Bite of L.A.

THE Business Journal Gourmet was once a feature of the paper, a critique penned by "an anonymous, world-traveled writer."

Of the many restaurants whose dishes were described, few remain open. One surviving establishment, Gardenia, seemed like one of the more eccentric, according to a Nov.. 15, 1982 review.

"Gardenia is a boldly experimental restaurant, and most of the risks pay off. The look is a harmonious cross between art deco and sleek modern ... The final effect is that of a speakeasy in a time warp. Black track lighting with pink frosted lights repeats the color scheme on the walls. The pianist enhances the ambience with a repertoire of '20s jazz."

The Gourmet noted the unusual entrees: "When was the last time you are at a restaurant whose appetizers included deviled marrow bones ($6), consisting of baked bone marrow with a 'spicy topping'?"

Gardenia has replaced the bone marrow with tamer fare. The restaurant now sticks to traditional meat and pasta dishes and appetizers such as salad and stuffed grape leaves. Diners are still treated to nightly lounge-style musical entertainment.

Another Gourmet review from 1982 described Jimmy's in Beverly Hills this way: "The country is in a recession, but the large parties of businessmen at this very expensive restaurant suggested that not all firms are suffering - at least not their expense accounts."

Jimmy's closed in 1998 but owner Jimmy Murphy's children reopened it as Jimmy's II in 1999, but it closed a short time later. One of the sons, Sean Murphy, runs Jimmy's Tavern on Pico Boulevard, in West L.A.

"Out of the Past" is published each week to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Business Journal.