Black magic.

Byline: GEOFF LAWS

TABLE FOR 2 GEOFF LAWS

Cafe Black Door, 1 Camden Street, North Shields

THERE'S been masses of revitalisation in the North East in recent years. Areas that once were derelict have risen phoenix-like into new life.

Gateshead made a great start, trimming its main through road with flowerbeds and black railings on newly-installed garden walls. The silver chrysalis roof of the Sage blazed the borough's pride.

Stacks of neatly designed apartment blocks, interspersed with green areas, range along the riverside, confidently declaring the North East is the place to be. As new builds arrive, so do clusters of bars and restaurants servicing the local population, which is where Cafe Black Door comes in.

In many ways it bridges the old and the new. Although in the heart of revamped North Shields, it's part of the long-established Magnesia Bank pub, famous for live music and real ales.

These authentic ingredients for a good night out are in keeping with chef-entrepreneur David Kennedy's principles about restaurant food. It wasn't surprising then, that he took over The Bank's restaurant and opened another Black Door.

His combination of good quality food at reasonable prices is just one of the hallmarks of the Black Door chain and we went along to investigate.

The well-priced, three-course menu looked very interesting and I was in a bit of a dither trying to choose between the dishes on offer. My companion was in the same dilemma, but choose we must and did.

First up was a warm salad of duck.

The shards of meat, with a natural, oily sheen, snuggled under folds of lightly dressed salad fizzing with chilli and finely sliced shallots. A great combination, as were the fish cakes with a tomato and chilli stew.

Three golden globes of fish, mixed with potatoes and parsley, sat proudly beside a hearty tomato and onion salsa that brought a sweet/savoury punch to the dish.

Both dishes had the Kennedy hallmark of flavour and imagination clearly stamped on them and we went forward, confident these qualities would follow through to what, being in North Shields, would have to be fish main courses.

My seafood risotto was the best I've ever had. If I could make risotto like that I would die happy.

The rice was just perfect - each grain separate yet linked by the light, stock-enriched sauce that glazed and melted the Parmesan shards into the mix.

Mini chunks of salmon, white fish and prawns punctuated the rice and once the salad leaves, neatly dressed in a citrus glaze, was incorporated, I was well on the way to a happy ending.

My companion's poached salmon and salad Nicoise was another excellent dish.

The huge salmon fillet was presented on a bed of beautifully constructed salad that had all the classic ingredients of hard boiled egg, glossy French beans, salad leaves, new potatoes, black olives and silvery sardines. Each one was confident of its contribution, yet none outshone another.

Oh happy day. With food of this outstanding quality, desserts were bound to be good... and they were.

Eton mess is a relatively straightforward dish, with crushed meringue and whipped cream being the staples, but the skill lies in how you put it together. In this case it was a fabulous mixture of the above with fragrant passion fruit and creamy banana.

An amazingly good finish to the meal, as was the mousse brulee. A ramekin of creamy, soft custard lay under a brittle crunch topping. The creamy warmth of the foamy custard countermanded the crunch of the caramelised sugar and the deeply flavoured, vanilla ice cream that came with it was truly to die for.

Sweet almost to the point of OTT and then just pulling back - these were five-star desserts.

Aah, Mr Kennedy, in the words of the advert, with dishes like this you spoil us... but then, we all deserve spoiling once in a while and, with such affordable treats, it could become a habit..

THE FACTS Address: Cafe Black Door, 1 Camden Street, North Shields, NE30 1NH Tel: [phone] Open: Wednesday-Saturday 5.30pm-9.30pm Where is it? In the heart of North Shields.

First impressions: Light and airy.

Welcome: Breezy and relaxed.

Style, design and furnishings: Fresh and airy with retro-chic sitting comfortably beside post-industrial ironwork.

Red, ivory and black with nostalgic local photographs.

Well-spaced tables and classy napery. Music starts at 9pm and comes through to the dining room.

Cuisine: Modern British with European elements.

Wine: Santa Serena, Chilean, Sauvignon Blanc 2008. Top heavy with lemon at first but quickly finding its place with the food. Successful compromise and well-priced at pounds 11.95 Service: Quietly efficient.

Value: Excellent value at pounds 48.95. Two courses for pounds 14.50, three for pounds 18.50.

Early bird, 5pm-7pm, two courses for pounds 10, three for pounds 13.

Parking: Small car park and street parking.

Disabled facilities: Restaurant accessible, toilets not accessible..

CAPTION(S):

TOP MARKS Executive chef of the Black Door Group David Kennedy, above left, prepares the evening's menu for the latest edition, the Black Door Cafe in North Shields, left, serving dishes like poached salmon, below.