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Barry's builds a boffo sandwich.


Byline: NONIE FISH The Register-Guard

WHY IS THIS 29th Avenue establishment so seducing? Why does the menu bring you back time after time? I pondered these questions, but I could not get past my dreaming about the bialy bi·a·ly  
n. pl. bia·lys
A flat, round baked roll topped with onion flakes.



[After Bialystok.]

Noun 1.
 with the warm egg salad I had for lunch that day.

You might be stressed when you finally find a seat in this small place, but with the aroma of fantastic sweets, the overtone overtone

In acoustics, a faint higher tone contained within almost any musical tone. A body producing a musical pitch—such as a taut string or a column of air within the tubular body of a wind instrument—vibrates not only as a unit but simultaneously also in
 of luscious savories and an underlayer of espresso, you'll find that Prozac is not needed. Beaming faces, intense conversation, good food: Barry's is a place that satisfies.

We have the best of all worlds here; a restaurant, a bakery and a coffeehouse all rolled into one Adj. 1. rolled into one - made up of several components combined into a single entity
combined - made or joined or united into one
 neat little knish knish  
n.
A piece of dough stuffed with potato, meat, or cheese and baked or fried.



[Yiddish, from Ukrainian knysh, probably of Turkic origin.]

Noun 1.
. Four hungry people savored a Thursday's lunch break and wanted more.

The menu is hung on the wall above the bakery case, next to the cramped kitchen where all these splendid creations are assembled. The first offerings are the sandwiches, soups and choice of fixings, and there are many.

For example, you may choose the usual basics, such as roast beef, cheese, tuna, egg salad, etc., embellished with sliced veggies Veggies of Nottingham, also known as Veggies Catering Campaign, is a campaigning group based in Nottingham, England, promoting ethicalbum alternatives to mainstream fast food. , pickles, sprouts, mayonnaise, mustard, ketchup and more. If you are like me, the decision is difficult.

I ordered a toasted bialy with a warm egg salad ($4). The temperature of the egg salad was perfect, not refrigerated, but made on the premises. The crusty bialy, with the perfect amount of soft butter and then spread with egg salad, was ambrosial am·bro·sial   also am·bro·sian
adj.
1. Suggestive of ambrosia; fragrant or delicious. See Synonyms at delicious.

2. Of or worthy of the gods; divine.
.

The bialy, not to be confused with a bagel, is a round, flat roll that is mainly all crust; a penny-sized indentation in·den·ta·tion
n.
A notch, a pit, or a depression.
 in the center is filled with a mixture of browned onions and poppy seeds. Originally from Bialystok in Poland, the bialy is a true delicacy, popular in New York City New York City: see New York, city.
New York City

City (pop., 2000: 8,008,278), southeastern New York, at the mouth of the Hudson River. The largest city in the U.S.
 and found in only a few other cities in the United States.

Barry could give a Sandwich 101 class. First, all breads are baked in the tiny back room: rye, sourdough, challah (an egg bread with just a touch of sweet, usually made for the Jewish Sabbath). Next, bread slices are cut 1-inch thick or more, unless you ask otherwise, and toasted upon request.

The roast beef ($5.75) on challah in this case was an enormous structure with the choice of tomatoes, onions, pickles, red onion and cucumber slices. Truly fresh, fresh, fresh, with just a sprinkle of salt and pepper
For the American R&B and hip hop group, see Salt-N-Pepa.
For the seasonings, see Edible salt and Black pepper.
For the type of noise, see Salt and pepper noise.
.

A delectable half sandwich of tuna - mixed to the proper consistency and spread on rye with sliced tomatoes - had great character and came with a cup of chicken noodle soup ($5.75) that had honest-to-goodness pieces of chicken. It was delicious, but I wished the soup had been hotter.

A picture-perfect kosher hot dog ($2.50), artistically slathered with everything, was fantastic, one of the best in Lane County.

Two types of knishes are served every day of the week, as well as quiche quiche  
n.
A rich unsweetened custard pie, often containing ingredients such as vegetables, cheese, or seafood.



[French, from German dialectal Küche, diminutive of German Kuchen, cake
. The knish (also a Jewish savory) was the basic potato variety ($1.50) with a thin pastry enveloping en·vel·op  
tr.v. en·vel·oped, en·vel·op·ing, en·vel·ops
1. To enclose or encase completely with or as if with a covering: "Accompanying the darkness, a stillness envelops the city" 
 the potatoes and onions.

Disappointingly, the sliced potatoes were not cooked through and desperately needed more onions and salt and pepper.

Accompanying the sandwiches, we chose soda pop at $1.25 each. With our sweets, we had coffee to my liking.

The Torrefazione Italia coffee was roasted correctly, smooth and mellow. Cappuccino ($1.75, single) is what Italy is all about; closing my eyes and bringing the cup to my lips, instantly I was there. The cappuccino was not too dry, but with enough steamed milk and foam.

Our choices for dessert: Tollhouse cookies (40 cents each), the way I would like mine to taste - deep-dark rich and chewy! Hamantaschen, a crunchy sort of cookie pastry shaped like a three-cornered hat, was delish! Rugelach rug·e·lach or rug·a·lach  
n.
A cookie of cream-cheese dough spread with filling, such as jam or nuts, and then rolled up.

Noun 1.
 was another cookie-pastry treat (50 cents each), a flaky dough rolled and filled with chopped nuts and cinnamon.

Unfortunately, each one is only a small bite. I could have eaten a dozen!

Lastly, the blueberry blueberry, plant of the large genus Vaccinium, widely distributed shrubs (occasionally small trees) of the family Ericaceae (heath family), usually found on acid soil. They are often confused with the related huckleberry.  crumb cake ($1.50), one of Barry's most popular items, could have been better if heated; I should have asked.

The service was outstanding: good-natured smiling people, knocking themselves out to please, part of Barry's personality.

Barry's is numero uno, a cross between a New York City deli and a Eugene coffeehouse. Maybe it should be called Barry's Coffelli. It's definitely on my list.

Nonie Fish is a free-lance food writer from Eugene. Her biweekly Dining Out reviews are based on unannounced, anonymous visits to local restaurants.

BARRY'S ESPRESSO & BAKERY

WHERE: 29 W. 29th Ave. (corner of 29th and Willamette)

PHONE: 343-6444

HOURS: Hours: 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday; 6:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday; 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday

RESERVATIONS NEEDED? No

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED? No; checks or cash only

COST FOR TWO PEOPLE: $19.10 for lunch (big splurge)

THOMAS BOYD / The Register-Guard

CAPTION(S):

Barry Siegel, owner of Barry's Espresso & Bakery, shows off his cinnamon rolls.
COPYRIGHT 2001 The Register Guard
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2001, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Article Details
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Title Annotation:Review; Reviews
Publication:The Register-Guard (Eugene, OR)
Date:Dec 21, 2001
Words:837
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