Border Bravehearts; JOHN KELLIE found plenty to write home about on a weekend away in the Borders.

YOU would be surprised at how much you can cram into a weekend in the Borders.

I booked a couple of nights in a B&B and headed off for Melrose. Driving down on the Friday, rain spattered the windscreen and the rolling Border hills were misty and grey.

But the following morning Scotland's sunny south lived up to its reputation when I woke up to blue skies and a king- size breakfast.

Melrose offers a variety of attractions within easy walking distance. I kicked off at the famous abbey, founded by King David I in 1136.

The building suffered badly over the years at the hands of invading English armies, but it's now secure in the care of Historic Scotland. Under a simple stone, the heart of Robert The Bruce is buried in the shadow of the abbey walls.

In another quiet corner I spotted the headstone of one Peter Mathieson, coachman of Sir Walter Scott, whose country house I planned to visit that afternoon.

But first I bought an ice-cream and strolled to Harmony Garden, a National Trust For Scotland property a few minutes from the abbey.

Harmony was built by James Waugh, a local joiner, who named his house and garden after the spice plantation in Jamaica where he'd made his fortune.

An enthusiastic gardener took a break to explain that the original daffodil bulbs, which bloom every spring, were planted in 1902, and they've multiplied over the years.

It costs pounds 30,000 a year to maintain Harmony Garden, and an honesty box at the gate asks visitors to contribute.

To enjoy the beauty and tranquillity of this special place, it's a couple of pounds well spent.

Abbotsford House was the home of Sir Walter Scott, the most popular writer of his day and author of Rob Roy and Ivanhoe.

Situated a couple of miles from Melrose on the banks of the Tweed, Abbotsford still has its original 19th century furnishings and provides an insight into Scott's life and times.

You can examine the author's writing desk, leather-bound first editions of his works and even his top hat and walking stick. In the library I discovered a who's who of Scottish history - fabric from Mary Queen Of Scots' dress, a dagger belonging to Rob Roy Macgregor, and a lock of Bonnie Prince Charlie's hair.

Once you've explored the house, you might decide to saunter through the gardens or refuel on delicious home- baking in the tea room - I did both.

But don't overdo it - when it comes to eating you're spoiled for choice in Melrose, from the chip shop and Chinese takeaway to a variety of restaurants and bar meals. I plumped for Italian and tucked into the best pizza north of Naples.

The following morning I drove round to Scott's View, the best vantage- point for a look at the triple peaks of the Eildon Hills, a prominent local landmark. Allegedly the hill- top was split in three when a medieval wizard got a bit carried away.

But one thing you can't deny is the beauty of the surrounding landscape, as the hills rise above a silvery loop in the River Tweed.

I continued another mile or two and parked in a roadside lay-by. I had an appointment to keep with another hero from Scotland's past. I changed into walking shoes and wandered down a winding forest track. The woods were brimming with birdsong and there wasn't a soul to be seen.

That is, until I stumbled across an astonishing sight. Decked out in kilt and armour, a 30- foot William Wallace was gazing silently at the distant hills. It all started 200 years ago when a certain Lord Buchan decided to erect a statue of Rabbie Burns.

When His Lordship's block of sandstone arrived, it was so huge he had second thoughts and decided it suited to a man the size of Sir William.

It's said this was Scotland's first ever statue of Wallace. But I'd have to say this Border Braveheart owes more to Desperate Dan than to Mel Gibson.

Tucked in the valley below the sandstone giant lie the ruins of Dryburgh Abbey. Surrounded by woods and hills, it's said to have the most romantic setting of all the Border abbeys.

Ancient cedar trees, brought back from the Holy Land at the time of the Crusades, shade the abbey lawns. The grounds were awash with flowers, and it was silent except for the sleepy coo- ing of a wood-pigeon. Dryburgh wasn't always so quiet. Like the other Border abbeys, it couldn't escape the ravages of war - its buildings were set alight in 1322 and again in 1385.

I turned west from Dryburgh and headed for Traquair - at 800 years old, Scotland's oldest inhabited house. By the entrance- way, I stopped to examine the Bear Gates, locked when Bonnie Prince Charlie rode out in 1745 and not to be opened until a Stuart king returns to the Scottish throne.

Inside the old white house, I tip-toed along mysterious passageways, explored secret cellars and staircases, and viewed the actual bed slept in by Mary Queen Of Scots.

In the gardens, I lost myself in the maze before visiting the 16th century brewery, still in operation today.

The past hangs heavy at Traquair - it's said that if you linger after sunset you may come face to face with a ghostly Grey Lady.

Sadly I couldn't wait, I had to be back at my desk on Monday morning. But in a couple of days I'd sampled a thousand years of Scottish history and legend. Not bad for a weekend break.

And I had one last port of call before calling it a day. In a quiet corner beneath the Eildon Hills, a stone marks the spot where 700 years ago one local man met the Fairy Queen. Thomas The Rhymer was spirited away for seven years, or so the story goes.

As I soaked up the sunshine and the glorious Border scenery, I found it hard to imagine why Thomas agreed to go. True, he nipped off to an enchanted land. But he left behind a region of Scotland that's absolutely magic.

Details

The Scottish Borders Tourist Board (Tel: [phone]) can supply a Guide To Accommodation in the area, covering hotels, guest houses, B&B and self- catering accommodation. Their reservations service on 0870 608 0404 can check availability and make bookings.

Free booklets are available on Walking, Fishing, Cycling and Golf Holidays, as well as other guidebooks and maps. A two-night autumn break for two people at Kilkerran House, Melrose, costs from pounds 95. Tel: [phone].