BYZANTINE GREEK CUISINE NEEDS A DASH OF CONSISTENCY.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

Here's another restaurant that doesn't bother to inform you in advance when it's out of something or has decided not to serve it that day or night.

Byzantine, a new Greek eatery on busy Brand Boulevard in the heart of Glendale, lists all the familiar, popular Greek appetizers and entrees on its menu and one really intriguing one, fried small smelts called marides ($5.95).

``Sorry, we don't have them,'' said the waiter, who hadn't a clue about their absence when he first took the order.

Byzantine does a respectable job on some of the traditional Greek dips like melitzanosalata eggplant spread ($3.95), tsadziki yogurt and cucumber sauce ($3.75), hummus chickpea dip ($3.65) and the tasty taramasalata roe mixture ($3.95). The latter resembles a puree here more than a slightly textured paste.

It doesn't take long to finish the thin, warm, delectable pita wedges, especially if you order the combo plate of dips ($7.95). There's an extra charge ($1.75 per order) if you ask for more pieces after you've eaten the initial serving.

And you might want pita accompaniment with Byzantine's above-average soups. The regular offering is avgolemono lemon-chicken recipe ($3.95), or there's a soup of the day, usually a vegetable puree (such as carrot, $4.25).

But if you measure a Greek kitchen by its lamb, pass up this one.

Roasted lamb cooked with garlic and herbs ($14.65) comes up fatty and overcooked, not particularly appetizing.

In contrast, chicken souvlaki ($12.65) possesses fine flavors, good texture and decent moisture retention.

All main-course plates tried here, both at lunch and dinner, look pretty much the same, presenting a carefully formed mound of rice pilaf and a nicely roasted half potato placed adjacent to the main ingredient at lunch, plus a somewhat listless vegetable for dinner.

The rice cannot be faulted, and the portioning leans more toward adequate than stingy, but review visits haven't indicated enough positives to suggest a change of habit when the mood for Greek food arises.

For example, spanakopita spinach pie (appetizer size, $5.35 lunch, $5.85 dinner), moussaka (lunch $10.95, dinner $12.95) and pastitsio (lunch $9.95, dinner $11.95) came forth as cut squarish rectangles, extremely hot at the heart of the insides, appearing to be reheated, but each almost tepid on the exterior.

The interior textures, especially those of the moussaka and pastitsio, were disappointingly soft and ill-defined.

Moussaka and pastitsio, being layered, casserole-style dishes like Italian lasagna, taste much better when evenly textured.

And the Byzantine kitchen's potentially great-flavored, Greek-accented angel hair dish called Macedonian pasta ($12.95 lunch, $14.95 dinner) tossed with shrimp, tomato, green onion, feta cheese, garlic, herbs and white wine also suffers from overcooked noodles that border on mushiness.

Yet it's an attractive-looking cafe sporting a small boulevard patio and a pleasantly appointed dining room with a corner stage to the left of the entrance.

Better-informed staffers, improved lamb and more evenly heated casseroles would undoubtedly elevate its status.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Byzantine Greek Cuisine.

Where: 208 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale.

When: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays and dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. nightly, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Cold appetizer combination plate of dips and spreads, avgolemono soup, chicken souvlaki.

How much: Starters from $4 to $8.65, entrees from $8 to $20, desserts from $3.50 to $4.50. Beer and wine. Major credit cards accepted.

Wine list: Limited selection of mostly Greek and Californian bottlings. Greek Montenero ($22) is a pleasant red wine accompaniment.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: One and one half stars for food; One and one half stars for service; Two stars for wine.