Budget cookery for frugal gourmets.

Ethnic cookbooks provide recipes for peasant dining with elegance

I've been reading COUNTRYSIDE for about two years, so I guess that makes me a newcomer still. But I thought that I might "chime in" on a couple of subjects, even though I live in the city (my apartment is the size of about three horse stalls).

One of the recurring questions that I have seen is the cost of eating...something with which I am familiar. There have been times (too many) when the distance to the next paycheck was far greater than the amount of money for food would reach. As a consequence, I was forced to improvise with what was on hand and use the cash for perishables. Fortunately, I like rice and beans as fillers (read "stretchers").

Stretch a chicken

Cut a chicken into major pieces and cover it with water in a "one-chicken pot" (I guess that's about four quarts). Season and simmer the bird in seasoned water as if you are making chicken soup. When it's "fallin' off the bone tender" remove it and save the stock. After it's cool enough to handle, cut the meat from the bones and measure the stock left. Bring the chicken stock to a boil and add 1/4 cup of rice for each 1/2 cup liquid, stirring regularly. When the rice is nearly done, return the meat to the pot and add some cut-up celery, sliced mushrooms, or whatever you wish (or have on hand). This makes a filling meal and lasts me a week to 10 days: I like to add soy sauce for a little zing and salt. Yes, I get tired of having the same thing every night, but it beats going hungry.

Impress your guests

If you want to impress people with your culinary talents on a low budget, try this one. Buy a 5-pound boneless ham (shrink-wrapped with water added). This currently costs about $9 here, unless I get it on sale. Put it on a rack in a suitable sized covered pot and cover it with one bottle of Heinz 57 and an equal amount of honey. You might want to add just a little water (maybe 1/2 cup), Bake at about 250 degrees for 2 to 2 1/2 hours. Pour the mix over the top when served. This ham will cut with a fork and should get rave reviews. Unfortunately, it will last me about two weeks or so as I am the only one eating it.

Serrated knives

I read with interest Art Horn's article on knives and got lost a couple of times. He has probably forgotten more about steel than I will ever know. Nonetheless, I should like to part company with him in one area (gently).

I have a set of nice (medium pricey) kitchen knives which are stainless steel and all of them are serrated. Having worked in a number of restaurants over the last 15 years, I've learned a number of things from the pros. The number one cause of dull knives is not use...it's abuse. My knives are never washed with any other utensil (I don't have a dishwasher other than my hands). When I use a knife, it is held under running water, a little dish soap squirted on the blade, rinsed, dried, and put back in the wooden block. This has kept these knives sharp for eight years. Yes, they will be impossible to sharpen as serrated knives, but for essentially less than one dollar a month, what more could you want? When they dull, I can resharpen them as non-serrated knives.

I'm glad that he mentioned the Kabar USMC knife. I've had one for more than 20 years and would hate to go camping without it. Using ceramic sharpening stones, mine has a very sharp edge and can be used for cutting tinder or skinning game. The tang goes through the handle and I've used it to tighten fencing staples on occasion.

Ethnic cookbooks

One thing that I have not seen in COUNTRYSIDE is the suggestion of cookbooks (they make great gifts). If you raise sheep (or know someone who does) you might look forward to yet another dinner of lamb chops with a little dread (I can't imagine this considering the price of lamb in the stores). The Irish have been living on sheep and potatoes for several hundred years and have developed a variety of tasty meals around them.

Lamb goes well with eggplant; if you raise only one of these, find someone who has the other. These two foods came together centuries ago in the Middle East. A cookbook featuring Greek, Arabic, or Iranian recipes will keep your tastebuds entertained for a very long time.

Some people will think that these dishes are going to be "weird" without giving them a fair trial. This is a result of movies, not reality.

Surprise your family with Lamb with Green String Beans, or maybe a Baked Lamb, Chick-Pea and Bean Casserole. Or Braised Chicken in Tomato and Cinnamon Sauce. Even if you can't pronounce "Kizarmis Patlican," the thought of Fried Eggplant with Green Peppers and Tomato Sauce should get your attention. I grew up with these foods and can testify that the taste of these dishes is in no way offensive--although getting used to the amounts of dill or lemon juice may take a bit. If you prefer raising goats to sheep and don't mind eating them, you might consult a Mexican cookbook.