Blue Marlin offers feel, flavors of the Caribbean in Leominster.Byline: Bill Cory Perhaps we expected something a little more formal in appearance, like Blue Marlin's cousin and neighbor, The Monument Grill. The restaurant is nicely divided into two rooms and a bar, with good access from the street or the rear parking lot. The five flat-screen TVs are unobtrusive. It's appropriate that this new enterprise feels more like the Caribbean: surfing posters, fish, hats, and plenty of pink and blue. At first, we noticed the waves in the booth backs; later the chairs and more colorful artwork, then bamboo. The deeper inside we went, the more intriguing the decor became. We really needed to begin with a pina colada pi·ña co·la·da n. A mixed drink made of rum, coconut cream, and unsweetened pineapple juice. [Spanish, strained pineapple : piña, pineapple + colada, strained. , pricey at $7.99 but substantial in size and well made. In the spirit of the season, a large Summer draft from the always reliable local Wachusett brewery was excellent, at $4.25. Fifteen or so appetizers cost from $2.99 for a fish taco to $10.99 for a crab cake A crab cake is an American dish comprised of a crab meat patty and various other ingredients such as breadcrumbs, milk, eggs, onions, and seasonings. Occasionally other ingredients such as red or green peppers are added, at which point the cake is then sautéed, baked, or grilled, or rare tuna sashimi. Among these are oysters and shrimp by the piece, crab rangoons, mahi cerviche, steamers and calamari as well as clam chowder chowder, stew of fish or shellfish with potatoes, onions, and pork (usually salt pork), thickened with crumbled hard bread. The name chowder seems to have originated from the French word chaudière . We chose fried calamari Fried calamari is a popular seafood dish served in many Mediterranean countries' restaurants such as Greece, Italy, Spain and Turkey. It is a relatively simple dish, which consists of batter coated, deep fried squid, often fried for under two minutes to prevent it from becoming too , which were perfectly done and tender for $7.99. Had I looked more carefully, I would have spotted another calamari for a dollar more - tossed with fresh pineapple and sweet chili sauce. We had no complaints with the more usual preparation, though. A pan-seared lump crab cake for $10.99 was quite good, nearly all crab, well seasoned and presented, if a bit less "lumpy" than I'd hoped. Bermuda fish chowder with dark rum and sherry pepper sauce Noun 1. pepper sauce - for venison: brown sauce with sauteed vegetables and trimmings and marinade and plenty of pepper Poivrade sauce - flavorful relish or dressing or topping served as an accompaniment to food , $4.99, was somewhat like a thin Newburg sauce, but overall, I found it lacking in, well, fish. The Soup Goddess? Equally unenthusiastic. Other than a pair of chicken dishes and a New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of sirloin, the menu is pure seafood, which is why we came here. In addition to the expected fish selections, we found mahi-mahi, red snapper (now, there's a great fish) sea bass, and lobster mac and cheese. The preparations sound imaginative: peppercorn pep·per·corn n. 1. A dried berry of the pepper vine Piper nigrum. 2. A small or insignificant thing. peppercorn Noun the small dried berry of the pepper plant encrusted en·crust also in·crust tr.v. en·crust·ed, en·crust·ing, en·crusts 1. To cover or coat with or as if with a crust: swordfish swordfish, large food and game fish, Xiphias gladius, of the warmer Atlantic and Pacific waters, related to the sailfish. It is named for its sharp, broad, elongated upper jaw, which it uses to flail and pierce its prey of smaller fish, rising beneath a school with a brandy cream sauce; mahi-mahi over toasted coconut rice with a mango drizzle and fruit salsa; macadamia-encrusted sea bass. Fried clam strips are $9.99 - a surf & turf with steak and two baked, stuffed shrimp, $32.99. The Soup Goddess chose haddock piccata pic·ca·ta adj. Sliced, sautéed, and served in a sauce containing lemon, butter, and spices. Used of meat or fish. [Italian, feminine of piccato, larded, past participle of piccarsi , with butter, garlic, capers CAPERS. Vessels of war owned by private persons, and different from ordinary privateers (q.v.) only in size, being smaller. Bea. Lex. Mer. 230. and lemon over fresh linguini, for $14.99. Her cryptic summation: bland. My lobster casserole, $22.99 with butter, white wine and crumb topping, had plenty of lobster to offer, but was light on crumbs and heavy with butter. White wine? No hint. The accompanying rice was - there's that word again - bland; broccolini was al dente to a fault. Bread pudding varies by the day and the chef's whim. We were happy to try orange-pineapple; delicious and substantial. A coconut-filled chocolate macaroon mac·a·roon n. A chewy cookie made with sugar, egg whites, and almond paste or coconut. [French macaron, from Italian dialectal maccarone, dumpling, macaroni. sundae with hot fudge and whipped cream was as good - and overwhelming - as it sounds. Each great dessert was $6.99. Perhaps we arrived bedazzled with visions of The Monument Grill, which has been superb on a half-dozen or more visits, but we did feel somewhat let down by Blue Marlin. But we will certainly try it again, hoping for a more "Monumental" experience. Blue Marlin 19-20 Central St. (Route 12 northbound), Leominster www.mybluemarlin.com * *-1/2 Hours: Noon-8 p.m. Sunday; 11:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday; 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Thursday through Saturday; closed Monday Phone: (978) 537-2900 Parking: Street, rear lot Handicapped access: Good Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express Prices: Moderate to expensive; entrees $9.99-$32.99; lobsters to market Plusses: Broad menu, interesting preparations; a piece of the Caribbean in an unlikely spot Minuses: The kitchen didn't deliver on the promise of the menu About the Stars Perfection: * * * * Very Good: * * * Good: * * Below Par: * Serious Flaws: No stars Etc. restaurant reviews are the opinions of reviewers based upon at least one visit to the restaurant. The reviewer is accompanied by at least one companion. Recommendations from readers about restaurants they would like to have reviewed are welcome. |
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