Between the sheets.

"MEAT. BREAD. AND SAUCE. MMM. THAT SOUNDS GOOD."

This late-night line sound familiar? To adoring fans of television's Saturday Night Live and the 'Delicious Dish,' it will. The skit that parodies National Public Radio's (NPR) "probing questions, revelatory interviews, and unusual insights" has made several ingredients memorable in a ludicrous light. But we hope the humorists who created the spoof will forgive us for altering it ever so slightly to serve our own selfish purposes:

'Meat. Sauce. Cheese. And pasta.' The building blocks of lasagna.

In The Classic Italian Cookbook, Marcella Hazan writes, "Properly-made lasagna consists of several layers of delicate, nearly-weightless pasta spaced by layers of savory, but not overbearing filling made of meat, artichokes or mushrooms."

We took Hazan's words to task, imploring a friendly inquiry. Is there really a proper way to make lasagna? We handed that question to three chefs to individually decode.

'Lasagna is the topic for our winter feature,' we innocently said. And our three chefs dished it right back at us with reactions like:

      "Are you joking?"
      "How many different ways can you make lasagna?"
      "You're trying to make this hard, aren't you?"

But we knew we were being hustled. Eric Greenspan of Patina tossed a BLT Lasagna (you read correctly--bacon, lettuce and tomato) our way! DB Bistro Moderne's Jean-Francois Bruel built an Oxtail Terrine. And at JiRaffe in Los Angeles, we were sold on Raphael Lunetta's King Crab Lasagna Roll.

(My stomach is really beginning to growl.)

WHO BROUGHT THE LASAGNA?

Most of us presume the popular pasta dish came from Italy. Rather, it's been noted that lasagna originated, perhaps, in Ancient Greece, where it is believed the 'laganon,' a flat cake, was popular. This unusual cake ended up in the hands of the Romans where it was cut into strips and renamed, 'lagani.'

According to Alan Davidson, "Cicero (1st Century AD) was known to have been particularly fond of lagani. So was the Roman poet Horace, of the same century. He cited them as an example of simple peasant food while boasting of his simple way of life. 'Then I go home to a dish of leeks, chickpeas and lagani,' (Satires 1.6)"

Stories of Marco Polo and lasagna made with flour ground from breadfruit have found their way into the quest for lasagna's origin.

WHEN IN ITALY, DO AS THE ITALIANS DO

When speaking of lasagna, defer to its many denominations. The word varies from region to region, as do the ingredients in the dish. In Naples, it goes by the name 'laganelle'. In Campania, they say 'lagane'. In Calabria, order the 'laganedde'. And in Basilicata, the peninsular region boxed among Puglia to the North, Campania to the West and Calabria to the South, lasagna is simply referred to as 'laane'.

Hard to keep the saucy synonymy straight. She's a slippery little noodle.

The lasagna most familiar to those in the United States is the classic Bolognese, said to have roots in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. The dish, a popular item on trattoria menus and at family meal, consists of a thick, full-bodied ragu, oftentimes made with meat. It's safe to assume the majority of Americans are probably not as familiar with the more traditional lasagna, "vincisgrassi," from the Marche region. Authors Antonio and Pricilla Carluccio write that originally it was made with "testicles, liver and cockerel giblets."

Not exactly something you'd take to the company potluck unless you are trying to get fired.

The Marche Region Tourist Department says modern vincisgrassi is layered with bechamel sauce, and four varieties of meat, but no tomatoes. (Don't worry if your butcher has run out of testicles, any meat will do.) The dish is named for Prince Alfred zu Windischgratz, the commander of the Austrian forces occupying Ancona in 1799.

In Liguria, you'd be hard pressed to find lasagna made without pesto, otherwise called "alla genovese" because it was founded in the capital, Genoa. Pesto has always been a predominant condiment for pasta in Liguria. Now well known, the mixture of olive oil enriched with pine nuts and basil, is used everywhere and in everything.

It is Southern Italy, however, that may boast the heartiest of lasagnas. Marcella Hazan says that the version here "overflows with sausages, meatballs, ricotta, mozzarella, hard-boiled eggs and whatever-else one may want to throw in." (They say there are no rules of when and how to drink grappa. This may be just the occasion to indulge as was intended--as an after-dinner digestif.)

It seems there is no answer to our question of proper technique for layered lasagna construction. Modern imagination and regional variety leaves us with this abbreviated rationale: Lasagna, whatever way you layer it, is a "Delicious Dish."

"WHEN I WAS SEVEN OR EIGHT YEARS OLD, I WAS ALLOWED to make one or two things in the kitchen with Mom. We grew all our own vegetables on a small farm and raised animals, milked cows ..." Bruel trails off, thinking fondly about his youth near Lyon, France.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

"I sold vegetables (chives, thyme, parsley) at the market in Saint-Etienne to make some money for myself."

From the outside, New York's City Club Hotel is as contemporary as they come. Head inside DB Bistro Moderne and be positively puzzled. The name itself is enlightening. Is this a French bistro under modish guise?

Those well-known initials are a giveaway. This is something wonderfully different. And with Jean-Francois Bruel at the helm, you're in capable hands. The young protege of Chef Daniel Boulud (those famous food initials ring a bell now?) has trained under the best French master chefs including Georges Blanc, Paul Haeberlin and Michel Guerard. Impressive tutelage.

Just as influential as those big names are Bruel's early experiences.

"When I was 12, I worked for my cousin in the pastry shop two or three times a week. I was sick from chocolate the first night without even trying it. Whenever cocoa is more than 50%, I can't take it! I decided right then to forget about pastry and concentrate on food."

Lucky for patrons of DB, and for pastry chef Cristina Aliberti, who takes the reigns in the dessert department. Bruel says Cristina's pastry work is a nice companion to his food. "We both follow the seasons. Everything has to balance. And the last impression is dessert."

How does the native Frenchman incorporate Americana into French cuisine?

"We keep the Daniel concept, and lighten classic French techniques. We do simple, colorful dishes with as much flavor as possible." "... No crazy garnishes." He adds smiling, "They are making chicken sushi in L.A.--horrible."

Bruel believes in the menu. "Whenever you put something on the menu, you have to think about what the customer wants." Cristina weighs in on the subject as well calling Daniel, "the anti-trend." "Daniel takes classics and makes them modern and interesting. In that way he sets the trend."

So where do all those ideas come from--the ones put to practice and praised by reviewers? For Jean-Francois, "Ideas just come. From mistakes sometimes. I try to go to France as much as I can. Sometimes my ideas come from the things my Mom cooked when I was young. I think of my Mom's lasagna (for instance) and I ask, 'How can I make it better?' Using better products and new techniques--I can make something really beautiful!"

We wanted to know what else Jean-Francois would want to do that he hasn't done before.

Enthusiastic, with the excitement and smile of a boy, he quickly responds, "I'd like to open my own restaurant!"

And where might that restaurant be, we wondered aloud?

"Wherever--France would be nice ..."

And if that didn't work?

"I'd be a farmer."

But, of course.

ERIC GREENSPAN OF L.A.'S NOTORIOUSLY-TRYING KITCHEN, Patina, has a story and a word for everything. Don't believe us? Then ask him what a "power-babble" or a "fun factory" is.

"While going to school at Berkeley, I took a job as a dishwasher at Cafe Mediterraneo on Telegraph Avenue. I happened to look in the kitchen--it seemed like everyone was having so much fun! I turned to my boss and said, 'Do you need any help in there?' He asked 'if I knew how to cook.' So, I walked over to the microwave and pushed 'Start'."

Greenspan was hired.

"After two weeks there, I was like the prep cook and there was this speed-freak Creole-guy who used to call me 'college boy' velling, 'He can't even crack an egg in one hand!' Then, for whatever reason, he got all pissed off and walked out of the restaurant. (We did about 400 covers on Sunday mornings.) Then, his lead cook walked out with him and left me standing there. So my boss asks me, 'Could I handle it alone?' I answered, 'Why not?' So I flipped eggs like god, breaking four eggs at a time, making hollandaise to-order (because I didn't know it could be made ahead of time) ..."

"So I eventually graduated from business school, moved to France, and went to the Le Cordon Bleu. Of course, I didn't speak a word of French."

Eric returned to the United States to work in Alain Ducasse's kitchen, as well as the Bouley Bakery in New York. He worked for a couple months before taking a four-week "summer break" working in Spain.

"At El Bulli in Spain I learned foams and gelatins ... stuff like that. It was a cool juxtaposition of the classic restraints. Great techniques, beautiful food, but just plain insane! I learned what perfection was--like a perfectly-turned artichoke ..."

"It was like going from a quiet simple task to crazy. Like all of a sudden I'm in a room doing 1700 plates, like 40 people doing a power-babble! There are eight different languages being spoken and no one knows what the Hell's going on! Hot gelatins here, foams and frozen foie gras powder there! And it's like, 'Wow!'"

"So I was in New York, and one day I get a call from Joachim Splichal asking me to help out. He was doing a Relais & Chateaux dinner at Daniel. This was on a Thursday and I was moving back to L.A. on Friday."

He said 'Do you need a job in L.A.?'

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

I said, 'No, I'm going to work for David Myers at L'Ermitage.'

He said, 'Call me anyway when you get into town.'

I was like, 'alright, cool'.

But the chef who I originally worked with at Patina wasn't there anymore so I didn't have much of an interest in going back. I was set on working with David.

'So, then I get a call from the chef I had originally worked with at Patina! He was like 'Did you call Joachim?'

I said, 'No.'

He said, 'You should, because I'm going to be working at Patina again.'

I said, 'I'll call him right now.'

So, I call Joachim and he asks me, 'What do want to do, Eric?'

I said, 'I want to be the sous chef.'

He said, 'no problem.'

"So now I'm the chef here. It's been a hoot--a wild ride. Joachim really trusts me with the food and we're getting good feedback from the customers. I remember what it was like to have ideas in your head and not be able to express them. We have a really fun kitchen. Customers complain because they hear us laughing and singing from the dining room. But I say, 'screw it!' You've gotta' have a good time."

"During service, it's quiet and focused, but during prep time, we have the radio on, sing, dance and have a good time. Cooking to me is about having fun. Remember, I started at a small cafe. You aren't getting paid anything, so you should at least be able to enjoy it. I don't want to work in an environment where everyone is all serious. It's like, 'COME ON, it's cooking!' We're not rocket scientists. So that's it, that's me in a nutshell."

Whew. That's some nutshell, Eric.

WHEN RAPHAEL LUNETTA SPEAKS, HE OFTEN SAYS, "WE."

The other 'he' in that equation is best friend, Josiah Citrin. The two chefs, who opened Santa Monica's JiRaffe together, could be brothers. They've certainly grown up like siblings, just without the rivalry.

There are parallels in each of their lives. Both are of French descent. Both were introduced to unusually good food early on. As Raphael put it, "We didn't grow up on white bread and cheddar cheese." (Unless maybe the bread was a baguette and the cheese, Camembert?) Raphael and Josiah also shared the same passion--surfing. Together they became part of the Southern California surfing scene, spending all day in the water, as long as the surf was good.

Raphael says all the paddling, waiting and riding manufactures one thing: Hunger. And having been raised on French cuisine, mac-and-cheese binges wouldn't cut it. To solve the dilemma, the two went to work in restaurants, bussing tables. We wondered if maybe this rush to work wasn't to support their surfing addiction?

Raphael easily admits to this. "We spent all morning in the water, then went to work in the afternoon, tasting whatever was there. It was a fulfilling lifestyle at the time." He also easily pays tribute to Citrin who inspired Raphael to follow him into a culinary career.

As to which occupation Raphael took more seriously, surfing or cooking, at first, it may seem the former won out. "When I was 19, I moved to Hawaii to surf professionally." He even had a sponsor, O'Neil wetsuits. But life on the islands was limiting. Raphael left to go to the country of his heritage--France. Certainly not some-place where life was all about which way the waves were breaking.

When he came back to the warm southern Pacific waters of Santa Monica, Raphael used his acquired skills to cook all around L.A., including a stint with Joachim Splichal at Patina. He recalls this time as a "great experience in the kitchen--the food, simple, but disciplined, and the structure intense."

"Cooks went to Patina to make it for a year without getting fired. At that time it was the hardest restaurant in this city to work." While Raphael made it through the year at Patina, Josiah cooked for another Los Angeles legend--Wolfgang Puck.

The two eventually opened the restaurant Jackson's in Hollywood. "It was the first time we were getting reviewed by major media. It was good for us."

In 1996 the pair opened JiRaffe until Josiah departed. The last 4-12 years have been a solo endeavor for Raphael. The food has evolved, going from more classic, three-star French to simple, more approachable dishes. He calls what he's doing at JiRaffe, "sophisticated, intimate, American-French."

Raphael's life has certainly evolved. But will he and Josiah's professional lives intersect again? Seems that way. Their new joint venture is Lemon Moon Cafe, fashioned on simplicity, serving only breakfast and lunch. And where else would the coffeehouse be but, "on the beach"? It sounds like just the thing for them.

"For me, the perfect day is good surf and a good meal. Now that I have a family, that's changed ... a little. What makes me happy is staying strong, healthy and finding a balance in life."

Raphael has certainly found himself in that special place where the waves break; when rhythm, timing and flow come together--he's found 'the zone.'

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Seafood Fleischnacke (Serves 6)

jean francois BRUEL

directions

For the sauce: Place a large saucepan over medium heat and add oil. Add shallots, leek and celery and cook until tender. Add fish bones and cook for five minutes while stirring. Add wine and enough water to cover the bones; bring to a boil. Add thyme, parsley and peppercorns and salt to taste. Reduce heat to a simmer and using a colander, cook off the shrimp, mussels and cockles in stock. Remove meat from shells and set aside, keeping warm. Simmer stock for 20 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth. Discard solids. Bring stock to a simmer and reduce to 1/2 cup. Stir in heavy cream and continue cooking for five minutes. Add butter and using a hand-held immersion blender; mix sauce until well blended. Add salt and pepper. To finish, add lemon juice, chives, tomatoes, shrimp, mussels and cockles.

For the pasta: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, mix flour, semolina flour and salt. Add eggs, oil and water until dough comes together. Transfer to a floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about five minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour. Remove dough from refrigerator and roll through a pasta machine until 1/16-inch thick. Cut dough into two 9X18-inch rectangles and transfer to the parchment-lined sheet pans. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Reserve for the roulade.

For the fish mousse: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, add the fillets and salt. Freeze for 30 minutes. Remove bowl from freezer and process until pasty. Add egg whites and mix until combined. Add one cup heavy cream, pepper and nutmeg. Mix until smooth making sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Push mixture through a tamis. Whisk remaining heavy cream to soft peaks and fold into the fish mixture along with the vegetables and chives. Reserve for the roulade.

To assemble the roulade: Remove lasagna sheets from refrigerator. Place plastic wrap on a flat work surface and lay one lasagna sheet on top with the shorter side facing you. Evenly spread half of the mousse over the dough. Roll up the pasta dough tightly, using the plastic wrap as a guide. The roulade should be about 2-inches in diameter. Repeat with the remaining pasta sheet and filling. Tightly wrap with plastic. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and lower the heat to a simmer. Add roulades and cook until mousse and pasta are cooked through, about 35 minutes. Remove rolls from water and cool. Once cool remove plastic wrap and cut rolls into 1/2-inch slices.

For the dish: In a large saute pan over medium heat, add butter. Add roulade slices to pan and saute until golden brown. Repeat with remaining slices adding butter to the pan as needed.

To serve: Place three slices of roulade on each plate and spoon sauce over the slices. Garnish with chervil sprigs.

ingredients

For the sauce:

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 shallots, peeled and sliced

1/2 leek, chopped

1/2 stalk celery, chopped

1 pound white fish bones

1/4 cup white wine

1 sprig thyme

5 sprigs parsley

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/2 pound large shrimp

1/2 pound mussels

1/2 pound New Zealand cockles

3 tablespoons heavy cream

1/4 cup unsalted butter

Juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons finely chopped chives

2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

Salt and white pepper

For the pasta:

2 1/4 ounces all-purpose flour

1/2 ounce semolina flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 egg

1/2 tablespoon olive oil

For the fish mousse:

1 1-pound halibut fillet, chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 egg whites

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

Pinch grated nutmeg

1 carrot, peeled, chopped and blanched

1 parsnip, peeled, chopped and blanched

3 tablespoons finely chopped chives

White pepper

For the dish:

Unsalted butter as needed

For the garnish:

Chervil sprigs

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Open-Face Lobster Lasagna with Celery Root Puree (Serves 4)

jean francois BRUEL

directions

For the celery root puree: In a large saucepan, cook butter until golden brown. Add garlic, thyme and heavy cream. Salt and pepper to taste. Remove pan from heat and infuse cream for five minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and discard solids. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add celery root and cook for eight minutes. Transfer to a food processor fitted with a metal blade and slowly add cream. Puree until smooth and creamy. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

For the dish: Cut lobsters in half; remove coral and reserve. Cook lobsters in a large pot of boiling water for seven minutes. Drain and remove meat from shells. Devein tails and reserve. Reserve claws and knuckle meat. Roughly chop shells and reserve.

For the lobster sauce: In a large saucepan over high heat, add oil. Add lobster shells and cook for five minutes. Reduce heat to medium and add carrot, onion, celery, fennel, gingerroot, garlic, thyme, tarragon and bay leaf. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cook until onion turns translucent. Stir in tomato paste and cook for three minutes. Add tomatoes and cognac; flambe. Add white wine when flame dies out and reduce by half. Add chicken stock, bring to a boil and simmer until liquid is reduced by half. Discard lobster carcasses, garlic, thyme and bay leaf. In a bowl whisk together lobster coral and heavy cream. Combine the mixtures and cook until the sauce turns bright orange. Using a blender, puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer 1 1/2 cups of lobster sauce to a saucepan. To finish, add lobster tails and claws. Add creme fraiche to the remaining lobster sauce and using a hand-held immersion blender, mix sauce until foamy.

For the chestnuts: In a large saute pan, cook butter until golden brown. Add chestnuts and cook until tender. Add cognac and flambe. When flames subside, add chicken stock and remaining butter. Reduce heat to low and cook while basting chestnuts for 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

For the pasta: Place flour on work surface and make a well. Add egg yolk, egg, oil and salt. Mix by hand and continue kneading until smooth. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for two hours. Remove from the refrigerator and roll it through a pasta machine until thin enough to see through. Using a 3-inch round cutter, cut out eight circles and cook in boiling salted water for three minutes. Set in an ice bath until chilled, remove and set aside.

For the lasagna coating: Preheat broiler. In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, mix lobster meat until pasty. Add butter and mix until combined. Add bread crumbs, parsley, garlic, gingerroot and cayenne. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Roll mixture out between two pieces of parchment into a 1/16-inch thick rectangle. Refrigerate until firm. Remove from refrigerator and use a 3 1/2-inch round cutter to cut out four circles from coating. Place four pasta rounds on a sheet tray and top each with the ravioli coating; broil until crust turns golden brown.

For the dish: Preheat broiler. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt butter and add water, while whisking constantly. Add remaining four rounds, celery and Parmesan cheese. Toss until heated through. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Place celery root puree into the center of each plate. Top with a pasta round and put one-half of a lobster tail and three pieces of celery and chestnuts over the pasta. Put the crusted pasta round on top. Spoon the frothed lobster sauce around the plate. Garnish with lobster claws, tarragon leaves and celery heart leaves.

ingredients

For the celery root puree:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed

1 sprig thyme

1 cup heavy cream

2 pounds celery root, peeled and chopped

Salt and pepper

For the dish:

2 1 1/2-pound lobsters

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons water

Reserved pasta rounds

3 ribs celery, cut into 2-inch pieces and blanched

1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese

For the lobster sauce:

1 tablespoon olive oil

Reserved lobster shells

1/2 carrot, peeled and chopped

1/2 onion, peeled and chopped

1 rib celery, chopped

1/4 cup chopped fennel

1-inch gingerroot, peeled and finely chopped

1/2 head garlic, split

1 sprig thyme

1 sprig tarragon

1 bay leaf

1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste

3 plum tomatoes, quartered

1 tablespoon cognac

1/2 cup white wine

4 cups chicken stock

Reserved lobster coral

1/2 cup heavy cream

Reserved lobster tails and claws

1 tablespoon creme fraiche

Salt and pepper

For the chestnuts:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 pound fresh chestnuts, peeled

1 tablespoon Cognac

1/4 cup chicken stock

Salt and pepper

For the pasta dough:

1 cup soft wheat flour

1 egg yolk

1 egg

1/2 teaspoon olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

All purpose flour as needed

For the lasagna coating:

Reserved lobster knuckle meat

1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 1/2 tablespoons bread crumbs

1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped

1/4-inch gingerroot, peeled and finely chopped

Pinch of cayenne

Salt and white pepper

For the garnish:

Tarragon leaves as needed

Celery heart leaves as needed

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Chicken, Porcini and White Truffle Lasagna (Serves 6)

jean francois BRUEL

directions

For the lasagna dough: In an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook add flour, semolina flour, salt, eggs, oil and water and mix until dough comes together. Transfer to a floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about five minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour. Remove dough from refrigerator and roll through a pasta machine to 1/16-inch thick. Cut into 12-inch long sheets. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender. Set in an ice bath until chilled. Drain and toss noodles with olive oil.

For the bechamel: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Whisk in flour and cook, stirring constantly until it bubbles lightly, about 10 minutes. While stirring, slowly whisk in milk and bring to a boil. Add heavy cream, truffle oil and nutmeg. Salt and pepper to taste. Reduce heat and cook for two more minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and cover with plastic wrap, pressing wrap against sauce.

For the chicken: Place a large pot of water over high heat and add all ingredients and salt to taste. Bring to a boil; skim fat from surface. Reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve; reserve broth for later use. Transfer the chicken legs to a plate and discard solids. Set aside chicken legs to cool. When cool enough to handle, shred meat from legs and set aside, keeping warm.

For the mushrooms: In a large saute pan over medium-high heat, add oil. Add mushrooms, garlic and thyme; cook until mushrooms turn golden brown. Discard garlic and thyme; season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

For the tomato confit: Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and brush with olive oil. Sprinkle oil with salt and pepper. Distribute half of the garlic, basil, thyme and bay leaf over oil. Lay tomato halves cut side down on foil, brushing lightly with olive oil and add salt, pepper and sugar to taste. Distribute remaining garlic, basil, thyme and bay leaf over tomatoes. Bake tomatoes for 2 1/2 hours; turning over halfway through. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature.

To assemble the lasagna: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter the inside of a deep 12X8-inch ovenproof casserole. Place a layer of noodles on the bottom of the casserole, overlapping the noodles. Sprinkle noodles with white truffle slices and white truffle oil. Spread a layer of bechamel over truffles and layer with chicken, mushrooms, tomato confit, fontina cheese and another layer of sauce. Repeat the layering process; finishing with a layer of lasagna and sauce. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Place the lasagna pan into a hot water bath. Place in oven and bake until cheese turns golden brown, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle top with white truffle oil. Garnish with reserved tomato confit, porcini mushroom slices and chervil.

ingredients

For the lasagna dough:

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/3 cup semolina flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 eggs

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons water

For the bechamel:

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 quart milk

2/3 cup heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon white truffle oil

Pinch grated nutmeg

Salt and white pepper

For the chicken:

2 pounds chicken legs

1 onion, peeled and quartered

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

1 rib celery, chopped

1 leek, chopped

1 clove garlic, peeled

1 bay leaf

5 sprigs parsley

1/2 teaspoon white peppercorns

2 quarts water

Salt

For the mushrooms:

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 pounds porcini mushrooms, chopped

1 clove garlic, peeled

1 sprig thyme

Salt and pepper

For the tomato confit:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

5 basil leaves, torn

2 sprigs thyme, stemmed

2 bay leaves, crushed

10 plum tomatoes, peeled, halved and seeded

Sugar, salt and pepper

To assemble the lasagna:

Butter as needed

1 white truffle, thinly sliced

White truffle oil to taste

1/2 pound fontina cheese, grated

3/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

For the garnish:

White truffle oil as needed

Reserved tomato confit

2 porcini mushrooms, thinly sliced and sauteed

Chervil sprigs

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Chilled Oxtail Terrine with Foie Gras (Makes 10 slices)

jean francois BRUEL

directions

For the oxtail: Season oxtail with salt and pepper. In a medium saucepan, combine oxtail, celery, carrots, onion, parsley, thyme, bay leaves, garlic and red wine. Marinate overnight and refrigerate. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Remove oxtail from marinade; strain and reserve marinade and vegetables. Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat and add 1/4 cup olive oil. Brown oxtail on all sides; remove from pan and set aside, keeping warm. Remove excess fat from pot. Add the remaining oil and strained vegetables. Brown vegetables and add strained marinade; reduce until almost dry. Add oxtail and stock. Bring to a boil, cover the pan and braise in oven until tender, about three hours. Remove from oven; when meat is cool enough to handle, shred from bones and set aside. Strain braising liquid through a fine mesh sieve and reduce to 1 1/2 cups and set aside keeping warm. Discard solids.

For the lasagna dough: In an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, add flour, semolina flour and salt. Add eggs, oil and water and mix. Transfer to a floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about five minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for one hour. Remove dough from refrigerator and roll through a pasta machine until 1/16-inch thick. Cut into 12-inch long sheets. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender. Set in an ice bath until chilled. Drain and toss noodles with olive oil.

For the cheese filling: In a bowl, add all of the ingredients. Mix to combine and season with salt and pepper. Using two pieces of plastic wrap, shape the cheese mixture into a 10X4-inch rectangle and refrigerate.

To assemble the terrine: Lightly brush the inside of a 10X4X3-inch terrine mold with olive oil. Line inside of terrine with plastic wrap and lightly brush with olive oil, making sure there are no air pockets. Place the braising liquid in a saucepan over medium heat. Mix in black truffle and gelatin. Toss three-quarters cup of braising liquid with the oxtail meat and 1/4 cup with vegetables. Reserve remaining braising liquid for assembly of terrine. Place a layer of lasagna noodles over the bottom and up the four sides of the terrine, allowing noodles to overlap and hang over the edges. Using one-third of oxtail meat, layer the bottom of the terrine. Place a layer of foie gras, carrot and celery root, alternating layers. Gently press foie gras and vegetables into the meat and season with salt and pepper. Pour about three tablespoons of the reserved braising liquid over vegetables and meat. Add a layer of lasagna noodles and place goat cheese on top. Repeat process. Finish by folding the overhanging pasta on top and level terrine with an additional layer of pasta. Cover the top with the overhanging plastic and refrigerate overnight.

For the salad: In a small saucepan combine two tablespoons of black truffle juice and black truffles. Place over medium heat until almost all of the liquid in the pan has evaporated. Add the stock and reduce down to two tablespoons. Let cool to room temperature and whisk in remaining black truffle juice, grapeseed oil, sherry vinegar, hazelnut oil, walnut oil and black truffle oil; season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss frisee with vinaigrette.

To serve: Unmold terrine and cut into 1/2-inch thick slices and remove plastic wrap from each slice. Place on a plate and serve with salad. Garnish plate with Fleur de Sel, cracked white pepper and black truffle.

ingredients

For the oxtail:

3 pounds oxtail, cut into 3-inch pieces

3 ribs celery, peeled and chopped

2 carrots, peeled and chopped

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 bunch parsley, stemmed

3 sprigs thyme

2 bay leaves

1 head garlic, halved

1 1/2 bottles red wine

1/2 cup olive oil

3 quarts beef stock

Salt and pepper

For the lasagna dough:

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/3 cup semolina flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 eggs

3/4 tablespoon water

1 tablespoon olive oil

For the cheese filling:

4 ounces goat cheese, softened

2 teaspoons mascarpone cheese

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped chives

1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped

Salt and pepper

For the terrine:

Olive oil as needed

Reserved braising liquid

2 teaspoons chopped black truffle

2 gelatin leaves, softened in cool water

1/2 pound foie gras terrine, cut into 1/4 X 1/4-inch thick sticks

4 carrots, peeled, cut into 1/4-by 1/4-inch-thick sticks and blanched

2 celery roots, peeled, cut into 1/4-by 1/4-inch-thick sticks and blanched

Salt and pepper

For the salad:

3 tablespoons black truffle juice

2 tablespoons chopped black truffle

1 cup beef stock

3/4 cup grapeseed oil

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 tablespoon hazelnut oil

1 tablespoon walnut oil

1 teaspoon black truffle oil

2 heads frisee, white and yellow parts only

Salt and pepper

For the garnish:

Fleur de Sel

Cracked white pepper

Black truffle, thinly sliced

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Winter Vegetable Lasagna (Serves 6)

jean francois BRUEL

directions

For the potato and carrot "pasta": Thinly slice potatoes lengthwise using a mandoline making 36 slices and place into a bowl of cold water. Thinly slice carrots lengthwise using a mandoline and place into a separate bowl of cold water. Place half of the potato slices onto an oiled parchment-lined sheet pan. Place a single layer of carrot slices over each potato. Top with remaining potato slices and press down to seal. Cut each pasta into 3X4-inch rectangles. Discard the scraps. Add salt and pepper to taste. Steam pasta for two minutes. Arrange in a single layer; cover with an oiled piece of parchment and set aside.

For the duxelle: In a large saute pan, melt butter. Add mush-rooms and cook until almost dry. Add shallot and garlic. Cook for three more minutes. Transfer mushrooms to a bowl and mix in the parsley. Finely chop mushrooms and season with salt and pepper to taste.

For the artichoke puree: In a medium saucepan, heat oil. Add shallot and artichoke hearts and cook until tender. Add bouquet garni and chicken stock; add salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until liquid reduces by half. Using a slotted spoon, transfer artichokes to a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Pulse artichokes while adding some poaching liquid and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Add salt and pepper to taste.

For the sauteed spinach: In a large saute pan over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add spinach and garlic. Salt and pepper to taste. Cook until tender. Discard garlic and drain off any remaining liquid. Set aside.

For the tomato confit: Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and brush about one tablespoon of olive oil over the pan. Sprinkle the oil with salt and pepper. Distribute half of the garlic, basil, thyme and bay leaf over the oil. Lay tomato halves cut side down on the pan. Brush the tops of the tomatoes lightly with olive oil and season with salt, pepper and sugar. Distribute remaining garlic, basil, thyme and bay leaf over the tomatoes. Bake tomatoes for 2 1/2 hours; turn over halfway through. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature.

For the topping: In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

For the mushroom sauce: In a large saute pan over medium-high heat, add oil. Add mushrooms and shallots and cook until almost dry. Add garlic, thyme, peppercorns, sherry and white wine. Cook until reduced by two-thirds. Add just enough water to cover mushrooms, reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes. Strain mixture through a fine mesh sieve. Discard solids. Place strained liquid over high heat and reduce to 1/2 cup. Whisk in creme fraiche, butter and oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To assemble the lasagna: Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Lightly grease a baking sheet and place six 4 1/2 X 3-inch buttered rectangular molds on the baking sheet. Put a layer of "pasta" on the bottom of the molds and layer with one tablespoon of duxelle, one table-spoon of artichoke puree, spinach and tomato confit. Repeat the layering starting and ending with the pasta. Spread a thin layer of artichoke puree on the top layer of the pasta and sprinkle with the bread crumb topping. Bake until golden brown.

To serve: Run a knife around the sides of each mold and remove. Transfer lasagna pieces to dinner plates and spoon sauce around each.

ingredients

For the potato and carrot "pasta":

3 large Idaho potatoes, peeled

2 large carrots, peeled

Olive oil as needed

Salt and pepper

For the duxelle:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 pound mixed wild mushrooms

1 shallot, peeled and chopped

1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped flat leaf parsley

Salt and pepper

For the artichoke puree:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

10 large Globe artichoke hearts

1 bouquet garni

2 1/2 cups chicken stock

Salt and pepper

For the sauteed spinach:

1 1/2 teaspoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 pounds spinach, stemmed

2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

Salt and pepper

For the tomato confit:

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

5 basil leaves, torn

2 sprigs thyme, stemmed

1 bay leaf, broken

10 plum tomatoes, peeled, halved and seeded

Sugar, salt and pepper

For the topping:

1/2 cup bread crumbs

1 tablespoon finely chopped chives

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped

1 sprig thyme, stemmed

Salt and pepper

For the mushroom sauce:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound white button mushrooms, sliced

3 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

2 sprigs thyme

6 whole black peppercorns

1 cup sherry

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons creme fraiche

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/2 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and pepper

To assemble the lasagna:

Unsalted butter, melted

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Crispy Cannoli with Ricotta Mousse (Serves 6)

jean francois BRUEL

For the cannoli dough: Preheat deep fryer to 350 degrees. In a mixing bowl with the dough hook, combine flour, sugar and baking powder. Beat in egg yolk, milk, rum and melted butter, mixing well after each addition. Mix dough until smooth. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Remove from refrigerator and bring to room temperature. Roll dough through a pasta machine to the thinnest setting. Place dough on a floured surface and cut into 2-inch squares. Cut strips of dough for garnish. Deep-fry squares and strips until golden brown and place blot with paper towels. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar.

For the chocolate chantilly: In a small saucepan bring cream, milk, orange zest and cinnamon sticks to a boil. Remove from heat and infuse overnight in refrigerator. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and bring mixture to a boil. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk, mix the chocolate and slowly pour in the cream mixture blending until incorporated. Refrigerate until set. Whisk and transfer to a pastry bag.

For the cookie: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In an electric mixer fitted with the whisk, add egg yolks and two ounces sugar. Mix until thick and pale. In a separate bowl, whisk together egg whites and remaining sugar to medium peaks. Fold nuts into the whipped egg yolks. Fold whipped egg whites and melted butter into the whipped egg yolks. Line a 12X16-inch jellyroll pan with parchment and spray with cooking spray. Spread batter into prepared pan and place in oven for 20 minutes. Transfer cake to a wire rack to cool. Cut cake into 2-inch squares. (This recipe will make more than needed.)

For the ricotta cream: In a bowl, whisk cheese, vanilla bean seeds and lemon zest until smooth. In a double boiler, whisk the yolks, sugar and gelatin for five minutes over medium heat. Remove and when cool fold in the ricotta mixture and whipped cream. Transfer to a pastry bag.

For the candied orange zest: In a small saucepan add zest, water and sugar and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and cool.

For the sauce anglaise: In a medium saucepan, bring cream, 1/2-ounce sugar and pistachio paste to a boil. In a bowl, whisk remaining sugar and egg yolks. Temper egg yolk mixture, adding one-third of hot cream mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered egg yolk mixture into hot cream and place over medium heat. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set in an ice bath until chilled.

To serve: Place a square of pistachio cake on the center of each plate. Layer with chocolate chantilly, ricotta cream and cannoli square. Garnish with candied orange peel and sauce anglaise.

ingredients

For the cannoli dough:

3 ounces all-purpose flour

1 ounce sugar

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1 egg yolk

1 tablespoon milk

2 ounces rum

1 ounce melted unsalted butter

Cooking oil as needed

Cinnamon sugar as needed

For the chocolate chantilly:

6 ounces heavy cream

5 ounces milk

Zest of 1 orange, finely grated

2 cinnamon sticks

4 ounces Valhrona Manjari chocolate, finely chopped

For the cookie:

5 eggs, separated

3 ounces sugar

4 ounces ground almonds

3 ounces ground pistachios

1 ounce melted unsalted butter

For the ricotta cream:

5 ounces ricotta

1/4 vanilla bean, split and scraped

Zest of 1 lemon, finely grated

2 egg yolks

2 ounces sugar

1 gelatin leaf, softened in cool water

6 ounces heavy cream, whipped

For the candied orange zest:

Zest of 1/2 orange, thinly sliced and blanched

8 ounces water

3 ounces sugar

For the sauce anglaise:

8 ounces heavy cream

2 ounces sugar

2 ounces pistachio paste

3 egg yolks

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Gateau with Chestnut Filling (Serves 6)

jean francois BRUEL

directions

For the ice cream: In a medium saucepan, combine milk, cream, two ounces sugar and vanilla bean; bring to a boil. Remove from heat, cover and infuse for 10 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and bring back to a boil. In a mixing bowl fitted with a whisk, combine remaining sugar and egg yolks and whisk until thick and pale. Gradually pour half of hot milk mixture over yolks while whisking constantly. Pour mixture back into saucepan and cook over medium heat stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until it coats the back of the spoon. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set in an ice bath until chilled. Add rum and freeze mixture in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the chestnut cream: In a bowl, combine ingredients. Mix well and set aside, keeping cool.

For the custard: In a bowl, combine ingredients. Whisk well and set aside, keeping cool.

For the crepe batter: In a bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, salt and egg yolks until combined. Whisk in two tablespoons of melted butter and milk. In a separate bowl, whisk egg whites to soft peaks and fold into the mixture. Place a 6-inch non-stick crepe pan over medium-high heat and add some of the remaining butter. Pour two tablespoons of crepe batter into the pan and swirl around until it covers pan. Cook crepe until it begins to bubble. Flip and cook for 20 more seconds. Transfer crepe to a flat work surface and repeat with remaining batter.

To assemble the gateau: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Butter the inside of a 6-inch cake pan; sprinkle with biscotti crumbs. Line a flat work surface with parchment and lay out a dozen crepes. Spread about one tablespoon of chestnut cream over each crepe and layer them into the prepared cake pan making sure to stack them directly on top of each other. Top with remaining crepe and press down firmly to remove air pockets. Pour custard over cake, making sure it comes up the sides of the pan and is level with cake. Cover pan with foil and bake for 35 minutes. Transfer cake to a rack and let cool to room temperature.

For the chestnut foam: Bring milk and vanilla bean to a boil and remove vanilla bean. Place chestnut puree into a blender and slowly add hot milk and rum, mixing until frothy.

To serve: Preheat broiler. Loosen the outside of the cake with a knife and invert onto a plate. Sprinkle top with sugar and broil until golden brown. Cut cake into six pieces, place on plates and spoon chestnut foam on plate. Garnish plate with candied chestnuts, crystallized vanilla bean and ice cream.

ingredients

For the ice cream:

8 ounces milk

8 ounces heavy cream

3 ounces sugar

1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

4 egg yolks

6 ounces rum

For the chestnut cream:

8 ounces chestnut puree

2 ounces milk

1 ounce rum

1/2 vanilla bean, seeds only

For the custard:

10 ounces heavy cream

4 egg yolks

3 ounces sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Zest of 1/2 lemon, finely grated

For the crepe batter:

3 ounces all-purpose flour

1/2 tablespoon sugar

Pinch of salt

2 eggs separated

3 ounces unsalted butter, melted

9 ounces milk

To assemble the gateau:

4 ounces yellow biscotti pieces

For the chestnut foam:

4 ounces milk

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

8 ounces chestnut puree

1 teaspoon rum

For the garnish:

Sugar as needed

Candied chestnuts in syrup

Crystallized vanilla bean

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Forest Mushroom Lasagna Splichal (Serves 6)

ERIC greenspan

directions

For the mushroom stock: In a large saucepan, add oil, mushrooms, celery, onion and salt and pepper. Cook until onion turns translucent. Add enough water to cover and simmer until the liquid resembles coffee. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Discard solids, set stock aside, keeping warm.

For the potato slices: In a medium saute pan add butter and heat to 275 degrees. Add potato rectangles and cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet tray and pat dry. Set aside.

For the mushroom puree: In a medium saute pan over medium heat, add oil. Add mushrooms and cook until tender. Add Madeira and reduce by three-quarters. Add cream and reduce by two-thirds. Place mixture in a blender and puree until smooth. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the mushroom ragout: In a saute pan over medium heat, add oil. Cook mushrooms for five minutes, add mushroom puree and mix to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and add chives.

For the mushroom emulsion: In a small saucepan over medium heat, add shallot and vinegar. Reduce by three-quarters and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Add mushroom stock and butter. Using a hand-held immersion blender, foam sauce. Finish with tomatoes and chives.

To assemble the lasagna: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. On a sheet pan, alternate layers of potato slices and mushroom ragout. Layer a potato slice, mushroom ragout, potato slice, mushroom ragout. Repeat this process and place in oven for five minutes.

To serve: Place the lasagna on the plate and top with the mushroom emulsion.

ingredients

For the mushroom stock:

1 ounce grapeseed oil

1 1/2 pounds white mushrooms, sliced

5 ribs celery, chopped

1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced

Water as needed

Salt and pepper

For the potato slices:

1 cup clarified butter

3 russet potatoes, cut into 12 3X2X1/8-inch rectangles

For the mushroom puree:

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil

1 1/2 pounds white mushrooms, thinly sliced

1/2 cup Madeira wine

1 cup heavy cream

Salt and pepper

For the mushroom ragout:

3 matsutake mushrooms, thinly sliced

8 ounces morel mushrooms, braised in mushroom stock and vermouth

4 ounces chanterelle mushrooms

1 tablespoon reserved mushroom puree

1/2 cup chopped chives

Salt and pepper

For the mushroom emulsion:

1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced

2 ounces sherry vinegar

1/2 cup mushroom stock, reduced by half

2 tablespoons butter

2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1/4 bunch chopped chives

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Chilled "Lasagna" of Lobster, Citrus and Caviar (Serves 6)

ERIC greenspan

directions

For the lobster sheets: In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add oil. Add lobster heads and saute until they turn bright red. Remove heads, reserving for later use, and reduce heat. Add onion, carrot, celery, fennel and spices and cook until onion turns translucent. Add tomato paste and cook until slightly caramelized. Add wine and return lobster heads back to pan. Reduce by two-thirds. Add enough water to cover shells and simmer for one hour. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a saucepan and reduce by half. This should yield 3 1/2 cups. Place in an ice bath. Once cool, whisk egg whites into stock and slowly bring to a simmer, stirring constantly until solids form and begin to rise to top to form a raft. Gently simmer for 15 minutes and break a hole into center of raft. Ladle broth through a cheesecloth-lined fine mesh sieve. This should yield three cups broth. Add gelatin into broth and pour onto a plastic wrap-lined sheet pan to 1/8-inch thick. Refrigerate to set. Once set, remove the sheet of lobster gelee by inverting the tray onto a cutting board. Cut into 18 3X2-inch rectangles.

For the lobster filling: In a bowl, combine ingredients and mix well. Set aside to cool.

For the marmalade: In a saucepan over medium heat, add fruit and cook until moisture has evaporated. Stir occasionally to prevent burning. Set aside to cool.

For the chive oil: In a blender, combine ingredients and blend well. Strain through a cheesecloth-lined fine mesh sieve.

For the sauce: In a bowl, add creme fraiche and gently fold in caviar.

To serve: On a dinner plate, layer lobster sheet, filling, lobster sheet, marmalade and lobster sheet. Top with the sauce and drizzle plate with chive oil.

ingredients

For the lobster sheets:

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 lobster heads, split

1/2 onion, peeled and chopped

1 large carrot, peeled and chopped

1 rib celery, chopped

1 bulb fennel, chopped

1 ounce assorted dry spices (star anise, coriander seed, fennel seed, black peppercorns)

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 1/2 cups white wine

2 egg whites

6 gelatin leaves, softened in cool water

For the lobster filling:

12 ounces lobster meat, chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

1/4 cup chopped fine herbs (chervil, tarragon, parsley, chives)

1 tablespoon creme fraiche

Juice of 1 lemon

For the citrus marmalade:

1 grapefruit, peeled and segmented

4 oranges, peeled and segmented

2 lemons, peeled and segmented

2 limes, peeled and segmented

For the chive oil:

1/4 bunch chives

1/4 cup grapeseed oil

For the sauce:

1 cup creme fraiche

3 ounces osetra caviar

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Lasagna B.L.T. (Serves 6)

ERIC greenspan

directions

For the tomato marmalade: Preheat oven to 275 degrees. Coat tomatoes in oil and place on a sheet pan. Sprinkle evenly with powdered sugar and place in oven. Cook for two hours. Remove from oven and chop. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the bacon: In a medium saute pan, add oil. Add shallots and cook until translucent. Add vinegar and reduce by three-quarters. Add bacon, bay leaves and veal stock. Simmer until tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Remove bacon from pan and cut into 1X1X 1/8-inch squares. Strain braising liquid, place over high heat and reduce to a glaze consistency. Coat bacon with glaze. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the romaine: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, add vinegar, stock, butter, bay leaf, thyme and peppercorns. Reduce by half, add lettuce, and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the potatoes: In a medium saute pan heat clarified butter to 275 degrees. Add the potatoes and cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from butter and dry on a paper towel-lined sheet pan. Salt and set aside, keeping warm.

For the tomato syrup: Preheat oven to 500 degrees. In a blender, puree whole tomatoes until smooth. Place halved tomatoes in a medium saucepan and roast until lightly colored. Add pureed tomatoes and simmer for one hour. In a saucepan over medium-high heat, combine sugar and water. Cook until sugar turns golden brown. Add vinegar and reduce to a syrup consistency. Strain roasted tomato juice through a fine mesh sieve and reduce to a syrup consistency. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the B.L.T.: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place bread between two buttered sheet pans, press down with a weight and place in the oven for 15 minutes. Place the sliced bacon between two sheet trays; press down with a weight and place in the oven for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside, keeping warm. In a medium saute pan over medium heat, render diced bacon. Add the frisee to pan and saute for two minutes.

To serve: On a dinner plate, place a slice of potato, braised bacon, romaine, tomato marmalade, bread, the green part of the frisee, sliced bacon, the yellow part of the frisee, diced bacon and tomatoes. Drizzle plate with tomato syrup and mayonnaise.

ingredients

For the tomato marmalade:

3 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and quartered

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Salt

For the bacon:

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced

1 1/2 cups Banyuls vinegar

1/2 pound bacon

5 bay leaves

2 cups veal stock

For the romaine:

1 cup Banyuls vinegar, reduced to 1/4 cup*

1/2 cup chicken stock

4 ounces butter

1 bay leaf

1 sprig thyme

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 heart of romaine, quartered

For the potatoes:

1 cup clarified butter

1 russet potato, thinly sliced into 6 3X2X 1/8-inch rectangles

Salt

For the tomato syrup:

5 Roma tomatoes

2 Roma tomatoes, halved

1/2 cup sugar

1 teaspoon water

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

For the B.L.T.:

2 tablespoons melted butter

1/4 loaf white Pullman, sliced into 6 3X2X 1/8-inch rectangles

6 thin slices bacon

1/4 pound bacon, diced

1 head frisee, green part only

For the garnish:

1 head frisee, yellow part only

1 tomato, diced

1/4 cup mayonnaise, diluted with water

* Banyuls vinegar, made from sweet grapes of the same name, is available through Cardullo's Gourmet Shoppe at [phone].

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Potato Moussaka with Lamb Shank (Serves 6)

ERIC greenspan

directions

For the lamb shank: Preheat oven to 225 degrees. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add oil. Add shanks and brown on all sides. Remove from skillet and add onion, carrots, thyme and bay leaf. Add salt and pepper. Cook until caramelized. Add vinegar and reduce until almost dry. Add wine and reduce by two-thirds. Add shanks back to pan and cover with veal stock. Bring to a simmer, place in oven and cook until meat is tender, about two hours. Separate meat from bones and reduce liquid to a thick sauce consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Return meat back to pan and set aside, keeping warm.

For the potato slices: In a medium saute pan over medium heat, add butter. Add the potato slices and cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet tray and pat dry. Salt to taste and set aside.

For the filling: Prepare a hot grill. Marinade eggplants with olive oil, garlic confit, and add thyme, salt and pepper. Place eggplant, skin-side down and cook until tender. Remove eggplants from grill, discard the thyme and with a spoon scoop out the flesh and place in a blender and puree until smooth. Pass mixture through a fine mesh sieve. Add onion and mint. Season with lemon juice to taste.

For the bechamel: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Add flour and mix to form a paste. Add cream and bring to a boil stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Remove from heat and whisk in yolk. Set aside, keeping warm.

To assemble the moussaka: Preheat oven to 375 degrees and turn on broiler. On a greased sheet tray, layer the potatoes, filling, piquillo pepper, meat and spinach. Repeat layering and finish with potatoes. Place in oven for seven minutes. Cover top with bechamel and brown under broiler.

To serve: Plate moussaka and drizzle with red pepper oil and lamb shank sauce.

ingredients

For the lamb shank:

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 pounds lamb shanks

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

1 thyme sprig

1 bay leaf

1 cup red wine vinegar

2 cups white wine

2 quarts brown veal stock

Salt and pepper

For the potato slices:

3 russet potatoes, cut into 18 3X2X1/8-inch rectangles

1 pound clarified butter

Salt

For the filling:

2 eggplants, cut in half lengthwise

3 ounces olive oil

1/4 cup garlic confit

8 sprigs thyme, stemmed

1 onion, peeled, chopped and sauteed to golden brown

1 sprig mint, stemmed and chopped

Lemon juice to taste

Salt and pepper

For the bechamel:

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup flour

3/4 cup cream

1 egg yolk

Salt and pepper

For the dish:

6 ounces piquillo peppers

4 cups baby spinach, sauteed

Red pepper oil

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Beef, Beet and Blue Cheese Lasagna (Serves 6)

ERIC greenspan

directions

For the short ribs: Preheat oven to 225 degrees. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add oil. Add short ribs and brown on all sides. Remove from pan and add carrots, onion, thyme and bay leaf. Cook until onion turns translucent and add vinegar. Reduce to almost dry and add wine. Reduce by two-thirds. Add stock and bring to a simmer. Add short ribs, cover and place in oven for two hours. Remove meat, strain braising liquid through a fine mesh sieve and place over medium-high heat. Reduce until consistency is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Shred the rib meat and set aside, keeping warm.

For the pasta: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, add eggs and flour; mix in milk until dough is formed. Transfer to a floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Wrap dough in plastic and refrigerate for two hours. Using a pasta machine, roll dough to thinnest setting on pasta machine. Cut into two 12X8-inch squares. Cook pasta in boiling salted water until tender. Set in an ice bath until chilled and transfer to a parchment-lined sheet tray. Blot with paper towels and set aside.

For the filling: In a bowl, combine egg and ricotta. Fold in beets and pistachios. Set aside.

For the blue cheese sauce: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Add flour and mix to form a paste. Add cream and bring to a boil stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Whisk in cheese and cover; set aside, keeping warm.

To assemble the lasagna: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a 12X8-inch greased baking pan with a layer of pasta. Layer with the filling, blue cheese sauce, pasta, shredded short ribs, beet tops, blue cheese sauce and pasta and cover. Bake in oven for 30 minutes. Remove cover and continue to cook until golden brown, about 15 minutes.

To serve: Place lasagna on a pool of sauce.

ingredients

For the short ribs:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 pounds prime beef short ribs, boneless

2 carrots, peeled and chopped

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 sprig thyme

1 bay leaf

1 cup red wine vinegar

2 cups red wine

2 quarts brown veal stock

Salt and pepper

For the pasta:

2 eggs

9 ounces durum flour

1 tablespoon milk

For the filling:

1 egg

6 ounces ricotta cheese

2 beets, roasted, peeled and chopped

2 ounces shelled pistachios, toasted

For the blue cheese sauce:

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup flour

6 ounces heavy cream

4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled

For the dish:

2 bunches beet tops, cleaned, sauteed and chopped

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

RELATED ARTICLE: Cherry and Apple Kugel (Serves 6)

ERIC greenspan

directions

For the pasta: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine eggs, flour and milk mixing until it comes together. Transfer to a floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for two hours. Using a pasta machine, roll the dough to the thinnest setting. Cut into three 8X12-inch squares. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until tender. Submerge in an ice bath and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Blot with a paper towel and set aside.

For the cheese filling: In a bowl, combine ingredients and whisk until smooth. Set aside.

For the apple filling: In a saute pan over medium heat, melt butter and add apples and honey. Cook until apples caramelize. Add fresh cherries. Set aside to cool.

For the apple emulsion: In a small saucepan over medium-high heat combine juice and honey and reduce by two-thirds. In a separate saucepan over low heat, combine cream and cinnamon and allow to steep. Strain cream through a fine-mesh sieve into juice and add butter. Foam the sauce with a hand-held immersion blender.

To assemble the kugel: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a buttered 8X12-inch baking pan, cover the bottom with a thin layer of cheese filling. Alternate layers of pasta, cheese and apple filling, adding a layer of dried cherries and almonds in the middle and end with cheese. Sprinkle sugar over the top, cover with foil and bake for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and remove the foil. Place in oven for 20 more minutes until golden brown. Let cool and cut into 4X4-inch squares.

To serve: Place kugel on a plate and garnish with the apple, yogurt and apple emulsion.

ingredients

For the pasta:

2 eggs

9 ounces durum flour

1 tablespoon milk

For the cheese filling:

1 cup creme fraiche

1 cup fromage blanc*

2 eggs

1 tablespoon honey

For the apple filling:

2 ounces butter

5 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and chopped

1 ounce honey

8 ounces fresh cherries, stemmed, pitted and quartered

For the apple emulsion:

1 quart apple juice

2 ounces butter

1 ounce honey

1 ounce heavy cream

1 cinnamon stick

For the kugel:

4 ounces dried cherries, marinated in cherry Manischewitz wine

6 ounces slivered toasted almonds Sugar as needed

For the garnish:

Granny Smith apple, finely chopped Plain yogurt as needed

* Available through Murray's Cheese Shop at 1 (888) MY-CHEEZ

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RELATED ARTICLE: King Crab and Artichoke Lasagna Roll (Serves 6)

raphael LUNETTA

directions

For the artichoke puree: In a large saucepan, add two tablespoons oil. Add onion and cook until translucent. Add carrots and celery and cook for five minutes. Add wine and reduce by half. Place artichoke hearts in pan. Add three tablespoons lemon juice, water, bay leaf, thyme and one tablespoon oil. Bring to a simmer and cook artichokes until tender. Remove from heat and cool. Transfer to a food processor fitted with the metal blade and blend until pureed. Add remaining oil and lemon juice; season with salt and pepper to taste. Fold onions, carrots and celery into artichoke puree; set aside.

For the mushroom sauce: In a large saucepan, combine water and mushrooms. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Transfer to a food processor fitted with the metal blade and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and season with salt and pepper to taste. Using a hand-held immersion blender, gradually add butter and mix until frothy. Discard solids.

To assemble the lasagna: Lay a sheet of pasta on a flat work surface and spread with a thin layer of artichoke puree. Sprinkle with shredded crab. Beginning with the short end, layer with a tomato, three asparagus, and two more tomatoes. Roll lasagna noodle into a tight cylinder. Tie with a chive and repeat process five more times.

To serve: In a shallow bowl, arrange truffles in a circle. Place lasagna roll in middle of bowl and drizzle sauce on truffles with diced lemon peel.

ingredients

For the artichoke puree:

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 onion, peeled and sliced

1/2 carrot, peeled and chopped

1/2 rib celery, chopped

1/2 cup white wine

3 artichoke hearts

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/2 cup water

1 bay leaf

1 sprig thyme, stemmed

1/4 onion, peeled, diced and sauteed

1/2 carrot, peeled, diced and sauteed

1/2 rib celery, diced and sauteed

Salt and pepper

For the mushroom sauce:

2 quarts water

2 pounds white mushrooms, chopped

4 ounces butter, cubed

Salt and pepper

For the lasagna:

6 lasagna sheets, boiled

2 pounds King Crab legs, shelled and shredded

18 spears asparagus, blanched

18 oven-dried tomatoes

6 chives, blanched

For the garnish:

Black truffles, sliced thinly

Lemon peel, diced

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RELATED ARTICLE: Lasagna Bolognese (Serves 8)

raphael LUNETTA

directions

For the bolognese sauce: In a large saucepot over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add veal and cook until browned. Add onions, fennel and mushrooms. Cook until onion turns translucent. Add garlic, cinnamon stick, nutmeg, fennel seed, rosemary and thyme; cook for two minutes. Add wine and cook until dry. Add tomato paste and tomatoes; cook for two minutes. Add chicken stock and simmer for 45 minutes. Stir in cream and parsley. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the bechamel: In a medium saucepan over low heat, melt butter. Add flour, stirring constantly until smooth. Slowly whisk in milk and bring to a boil for five minutes. Remove from heat and add salt and nutmeg. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the proscuitto: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lay proscuitto on a sheet pan. Lay another sheet pan over proscuitto and place in the oven for 12 minutes. Remove from oven and cool.

To assemble the lasagna: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a large rectangular baking dish. Spoon some of the bolognese sauce on the bottom of the dish and layer with a sheet of lasagna. Layer with bolognese, bechamel, cheeses, five slices proscuitto. Repeat process until all of the ingredients are used ending with cheese. Bake covered with aluminum foil for 45 minutes. Uncover and bake until golden brown.

To serve: Serve with bolognese sauce and sweetbreads.

ingredients

For the bolognese:

1 tablespoon butter

1 pound ground veal

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1/2 bulb fennel, chopped

4 ounces white mushrooms, thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

1 cinnamon stick

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon fennel seed

1 sprig rosemary, stemmed and chopped

1 sprig thyme, stemmed and chopped

1/2 cup white wine

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 28-ounce can chopped tomatoes, liquid strained

1/2 cup chicken stock

1/4 cup heavy cream

1/4 bunch parsley, stemmed and chopped

Salt and pepper

For the bechamel:

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons flour

2 cups milk

1 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

For the proscuitto:

15 slices proscuitto

For the lasagna:

Butter as needed

1 pound lasagna noodles, boiled

3/4 cup grated Reggiano Parmesan cheese

3/4 cup grated aged Gouda cheese

3/4 cup ricotta cheese

3/4 cup grated mozzarella cheese

For the garnish:

Fried basil leaves

8 ounces sweetbreads, blanched, outer membrane removed, diced and fried

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RELATED ARTICLE: Lobster Lasagna with Butternut Squash (Serves 6)

raphael LUNETTA

directions

For the lobster: In a large saucepan, combine all ingredients except lobsters and bring to a boil. Add lobster and cook for six minutes. Remove from water and separate meat from shells. Keep claws whole and slice tails into large pieces and set aside, keeping cool. Reserve shells for stock.

For the lobster stock: In a large saucepan, heat oil. Add lobster shells and cook for 10 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook for three minutes. Add water, wine, onion, garlic, celery, carrots, fennel, thyme, pepper, fennel seeds and cloves. Simmer for 1 1/2 hours and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Add salt and pepper to taste. Reduce stock by three-quarters. Whisk in butter and set aside, keeping warm.

For the pasta: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine all ingredients. Mix until thoroughly combined. Transfer to a floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for one hour. Remove dough from refrigerator and pass it through the thinnest setting on the pasta machine. Cut dough into 8-inch long strips. Cook pasta in boiling salted water for 30 seconds.

For the squash: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place squash on a sheet tray and season with butter, honey, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Roast in oven for one hour. Remove skin and discard. Transfer squash to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Puree until smooth and add curry, turmeric and shallots. Fold in the ricotta cheese, mascarpone, Parmigiano-Reggiano and cream. Add salt and pepper to taste.

To assemble the lasagna: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a medium oval-shaped cast iron skillet, layer the squash, pasta, squash, tomatoes, lobster, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, pasta, squash and remaining tomatoes. Place in oven for 30 minutes.

To serve: Cut into six servings and place on a dinner plate.

ingredients

For the lobster:

1 gallon water

2 oranges, halved

1-inch piece gingerroot, peeled

1 onion, peeled and quartered

1/2 bunch parsley

1/2 bunch tarragon

1/2 bunch basil

1/2 bunch mint

1 tablespoon black pepper

1/2 cup salt

2 2-pound Maine lobsters

For the lobster stock:

2 tablespoons olive oil

Reserved lobster shells

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 pint water

1 1/2 quarts white wine

1 onion, peeled and chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled

2 ribs celery, chopped

2 carrots, peeled and chopped

1 bulb fennel, chopped

1/2 bunch thyme

1 tablespoon black pepper

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

2 cloves

2 tablespoons butter

Salt and pepper

For the pasta:

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup semolina flour

1 egg

1/2 teaspoon olive oil

2 tablespoons water

Salt and pepper

For the squash:

2 butternut squash, halved and seeded

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons honey

Nutmeg as needed

Pinch curry

Pinch turmeric

3 shallots, roasted, peeled and chopped

1/2 cup ricotta cheese

1/2 cup mascarpone cheese

1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1/4 cup heavy cream

Salt and pepper

For the dish:

10 Roma tomatoes, oven dried

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RELATED ARTICLE: Chocolate Apricot Lasagna (Serves 3)

raphael LUNETTA

directions

For the pasta: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle, combine flour and cocoa powder. In a separate bowl, whisk together egg, egg yolk, water, milk and hazelnut oil. Add liquid mixture to dry ingredients and mix to combine. Transfer to a floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for one hour. Remove from refrigerator and roll to the thinnest setting on pasta machine. Cut pasta into three 10X2-1/2-inch rectangles. In a large saucepan, bring water and sugar to a boil. Cook pasta until tender and set in an ice bath until chilled. Set aside.

For the filling: In a bowl, combine ingredients and mix well. Set aside, keeping cool.

For the apricots: In medium saucepan, bring orange juice, white wine, cinnamon stick, vanilla bean and sugar to a boil. Add apricots and cook for two minutes. Allow apricots to cool in mixture and remove vanilla bean. Strain when cooled and set aside.

For the ice cream: In a bowl, mix together mascarpone cheese and simple syrup. Add lemon juice and salt. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the sauce: Place all ingredients in a saucepan and cook for five minutes. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Pass through a fine mesh sieve.

To assemble the lasagna: Using a 10X2 1/2 terrine mold lined with parchment, layer the pasta, the filling and the apricots. Repeat layering, ending with the pasta. Refrigerate for one hour. Remove from refrigerator and slice into three pieces.

To serve: Place a slice of lasagna on a plate. Serve ice cream on separate plate and garnish with mint, almonds, sauce and blackberries.

ingredients

For the pasta:

5 ounces all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon dark cocoa powder

1 egg

1 egg yolk

2 ounces water

1 tablespoon milk

1 tablespoon hazelnut oil

1 quart water

3 ounces sugar

For the filling:

8 ounces goat cheese

2 ounces honey

1/2 teaspoon cardamom powder

For the apricots:

8 ounces orange juice

4 ounces white wine

1 cinnamon stick

1/2 vanilla bean, split

4 ounces granulated sugar

8 ounces dried apricots

For the ice cream:

8 ounces mascarpone cheese

12 ounces simple syrup

Juice of 1 lemon

Pinch salt

For the sauce:

4 ounces blackberries

1 ounce sugar

For the garnish:

Mint sprigs

Toasted almonds

Blackberries

Half moon tuile

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