British and French history merge in a fascinating town; The Great Escape.

HISTORY is all around in northern France.

We discovered this while having breakfast in the Chatellerie de Schoebeque in Cassel when three British soldiers marched in, taking a break from a cycle ride to raise cash for injured service personnel.

The trio, supporting the excellent Help for Heroes project, treated us to a short, good-natured lecture on the importance of the area in the annals of warfare.

It turns out Marshal Foch, Allied Supreme Commander in World War I, used our hotel - then a private building with spectacular views over Flanders Fields - as a headquarters during the conflict.

Later, much of this lovely little town 25 miles from Calais was destroyed by bombardments during the English army retreat to Dunkerque in WWll.

Brave Tommies and their Allies fought a desperate rearguard against German divisions to enable troops to reach the French coast and eventual evacuation to Britain.

Their courage is marked still in the beautifully-maintained cemetery at the bottom end of town on the road out to Lille.

Rows of headstones designate the final resting places of those who died in defence of the town. It is comforting to observe their graves are kept respectfully neat and cared for.

Nor was there any shortage of history at our brilliantly eccentric hotel.

The first owner of the building which eventually became the Chatellerie de Schoebeque was guillotined in Paris, accused during the French Revolution of being an aristocrat.

Just five years ago the building was acquired by new owners and took on its distinctive new appearance.

It is weird - but in the nicest way! For a start, each room or suite has a theme.

There is one dedicated to comedians, another to romance, yet another - the Moulin Rouge - to Paris in its hey-day, with individual decor to match the theme.

Our room L'Aziza takes the Arab world for its inspiration - which is why it contained elaborate tiling and fretwork and boasted a hookah and life-size baby camel among the ornaments!

Its gardens spill down to magnificent views over the surrounding countryside and, all in all, it is just about the nicest, friendliest hotel I have ever stayed in. Cassel itself is pretty tidy too. The Grande Place is ringed with good cafes and restaurants but the best bar in town is Au Lion Noir, on the same road as the Schoebeque.

It is simple but friendly with all the regulars, and the owner too, insisting on shaking hands and personally introducing themselves.

Simply superb.

This is an area, the Nord Pas de Calais, which many other Brits usually sweep through on the way from ferry port to destination. Big mistake!

It is a great place, within easy reach of the coast for a short break, and hugely interesting and entertaining.

Our first stop had been at the Chateau Tilques, just a 24-mile hop from Calais, but a world away from the port's hustle and bustle.

The majestic building lords it over ten acres of magnificent grounds which also house a lake, tennis courts and a free-standing gourmet restaurant Le Vert Mesnil, famous for its foie gras and gingerbread biscuits.

A round of a kir (white wine and creme de cassis) and a half of local beer in the bar sets you back just over ten euros (about pounds 9).

Steep, you may think, but then the euro is painfully strong at the moment and you ARE in the most stylish of surroundings with fine furnishings and original art all around.

Both hotels are among a string of others in this part of France which have banded together under the banner of Meet Your hosts.

The aim is to offer friendly, stylish accommodation and food in a very French environment within a short drive of the coast.

We caught the ferry from Dover to Calais - still the best way to cross the Channel, in my view - but take a tip and book yourself into the club lounge.

For pounds 14 each (pounds 12 if you book in advance) you get a glass of champagne, plate of sweeties, coffee or tea, the day's papers and as much peace as you can handle on what can sometimes be a busy crossing.

If you plan to stop over on the coast before getting the ferry, here's another tip.

Drop off at a little place called Sandgate, a 20-minute drive from dreary Dover, and seek out a cracking pub called The Ship Inn.

A room with a sea view (the waves come crashing in less than 50 yards away) was just pounds 65 for B and B.

The bar boasts a range of great real ales and a sign asks customers to switch off their mobile phones so drinkers can enjoy their pint in peace.

How's that for a top-class hostelry! Stuart the manager - and, incidentally, the town's deputy mayor - has plans to develop his place so get in now while you can.

And don't forget, you heard it here first.

CAPTION(S):

ECCENTRIC HOTEL...Chatellerie de Schoebeque with one of it's themed bedrooms (inset).