Bill Telepan.

Bill Telepan, Judson Grill, New York, NY.

bill Telepan is a chef who had no "back door" connection upon entering the business of cooking. Still, with lots of hard work and initiative, he trained with the best in the world. He was the last American to work in the legendary kitchen of the late Alain Chapel who, along with other mentors, taught him to appreciate and use seasonal produce in his creations, an idea that was rare ten years ago.

Having worked with chefs like Alfred Portale of the Gotham Bar and Grill and the late Gilbert Le Coze of Le Bernardin, Bill Telepan has been around the block and again. With an impressive background in the kitchen, Telepan has been "doin' good" in one of New York's toughest restaurant areas of West 52nd Street for the last four years.

This predominantly corporate area of Manhattan has some fierce restaurant competition: Le Bernardin, Palio, and great steak houses galore sit side by side. With a majority of clients on extravagant expense accounts, there are very high expectations to meet. While attracting and keeping business is now tougher than before, JUdson Grill is still busy. Bill Telepan is doing something right to keep the diners coming back for more.

Strangely enough, Telepan is a simple, honest cook at heart. He translates these qualities into his food through his use of fresh and seasonal products, which he incorporates into his dishes only when nature decides it is time. Not particularly keen on Asian vegetables, Telepan focuses more on local farm-grown products. He even searches for rare seeds, passing them on to local farmers he works with so they can grow unique produce for use in his kitchen. Telepan finds joy in each season's harvest and implements fresh ingredients into the menu accordingly.

Bill Telepan is one of those respected chefs that has been a constant presence in the business. By balancing his kitchen, Telepan manages to keep a loyal and dedicated staff. "Managing [a kitchen] in general is really hard; we're not really taught that as chefs," he explains. To achieve this balance, he strives to assess and focus on each individual's strengths. He works hard to teach and train his proteges according to the same philosophies he acquired from his mentors in order to pass down his legacy to a new generation of cooks.

Sardines with Chorizo and Cayenne Oil (Serves 4)

directions

To prepare the sardines: Place 1/4 cup of kosher salt on a plastic wrap lined sheet pan. Lay the sardines on top and cover with the remaining salt. Allow this mixture to cure for three hours. Remove the sardines from the salt, lightly rinse with water, and pat dry. combine the remaining ingredients, and pour over the sardines to marinade. Refrigerate for four hours.

For the chorizo: In a saute pan, heat two tablespoons of the olive oil. Render the chorizo until it becomes golden brown.

Add the onion and garlic with a pinch of salt and saute until translucent. Add the red pepper and saute until tender. Add the cayenne pepper and the remaining oil. Warm the oil and remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool. Strain the oil and add chopped parsley and cilantro before serving.

Domaine de Triennes Rose

Provence, France 2000

To serve: Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees. Remove the sardines from the marinade. Place them on a sheet pan and bake for about 7-10 minutes. Place two fillets on each plate. Spoon some chorizo oil over the sardines. Garnish with parsley sprigs and cayenne peppers.

Vin Gris 

ingredients


For the sardines:
10 sardines, filleted and cleaned
3/4 cup kosher salt
2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon crushed black peppercorn
4 sprigs of chopped parsley
1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil

For the chorizo:
2 chorizo sausages, peeled and cut into a medium dice
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 small onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, cleaned, and cut
into strips
1 cayenne pepper, sliced thick
3 sprigs parsley, minced
3 sprigs cilantro, minced

For the garnish:
Cayenne pepper

Braised Short Ribs with Horseradish Oil (Serves 4)

directions

For the short ribs: Pre-heat the oven to 300 degrees. Heat the oil in a skillet large enough to accommodate the ribs. Season and brown the ribs on all sides. Remove the ribs and acid the vegetables to the pan. Saute the vegetables until well caramelized. Add two cups of stock and bring to a boil. Add the ribs and simmer, adding more stock if necessary to cover the ribs. Cover the ribs with a circle of parchment paper and braise in the oven. After one hour, turn the ribs over and continue to cook until tender for 1 1/2 hours more.

Remove the ribs from the stock. Strain the stock and simmer. Skim the fat to yield 2 cups of liquid, adding more stock if necessary. Add the pickle juices to the liquid. Season and pour over the ribs, keeping warm.

For the beets: Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees. Place each variety of beets in separate roasting pans with one tablespoon of' oil, two tablespoons of water, salt and pepper. Cover the beets with aluminum foil and roast until tender, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove the beets from the oven and cool. Peel the beets. Slice the Chioggia beets very thinly. Dice the red beets and puree until smooth, adding beef stock minimally as necessary. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the vegetables: In two medium saucepans, saute the carrots and celery root with two tablespoons of butter separately. Add 1/4 cup of stock to each pan. Adjust seasoning and cook until tender. In another saucepan, melt four tablespoons of butter f'or the cabbage. Saute and add 1/2 cup to the cabbage. Adjust seasoning and cook until tender. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the horseradish oil: Whisk all the ingredients together and infuse for one hour.

To serve: Place the Chioggia beets on the bottoms of four bowls. Place the carrots, celery root and cabbage on top of the beets. Place the beef rib on top of the vegetables. Make two quenelles of' beet puree; lay them along side the beef ribs and drizzle some horseradish oil on top of the beef. Spoon hot, seasoned broth over the ribs. Place a quenelle of cabbage on to of the beef. Garnish with dill.

Cerasuolo di Vittori

Cantina dell'Acale

Sicily, Italy 1998

ingredients


For the short ribs:
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 large beef short ribs, cut in half
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 onion, peeled and chopped
1 small carrot, peeled and chopped
1/4 celery root, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
2-3 cups beef stock
3 tablespoons pickled beet juice
3 tablespoons dill pickle juice

For the beets and red beet puree:
4 chioggia beets, trimmed
4 small red beets, trimmed
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the Vegetables:
1 large carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 celery root, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 head Savoy cabbage, julienned
4 ounces unsalted butter
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup beef stock

For the horseradish oil:
4 tablespoons horseradish, peeled and grated
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 sprigs parsley, stemmed and minced
4 sprigs dill, stemmed and minced

For the garnish:
Dill sprigs

Spicy Ceviche with Muskmelon and Cilantro (Serves 4)

directions

For the ceviche: In a medium bowl, combine the kohlrabi, lemon and lime juices, red onion, and habanero. Mix together and cover with plastic wrap, keeping the vegetables submerged in the liquid. Marinate for two hours in the refrigerator.

Halve and remove the seeds of the melon. Cut one melon half into 1/4-inch slices and place in a blender. Blend to yield about 1/2 cup of juice. Cut the remaining half into large chunks and then slice into 1/4 -inch slices. Chill the juice and sliced melon.

Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Slice crosswise into thin slices. Strain the chilled marinated kohlrabi, reserving the marinade. Mix a half-cup of the marinade and melon juice with the olive oil to make a vinaigrette. Season with salt. Add the cucumbers, parsley, and cilantro to the kohlrabi mixture. Pour the vinaigrette into the bowl and mix all the ingredients together.

To serve: Cut the melons into decorative halves. Arrange the melon halves on the plate securely. Alternate the ceviche vegetables into a stack. Garnish with peppers, coriander, and drizzle with some of the vinaigrette.

Scheurebe Kabinette Bechtheimer Hasensprung

Kurt Erbeldinger

Rheinhessen, Germany 1999

ingredients


For the ceviche:
1 bunch kohlrabi, trimmed and cut in half, then
cut into 1/4-inch thick slices
Juice of 2 lemons
Juice of 2 limes
1/4 red onion, sliced paper-thin
1 habancero pepper, sliced paper-thin
1 large muskmelon or cantaloupe
1 cucumber, peeled
1/4 bunch cilantro, julienned, plus 8 sprigs
1/4 bunch parsley, julienned
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt to taste

For the garnish:
2 muskmelon or cantaloupe, decoratively
halved and seeded
4 habanero peppers, seeded and cut in half
Coriander sprigs

Scallops with Stuffed Cabbage and Paprika Oil. (Serves 4)

directions

For the paprika oil: Mix the paprika and water together to make a paste. Mix with the oil and place in a scaled container. Shake well to incorporate and allow to rest overnight. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and reserve.

For the stuffed cabbage: Prepare a hot steamer. In a medium saucepan, simmer the scallops in the cream for five minutes. Remove the scallops and reduce the cream by half. Dice the scallops and mix with the cream and barley. Season and wrap this mixture in the blanched cabbage leaves. Heat the stuffed cabbage in the steamer for ten minutes before serving.

For the scallop sauce: In a small sauce pan, simmer the scallops, shallots, garlic, and wine. Reduce until the mixture is dry. Add the chicken stock and simmer for ten minutes. Add the cream and simmer until slightly reduced. Whisk in the butter; season and strain.

For the scallops: Pre-heat the oven to 450 degrees. Season the scallops. In a large saute pan, heat the oil and add the scallops. When the edges begin to brown, place the pan in the oven for three minutes. Remove From the oven and turn the scallops over for another 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and drain on a towel.

To serve: Heat the sauce, add the chopped parsley and spoon onto the plate. Cut the cabbage rolls on the bias and place the two halves on each plate. Stack the scallops and drizzle with paprika oil.

Txocoli

Bodegas Txomin Extoniz

Gelariako Taskolina, Spain 2000

ingredients


For the paprika oil:
2 tablespoons hot paprika
1 teaspoon warm water
3/4 cup grapeseed oil

For the stuffed cabbage:
4 sea scallops
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 cup of cooked, warm barley
4 leaves Savoy cabbage, blanched
Salt and pepper to taste

For the scallop sauce:
2 sea scallops, roughly chopped
1 small shallot, peeled and minced
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1/4 cup white wine
3/4 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Salt to taste

For the scallops:
8 large diver scallops
Salt and white pepper to taste
1/4 cup canola oil
3 sprigs parsley, stemmed and minced

Grilled Octopus in a Green Chili Vinaigrette (Serves 4)

directions

For the octopus: Combine all the ingredients in a large saucepan, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the octopus is tender. Remove from the heat and allow to cool in the liquid. When the octopus is cool, remove the outer skin from the tentacles. Combine the remaining ingredients to make a marinade. Marinate the octopus For a minimum of four hours. Season to taste.

To make the green chili vinaigrette: Mix the ingredients together except for the lemon juice and vegetable stock. Allow to infuse for 30 minutes. Add the lemon juice and vegetable stock. Season and reserve.

To make he artichokes: Trim the artichoke bottoms and slice thinly. Keep in acidulated water. Mix the artichoke hearts with some vinaigrette.

To finish the octopus: Prepare a hot grill. Remove the octopus from the marinade and mark over a hot grill. Coat with the vinaigrette.

To serve: Place an octopus on each plate. Arrange some artichoke bottoms around. Garnish with micro arugula and a sliced jalapeno. Drizzle some of the remaining vinaigrette over the octopus and artichoke.

Thalassitis

Goi'a Wines

Santorini, Greece 2000

ingredients


For the octopus:
4 12-ounce octopuses, tentacles only
2 1/2 cups white wine
5 cups water
1 small carrot, peeled and chopped
1/2 onion, peeled and chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
1 leek, white part only, chopped
1 teaspoon dried red chili flakes
Salt to taste

For the marinade:
1 shallot, peeled and sliced
3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1/3 cup white wine
1/3 cup white wine vinegar
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons crushed black peppercorn
1 teaspoon dried red chili flakes
Salt to taste

For the green chili vinaigrette:
3 jalapenos, chopped; reserve the
seeds from one pepper only
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1/4 red onion, peeled and minced
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 bunch chopped parsley
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 cup vegetable stock
Salt to taste

For the artichokes:
2 large artichoke bottoms, trimmed
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon

For the garnish:
4 jalapeno peppers
2 cups micro arugula *

* Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone]

Roasted Pork Loin with Spicy Carrots (Serves 4)

directions

For the pork: Mix the garlic, pepper flakes and oil together. Rub into the the meat and marinate overnight. Pre-heat the oven to 425 degrees. Season the pork with salt and roast until the desired doneness is reached. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 20 minutes before cutting.

For the sauce: Cut the trimmings into a rough dice. Heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat until just below smoking point; add the oil. Add the trimmings and saute. Remove from the heat and place in the oven to brown. When golden, add the vegetables and brown in the oven, stirring frequently. Add the tomato and soften. Remove from the oven and place over medium heat; add the herbs and wine to deglaze. Reduce until almost dry. Add the stock and simmer about 30 minutes. Strain and reduce to about 1/2 cup. Adjust seasonings.

For the pepperoncini mix: In a medium saucepan, slowly cook the onion and garlic in oil over low to medium heat. Add the celery, a pinch of salt, and saute until tender. Add the tomato to soften. Add the peppers and cook until tender. Season and reserve.

For the carrots: In a large saute pan, melt the butter. Add the carrots, and season with salt. Saute the carrots until the butter begins to separate. Add the stock and cook until the carrots are tender. Toss in the parsley and adjust seasonings.

To serve: Cut the pork into eight portions. Place two chops on each plate and garnish with carrots and pepperoncini. Spoon the sauce on top.

Morellino di Scansano

Riserva Il Puntone

Tuscany, Italy 1998

ingredients


For the pork:
8 cloves garlic, peeled and
roughly chopped
2 tablespoons red pepper flakes
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 loin of pork with 8 ribs, cleaned,
frenched, and trimmings reserved
Salt and pepper to taste

For the sauce:
Reserved pork trimmings
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 small onion, peeled and diced
1 small carrot, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1 tomato, chopped
1 spring oregano
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig parsley
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 tablespoons white wine
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 pint brown pork stock
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pepperoncini mix:
1 large onion, sliced
6 cloves garlic, peeled and
thinly sliced
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 ribs celery, cut on the bias
8 roasted tomatoes, julienned
8 pepperoncini peppers,
julienned, and the seeds of two
peppers reserved
Salt to taste

For the carrots:
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 pounds carrots, oblique cut
3 springs parsley, stemmed
and minced
Salt and pepper to taste

Coconut Milk Cake with Pineapple Thai Chili Sorbet (Serves 10)

directions

For the sorbet: Combine the sugar; water; chilies, lime juice, and zest in a pot and boil. Let the mixture steep until cool and strain. Roughly cut up the pineapple and boil with the syrup. Cool and puree. Strain again and set in an ice bath until chilled. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer's directions.

For the cake: Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour ten 4-ounce ramekin molds and set aside. Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs and vanilla extract. The mixture will break, but smooth out with continued mixing. Sift the dry ingredients together and add to the batter, alternating with the coconut milk in two additions. Fold in the white chocolate and toasted coconut. Transfer the batter into the ramekins and bake for until the cakes are done. Allow to cool and unmold.

For the tuiles: Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine the flour, chili, and sugar in a bowl. Melt the butter and corn syrup. Add to the flour mixture and corn syrup and mix until smooth. Chill to firm the dough, and spread the mixture into circles on a non-stick mat and bake until golden.

For the ganache: Bring the coconut milk to a boil and pour over the white chocolate. Gently whisk together. Chill to set.

For the broth: In a small saucepan, boil the water and sugar. Allow to cool. Combine the ingredients together and keep chilled.

For the fruit salad: In a small saucepan, boil the water and sugar. Allow to cool. Combine the all the ingredients together and keep chilled.

To assemble the cake: Cut the dome of the cake to flatten the bottom. Using a paring knife or a melon ball scoop, hollow out the bottom of the cake, keeping the removed section intact. Fill the cavity with some ganache and conceal the opening using the removed section of the cake. Dust with confectioners' sugar.

To serve: Fill a 3-inch ring mold with the fruit salad. Cover with a round tuile and top with a filled cake. Place a scoop of sorbet on top and garnish with a coconut chip. Spoon the broth around and dot with coconut milk drops for decoration.

Riesling, Cordon Cut

Mount Horrocks

Clare Valley, Australia 1999

ingredients


For the sorbet:
8 ounces granulated sugar
1 cup water
2 small red Thai chilies
Zest and juice of 1/2 lime
1/2 pineapple peeled

For the cake:
Softened butter and flour as needed
6 ounces unsalted butter
8 ounces granulated sugar
3 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup cake flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
5 ounces unsweetened coconut milk
4 ounces white chocolate, melted at room temperature
5 ounces toasted coconut flakes
Confectioners' sugar for dusting

For the tuile:
2 ounces all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon dried ground Thai chili peppers
2 ounces granulated sugar
2 ounces unsalted butter
3 ounces corn syrup

For the coconut ganache:
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk
16 ounces white chocolate, chopped finely

For the mango-coconut milk broth:
2 tablespoons water
1 ounce granulated sugar
2 cups mango puree
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

For the fruit salad:
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 mango, diced
1/2 pineapple, diced
2 tablespoons mango puree

For the garnish:
Unsweetened coconut milk
Coconut chips