Back in time on idyllic island; Sunday Mercury reader Janice Hume of Burntwood, Staffordshire, took up the challenge to turn travel writer to compose this account of a trip to Lesvos.

Byline: Janice Hume

A VISIT to the Greek island of Lesvos is like stepping back into the rural England of 40 years ago.

Admittedly, olive groves replace the beech woods of old England and a pervasive smell of spices adds an exotic twist.

It's usually a lot warmer, too! But the leisurely pace of life, the traditional farming methods and the constant hum of insects along the hedgerows instil a wonderful feeling of nostalgia, certain to banish the stresses of modern living.

Lesvos is the second largest Greek island and one of the least developed in terms of tourism. It nestles in the shadow of Turkey in the east Aegean and offers a range of scenery from pretty fishing harbours and sandy beaches to stunning mountain passes and pine forests.

The island is easily accessible during the main holiday season, being served by a four-hour direct flight from Manchester.

Off-season it is necessary to fly via Athens but this option is mainly taken up by birdwatchers keen to experience the April influx of migratory birds.

However, if you're hoping for a quiet family holiday, don't be put off. You can guarantee that the beaches, shops, museums and castles will be relatively empty while all the birders line the salt pans, drainage ditches and rubbish tips in search of rarities. I know, I'm usually with them.

They also speak their own strange language so don't be too startled if someone approaches you in a forest and asks if you've had "the Kruper's" yet. They're not referring to some awful Greek stomach complaint but to the rare Kruper's nuthatch, one of the island's most sought-after birds.

We spent a fortnight in the picturesque fishing village of Skala Kalloni which makes an ideal base from which to explore the island. Centrally situated, it offers excellent self-catering accommodation as well as some luxurious hotels. There are numerous tavernas offering delicious food and a friendly welcome. Often the dessert course or an after-dinner liqueur is thrown in free of charge. And don't miss the local celebrity - a tame pelican - which makes a great feature in your holiday snaps.

The nearby town of Kalloni provides banks, a supermarket and a wider range of shops. Car hire is easy and not too expensive - we certainly found it invaluable as there are so many places to explore.

My personal favourite is the beautiful little town of Molyvos, built into a cliff-face on the north coast and crowned by a well-preserved castle. Networks of steep, cobbled streets lead ever upwards between fascinating shops and past white cottages adorned with vivid flowers.

Reaching the castle is quite a hard slog on foot and it was only when we got to the top that we discovered a road that by-passes the town centre and leads directly to a spacious car park at the back of the fortification.

Be aware also that the castle closes at 2pm. We arrived too late and had to content ourselves with ambling round the outer walls which still offer stunning views of Molyvos harbour, the coastline and nearby Turkey.

The proximity of Greece's old enemy means that there is quite a military presence of Lesvos. However, you are unlikely to be disturbed by the soldiers in their well-concealed hillside bases unless you inadvertently point a camera in their direction, when you will be politely asked to move on.

The west of the island is far more wild and undisturbed. Pine-covered hillsides stretch for several miles, concealing impressive monasteries and the petrified remains of a prehistoric forest. The coastal resorts of Sigro and Eressos, however, are very attractive and civilised.

To the east, the town of Agiassos is like Molyvos in reverse. This town has been built into a steep-sided valley. Steep, winding pathways lead down to quaint little shops and busy cafes but the sting in the tail is the exhausting trek back up to where you left your car. Don't let this stop you visiting, though - just make sure you leave your return walk until late afternoon or evening when the sun is going down.

Best of all is the slow pace of life on the island, where fields are still cultivated by horse and plough and the older villagers still travel by donkey. The sound of goat bells echoes through the hillsides and spectacular white storks nest on church roofs.

My most lasting memory of Lesvos in the spring is the sound of nightingales singing outside our apartment at midnight as we stood on the balcony breathing in the warm, scented air and reflecting on another excellent day's birdwatching and sight-seeing. I can't wait to go back.

Can you turn your hand to travel writing - and pass on your holiday tips to Sunday Mercury readers? Write to Travel Notes, Sunday Mercury, 28 Colmore Circus, Birmingham B46AZ - we pay for what we use.

CAPTION(S):

BEAUTIFUL TOWN... Molyvos on the north coast of Lesvos has networks of steep, cobbled streets leading up the mountainside STUNNING VIEWS... Molyvos castle overlooks the coastline and nearby Turkey