Best in the West; This Gaelic-named eaterie lives up to its name.

CAIL BRUICH WEST 725 GREAT WESTERN ROAD, GLASGOW

If BBC Scotland's HQ hadn't moved to Pacific Quay, I reckon this restaurant - just a stone's throw from the old Queen Margaret Drive building would be an absolute goldmine.

Yes, folks, as a Beeb veteran of some 15 years, I can assure you dear old Ronnie Corbett wasn't joking when he cracked those gags about the legendary BBC canteen...

Previously a Greek taverna called The Parthenon (the little flecks of cracked crockery on the carpet were a dead giveaway) you'll find Cail Bruich just before the busy junction of Great Western Road and Byres Road.

Its name translates from the Gaelic for "eat well" (although, if you're one of the 23 people who watch BBC Alba, you probably already knew that).

This new-ish venture is run by a couple of brothers who also own a popular place of the same name in Quarriers Village, Renfrewshire.

And I'm sure the smart decor (it's all white table linen and candlelight) will find favour with the west end's discerning diners.

We popped in after watching a cracking wee play at Oran Mor called What The Animals Say.

If its two young stars - Robbie Jack and DavidWalshe - go on to win a few Tony awards on Broadway, well, remember where you read it first.

My mate Ron was immediately drawn to the separate mussel menu - an interesting concept I don't think I've seen in any other restaurant.

For just pounds 6.50, you get a big pot of freshly steamed Shetland mussels with one of four sauces (Thai spices with coconut milk looked the pick of the bunch), plenty of crusty bread and a drink of your choice.

It sounds quite interesting, eh? However, Ron insisted you're only supposed to eat mussels when there's an 'R' in the month, so we'll have to wait until September to sample this particular menu.

Of course, he could have been talking utter codswallop. Can any of my smart readers help put us straight? In the meantime, if you're looking for some genuine tips, never buy a second-hand yo-yo from a midget, never buy a pair of tights for a mermaid and never take a laxative at the same time as a sleeping pill...

Anyway, the main lunch menu at Cail Bruich is very credit crunch friendly. It costs just pounds 9.50 for two courses or pounds 12.50 for the works.

Many of the dishes suggest there's a serious chef at work in the kitchen and the mains included - prepare yourself for a watery mouth - steamed pudding of six-hour braised ox cheek with mashed potatoes and a wild mushroom & green lentil gravy.

How good does that sound? Ron started with an excellent smoked haddock risotto (topped with a runny poached egg) that wasn't light on chunky flakes of fish.

Me? Ham hough and pistachio nuts are two of my favourite foodstuffs, so ham hough and pistachio terrine had to be good. Rugged, smoky and meaty with a satisfying wee crunch from the nuts, it was very good. And a special word for the homemade piccalilli with lots of chunky cauliflower florets that was surprisingly spicy.

Another two of my favourites are risotto and peas, so ordering the spring pea risotto was another nobrainer. Again, this ticked most of the right boxes but, while the inclusion of mint gave the dish a lovely refreshing quality, I think the mascarpone cheese meant it was just a touch too rich and claggy.

Across the table, Ron finally got his seafood kick by ordering the beerbattered pollock (by coincidence, he once got battered after going for a beer in Pollok).

The fish was fine - meaty boneless with a light, crunchy coating - and he also enjoyed the tartar sauce (something I can't go anywhere near as it's got the same name as plaque that's been left on the teeth for a long time and gone hard).

However, we'd heard on the grapevine about Cail Bruich's triple-cooked chips and, sure enough, they were probably the star turn on Ron's plate.

Yes, folks, these little beauties are cooked in the deep-fat fryer not once, not twice, but three times.

And you wonder why Scotland is the heart attack capital of Europe?

Still, live for the moment and eat what you want. Remember, as a wise man once pointed out, there were people on the Titanic who pushed away the sweet trolley.

Two courses each and a bottle of the rather potent house red (the strangely named Tiddly Widdly Wine which does exactly as it says on the label) brought us to the bill which was presented with a few chunks of fudge. There was no need for a sweetener, though, as it only cost pounds 35 and Ron vowed to return in September for the mussel menu.

I'll be back even sooner for the triple-cooked chips.

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Keep track of Tam's reviews on theDaily Recordwebsite. Find the best places toeatoutat www.dailyrecord.co.uk/eating out. The new Hot Plate winner is Gamba,West George Street, Glasgow. 0141 572 0899

TAM'S HOT PLATE AWARD

CAILBRUICH

Address: 725 Great Western Road, Glasgow

Tel: [phone]

Open: Tue-Sun for lunch and dinner

Wheelchair access: Yes

Bill for two (with wine): pounds 35

Food: 4/5 - don't miss those chips

Service: 5/5 -very laid back and friendly

Decor: 4/5 - smart, relaxed Toilets: 3/5 -fine

Value: 5/5 - outstanding lunch deal

Total: 21/25

CAPTION(S):

CLASSY MENU... Diners tuck in to the fine food on offer EAT WELL... The restaurant definitely delivers the goods