Best Bard none; Rabbie Burns' old school passes Tam's taste test.

SOUTER JOHNNIE'S INN MAIN ST, KIRKOSWALD

Wildings in the tiny village of Maidens, The Jefferson in Kilmarnock and Troon's Piersland House Hotel.

Sound familiar? Yep, three winners of my coveted Hot Plate Award (stuff yer Michelin stars and AA rosettes) and you'll find them all in Ayrshire.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, this part of the country never fails to tickle my tastebuds. Not only is the food very good, I often notice to my sheer delight that the prices are a fraction of what you'd pay in city centres.

This week's restaurant is a perfect case in point.

Souter Johnnie's Inn - in the village of Kirkoswald, three miles from Culzean Castle and up the road from the Turnberry Hotel - is part of Bill Costley's empire of Ayrshire hotels and inns.

Built on the site of the old schoolhouse where Robert Burns studied in 1775, Souter Johnnie's was completely restored in 2007. It's old-meets-new and every visitor will love the thatched roof.

Unless, of course, Bruce Forsyth dropped in - he'd probably feel quite uncomfortable...

Souter Johnnie, of course, was Tam O'Shanter's "ancient, trusty, drouthy crony" and you can imagine them getting merrily blootered at the cosy bar where you'll find Tam's Own IPA (brewed by Strathaven Ales) on tap. The stunning interior (with lots of tasteful nods to our national bard) will delight locals and tourists - particularly the Americans - alike.

And it's only right to namecheck a very talented artist called Craig Campbell. Prepare to be gobsmacked by his amazing painting dominating one wall. Burns himself would have loved it.

The snug restaurant was very busy on the Wednesday afternoon we visited (always a good sign) and you'll enjoy mulling over the attractive menu that's packed with good, honest grub at very reasonable prices.

Yep, the owner's name might be Bill Costley, but I guarantee you won't get a costly bill.

Even the wine was sensibly pitched. The dearest bottle was pounds 19.95 and our perfectly chilled Pinot Grigio cost pounds 15.95.

One wee grumble, though. Rather than an ice-bucket (with the perfect balance of 50 per cent ice and 50 per cent water) it was served in one of those pointless chrome flasks I hate. But let's concentrate on my starter - a rich, hearty sausage and bean casserole served with two slabs of good garlic bread. Perfect comfort food and a steal at just four quid, it could easily have been dished up as a main course.

John's freshly-breaded calamari rings - with a crisp salad with a memorably light, zesty dressing - also hit the spot (you could tell a mile off they weren't the frozen variety) and another pounds 4 bargain.

He then enjoyed a huge plate of beer-battered haddock and chips which, at the risk of sounding like a broken record, looked every bit as good as my fish and chip triumphs at the Popinjay Hotel, The Chippy Doon The Lane and The Bervie Chipper.

Dish of the day, though, was my perfectly- cooked fillet of salmon with the most incredible cheese and leek sauce. The puff pastry on top worked a treat (for scooping up the sauce) and, served with a bowl of good French fries, this pounds 8 dish sums up the terrific value at Souter Johnnie's. I don't think you'd pay less than pounds 14.95 for the same in Scotland's big cities.

Don't even think about dessert.

Just pay the bill (ours was a very modest pounds 44) and head next door to Costley's chocolate/ice-cream factory. It's like a mini Willy Wonka's and you can't go wrong with a pounds 1.30 cone (we loved rich and chewy vanilla or banana).

I bought a box of handmade chocs for the wife.

Well, I'd been out all day and had a few drinks. As Tam O'Shanter and Souter Johnnie would appreciate, I didn't want to go back to a sulky, sullen dame, gathering her brows like gathering storm...

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TAM'S HOT PLATE AWARD

Name: Souter Johnnie's Inn, above

Address: 47 Main Street, Kirkoswald, Ayrshire

Tel: [phone] Open: all day, seven days Wheelchair access: Yes.

Bill for two (with wine): pounds 44 Food: 5/5 - highly-impressive traditonal fayre

Service: 4/5 - pleasant and welcoming Decor: 5/5 - snug and stunning Toilets: 4/5 - nice and clean Value: 5/5 - worth every penny

Total: 23/25

THE KING'S WARK, 36, The Shore, Leith. 0131 554 9260 - 22/25

CHIPPY DOON THE LANE, McCormick Lane Glasgow, 0141 225 5615 - 22/25

THE BERVIE CHIPPER, Southbound A90 between Brechin and Forfar - 19/25

Keep track of Tam's reviews on the Daily Record website. Find the best places to eat out at www. daily record.co.uk/eating out. The new Hot Plate winner is the Piersland House Hotel, 15 Craigend Rd, Troon. 01292 314747.

CAPTION(S):

SOUTERS ME SIR.. The food at Souter Johnnie's was tasty and great value ssss.. sssnsssnsss nsssnsssnss sn