Blue footed boobies and bourbon coffee.

On February 12, 1832, Colonel Ignacio Hernandez took possession of the Galapagos Islands in the name of the Ecuadorian government. These islands turned out to be much more than volcanic outcroppings, but a mysterious land of exotic and rare flora and fauna which became the studying grounds of Charles Darwin.

In 1875, Don Manuel J. Cobos, an Ecuadorian, planted 100 ha. of arabica bourbon coffee on the Hacienda El Cafetal on San Cristobal Island. Due to the Humboldt Current, which produces unusual climactic effects on Galapagos, the plantation is located 450 to 900 feet above sea level--equivalent to 3,000 to 6,000 feet above sea level on the mainland. But, as the world's coffee business moved toward a volume oriented business, the small quality conscious coffee industry in the Galapagos fell on hard times and was abandoned.

Three years ago, the Gonzalez family of Ecuador's coffee exporting company EXPIGO, cut through the thickets of the now jungle-like coffee plantation and bought the plantation. Realizing the increasing demand for gourmet coffee, the Gonzalez were intrigued with the hacienda's history and realized the unique opportunities that this source of coffee could provide.

The climate with the Humboldt current, the intense equatorial sun, and the dramatic climate change that occurs as the altitude increases (100 degrees at sea level, 50-60 degrees at 900 feet) the Gonzalez family improved and expanded the plantation to its present size of 200 ha.

"By government decree, any old plantation can be used for crops on the Galapagos, but the rest of the islands are reserved as a natural park," said Wilson Gonzalez, president of Expigo and owner of El Cafetal hacienda. It is not possible to expand the coffee area there--only 100 ha. more is available for re-cultivation from the original hacienda.

Annual production of this rarity amounts currently to 500 bags of Grade 1, screen 18 coffee and about 500 bags of grade II. Gonzalez said that plans are to expand production on the current farm to as much as 5,000 bags on which 2,500 will be of Grade I quality.

Washing water from the volcanic lake El Junco provides the only fresh water supplies on the Galapagos Island. One of the rivers, with its mineral rich, fresh water, keeps the soils moist and fertile and runs right through the coffee hacienda.

"We are improving the crops each year," said Gonzalez. "Two years ago we began clearing, renovating, and arranging trees which were planted 100 years ago. As a natural park, the importation or use of fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, or any other chemical is strictly prohibited by law. Added to the unique climactic aspects of the island, this creates an organic grown coffee that is truly special in its presentation, aroma, body, and cup.

Representation outside Ecuador is by J. Aron and Company., 85 Broad Street, New York, NY 10004. Tel: [phone]; Fax: [phone].