Breaking new ground: indoor climbing areas can simulate the outdoor experience, attracting a whole new clientele.

The art of creating a simulated outdoor experience in an indoor environment is an adventure in creativity and cleverness. Without the birds chirping overhead, the perfect blue skies and the occasional wildlife sighting, indoor gyms need to come up with some interesting elements for bringing people inside.

There are indoor climbing facilities of varying sizes and descriptions in nearly every state in the U.S., and the interest in climbing continues to grow. The gym clientele ranges from the recreational athlete to the seasoned "rock jock," and these climbing areas have truly fostered some incredible climbing talent nationwide. "First, climbers learn safe-climbing techniques with modern equipment. Second, it can be a place to meet other climbers in an active community. And third, climbers get better from the instruction, training and osmosis of other climbers," says Charlie Boas, manager of operations at a rock climbing gym in Boulder, Colo.

While climbing indoors may never fully re-create the outdoor experience, it can offer invaluable skills in climbing technique, be an essential training tool for competition and greatly increase strength for the next challenging outdoor climbing adventure.

Design Standards 

The first big decision facility managers should make (after selecting a large enough space) is in the design of the gym's climbing features. Today, there are several "simulated rock" manufacturers who are in the business of exclusively designing and fabricating large "cliffs," "boulders" and slabs of "rock" for the purpose of climbing. Rich Cook, the general manager of a Colorado climbing wall manufacturer, describes the process that managers use when deciding on a wall structure, "Most clients are looking for a blend of terrain. Areas for kids and groups, steep design for climbing enthusiasts and bouldering options round out the mix."

Cook calls customized climbing features, "inspired design," which can lead to a diverse range of cracks, features, teaching terrain, lead terrain and color finishes, he says. The idea is to offer the user the most authentic climbing experience possible in the indoor environment. These rock wall manufacturers often create structures that mirror actual outdoor cliffs and boulders.

It is not uncommon to place freestanding boulders in the center of a climbing area that perfectly replicate the boulders in world-class climbing destinations such as the pocketed igneous rock of Hueco Tanks, Texas, and the textured egg-shaped sandstone boulders of Fontainebleau, France. In essence, a climber can "travel the world," climbing the simulated geology of Texas followed by the famed rock of France, minus the wine and pastries.

In order to increase the range of fitness opportunities and enable the climber to alter and change routes on a regular basis, molded plastic holds are scattered all over the surface of the wall. These holds come in a variety of sizes and configurations that replicate natural hand and foot holds. They simulate real rock features such as big "buckets," impossible "crimpers" and tenacious "slopers." "Route setters" are essentially able to create new routes as often as possible to keep the gym fresh. These textured plastic holds allow climbing facilities to change routes on a regular basis, designed to allow staff the artistic freedom for creating unique climbing routes with the desired purpose of challenging all climbing abilities.

Creating Community

In order to keep climbers returning to the facility, managers can strive to create a sense of community. Competitions, slideshow and video presentations documenting recent climbing adventures, guest speakers and gym-sponsored climbing teams are creative options to grab the attention of the gym's members. Many gyms can also offer several training classes to meet the varying needs of their clientele. Classes ranging from basic rope skills to advanced mountaineering are often arranged or taught in gyms nationwide.

Generally, after several weeks of inside training, the climbers are taken into the outdoor environment to practice what they've learned on real rock. Under the careful supervision of American Mountain Guides Association-certified guides, the students become confident in a full-range of mountaineering skills from anchor placement and setup to rigging a rappel and rescue techniques. Experience like this can help elevate the typical "wall rat" to a skilled mountaineer.

There is also several training- and strength-related classes specific to climbing offered at many facilities. At the Boulder Rock Club in Boulder, Colo., climbers can sign up for classes with titles such as "Getting Over Your Fear of Falling," "Increase your Grip Strength," or "Enhance your Climbing Movement." At another rock climbing gym in Colorado, an "Animal Strength" class is offered for the sole purpose of maxing out a climber's full power potential, and involves incredibly rigorous strength-building exercises using everyday items such as sledgehammers, stairways and heavy balls. All of these classes can be implemented in any gym with a rock climbing wall as long as certified trainers are teaching the classes.

One of the most basic ways managers can create a sense of community is by incorporating a meeting place or social center within their facility. Installing or leasing space to a coffee shop or healthy bistro is a great way to attract climbers who can fuel up on espresso or a veggie burrito while making plans for a weekend climbing excursion.

This area can become the center of activity at a gym where climbers can find belay partners, share information about routes or even get a date. "Having a social center in a gym creates a sense of belonging to something bigger than just a workout facility. It's a place where friends share a common experience," declares Emily Stewart, a climber and former route setter.

Challenges

Despite the fun and energy associated with climbing gyms, creating a successful and viable facility for the local community can be challenging. Certainly developing and growing an effective climbing area that meets the needs of a wide spectrum of abilities can present a difficult task. Boas in Boulder, Colo., sees this as his gym's biggest challenge. "We have the whole spectrum of people from professional climbers to first-day folks learning to belay. We have to entertain them all under one roof and make everyone feel welcome and safe."

Another challenge that managers face is the issue of seasonality. It's easy to bring in the numbers when the ground is blanketed in a foot of snow or an endless blast of wet weather keeps a relentless grip on the city. However, once winter breaks, the sun is shining and the days are lasting longer, it becomes harder to bring climbers into the gym. This is especially challenging for facilities located in states with vast climbing resources.

Colorado and California facility managers are constantly developing ways to keep climbers interested in year-round training because the states they reside in have unlimited outdoor climbing opportunities. Boas says his facility gets creative in the summertime by offering unique programming. "Summer deals, birthday parties, team building sessions and simply the winter revenue are the means of getting through the rough spots of summer," he says.

Perhaps the biggest challenge in indoor climbing is that it can never really substitute for outdoor climbing. The idea of bringing a wilderness experience inside can be rewarding for the many users and facility managers, but it can also present a potentially dangerous challenge. Becoming a competent and strong indoor climber does not always correlate to being the same climber outside.

Gyms cannot begin to emulate the risks inherent with the outdoor experience. Falling rock, loose-fixed protection, proper protective gear placement and basic anchor-building skills are not addressed indoors without advanced instruction. One issue that climbing gyms have faced through the years is its inexperienced members putting themselves in danger on an outdoor climb, falsely believing that they have all the skills necessary to navigate a real rock route or boulder problem.

While routes are clearly marked with colored tape indoors, finding routes on real rock is a skill that can only be developed through experience. It is not uncommon for indoor climbers to find out that he is "in over his head" when two pitches tip or 300 feet off the deck. This situation can have serious consequences.

Climbing indoors may never fully replicate the wonders and adventure of the outdoor climbing experience, but it can offer an ideal training opportunity or recreational pursuit for enthusiasts anywhere in the U.S. Climbing gyms have revealed the thrill of rock climbing to people who never had the opportunity to do so otherwise. They have also been integral in the development of strong youth competition climbers, providing accessible training seven days a week.

Everyone visits a climbing wall with a different goal in mind, but all climbing facilities should introduce the aspiring rock hound to the art and grace of "movement over stone." That is a feeling that only a climber will experience, whether indoors or out.

INSTANT EXPERT

First official public indoor climbing gym in the U.S. opened in 1986.

Indoor climbing facilities now number more than 400 nationwide.

There are more than 30 climbing gyms in California.

There are more than 30 climbing hold manufacturers in the U.S.

Climbing gym membership rates range from $40-$60 per month.

An estimated 400,000 people in the U.S. consider themselves a rock climber.