Berlin stories: watch history happen in this European capital. (Germany).

Germany may fall into the category of "old Europe" in Donald Rumsfeld's view of the world. But Berlin is anything but. Political tumult--whether it be Napoleon's occupation, the Weimar Republic, the Third Reich, the Cold War, or the fall of the Wall--has forced the city to constantly reinvent itself. And unlike in some other European capitals, a visitor to Berlin is likely to have the strong sense that its residents are active players in what this city is yet to become.

For gay tourists, this can mean anything from watching firsthand as the world's foremost architects re-create Potsdamer Platz--the business center that became no-man's-land after World War II--to stumbling upon an underground club in the Mitte district or in any of the city's several gay neighborhoods.

Of course, Berlin is home to symphony orchestras, operas, and arts and science museums, but for a distinct experience be sure to save a day for the Jewish and Schwules (gay) museums, both of which chronicle--in often painful detail--the centuries-old struggle for gay and lesbian rights in Germany.

Even the hotels remind visitors that Berlin is no ordinary city. If you're on a budget, check out Mann-O-Meter, a gay services center where residents list rooms for rent--sometimes for as little as 10 Euros a night. Or if money is less of a concern, sleep in the shadow of the landmark Brandenburg Gate at the Hotel Adlon. Nowhere else in either old or new Europe can you say you've slept with presidents, celebrities, and--most important--in the same building where Michael Jackson introduced his baby known as "Blanket" to the world.

Find information and links to more travel information on Berlin at www.advocate.com