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Barbecue pigs will want to eat at Joe's.


Byline: Best of ... by The Register-Guard

Team Best Of ... digs barbecue.

We're not talking about hamburgers and hot dogs cooked on some $3,000 stainless steel stainless steel: see steel.
stainless steel

Any of a family of alloy steels usually containing 10–30% chromium. The presence of chromium, together with low carbon content, gives remarkable resistance to corrosion and heat.
 gas grill monstrosity monstrosity

1. great congenital deformity.

2. a monster or teratism.
. We're talking pig meat, cooked low and slow with plenty of smoke and spice.

The team went in search of the best barbecue joint and found just the place to dine on some fine swine. But more on that joint later.

We started at the Hole in the Wall, a down-home, nothing but barbecue place on West 11th Avenue with tasty, smoky St. Louis-style ribs. The Hole has a loyal following, and we can see why, but that part of the brain that controls pork cravings was still twitching.

So we ventured to the River Ranch Steak The Ranch steak comes from the chuck cut of a cow, namely the shoulder. Technically it is called a "boneless chuck shoulder center cut steak", but supermarkets in an effort to get the patron a better sounding as well as an easier to remember name dubbed it the "Ranch steak".  House on Franklin Boulevard, where we savored a half-rack of baby backs. They were tender and tasty, but we could have done with a little less sauce. And the Black Angus atmosphere just didn't say barbecue joint to us quite like the old West Broze.

Lately, we've been digging on Tony's Bar-B-Q, which operates out of a trailer in a parking lot at Sixth Avenue and Chambers Street Chambers Street is a street in Edinburgh, Scotland, at south of the Old Town. The street is named after William Chambers of Glenormiston, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh who was the main proponent of the 1867 Edinburgh Improvement Act, which gave permission for the street's . But the fact that there's no indoor seating disqualified dis·qual·i·fy  
tr.v. dis·qual·i·fied, dis·qual·i·fy·ing, dis·qual·i·fies
1.
a. To render unqualified or unfit.

b. To declare unqualified or ineligible.

2.
 it from this compe- tition.

We also hear that Turtles Bar and Grill on South Willamette and the Hillside Grill in Coburg deserve big ups for their barbecue, but we skipped 'em both since neither seemed to offer true BBQ BBQ barbecue  ambience.

Which brings us to our favorite soul food stop this side of Silvia's Restaurant of Harlem. It's called Papa's Soul Kitchen, and it's located inside a place called Joe's Bar & Grill, which makes it even better.

This smoker is run by Papa, who can be found in the long, skinny kitchen in back cooking up his specialties: pork ribs, pulled pork and catfish. Papa (that is what he prefers to be called) and his staff turn out some truly old-school barbecue and soulful sides, such as collard greens Noun 1. collard greens - kale that has smooth leaves
collards

cole, kail, kale - coarse curly-leafed cabbage
, black-eyed peas, and red beans and rice Red beans and rice is an emblematic dish of Louisiana Creole cuisine (not originally of Cajun cuisine), traditionally made on Mondays with red beans, vegetables (onion and celery), spices (thyme, cayenne pepper, and bay leaf), and pork bones left over from Sunday dinner, cooked .

This is the kind of place you might find in East Oakland or Northeast Portland or South Central Los Angeles: a little gritty, no frills, just a plate full of greasy, tasty ribs.

The kitchen is open until 2 a.m. and the late night bar crowd craves Papa's mac 'n' cheese. The big man, who runs a catering business and also feeds the bands who play next door at the Jungle, has plans for a west Eugene restaurant that will serve the daytimers.

Until then, you'll have to stick to dinner at Joe's. And hey, if it's good enough for Bo Diddley, it's good enough for you.

Relax, Best of ... contains just four grams of carbs. So grab some napkins, loosen your belt and bite into the Best of ... archive at www.registerguard .com/bestof.

BEST BBQ JOINT

Papa's Soul Kitchen

Where: 21 W. Sixth Ave.

Hours: 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily

CAPTION(S):

At Papa's Soul Kitchen, the man they call Papa shows off his barbecue ribs, collard greens and macaroni macaroni: see pasta.  and cheese.
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Article Details
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Title Annotation:Columns; Slab-o'-meat lovers who want to go whole hog can't go wrong when they come to Papa's
Publication:The Register-Guard (Eugene, OR)
Article Type:Column
Date:Oct 8, 2004
Words:517
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