Bad break is so good.

Byline: PAULINE TAYLOR 

WHEN I first went to the Moselle, I saw myself sipping some of the area's most famous product - wine - not wallowing from head to toe in milk.

I was heading for the spa town of Bad Bertrich, just 40 minutes from Frankfurt airport and definitely one of Germany's best-kept secrets.

While most people still visit the Moselle Valley to tour the vineyards and sample the excellent local wines, more and more visitors are out for a rest, retreat and to enjoy being pampered in the area's two natural spas established by the Romans 2000 years ago.

Our weekend retreat began with a Friday flight from Prestwick with Irish airline Ryanair and just one hour and 50 minutes later we touched down at Frankfurt Hahn.

Our hosts, the Kurhotel Am Kurfurstlichen Schlossen - try saying that after a glass of wine - arranged transfers, and we enjoyed a scenic drive on winding roads meandering along the banks of the Moselle.

As we drove deep into the lush valley, the wine town of Zell opened out on the horizon beneath rows of neat vineyards that stretched as far as the eye could see.

Then, just around the next couple of bends, we arrived at the tiny spa town of Bad Bertrich, which has a population of just 600.

Visiting this picture postcard town is like stepping back in time. The four hotels that make up the central square look out over well-manicured lawns, beautiful gardens and a scenic fountain.

The Kur-Dam, the main thoroughfare, features beautiful shops and quiet bistros.

The town nestles beneath the volcanic Eifel mountains to the north, and the Moselle river which flows from the French Vosges mountains to join the Rhine at Koblenz after a 545km journey. In and around our hotel the staff wore traditional costumes, and smiled cheerily at our every request during meal times, at which the fine food was abundant despite the traditional image of the health spa - no carrot juice and celery sticks for us!

During our weekend we sampled a selection of the many therapies the resort offers.

It is said that the famed waters of the spa's two thermal baths have medicinal qualities known to aid good health and vitality.

People who suffer from stomach ailments, rheumatic problems and kidney and liver complaints are reputed to gain great benefit from bathing in the waters. Many others go there to escape the stress of daily life.

In 1604, chemist Johann Rudolph Glauber recognised the health-giving properties of the salty water. Glauber's salts are found naturally in the local drinking water and bottles are still sold in shops and cafes.

The waters have a natural temperature of 32C (89F) and bathing rather than swimming is encouraged.

It was only when I emerged from the chlorine-free water in the town's Thermalhallen spa complex that I realised I was the only swimmer in the pool.

An Eifelfango mud wrap from the Eifel mountains was administered by an enthusiastic Frau, and followed by a reviving back, neck and shoulder massage.

Our hotel's cellar sanctuary - the elegant 200-year-old Vitaltemple - was the next stop on our route to well-being as my friend and I were encouraged to partake of a rasul.

We sat, Buddha-like, on ceramic thrones and covered ourselves in body paints of many different colours. This skin-peeling treatment was designed to rid us of toxins and dead skin. After around 20 minutes a sprinkler washes it all away. Great fun.

A moment or two's relaxation and then we were ushered into the Cleo-patrabad chamber for skin purifying, where I bathed in milk.

We were wrapped in linens doused in a milky lotion and suspended hammock-like over a warm bath, on rubber sheeting.

After a rest we were then given a relaxing all-over body massage with soft brushes, followed by a wonderful deep-cleansing facial, manicure and pedicure in the hotel beauty parlour.

Two days later and we returned, revitalised, radiant and refreshed. Cleopatra herself couldn't have asked for more.

ESSENTIAL SIGHTS The Thermalhallen's outdoor pool offers hilltop views of the lush valley. Concert square is a step back in time and instills an air of tranquility as you sip a drink to the strains of Russian and German music. The Kur-Dam walkway is a touch of olde Germany with beautiful shops and inviting bars.

DETAILS We travelled with Ryanair. Details on www.Ryanair.com Current price is pounds 44.99 plus tax. The Kurhotel Am Kurfurstlichen Schlossen www.die-fuhrmanns.de offers a three-day beauty trip at around pounds 236. Moselle tourist board - www.bad-bertrich.com - has full details.