BY DESIGN; STUDENTS STRUT THEIR STYLE.

Byline: Story by Barbara De Witt

Call it the design pool.

The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in downtown Los Angeles is one of the largest resources for new fashion designers, so it's no wonder that talent scouts are attracted to its annual showcase party.

This year, the L.A. Fashion Gala was staged by Saks Fifth Avenue fashion consultant James Watterson at the Beverly Hilton Hotel in Beverly Hills, and he kicked the evening off with a dazzling parade of Oscar-nominated costumes. Models danced down the runway in '50s costumes from ``Pleasantville'' and Elizabethan designs from ``Shakespeare in Love,'' while other models looked more somber in styles worn in ``Beloved'' and ``Elizabeth.'' The audience pleasers, however, were the '70s-inspired rocker costumes from ``Velvet Goldmine'' that included a silver body suit trimmed with feathers and huge silver platform shoes ... worn by a guy.

Numerous designers were in attendance, including past and present Oscar winners Sandy Powell (``Shakespeare in Love'') and Debra Scott (``Titanic''). Even they were there to see glimpses of fashion's future.

Highlights of the debut collections included the Dockers Khaki's collection designed by Bonnie Kim and modeled by actress Nicholle Tom of ``The Nanny''; Sabrina Toy's sensuous evening gowns and cocktail suits; Rie Yamagishi's elaborate ice princess costume that had flags flying from the back of the model's waistband; Naomi Adachi's hip-hiding gold gown trimmed with ribbons, ruching, rosettes and ruffles; and Lauren Markus' lavender silk gown accented with a cascade of white silk flowers that was inspired by Violetta from Verdi's opera ``La Traviata.''

But there were novelty designs, too, and Jenny Szeto's carwash skirts and bubble dresses that unwrapped to become velvet ball gowns were quite imaginative, as were Amy Stewart's hip kids' designs, with children modeling to the tune of ``Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star.''

For big-girl stars who want to parade Oscar's red carpet, Yha Jeong Song presented drop-dead gorgeous gowns and stoles that later won the Fred Hayman Scholarship.

Coming-out night for up-and-coming fashion talent

THE HAPS: L.A. Fashion Gala, a major fashion fest of Oscar-nominated movie costumes and the debut of outstanding students from the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles.

LOCATION, LOCATION: The Beverly Hilton Hotel in Beverly Hills, where guests sipped ``umbrella'' drinks in a '40s club scene that included palm trees and a jazz combo before the runway show.

THE EATS: A sit-down dinner of seafood-stuffed pasta, Chateaubriand and veggies, and a gorgeous platter of pastries, including tiramisu, frosted brownies and berries.

STAR SIGHTINGS: It was an eclectic guest list, from politicos to proud parents.

Politicians included Congressman Howard ``Buck'' McKeon; Patricia McKeon, chairwoman of the House Education Subcommittee; Hollywood's honorary mayor, Johnny Grant, who played master of ceremonies; and Vincente Fox, governor of the Mexican state of Guanajuato. Retail leaders included Oscars fashion coordinator Fred Hayman and wife Betty; Levi Strauss vice president James Capon; Armand Marciano of Guess? Inc.; Shirley Wilson and James Watterson of Saks Fifth Avenue; John Schulman of Georgio Beverly Hills; and designer Michael Novarese.

Among the show-biz guests were actresses Susan Sullivan, Joan Van Ark and ``The Nanny's'' Nicholle Tom, as well as '60s singers Frankie Avalon and Frankie Valli. And lots of costume designers.

HE SAID, SHE SAID: Oscar-winning costume designer Debra Scott of Studio City said it was great to be able to celebrate future designers, referring to the FIDM students who later made their debut, but mostly she talked shop with ``Shakespeare in Love'' and ``Velvet Goldmine'' costume designer Sandy Powell, who epitomized ``creative black tie'' in her green-feathered jacket with velvet camouflage pants.

The buzz that night - that Powell would win the Oscar for best costume design - was right on target. Even her main competitor, ``Elizabeth'' designer Alexandra Byrne, seemed to agree. She said Powell's costumes in ``Shakespeare in Love'' were more true to the period than hers, adding, ``Our costumes were more stylized ... men would have been in red and ermine, but we had them in black to make Elizabeth stand out - and to work the emotions of the scene.'' She also spoke of budget restraints, commenting, ``We could only afford to embroider the front of Elizabeth's coronation gown, and then painted the sides.''

The two Frankies - Avalon and Valli - drove in together from the Valley (with their respective wives, Kay and Randy) and laughed about whose Armani tuxedo looked best. ``Actually, I don't have the fashion expertise that he has, but he gives me his hand-me-downs, since we're the same size,'' quipped Avalon, who's not only producing a new TV show called ``Let's Do It Again,'' but has an album - and CD - called ``The Good Guys'' being released next week.

TV costume designer Nolan Miller (he's known for glitz and glamour), who serves on the FIDM board of directors, commented that he's totally mystified about the direction fashion is taking. ``It's a new age in fashion,'' he said with a chuckle and shake of his head.

- Barbara De Witt

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10 Photos

Photo: (1--Color) FIDM scholarship sponsor Fred Hayman talks fashion with student Rie Yamagishi of Los Angeles.

(2--Color) Instructor Harold Harris, left, congratulates his student Sabrina Toy of Burbank for her stunning evening gown collection.

(3--Color) Yhajeong Song of Los Angeles wowed the crowd with this Oscar-worthy gown and stole.

(4--Color) Jason Lian of Venice had a touch of the Orient in his debut collection.

(5--Color) Even the linings of student Sabrina Toy's designs were noteworthy.

(6--Color) The FIDM fashion parade was led by models in arty -but unbelievably impractical -shoes.

(7--Color) FIDM student Enrique Urbina of Lynwood presented an Egyptian-inspired costume to music from Verdi's ``Aida.''

(8--Color) FIDM student Jenny Szeto of Los Angeles said her hand-painted butterfly gown was inspired by the Italian design team of Dolce & Gabbana.

(9) Oscar-winning costume designers Debra Scott, left, and Sandy Powell share a laugh at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising gala at the Beverly Hilton Hotel. A resident of Studio City, Scott won the best costume award last year for ``Titanic,'' while Powell took home this year's honors for ``Shakespeare in Love.''

(10) FIDM partygoers included Simon Shepherd, left, and his wife, Alexandra Byrne, who designed the costumes for ``Elizabeth.'' The Oscar nominee's designs were modeled on the runway during the gala, and are included in the school's seventh annual ``Art of Motion Picture Costume Design'' exhibit at the Los Angeles campus now through April 16.

Photos by Michael Owen Baker/Daily News

Box: Coming-out night for up-and-coming fashion talent (See text)