Balkan cuisine.

ALBANIA, BELORUSSIA, BULGARIA, ROMANIA, Bosnia and Herzegovinia, Croatia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, and Slovenia ... These are countries very much in the news, nations swept up in historical maelstroms. Despite conflicts in this geographic region, these countries share many characteristics, including their approach to the culinary arts.

If we try to make generalizations, Balkan cuisine is a hearty cuisine, resulting from harsh winters and short growing seasons. Traditional meals are heavy, and several starches may be served in one course. For example, boiled potatoes and noodles may accompany an entree, with bread or rolls served on the side. A thick bean soup may be made with potatoes and garnished with dumplings, or it may be served with vegetable croquettes or fluffy, steamed barley.

In all of the cultures, root vegetables, such as beets, carrots, potatoes, and turnips; pickled and dried fruits; and hearty vegetables, such as cabbage and cauliflower, are mainstays. Seasonal mushrooms are gathered and dried for use as main ingredients. Additionally, mushrooms and onions are stewed or flied to use as seasonings. Grains are widely available, as many grains are fast-growing crops that store well. Several countries grow grapes for fresh consumption, drying for raisins, and for use in jams, syrups, and wines. Olives and corn are also grown, adding a Mediterranean influence.

Rolled or stuffed cabbage and peppers are made in every Balkan country, as are vegetable patties. Stuffings for cabbage and peppers can include cooked grains, chopped carrots, onions, peppers, potatoes, rice, nuts, and dried fruit. Some countries use pickled cabbage leaves, while others use steamed cabbage and sauerkraut. Peppers can be fresh or pickled, red or green. Sauces can be a sweet and sour tomato, a sour cream-based condiment, or as typical in Yugoslavian cuisine, a garlic sauce spiced with cayenne pepper.

Also popular are dumplings, which come in all shapes and sizes. They may be solid or filled with sweet or savory ingredients. They can be made with white or whole wheat flour, bread, potatoes, or cottage cheese and are served in soup, as a side dish, an entree, or dessert. Bread doughs may be baked to form loaves or rolls, fried to become flitters, or boiled to become dumplings. Thin crepes or pancakes are sometimes used instead of vegetables for stuffing. Pancakes are filled with savory ingredients for an entree and sweetened soft cheeses and fruit for dessert. Thick, heavy jams are used as condiments for both sweet and savory pancakes.

With these overall similarities, some of the food characteristics are difficult to untangle. The Balkan states have always been in a position to do cuisine-sharing. Their availability by water and land routes ensured that most countries have cross-cultural cuisine. It is practically impossible to separate the cuisines of the different countries or from their surrounding cultural influences. For example, the former Yugoslavian cuisine was influenced by Italy, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Greece, Albania, and Turkey. Stuffed vegetable dishes, yogurt, syrupy desserts, and strong coffee, along with lots of garlic, onions, and spicy pickled vegetables used to season foods, show the influence of many countries.

Belorussia, wedged in between Poland and Russia, has Lithuanian influences. Belorussian cuisine includes lots of dairy products and butter (a Lithuanian trait). Onions, potatoes, beets, cabbage, pumpkin, mushrooms, sauerkraut, and garlic-dill pickles are found on winter menus. Spinach, sorrel, green onions, radishes, and sweet peas are used during warm weather months. Most meals are accompanied by boiled or baked grains, such as buckwheat and barley. Pirazki (sounding like the Polish pyrogi, a ravioli-type dumpling) are little balls of unbaked yeast dough stuffed with chopped vegetables and deep-flied. Kisiel is a summer fruit dessert, made by pressing cooked berries, peaches, or apricots through a sieve, then reheated and thickened with cornstarch. Halubcy is the Belorussian version of cabbage rolls, garnished with tomato sauce and served with boiled potatoes or boiled barley.

Bosnian cuisine has Turkish influences. It would not be unusual to have baklava, halva, or kadiaf for dessert. These are all Turkish sweets made with chopped nuts and sweet syrups. Assisted by a Mediterranean growing climate, Bosnia traditionally has a healthy cuisine, adding okra, olives, and summer squash to the usual Balkan root vegetables. Croatian cuisine shows some Austro-Hungarian influences, including goulashes (gulyas), strudels, and the use of paprika. Macedonia has Muslim and Greek Orthodox populations, so its cuisine shows Greek and Turkish influences, along with Albanian, Bulgarian, and Serbian accents. Hot chili peppers, fresh herbs, garlic, onions, and leeks are used to season many dishes. Olive oil is used instead of animal fat for cooking, and there are many sweet and savory specialties made with pita as the base.

In addition, there are cuisines within these cuisines. Balkan Jewish cuisine is a mixture of Romanian, Bulgarian, and Yugoslavian dishes blended with Greek influences. You can see the Greek influence with avgolemono sauces (a lemonrice blend) and the use of yogurt and phyllo dough. There are many eggplant dishes and desserts that include the use of pumpkin, syrups, and nuts. Sweet red peppers, called gamba, are used as a garnish and featured in a traditional marinade that includes pickled gamba, sugar, and onions. Mamaliga is a much-enjoyed entree of thick cornmeal served with yogurt or cheese. And croquettes are made with chopped seasonal vegetables that are breaded, browned, and simmered with lemon and sugar.

BALKAN MUSHROOM
AND VEGETABLE CAVIAR

(Makes about 22 two-ounce servings)

Dried mushrooms can be found in
Whole Foods, Wild Oats, and specially
grocery chains, as well as some
farmers' markets. This recipe is traditionally
prepared with dairy sour
cream and cottage cheese. We have
used soy sour cream and diced firm
tofu instead. Serve this over shredded
carrots or cabbage as a cold appetizer,
spread it on sandwiches, or use
it as a dip for vegetables, crackers,
and bread sticks.

1/2 ounce dried mushrooms
    Warm water
    Vegetable oil spray or olive oil spray
3/4 cup coarsely chopped onions
1   cup coarsely chopped red bell peppers
1/4 cup coarsely chopped green bell peppers
1   pound coarsely chopped fresh mushrooms
    (about 2 cups)
3   cloves garlic, crushed
1   teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/3 cup chopped flesh dill
1   cup vegan soy sour cream
1   cup finely diced, drained firm tofu

In a small bowl, soak dried mushrooms
in just enough water to
cover (about 4 Tablespoons) for
30 minutes. Drain, discard water,
and chop mushrooms finely.

Spray a heavy frying pan with
oil. Saute onions, peppers, flesh
mushrooms, and garlic, stirring,
until the vegetables are very soft
and all the liquid has cooked away,
about 20-30 minutes. Be careful
not to burn the vegetables. Add
soaked dried mushrooms, black
and red pepper, and dill. Stir and
cook for 10 minutes. Remove
from heat and allow to cool.

Stir in sour cream and tofu
and combine well. Allow to chill
for at least 40 minutes before
serving.

Total calories per serving: 40
Carbohydrates: 3 grams
Sodium: 45 milligrams
Fat: 3 grams
Protein: 2 grams
Fiber: <1 gram

DALMATIAN RICE
AND VEGETABLE SALAD

(Serves 5)

Dalmatian cuisine is a specialty
within Yugoslavian cuisine. For
variety, you can use cooked barley
or whole wheat in place of rice.

3   cups cooked and cooled brown rice
    (Start with 1 1/4 cups uncooked rice.)
1/4 cup chopped green onions (Use both
    white and green parts.)
1/2 cup peeled and seeded diced cucumbers
1/4 cup chopped fresh tomato
1   Tablespoon drained capers
1   Tablespoon olive oil
2   teaspoons vinegar
1   clove fresh garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1/4 teaspoon dry marjoram
1/4 teaspoon dry thyme
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon hot sauce
1/2 teaspoon orange juice concentrate

In a large glass or plastic bowl,
mix together rice, onions, cucumbers,
tomatoes, and capers. Set
aside. In a small glass or plastic
bowl, combine oil and vinegar
with the remaining ingredients.
Whisk until well combined. Right
before serving, dress rice with oil
and vinegar mixture.

Total calories per serving: 160
Carbohydrates: 29 grams
Sodium: 75 milligrams
Fat: 4 grams
Protein: 4 grams
Fiber: 3 grams

CHORBA VILLAGE
(MOLDOVAN SOUP)

(Serves 4)

Moldovan cuisine incorporates
cuisines from the Mediterranean
and southern Europe, including
Turkey, with a little bit of Russian
and Ukrainian added. This soup,
redolent with garden vegetables,
reflects the fertile growing areas of
Moldova. The soup is traditionally
garnished with a dollop of sour
cream right before serving.

4   cups vegetable stock or broth
20  fresh green beans, ends snapped off
    and broken or chopped into small pieces
    (about 3/4 cup)
1/4 cup chopped carrots
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
2   stalks celery, finely chopped (about
    1/2 cup)
1/2 cup chopped onion
2   cups shredded green cabbage
2   Russet (baking) potatoes, peeled and
    diced (about 1 pound or 1 1/2 cups)
1/2 cup chopped fresh tomatoes
2   teaspoons red pepper flakes
1   teaspoon white pepper
3/4 cup vegan soy sour cream (optional)

Place vegetable stock in a large
soup pot. Add green beans, carrots,
parsley, and celery to the
stock, cover, and allow mixture
to simmer for 10 minutes. Add
onions, cabbage, potatoes, and
tomatoes. Cover and allow soup
to simmer until vegetables are
soft, about 30-40 minutes. Add
red pepper flakes and white pepper
and continue simmering, covered,
for 15 more minutes. Serve
hot. Garnish with a small amount
of soy sour cream, if desired.

Total calories per serving: 110
Carbohydrates: 24 grams
Sodium: 490 milligrams
Fat: 1 gram
Protein: 4 grams
Fiber: 5 grams

SZERB BABLEVES
(SERBIAN BEAN SOUP)

(Serves 5)

In traditional Serbian cookbooks
this is referred to as "Southern
Hungary Soup," and in Hungarian
cookbooks as "Serbian Soup." It is
usually served with small potato
dumplings that resemble gnocchi,
or as referred to in Yugoslavian
cookbooks, "njoki." (Both words
are pronounced the same way!)

1   cup dried white beans
11  cups cold water, divided
1/4 cup diced carrots
1/4 cup diced parsnips
1/4 cup diced celery
2   Tablespoons chopped fresh and parsley
1   Tablespoon dried mushrooms
    Vegetable oil spray
1/4 cup chopped onions
2   garlic cloves, minced
1   Tablespoon all-purpose or whole wheat
    flour
1   teaspoon paprika
1   teaspoon red pepper flakes
3   teaspoons white vinegar
1   cup unflavored vegan soy yogurt
    (optional)

Soak beans overnight in 3 cups
cold water to soften. Drain beans
and discard water.

Combine 2 quarts (8 cups)
water with carrots, parsnips, celery,
parsley, and mushrooms in a large
soup pot. Allow to simmer for 1
hour. Add beans, cover, and allow
to simmer until beans are soft,
about 1 hour. If necessary, add
water to keep level at 2 quarts.

While beans are cooking, spray
a frying pan with oil and allow to
hear. Saute onions and garlic until
soft, about 2 minutes. Remove
from heat and quickly stir in flour.
When beans are soft, stir in onion
mixture, paprika, and red pepper
flakes. Allow soup to simmer,
covered, for 15 minutes. Mix in
vinegar and allow to heat for 3
more minutes.

Serve hot. If desired, garnish
each serving with a dollop of soy
yogurt.

Total calories per serving: 170
Carbohydrates: 33 grams
Sodium: 35 milligrams
Fat: 1 gram
Protein: 11 grams
Fiber: 8 grams

SMALL DUMPLINGS

(Serves 5)

Flour and potato dumplings are a
favorite side dish or soup garnish.
This recipe can be made ahead and
rewarmed when ready to eat.

3      cups all-purpose or whole wheel flour
1/4    teaspoon salt
1      Tablespoon vegetable oil
4      Tablespoons silken tofu
16 3/4 cups water, divided

In a small bowl, mix together
flour and salt. In a large bowl, mix
together oil and tofu. Add 3/4 cup
water to oil/tofu mixture and
whisk until well combined. Mix
flour into water mixture only
until ingredients are just combined.
Cover and allow to sit
for at least 1 hour.

Boil 16 cups of water. Flour
your hands. Drop dime-sized
pieces of dough into the boiling
water. Allow to cook until firm,
about 10 minutes. Finished dumplings
will rise to the top but won't
look floury. Drain and serve as a
side dish or in soup, as a garnish.

Note: Water and flour amounts
may not be exact, depending on
the type of flour used and the
daily humidity. I suggest adding
the flour slowly, using only enough
to form a loose paste. You may
want to have a little extra flour
on hand, in case more is needed.

Total calories per serving: 270
Carbohydrates: 53 grams
Sodium: 120 milligrams
Fat: 5 grams
Protein: 10.5 grams
Fiber: 9 grams

POLENTA WITH GARLIC
AND TOMATO SAUCE

(Serves 3)

Polenta is a traditional dish in
many Balkan countries. It is usually
cooked in a thick Dutch oven or
cast iron soup pot to prevent scorching
and to allow the polenta to
acquire a rich, creamy texture.
This is a dish that requires your
attention and your love. We've given
exact measures for the polenta, but
precision comes more with experience.
You will become better at
preparing it with practice.

SAUCE

    Vegetable oil spray or olive oil spray
1/2 cup sliced sun-dried tomotoes
2   cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup chopped canned tomatoes (not
    drained)
1   Tablespoon minced flesh dill

Spray a small frying pan with oil
and allow to heat. Add sun-dried
tomatoes and garlic and allow to
saute until tomatoes have softened,
about 4 minutes. Add canned
tomatoes and dill, cover, and allow
to simmer until flavors are combined.
The sauce can be kept
heating while polenta is cooking.

POLENTA

1   cup yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup cold water
4   cups boiling water
1/2 teaspoon paprika

Combine cornmeal with cold
water and stir until smooth. Bring
4 cups water to a boil on the top
of a double boiler. Gradually add
cornmeal mixture, stirring rapidly
to prevent clumps from forming.
When all the cornmeal is added,
stir in paprika. This process should
take 2-3 minutes. Continue to stir
until mixture is smooth, with no
lumps. Cover and allow to steam
for 15-20 minutes, or until desired
texture is achieved. Serve a bowl
of polenta garnished with a small
amount of heated sauce.

Total calories per serving: 180
Carbohydrates: 38 grams
Sodium: 240 milligrams
Fat: 2 grams
Protein: 5 grams
Fiber: 5 grams

Nancy Berkoff, RD, EdD, CCE, is VRG's Food Service Advisor and the author of, most recently, Vegan Microwave Cookbook.