Bridge bason.

"I pretty much started working in diners while still in high school - - it was easy money at the time, and I enjoyed the atmosphere of being around the kitchen. It also piqued my interest in cooking, so I eventually ended up working in a French restaurant in New Jersey at the Middleville Inn. While there, I attended Peter Kump's New York Cooking School for pastry. But pastry really wasn't my thing. I just wasn't into the exactness of measuring every ingredient. And when things didn't turn out the way they should have because of an incorrect measurement on my part- well, that whole process just isn't me."

Armed with well-earned knowledge and a realization that her true passion lay in the business of "hot food," Chef Batson moved on to The Blue Room in Boston and worked with Chris Schlessinger: "He was definitely one of my biggest early influences - - I was there for about four years. Chris taught me a lot about managing a kitchen, which is so important. I then worked at Hamersley's Bistro for about a year before coming to Hawthorne Lane."

Chef Batson's philosophy about her profession comes from the heart. She realizes that her personal recipe for success is a blend of talent, experience, and just plain old-fashioned hard work: "This industry is energizing. I can't necessarily pinpoint what it is that drives me to do what I do day in and day out - - cooking becomes a type of devotion. The change of seasons helps keep me passionate about what I do, too. You can't beat springtime. The end of winter can be a bit frustrating. Just when you think it's never going to end, spring starts to happen and before you know it, all the fruit and vegetables come out and you have twice the amount of food to work with -- it's rejuvenating."

kerrv heffernan

Raised in Connecticut, Kerry Heffernan started working in restaurants at age fourteen, defying child labor laws early in his career. His first true foray into a kitchen of prominence was at age fifteen: "The first relevant experience that I had was at Perigord Park in New York, where I worked with David Bouley in 1979. in those days, there were only a handful of celebrity-type chefs such as Bocuse and Verge. American chefs such as Paul Prudhomme and Wolfgang Puck were just starting to gain a bit of notoriety. But their fame was nothing like that of today. They weren't considered superstar celebrities and didn't have national promotion machines behind them. That's really changed today. There are so many chefs that are good and getting a lot of attention - - they're in the forefront of the media. It's more prevalent to see a roster of talented celebrity chefs rather than a few individuals here and there. I think this celebrity status requires chefs to have many different skill sets. It requires them to be bette r at what they do. Of course, anything that takes them away from what they do to some degree will have an effect on their food. It would be easy for a chef's vision to be compromised. But at the same time, if it's done well, the chef will have trained others to convey his or her personal vision, which can be interpreted successfully by those who are recreating his or her dishes. Some chefs do things that are of such a delicate and precise nature that their failure rate is high even if they're in the kitchen the whole time. But the success rate, when it all works, can be through the roof. I guess everyone has his or her own agenda."

Working with chefs such as Bouley and Alfred Portale has positively influenced Chef Heffernan over the years. Garnering rave reviews at One Fifth and the Westbury Hotel's renowned Polo restaurant only added to Heffernan's stellar cooking resume and easily landed him the position of Executive Chef at Eleven Madison Park. His cuisine portrays his sense of American ingenuity, while still firmly based on his French training: "I think you learn what works fundamentally and then, hopefully, you honor those traditions no matter what the variation you might bring to the dish. You find that chefs without this kind of training or classical roots are experimenting across the board. I'm not saying that wasabi sorbet with olive oil is all that bad, just different. It's not something I find myself being drawn to."

In his present position, Chef Heffernan has the chance to share his finely honed palate with the masses, and his future holds even more promise: "I'm hoping my future in food will remain just as exciting and fun as it is today. It's easy to become complacent or too comfortable in this business. Your regular customers are looking for that comfort in your food and expect a certain confidence that you'll deliver this. It's important to prove to them and yourself that the dishes you're providing, however simple or complex, do require some thought as well as creativity. It's critical to keep things interesting, no matter what."

Garlic-Cured Pork Loin with Ratatouille-Stuffed Tomatoes

(Serves 6)

bridget balson

ingredents


For the cured pork loin:
1 quart warm water
1 cup granulated sugar
2 onions, peeled and diced
6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
10 sprigs thyme
10 sprigs oregano
2 tablespoons salt
4 tablespoons black peppercorns
2 tablespoons chili flakes
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
4 bay leaves
1 12-rib pork loin, bone in, frenched
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the ratatouille-stuffed tomatoes:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium on ion, peeled and diced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 large zucchini, diced
1/2 small eggplant, diced
2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
1 large zucchini, diced and tossed in oil
1/2 small eggplant, diced and tossed in oil
1 red pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced
2 sprigs oregano, stemmed and chopped
1/8 bunch parsley, stemmed and chopped
5 tablespoons grated Par cheese
Sherry vinegar to taste
12 small tomatoes, hollowed out, tops removed and reserved
2 tablespoons breadcrumbs
Salt and pepper to taste

For the sauce:
1 small bay leaf
1 1/2 leeks, white parts only, chopped
2 small shallots, peeled and chopped
3 small tomatoes, chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup white wine
1 cup sherry
1 1/2 cups demi-glace
1 sprig oregano
1 sprig parsley
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Baby zucchini, blanched and sliced
Pattypan squash, blanched and sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
Chopped parsley
Chopped oregano
Reserved small tomato tops
Shoestring potatoes
Baby arugula

directions

For the cured pork loin: In a large bowl, combine the water, sugar, onions, garlic, thyme, oregano, salt, peppercorns, chili flakes, cumin, and bay leaves and mix to combine. Add the pork loin and refrigerate for two clays.

For the pork: Preheat the oven to 490 degrees. Remove the pork from the cure and pat dry with paper towels. In a saute pan, heat the olive oil. Season the pork with salt and pepper. Sear the pork loin until golden brown on all sides. Place in the oven and roast to an internal temperature of 145 degrees. Remove from the oven and set aside, keeping warm.

For the ratatouille-stuffed tomatoes: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a saute pan, heat the oil. Add the onion and saute until translucent. Add the garlic and saute for one minute. Add the zucchini and eggplant and saute until soft. Add the tomatoes and saute until dry, about 15 minutes. Add the pepper, oregano, parsley, three tablespoons of Parmesan cheese, and the sherry vinegar. Season and remove from the heat. Place the hollowed out small tomatoes on a parchment-lined sheet pan and fill with the ratatouille. In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs and remaining Parmesan cheese and mix to combine. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture on top of the tomatoes. Place in the oven and roast until heated through, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

For the sauce: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a roasting pan, combine the bay leaf, leeks, shallots, tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil and toss to coat. Place in the oven to roast until browned. Remove from the oven and transfer to a saucepan over medium heat. Add the white wine and sherry; bring to a boil and reduce the heat. Simmer until reduced by half. Add the demi-glace, oregano, and parsley and simmer until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Add the butter; whisk to combine and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: In a bowl, combine the zucchini and pattypan squash. Add the oil, parsley, and oregano and toss to combine. Slice the pork loin into 12 chops. Place two pork chops in the center of a plate. Place two ratatouille-stuffed tomatoes next to the pork chops and cover with the reserved tomato tops. Spoon portions of sauce and squash onto the plate. Garnish with the shoestring potatoes and baby arugula.

Pinel Noir "Thomas Road"

Iron Horse Vineyards

Sanoma, California 2000

Bleu Cheese Stuffed Double-Cut Pork Chops with Radicchio di Treviso

(Serves 6)

Bridget Batson

ingredients

For the stuffed pork chops:
8 ounces bleu cheese
2 cups small diced and toasted sourdough croutons
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and diced
2 small shallots, peeled, minced, and sauteed
2 small ribs celery, peeled, diced, and sauteed
6 sprigs thyme, stemmed and chopped
6 double cut pork chops, frenched
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the butter beans:
1 cup dried butter beans
2 cups water
1 quart chicken stock
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the stuffed radicchio di Treviso:
1 1/2 cups apple balsamic vinegar
2 Granny Smith apples, cored and sliced into 1/8-inch wedges
3 heads radicchio di Treviso, washed and quartered
24 slices bacon, lightly grilled

For the garnish:
Celery leaves
Extra virgin olive oil
Apple balsamic vinegar
Diced red and green apples, skin on
Thinly sliced celery

* Apple balsamic vinegar is available through Bates & Schmitt
at 707-895-2461.

Note: The leaves of radicchio di Treviso are narrow and pointed and
form tighter, more tapered heads.

directions

For the stuffed pork chops: Prepare a hot grill. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a bowl, combine the bleu cheese, croutons, apple, shallots, celery, and thyme. Mix to combine and season. Cut a pouch in the center of each pork chop and fill with the stuffing. Season the pork chops; brush with oil and place on the grill to mark on both sides. Transfer to a wire rack-lined sheet pan and place in the oven until the chops reach an internal temperature of 145 degrees. Remove from the oven and set aside, keeping warm.

For the butter beans: In a bowl, combine the butter beans and water. Set aside to soak for one hour. Strain through a fine mesh sieve; discard the water and place the beans in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the chicken stock, thyme, and bay leaf. Simmer until the beans are tender; about one hour. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the stuffed raddichio di Treviso: Prepare a hot grill. Place the apple balsamic vinegar in a saucepan over low heat. Simmer until the vinegar thickens slightly, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. Place the apple slices firmly between the radicchio leaves. Wrap the root end of each radicchio quarter with two strips of bacon, allowing the leaves to stick up through the top of the bacon strips, and secure with toothpicks. Place on the grill and cook until the bacon is golden brown, basting with the apple balsamic vinegar. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Spoon a portion of butter beans onto one side of a plate and top with a stuffed pork chop. Slice a grilled radicchio roll into two pieces and arrange on the plate. Place another radicchio roll on the plate and garnish with celery leaves. Drizzle the plate with olive oil and the apple balsamic vinegar and sprinkle with the diced apples and celery slices.

Zinfandel "Dillian Ranch"

Joel Gott

Amador County, California 2000

Pork Chop Confit with Mustard Flan

(Serves 4)

kerry heffernan

ingredients


For the pork chop confit:
1/3 cup salt
1/3 cup granulated sugar
8 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tablespoon ground allspice
2 tablespoons ground nutmeg
1 tablespoon black pepper
2 tablespoons juniper berries
5 bay leaves
4 1 1/2-inch pork chops, frenched
Duck fat as needed

For the mustard flan:
3 eggs
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk
1/4 teaspoon dry mustard powder
1 ounce Dijon mustard
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the sauce:
1 teaspoon whole allspice
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon juniper berries
3 cups chicken stock
2/3 cup veal stock
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the dish:
Sauteed shiitake mushrooms
Blanched scallions
Julienned breakfast radishes *
Chopped chives

* Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

directions

For the pork chop confit: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment, combine the salt, sugar, garlic, allspice, nutmeg, black pepper, juniper berries, and bay leaves. Pulse to combine; transfer to a bowl and add the pork chops. Toss to coat and place in the refrigerator overnight. Rinse the pork chops under running water and pat dry. In a large saucepan, heat the duck fat. Add the pork chops and cook to an internal temperature of 145 degrees. Remove the pork chops from the duck fat and set aside, keeping warm.

For the mustard flan: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Coat four 4-ounce remekins with non-stick spray. In a bowl, combine the eggs, egg yolk, heavy cream, milk, mustard powder, and Dijon. Whisk to combine and season. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and pour into the prepared ramekins. Arrange the ramekins in a small roasting pan and pour in enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Place in the oven and cook until set, about 40 minutes. Remove the ramekins from the water bath and set aside, keeping warm.

For the sauce: Wrap the allspice, peppercorns, and juniper berries in cheesecloth and tie the top to create a sachet. In a saucepan, combine the chicken stock, veal stock, and sachet. Bring to a simmer and cook until reduced by half. Remove the sachet; season and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Slice a pork chop on a bias and place in the center of a bowl. Unmold a mustard flan and slice it in half. Place the flan to one side of the pork chop and arrange the shiitake mushrooms next to it. Fill the bottom of the bowl with sauce and garnish with scallions, julienned radish, and chives.

Cahors

Chateau Lagrezelte

Southwest France, 1999

Cedar-Smoked Pork Chops with Parsnip Gratin

(Serves 4)

kerry heffernan

Ingredients


For the sauce:
1 sprig parsley
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
3/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 1/2 teaspoons Chinese five spice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 pound pork bones
1/2 small onion, peeled and chopped
1/2 small carrot, peeled and chopped
1/2 rib celery, chopped
2 cups pork stock
Cornstarch slurry as needed
1 ounce champagne vinegar
1 ounce butter
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pork cbops:
4 1 1/2-inch thick center cut
 pork chops, frenched

For the parsnip gratin:
4 parsnips, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cups heavy cream
2 teaspoons fennel seed, toasted and ground
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the dish:
4 baby bok choy, cored, blanched, and
halved
Bias cut chives

directions

For the sauce: Wrap the parsley, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, and five spice in cheesecloth and tie the top to create a sachet. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the pork bones and saute until browned on all sides. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and saute until lightly browned. Add the pork stock and sachet and simmer for one and a half hours, skimming the surface as needed. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve into a saucepan. Return to the heat; bring to a simmer and add the cornstarch slurry, whisking constantly. Return to a boil and remove from the heat. Add the champagne vinegar and butter and whisk to combine. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the pork chops: Prepare a hot smoker with hardwood charcoal. Add one cup of soaked cedar chips to the hot charcoal. Place the pork chops on a wire rack and smoke for one hour. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Remove pork chops from the smoker; place in a preheated roasting pan and roast to an internal temperature of 145 degrees. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the parsnip gratin: Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. In a saucepan, combine the parsnips, one and a half cups of heavy cream, and the fennel seed. Season and bring to a simmer for four minutes. Remove the parsnips and place in a baking dish, discarding the heavy cream and fennel seed. Cover with the remaining heavy cream and bake until the top is golden brown. Set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Thinly slice a pork chop and fan it onto a plate. Place a portion of parsnip gratin and bok choy next to it. Spoon the sauce around the plate and garnish with the chives.

Gigondas

Chateau Redortier

Southern Rhone, France 1999

Chestnut-Crushed Pork Chops with Caramelized Sweet Potatoes

(Serves 4)

Kerry Heffernan

Ingredients


For the sauce:
1 sprig parsley
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
3/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 sprigs tarragon
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 pound pork bones
1/2 small onion, peeled and chopped
1/2 small carrot, peeled and chopped
1/2 rib celery, chopped
2 cups pork stock
Cornstarch slurry as needed
1/4 cup heavy cream, warm
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pork chops:
1 pound chestnuts, scored, roasted, shelled, and boiled until tender
3 sprigs tarragon, stemmed and chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
4 1 1/2-inch thick center cut pork chops, frenched
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the crust:
1 pound chestnuts, scored, roasted, shelled, and chopped
1 cup panko bread crumbs
1 egg, beaten

For the sweet potatoes:
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
2 sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/2-inch thick
2 tablespoons champagne vinegar
1 1/2 cups Sauternes
1/2 small vanilla bean
Salt and pepper to taste

For the Swiss chard:
1/2 cup water
1 pound Swiss chard
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Tarragon leaves

directions

For the sauce: Wrap the parsley, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, and tarragon in cheesecloth and tie the top to create a sachet. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the pork bones and saute until browned on all sides. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and saute until lightly browned. Add the pork stock and sachet and simmer for one and a half hours, skimming the surface as needed. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve into a saucepan. Return to the heat; bring to a simmer and add the cornstarch slurry, whisking constantly. Return to a boil and remove from the heat. Add the heavy cream; season and blend with a hand-held immersion blender until foamy. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the pork chops: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment, combine the chestnuts, tarragon, garlic, and butter. Pulse to combine and season. Place the pork chops on a cutting board and, using a sharp knife, make an incision near the bone, creating a pocket. Stuff with the chestnut mixture and set aside.

For the crust: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment, combine the chestnuts and the bread crumbs and pulse to combine. Place the egg in a separate bowl. Dip the pork chops in the egg and roll to coat well in the bread crumbs.

For the sweet potatoes: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large saute pan, heat one tablespoon of the butter. Add the sweet potatoes and caramelize on both sides. Add the vinegar, Sauternes, and vanilla bean. Remove from the heat; place in the oven, and cook until tender. Remove the sweet potatoes from the pan and set them aside. Place the pan over medium heat and bring the liquid to a simmer. Reduce the mixture to a glaze consistency and discard the vanilla bean. Add the remaining butter; whisk to combine and season. Remove from the heat; place the sweet potatoes back into the glaze and set aside, keeping warm.

For the Swiss chard: In a saute pan, heat the water. Add the Swiss chard and saute until wilted and cooked through. Season; remove from the heat and set aside; keeping warm.

To finish the pork chops: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a saute pan, heat the vegetable oil. Add the pork chops and saute until golden on all sides. Remove from the heat; place in the oven and roast to an internal temperature of 145 degrees.

To serve: Slice one pork chop into three pieces and arrange in the center of a plate. Place a portion of sweet potatoes and Swiss chard to either side. Spoon the sauce around the dish and garnish with the tarragon leaves.

Riesling, Grand Cru

Albert Boxler "Sommerberg"

Alsace, France 1999

Sage-Roasted Park Chops en Croute

(Serves 4)

Kerry heffernan

ingredients


For we sauce:
1 sprig parsley
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
3/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 sprigs sage
3 cloves roasted garlic
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 pound pork bones
1/2 small onion, peeled and chopped
1/2 small carrot, peeled and chopped
1/2 rib celery, chopped
2 cups pork stock
Cornstarch slurry as needed Salt and pepper to taste

For the dough:
18 ounces all-purpose flour
2 ounces fine sea salt
2 ounces shortening
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup water

For the pork chops:
1/2 pound caul fat, soaked, rinsed, and dried
10 sprigs sage, stemmed
4 double cut pork chops, one
  bone removed, frenched
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  Reserved dough squares
1 egg, beaten
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Baby spinach, sauteed
Roasted garlic
Thyme sprigs

directions

For the sauce: Wrap the parsley, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, sage, and roasted garlic in cheesecloth and tie the top to create a sachet. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the pork bones and saute until browned on all sides. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and saute until lightly browned. Add the pork stock and sachet and simmer for one and a half hours, skimming the surface as needed. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve into a saucepan. Return to the heat; bring to a simmer and add the cornstarch slurry, whisking constantly. Return to a boil and remove from the heat. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the dough: In a bowl, combine the flour and sea salt. Add the shortening and mix to combine. Form the mixture into a mound and create a well in the center. Pour the eggs and water into the well and mix thoroughly to combine. Transfer to a floured work surface and knead mixture until it forms a smooth dough. Roll the dough to 1/4-inch thickness; cut into four even squares large enough to enclose each pork chop and set aside in the refrigerator.

For the pork chops: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. On a flat work surface, lay out four sheets of caul fat and arrange half of the sage leaves over the top in an even layer. Season the pork chops; place in the center of the caul fat sheets and cover with the remaining sage leaves. Wrap the caul fat tightly around the pork chops, trimming off any excess. In a large saute pan, heat the oil. Sear the pork chops on all sides until golden brown; remove from the pan and let cool. Place each of the pork chops in the center of the reserved dough squares and mold the dough around the pork chops, leaving the bones exposed. Brush with the egg. Place on a wire rack-lined sheet pan and roast until the crust is golden and the pork chops reach an internal temperature of 145 degrees, about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Slice the top of the dough from a pork chop and carefully remove the chop from the crust. Slice the pork chop and place it back into the crust; lay it on a plate with the sage leaves exposed. Spoon a portion of sauce onto the plate and place the spinach next to the pork chop. Garnish with roasted garlic and thyme sprigs.

Haut-Coles de Nuits Villages Rouge

Bertrand Ambraise

Cote d'Or, France 1998