coat and keep chilled until ready to serve.

To serve: Unmold the souffle glace and cut in half. Place the two halves on a plate. Place a caramel crisp on top of the souffle glace and garnish with a caramelized hickory nut and a sugar decoration. Spoon the clementine salad around the souffle glace and top with poached quince and orange zest.

Vin Santo

Isole E Oleana

Tuscany, Italy 1994

abriel kreuther

Rabbit Galantine with Foie Gras (Serves 4)
ingredients


For the rabbit:
1 3-pound rabbit
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped
2 shallots, peeled and chopped
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig sage, stemmed
2 tablespoons white wine
For the stuffing:
2 cloves garlic, peeled
Reserved rabbit leg meat, finely ground
6 ounces fatty pork shoulder, finely ground
6 ounces fatback, finely ground
1 sprig sage, stemmed and minced
1 small sprig rosemary, stemmed and minced
2 eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
For the foie gras sausage:
Reserved rabbit liver, finely ground
6 ounces foie gras terrine
2 leaves Swiss chard, blanched and trimmed
Salt and pepper to taste
For the galantine:
1 pound caul fat, soaked, rinsed, and dried
Reserved rabbit
Reserved stuffing
Reserved foie gras stuffing
1 1/2 quarts chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste
For the herb salad:
Juice of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 bunch parsley, stemmed
1/4 bunch chervil, stemmed
4 ounces mesclun
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Micro chives *
Micro sage *
Micro oregano *

* Available through Blue Moon Acres at [phone].

Directions For the rabbit: On a cutting board, separate the hind legs from the rabbit. Debone and reserve six ounces of the leg meat for the stuffing. Remove the liver and reserve. Debone the saddle with the flaps and keep intact. Debone the remainder of the rabbit and transfer the meat to a shallow pan. In a small bowl, combine the garlic, shallots, thyme, sage, and white wine. Pour over the rabbit meat; cover and refrigerate overnight.

For the stuffing: Bring a small saucepan filled with salted water to a boil and blanch the garlic until softened. Transfer to a bowl and mash with a fork. Add the remaining ingredients; season and mix until smooth.

For the foie gras sausage: In a small bowl, add the rabbit liver to the foie gras terrine and mix to combine. On a flat work surface, lay out the Swiss chard leaves widthwise, with one leaf overlapping the other. Form the foie gras mixture into a sausage-like shape and place it along the lower portion of the Swiss chard leaves. Roll the leaves tightly around the foie gras mixture. Roll the sausage tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for thirty minutes.

For the galantine: Lay a large piece of caul fat on a flat work surface. Place the rabbit on top of the caul fat, opening up the saddle flaps. Place half of the reserved stuffing on top and smooth out over the loin. Place the foie gras sausage on top of the stuffing. Cover with the remaining stuffing. Bring up both sides of the flaps toward the center to cover the stuffing. Roll the rabbit in the caul fat four times and wrap in plastic wrap. Tie the ends with butcher's twine and use pieces of the twine to secure the rabbit at even intervals in order to maintain the shape of a cylinder. Wrap in aluminum foil and refrigerate for six hours. Prepare a sheet pan with a wire rack insert. In a large saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at 170 degrees. Place the galantine in the simmering stock and cook for sixty minutes. Cool at room temperature on the wire rack. Refrigerate for 1 1/2-2 days.

For the herb salad: In a bowl, mix the lemon juice and olive oil. Season and add the remaining ingredients; toss to coat.

To serve: Trim off the ends of the galantine and cut into one-half inch slices. Place two slices on a plate. Arrange a small portion of the herb salad next to the galantine. Garnish with the micro chives, sage, and oregano.

Pouilly Fume Pur Sang

Didier Dagueneau

Loire, France 2001

Smoked Salmon and Lobster Timbale

(Serves 6)

ngredients
For the timbale:


6 large slices smoked salmon
6 smoked sea scallops, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 Maine lobster, l 1/4 pounds, boiled, shelled, meat cut into
1/2-inch dice
2 avocados, cut into 1/2-inch dice
Juice of 1 lemon
1 ounce osetra caviar
Salt and pepper to taste
For the sauce:
1 bunch chives, chopped
4 tablespoons cold water
2 tablespoons sour cream
Tabasco[R] sauce, to taste
Salt and pepper, to taste
For the salad:
Juice of 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces mesclun
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Osetra caviar
Micro chive sprouts *

* Available through Blue Moon Acres at [phone].

Directions

Meursault Les Tesson

Domaine Guy Roulot

Burgundy, France 2001

For the timbale: Line six timbale molds with plastic wrap with the edges draping over the sides. Place a slice of smoked salmon in the bottom of each timbale mold with the edges draping over the sides. In a bowl, combine the scallops, lobster, and avocado and season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Fill the timbale molds one-third full with the seafood and avocado mixture and top with a thin layer of caviar. Place another layer of the mixture into the timbale molds and top with more caviar. Add another layer of the mixture to fill the timbale molds to the top. Fold the salmon and plastic wrap edges over the top of the mixture for each timbale mold. Press down lightly with the bottom of another timbale mold to compress the mixture in each mold. Refrigerate for four hours.

For the sauce: In a blender, puree the chives and water until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. Add the sour cream and season with salt, pepper, and Tabasco[R] sauce. Whisk until the sauce has the consistency of heavy cream. Add more water if sauce is too thick. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

For the salad: In a bowl, whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil. Toss with the mesclun to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Invert the timbale onto a plate. Cut a small wedge of the timbale and place to the side of the timbale. Arrange a small portion of salad next to the timbale and spoon the sauce around the timbale and wedge. Garnish with osetra caviar and micro chive sprouts.

Meursault Les Tesson

Domaine Guy Roulot

Burgundy, France 2001

tuffed Quail with Wild Mushroom Napoleon (Serves 4)
ingredients
For the stuffing:


2 tablespoons unsalted butter
16 chestnuts, peeled
1 cup chicken stock
4 ounces white bread, diced
1 ounce heavy cream
2 shallots, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons dried cranberries
1 egg, beaten
12 slices prosciutto
For the mushroom Napoleon:
4 large turnips
2 cups chicken stock
1 sprig thyme
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, chopped
1 pound wild mushrooms, chopped
1/4 bunch chives, minced
Salt and pepper to taste
For the quail:
6 quail, boneless
1 teaspoon star anise powder
Reserved stuffing
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup white wine
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish.
Chanterelles
Chervil
Cracked black pepper

directions

For the stuffing: In a saute pan, melt one tablespoon of the butter and add the Syrah Lewis Cellars Napa, California 2000 chestnuts to coat. Add the chicken stock and simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer the chicken stock to reduce to a glaze. Basting the chestnuts with the reduced stock, adjust the heat as necessary. Season and remove from the heat. Set aside 12 whole chestnuts and chop the remaining. Place the bread in a bowl and set aside. In a saucepan, bring the cream to a boil and pour over the bread. In a saute pan, melt the remaining butter and add the shallots. Saute until translucent and remove from the heat. Mix the shallots with the bread. Add the cranberries, chopped chestnuts, and egg; season and mix to combine. Cover each whole chestnut with bread stuffing and wrap with a slice of prosciutto and set aside.

For the mushroom Napoleon: Prepare four 2-inch ring molds. Peel and cut twenty 1/8-inch thick turnip slices. Using a two-inch round cutter, trim the turnip slices and set aside. In a saucepan, bring the chicken stock and thyme to a boil. Season and add the turnip slices. Reduce the heat and simmer until tender. Remove from the heat and carefully remove the turnip slices. Discard the liquid. In a saute pan, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots and saute until translucent. Add the mushrooms; saute and season. Add the chives and remove from the heat. Place a turnip slice in the bottom of the ring molds. Place one tablespoon of mushroom mixture on top of each turnip and smooth the surface to flatten. Place another turnip slice on top of the mushroom mixture and repeat to make five layers, finishing with a turnip slice. Remove the ring and set aside, keeping warm.

For the quail: Preheat the oven to 475 degrees. Season the quails with salt, pepper, and star anise powder. Fill each cavity with two bundles of prosciutto-wrapped stuffing. In a saute pan, heat the oil. Add the quails and brown on all sides. Roast in the oven until the desired doneness, about 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and remove the quail from the pan. Set aside, keeping warm. Place the pan on high heat and deglaze with the wine, scraping off any browned bits. Simmer and season. Whisk in the butter in two additions. Adjust seasoning and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Cut two quail in half lengthwise. Place one and one-half quails on each plate. Set a mushroom Napoleon next to the quail topped with a chanterelle, chervil, and cracked black pepper. Drizzle sauce around the dish.

enison and Pheasant Pate (Serves 4)
ingredients


For the pheasant mousseline:
4 pheasant legs, skinned and deboned
1 egg white
3 ounces heavy cream
1 ounce unsalted butter
5 ounces white mushrooms, diced
1 shallot, peeled and minced
3 ounces diced black trumpet mushrooms
1/4 bunch chervil, stemmed and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
For the pate:
1 1/2 pounds puff pastry
1 pound venison loin, cut into 12 slices and seasoned
2 pheasant breasts, skinned, deboned,
cut into 4 slices each, and seasoned
4 ounces foie gras, cut into 12 slices and seasoned
12 large leaves Savoy cabbage, blanched in salted water and dried
Reserved pheasant mousseline
1 1/2 ounces sliced black truffles
1 egg yolk beaten with 1 tablespoon heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Rosemary sprigs
Thyme sprigs
Bay leaves

directions

For the pheasant mousseline: Place the pheasant legs in the bowl of a food processor and puree until fine. Add the egg white and process for 10 seconds. While the machine is running, slowly add the cream. Remove the mixture and, using a rubber scraper, push through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside in the refrigerator. In a saute pan, melt half of the butter. Add the white mushrooms and half of the shallots; saute until the shallots are translucent. Season and mix in half of the chervil. Remove from the heat; set aside to cool and reserve in the refrigerator. Repeat the process with the black trumpet mushrooms, adding the remaining shallots and chervil. Season to taste; set aside to cool and reserve in the refrigerator. In a mixing bowl, combine the pheasant and mushroom mixtures and place in the refrigerator.

For the pate: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Prepare two parchment-lined sheet pans and place six 4 1/2 x 2-inch ring molds on one of the sheet pans. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the puff pastry to 1/8 -inch thick. Using a 5-inch round cutter, cut out six circles of dough; place on a parchment-lined sheet pan and refrigerate. Using an 8-inch cutter, cut out six circles. Line the ring molds with the dough circles. Bake in the oven for twelve minutes and let cool. Line each mold with two large cabbage leaves. Place two slices of pheasant in the bottom of the mold and top with a layer of pheasant mousseline, two slices of foie gras, truffle slices, and two slices of venison. Wrap the cabbage leaves and overlapping dough edges over the top of the filling and cover with a circle of puff pastry. Pinch the edges to seal. Using the remaining puff pastry dough, make decorative shapes to garnish the top of the puff pastry. Refrigerate for one hour. Brush the top and sides with the egg wash. Bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Set aside for ten minutes and keep warm.

To serve: Slice two of the pates in half. Place one and one-half pates on a plate and garnish with sprigs of rosemary and thyme and a bay leaf.

Pinat Gris Clos Windsbuhl

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht

Alsore, France 2000

angoustine and Scallop Stuffed Cabbage
(Serves 6)
ingredients


For the stuffed cabbage:
8 langoustines, shelled and
deveined, each cut into 3 pieces
4 large sea scallops, finely
chopped
1/4-inch piece ginger, peeled
and minced
1 shallot, peeled and minced
7 large leaves Savoy cabbage
Salt, pepper, and cayenne
pepper to taste
For the sauce:
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 shallots, peeled and minced
2 red bell peppers, seeded
and finely diced
1 cup fish stock
Juice of 1 lemon
3 ounces heavy cream, whipped
1/2 bunch chives, minced
1 1/2 ounces osetra caviar
Salt and pepper to taste

directions

For the stuffed cabbage: Prepare a large pot fitted with a steamer rack insert. Fill one-third of the pot with water and bring to a simmer. In a bowl, combine the langoustines, scallops, ginger; and shallots. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil; blanch the cabbage leaves and shock in the ice water. Dry the leaves on paper towels and trim off the center veins. Lay the cabbage leaves on a flat work surface. Place two tablespoons of the shellfish stuffing in the center of a cabbage leaf. Fold the edges. of the leaf over to enclose the stuffing. Wrap the stuffed cabbage in a cotton towel and squeeze to form a round shape. Repeat to make seven stuffed cabbages. Place the stuffed cabbages in the pot and steam for 10-12 minutes.

For the sauce: In a saucepan, melt one tablespoon of the butter. Add the shallots and saute until translucent. Add the red bell pepper and saute. Add the fish stock and reduce by half. Finish the sauce with the remaining butter. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Stir in the whipped cream, chives, and caviar and keep warm.

To serve: Cut one of the stuffed cabbages into six wedges. Place a stuffed cabbage on a plate. Spoon a portion of the sauce over the whole stuffed cabbage and set a wedge of stuffed cabbage next to it.

Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben

Nigl

Kremstal, Austria 2001

arah Stegner

Glassage of Maine Lobster with Stuffed Fennel (Serves 4)


Ingredients

For the shellfish sauce:
2 1 1/2-pounds Maine lobsters, claws, knuckles, and tails
  removed, bodies chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 prawns, deveined, shells and meat reserved separately
1 cup brandy
4 bulbs baby fennel, trimmings chopped and bulbs reserved
1 small carrot, peeled and chopped
1 small leek, white part only, trimmed and chopped
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
1 small tomato, chopped
2 cups white wine
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
1 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt, white pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste

For the fennel stuffing:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
4 shallots, peeled and minced
Reserved shellfish sauce
2 ounces sea scallops
Reserved prawns
Reserved lobster knuckle meat
1 egg yolk
3/4 cup heavy cream
Reserved baby fennel bulbs, blanched
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the Hollandaise sauce:
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons water
5 ounces clarified butter
Juice of 1/4 lemon
Salt to taste

For the glassage:
Reserved Hollandaise sauce
Reserved shellfish sauce
2 tablespoons heavy cream, whipped
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the lobster:
2 cups clarified butter
Reserved lobster tails and claws

For the garnish:
Tarragon sprigs
Micro chives

directions

For the shellfish sauce: Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and prepare an ice bath. Simmer the lobster claws, knuckles, and tails for six minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to the ice bath. Remove and discard the shells. In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil. Add the lobster bodies and prawn shells; season and saute until browned. Deglaze with the brandy and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Add the fennel trimmings, carrot, leek, and onion and saute until tender. Add the tomato and saute for five minutes. Add the white wine, tomato paste, thyme, and bay leaves. Simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Add the chicken stock and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and set aside to cool. Reserve one cup of the shellfish sauce for the fennel stuffing. Pour the remaining shellfish sauce into a saucepan and add the cream. Simmer and reduce until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about fifteen minutes. Season and keep warm.

For the fennel stuffing: In a saute pan, heat one tablespoon of the butter. Add the shallots and saute until translucent. Add the reserved shellfish sauce and simmer until the sauce thickens. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Prepare an ice bath. In a grinder fitted with a medium-coarse die, grind the scallops, prawns, and lobster knuckle meat. Transfer to a food processor and pulse until the mixture is smooth, Add the egg yolk and season with white pepper. While the machine is running, slowly add the cream. Continue to mix until just combined. Transfer the stuffing to a large bowl and set aside in an ice bath. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the shallot mixture and season. Transfer the filling to a pastry bag fitted with a medium round tip and keep chilled. Using a small, sharp knife, hollow out the centers of the fennel and fill with the stuffing. Wrap the stuffed fennel bulbs individually in plastic wrap; twist and tie the ends. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil; reduce the heat until and poach the fennel the stuffing is cooked. Trim the ends of the fennel, cutting on the bias, and brush with the remaining butter. Keep warm.

For the hollandaise sauce: Fill a medium saucepan halfway with water and bring to a simmer. In a stainless steel bowl, whisk the egg yolks and place over the hot water. Continue to whisk until the yolks thicken. Gradually whisk in the warm clarified butter, whisking constantly. Add the lemon juice; season and whisk to the consistency of heavy cream. Keep warm.

For the glassage: In a bowl, using a rubber spatula, mix the shellfish and Hollandaise sauce together. Fold in the whipped cream and season.

For the lobster: In a saucepan, bring the butter to a simmer. Add the lobster tails and claws and cook until warmed. Remove from the heat; transfer to a paper-towel lined sheet pan to drain and keep warm.

To serve: Preheat the broiler. Place a half lobster tail and claw on each side of the plate. Spoon the glassage over the lobster and gratinee until the top is lightly browned. Remove from the heat and place a sliced fennel bulb in the center of the dish. Garnish with tarragon sprigs and micro chives.

Riesling Spulleso

Donnholf

Nahe, Germany 1999

tuffed Mushrooms with Marinated Beets
(Serves 4) ingredients


For the candied red onions:
1 small red onion, peeled and diced
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup water
1/2 cup granulated sugar
For the marinated beets:
1/2 pound assorted baby beets, boiled, peeled, and quartered
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon whole grain mustard
Zest of 1/2 orange
2 sprigs thyme
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Reserved candied red onions
1/4 bunch chives, minced
Salt and pepper to taste
For the stuffed mushrooms:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, peeled and diced
1/2 cup Niman Ranch bacon *, julienned, cooked, and fat rendered
4 tomatoes, oven roasted and diced
1/4 bunch chives, minced
1/4 cup potato puree
1/4 cup mascarpone cheese
8 large white mushroom caps
4 ounces all-purpose flour
4 ounces dried morel mushroom powder
3 eggs
3 cups panko breadcrumbs
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Chervil

Note: Chef Stegner grinds dried more mushrooms to make morel mushroom
powder.

* Available through Niman Ranch at [phone].

directions

For the candied red onions: In a saucepan, combine all of the ingredients and simmer slowly. Simmer and reduce to a syrup-like consistency.

For the marinated beets: In a bowl, combine the beets, honey, vinegar, mustard, orange zest, and thyme. Cover and marinate for three hours. Remove the thyme and transfer the mixture to a saucepan. Simmer the mixture until the liquid has a syrup-like consistency. Add the butter, the candied red onions, and the chives. Adjust the seasonings and set aside to cool.

For the stuffed mushrooms: In a saute pan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and saute until translucent. Add the bacon, roasted tomatoes, and chives. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool. Add the potato puree and mascarpone and season to taste. Stuff the mushroom caps with the mixture and set aside. Preheat a deep fryer to 375 degrees. Prepare three separate bowls for breading the stuffed mushrooms: in the first bowl, sift together the flour and mushroom powder; in the second bowl, beat the eggs; and in the third bowl, add the panko. Coat the mushroom caps with the flour mixture; dip into the beaten eggs and bread with the panko. Repeat the breading process with the remaining mushroom caps. Deep-fry the mushroom caps until golden brown. Drain on a paper towel-lined sheet pan.

To serve: Cut the, mushroom caps in half. Place three mushroom cap halves on a plate and spoon the marinated beets on the side. Garnish with chervil.

Syrah

Swanson

Napa, California 1997

uinea Hen Stuffed with Duck Liver and Truffles
(Serves 4)

ingredients


For the sauce:
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 1 1/2-pound guinea hens, split, deboned, bones chopped, and
 breasts reserved
6 shallots, peeled and diced
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
1 small carrot, peeled and chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
1 cup white wine
4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1/2 bunch thyme
2 bay leaves
1 1/2 quarts chicken stock
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 bunch chives, minced
Salt and pepper to taste
For the polenta:
4 cups chicken stock
7 ounces fine ground polenta
2 ounces unsalted butter
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1/4 cup Pleasant Ridge cheese, grated *
Salt and pepper to taste
For the guinea hen:
Reserved guinea hen breasts
8 ounces duck liver, sliced
1 small black truffle, sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish.
Black truffle slices
Fried sage

* Pleasant Ridge Cheese is a farmstead-style cheese. It is similar in
flavor to gruyere and is available through Uplands Cheese Company at
[phone].

directions

For the sauce: In a saute pan, heat two tablespoons olive oil. Add the bones; season and saute until brown. Add two-thirds of the shallots and the onion, carrot, and celery. Saute until browned. Deglaze with the wine and add the garlic, thyme, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until almost dry. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the liquid is reduced to 1 1/2 cups. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. In a saucepan, heat the remaining oil. Add the remaining shallots and saute until translucent. Add the reserved liquid and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Add the butter and chives and whisk to combine. Season and keep warm.

For the polenta: In a saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Gradually add the polenta, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove from the heat; add the butter and the Parmesan and Pleasant Ridge cheeses. Mix to combine; season and keep warm.

For the guinea hens: Using a paring knife, make a small opening under the skins of the guinea hen breasts to separate the skin from the meat. Season the duck liver and place the liver slices and truffle slices between the skin and the meat of the breasts. In a saute pan, heat the olive oil. Sear the guinea hens, skin-side down. Cook until desired doneness, turning over one time. Keep warm.

To serve: Spoon the polenta in the center of the plate. Slice the guinea hen and place on top of the polenta. Spoon a portion of sauce on the plate. Garnish with sliced truffles and fried sage.

Volnay ler Cru, Les Cailleret Clos des 60 Ouvrees

Domaine de la Pousse D'Or

Burgundy, France 1993

oasted stuffed peppers with spinach salad (Serves 4)

ingredients


For the stuffed peppers:
8 ounces Fresh Sweet Grass Dairy goat cheese *
4 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
4 tablespoons dried currants
4 sweet ornamental peppers, stemmed and seeded *
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Salt and white pepper

For the spinach salad:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup Niman Ranch bacon **, julienned
1/2 shallot, peeled and minced
4 tablespoons red currant jam
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 pound baby spinach
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
White currants *

* Available through Fresh Sweet Grass Dairy at [phone].

** Available through Niman Ranch at [phone].

directions

For the stuffed peppers: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine the goat cheese, pine nuts, and currants and mix until smooth. Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a medium, plain tip. Pipe the goat cheese stuffing into the peppers and set aside. In a saute pan, heat the olive oil and add the shallots. Saute the shallots until tender. Add the butter and season. Add the stuffed peppers to the pan and brown on all sides. Transfer to a sheet pan and roast in the oven until the stuffing is hot. Remove from the oven and set aside, keeping warm.

For the spinach salad: In a saute pan, heat the olive oil. Add the bacon and render until crisp. Add the shallots and saute until tender. Remove from the heat and set aside. Add the jam, vinegar, and mustard to the pan and stir to mix. Adjust seasoning and set aside, keeping warm. Toss together with the spinach before serving.

To serve: Slice a stuffed pepper in half on the bias and lay on a plate. Arrange spinach salad next to the pepper. Drizzle remaining vinaigrette on the plate and garnish the salad with the white currants.

Solaia

Marchesi Anlinori

Tuscany, Italy 1997