BUYERS' MARKET WE SHOP AT A LOCAL FARMERS' MARKET WITH A TOP CHEF TO HELP BRING THEIR TIPS TO YOUR TABLE.Byline: NATALIE HAUGHTON >FOOD EDITOR The bustling Santa Monica Farmers' Market, one of the largest in Los Angeles County, is routinely teeming teem 1 v. teemed, teem·ing, teems v.intr. 1. To be full of things; abound or swarm: A drop of water teems with microorganisms. 2. on Wednesdays with 50 of Los Angeles' best chefs from the city's trendiest restaurants. You might spot chefs from Fraiche, Canele, Hatfield's, Ammo, Literati literati Scholars in China and Japan whose poetry, calligraphy, and paintings were supposed primarily to reveal their cultivation and express their personal feelings rather than demonstrate professional skill. II, Melisse, La Cachette, Fraiche, A.O.C., Lucques, Spago, Rustic Canyon, Joe's, Wilshire and Saddle Peak Lodge. They're perusing, sampling, negotiating and purchasing fruits and vegetables from some of the 80 growers who come from as far away as Fresno and Stockton. "Most farms offering produce are not more than 100 acres, and some are even just 10 acres," says Laura Avery, Santa Monica Farmers' Market supervisor. "Our farmers' markets support small California farms throughout the state." We tagged along with Mark Peel, executive chef/owner of Los Angeles' Campanile restaurant on a recent morning to get a glimpse into the inner workings of a chef's market visit. Booths display fresh garbanzo garbanzo see chickpea. beans, lamb's quarters, shallots, squash blossoms, sage, chives chives alliumschoenoprasm. , rosemary, purslane purslane, common name for some plants of the Portulaceae, a family of herbs and a few small shrubs, chiefly of the Americas. The portulacas or purslanes (genus Portulaca) include many species indigenous to the United States. , Persian cucumbers, heirloom tomatoes, long beans, peaches, blackberries, blueberries, wild strawberries, concord grapes, purple cauliflower, wild arugula arugula or rocket Yellowish-flowered European herbaceous plant (Eruca vesicaria sativa), of the mustard family, cultivated for its foliage, which is used especially in salads. , potatoes, onions, asparagus and much more. Some of these treasures are destined des·tine tr.v. des·tined, des·tin·ing, des·tines 1. To determine beforehand; preordain: a foolish scheme destined to fail; a film destined to become a classic. 2. to find their way into creative dishes on restaurant menus. "I don't preorder a lot," says Peel as he makes his way through rows of produce. Although he might have a good idea of what he plans to buy, he approaches the market with an open mind -- finding the best possible fresh in-season products -- and sometimes unexpected finds for his menu offerings. "I don't always know what I'm going to make." Because his menu changes daily and there are no verbal specials, he can turn out creations with an interesting twist with the best items he finds. "Fresh garbanzos are delicious as a side," he says, opening and sampling the beans at Flora Bella Farms, where he purchases several bunches. "I love them with lamb. Pop them open and into simmering water 15 minutes, drain and toss with olive oil, garlic and fresh thyme. Or make succotash using the fresh garbanzos and corn." He continues to peruse the produce of various growers, tasting as he goes. "It doesn't really make a difference if the farmer is not certified organic (it involves a lot of paperwork to get certified), especially if you have a trusted relationship with the farmer." "About 17 of the farmers at the market are certified organic," says Avery. He also picks up haricots vert; cavaillon melons; corn-on-the-cob; heirloom baby potatoes; cranberry, purple and white beans; granex onions; English peas; and the last seven boxes of mulberries (a delicacy with lots of juice) at one stand. "Mulberries (grown on trees) have a great complexity of flavor. They are Alice Waters' favorite berry," he adds, giving them a thumbs-up after a quick taste. "Serve a bowl of them topped with creme fraiche with a butter cookie alongside." He also serves wild strawberries the same way. Peel was excited to find concord grapes this day. "I didn't know they were around yet. I love the flavor -- they remind me of my childhood a little -- Welch's grape juice," he says. "We make sorbet with them with a little bit of black pepper -- and serve it with biscotti Biscotti (plural of Italian biscotto, roughly meaning "twice baked") are crisp Italian cookies often containing nuts or flavored with anise. Traditionally, biscotti are made by baking cookie dough in two long slabs, cutting these into slices, and reheating them to dry ." Simplicity is key in preparing and serving the day's selections so the produce will shine. He tosses blanched blanch also blench v. blanched also blenched, blanch·ing also blench·ing, blanch·es also blench·es v.tr. 1. To take the color from; bleach. 2. haricots vert with shallots, toasted walnuts and mustard dressing. Cavaillon melons are served sliced as is or with prosciutto pro·sciut·to n. pl. pro·sciut·ti or pro·sciut·tos An aged, dry-cured, spiced Italian ham that is usually sliced thin and served without cooking. . The tender, sweet fava beans are made into a puree and served on sandwiches on sandwich night. He cooks the cranberry, white and purple beans separately and mixes them with a ragu of simmered pancetta pan·cet·ta n. Italian bacon that has been cured in salt and spices and then air-dried. [Italian, diminutive of pancia, belly, from Latin pantex, pantic-.] , olive oil, chicken stock or water and serves it like a minestrone topped with shaved pecorino pe·co·ri·no n. pl. pe·co·ri·nos An Italian cheese, especially Romano, made from ewe's milk. [Italian, of ewes, pecorino, from pecora, ewe, sheep, from Latin, cheese. Heirloom tomatoes are served as a vegetable or sauce for ravioli while romanesque cauliflower is blanched and seared sear 1 v. seared, sear·ing, sears v.tr. 1. To char, scorch, or burn the surface of with or as if with a hot instrument. See Synonyms at burn1. 2. and served as a vegetable, in pasta or pickled for a salad. Some of the produce items must be served within a day or two of purchase, while others have a longer shelf life -- almost a week, depending on the season. "We bring $1,700 in cash to the market each week, and sometimes we run out (as he did this day in three hours of shopping)," says Peel, who has enlisted the help of volunteer Jack Stumpf of Arcadia for the last decade to expedite shopping chores. "He is incredibly helpful," says Peel, adding that he enjoys a complementary lunch at Campanile afterward. As Peel packs his pickup truck with purchases and heads back to the restaurant on South La Brea Avenue La Brea Avenue is a prominent north/south thoroughfare in Los Angeles. After Hawthorne Boulevard intersects with Century Boulevard in Inglewood, La Brea Avenue is formed. La Brea passes north through Windsor Hills, Baldwin Hills, and Ladera Heights. , he comments on the day's discoveries. "This is 30 percent of what I use in a week. The farmers' market is where I really can find special, unusual produce. It's one of my favorite things to do all week. "In the short term, I could order most stuff from the farmers and pick it up, but then you'd miss the serendipitous ser·en·dip·i·ty n. pl. ser·en·dip·i·ties 1. The faculty of making fortunate discoveries by accident. 2. The fact or occurrence of such discoveries. 3. An instance of making such a discovery. moments of finding something new to the season, like the concord grapes today. Also, you develop a relationship with the farmers and they will call you if they have something new or are thinking about growing something (that might be of interest)." While shopping, we ran into Chris Kidder, chef at Literati II. "Close to 90 percent of the food I use per week is bought at the farmers' market on Wednesday, the best day to shop," says Kidder. Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692, natalie.haughton@dailynews.com SPOT PRAWNS WITH PEAS, ALMONDS AND OLIVES 1 pound spot prawns OR large shrimp in the shell 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/3 cup whole raw almonds, chopped Kosher OR sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon Spanish smoked paprika paprika: see pepper. 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/3 cup oil-cured olives such as Adams Olive Ranch oil-cured olives with Celtic sea salt Celtic Sea Salt is a brand of sea salt and a registered trademark in the United States, Canada, Malaysia, Austria, Benelux, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Portugal and Spain. , pitted and chopped 1 cup shelled English peas (about 1 pound in the pod) 1 ripe, red tomato, chopped Sherry vinegar Pat prawns dry. If the "veins" appear large, remove using kitchen scissors scissors Cutting instrument or tool consisting of a pair of opposed metal blades that meet and cut when the handles at their ends are brought together. Modern scissors are of two types: the more usual pivoted blades have a rivet or screw connection between the cutting ends and the tip of a knife. In a large, heavy skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add almonds and a little salt and saute sau·té tr.v. sau·téed, sau·té·ing, sau·tés To fry lightly in fat in a shallow open pan. n. A dish of food so prepared. 2 minutes. Stir in paprika and cook, stirring, until browned and fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in garlic and olives and cook, stirring, 1 minute more. Add peas, tomato and a little salt and pepper
NOTE: Santa Barbara spot prawns aren't true prawns, but a kind of sweet pink shrimp with four distinctive white spots. Cooking shrimp with their shells on adds flavor to the finished dish, even though you have to do some peeling at the table. SEARED WHITE NECTARINES WITH BURNT HONEY 2 tablespoons full-flavored honey, warmed 2 tablespoons water OR dessert wine such as muscat Muscat, Maskat, or Masqat (all: mŭs`kăt, mŭs`kət), city (1993 pop. 533,774), capital of Oman, SE Arabia, on the Gulf of Oman. It is flanked by rugged mountains. 2 teaspoons unsalted butter 4 fresh bay leaves (optional) 4 ripe nectarines OR peaches, halved and pitted Boysenberries, blackberries OR raspberries In a small bowl, stir together honey and water. Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Film pan with 1 teaspoon butter and add bay leaves. When butter sizzles and bay leaves start to blister, add 1/2 of fruit, cut side down. Cook until cut surface is browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer fruit, cut side up, and bay leaves to a platter. Repeat with remaining fruit and 1 teaspoon butter. Reduce heat to medium-low and pour honey mixture into pan. Stir, scraping up any brown bits, and then simmer until deep brown, about 2 minutes. To serve, divide fruit among dessert plates, lightly drizzle the fruit with the honey, and then scatter berries around fruit. Makes 8 servings. >FROM "THE SANTA MONICA FARMERS' MARKET COOKBOOK" BY AMELIA SALTSMAN >where to go Farmers' markets, small and large, are overflowing with a glorious array of just-harvested, high-quality farm-fresh products direct from growers. Items available vary from fresh fruits and vegetables (some organic), fresh herbs and flowers to nuts, breads, cheeses and more. For best selections and easiest parking, go early. Peruse the entire market quickly before buying to check prices and availability. BURBANK Third Street and Orange Grove (behind City Hall), 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Saturdays. CALABASAS 23504 Calabasas Road, across from the Sagebrush sagebrush, name for several species of Artemisia, deciduous shrubs of the family Asteraceae (aster family), particularly abundant in arid regions of W North America. The common sagebrush (A. Cantina, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays. ENCINO 17400 Victory Blvd. (between Balboa Boulevard and White Oak Avenue), 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sundays. GLENDALE 100 block of North Brand Boulevard (between Broadway and Wilson Avenue), 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Thursdays. NORTHRIDGE Northridge Fashion Center Northridge Fashion Center is a large shopping mall located in Northridge, California. It opened in 1971. It was severely damaged during the Northridge Earthquake in 1994, but renovated extensively in 1995 and 1998. , Tampa Avenue and Plummer Street, 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesdays (April through October). SANTA CLARITA College of the Canyons College of the Canyons is one of the fastest-growing community colleges in the state. According to the National Junior College Research Association, College of the Canyons consistently ranks in the top 50 community colleges in the nation. parking lot 8, 26455 Rockwell Road, 8:30 a.m. to noon Sundays. Downtown Newhall, San Fernando Road San Fernando Road is a major street in the city and county of Los Angeles. It starts off in Castaic as The Old Road, passing through Santa Clarita and the Newhall Pass, where upon its intersection with Sierra Highway near the junction of the Golden State (I-5) and the and Sixth Street, 3 to 7 p.m. Thursdays (April through October). SANTA MONICA Arizona Avenue and Second Street, 8:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Wednesdays. Third Street and Arizona Avenue, 8:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays. Ocean Park and Main Street, 9:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sundays. Cloverfield Avenue and Pico Boulevard, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays. SIMI VALLEY Simi Valley Town Center Simi Valley Town Center is a shopping center located in Simi Valley, California. The mall opened in 2005 with Macy's and Robinsons-May as anchor stores. The Robinsons-May store was converted into a Macy's Men and Home Store on September 9, 2006. , 1555 Simi SIMI Sea Ice Mechanics Initiative SIMI Search for Intelligent Monkeys on the Internet SIMI Students Islamic Movement in India SIMI Society of Irish Motor Industry SIMI Smallholder Irrigation Markets Initiative Town Center Way, (118 freeway at First Street), 3 to 8 p.m. Fridays (March through November). STUDIO CITY Ventura Place (near Ventura and Laurel Canyon boulevards), 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sundays. THOUSAND OAKS 403 W. Hillcrest Dr. (rooftop of Recreation & Park District Office -- formerly City Hall Building), 2 to 6:30 p.m. Thursdays. WOODLAND HILLS Kaiser Medical Center (front entrance), 5601 De Soto Ave., 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Thursdays. >N.H. Local farmers' markets are more popular than ever. "They've grown from four or five in Los Angeles County in 1981 to 100 today," says Laura Avery, Santa Monica Farmers' Market supervisor. What makes shopping at the farmers' market so appealing is the availability of locally grown fresh produce. "I buy about 80 to 90 percent of what I serve at my home from the farmers' market," says Amelia Saltsman, author of the new "The Santa Monica Farmers' Market Cookbook" (Blenheim Press; $22.95). "The fresher you eat things, the more amazing they are. When ingredients are so delicious on their own, it makes preparing a meal that much simpler. You don't need to do much to the ingredients to get them to taste great." >N.H. CAPTION(S): 14 photos, 2 boxes Photo: (1 -- 7 -- cover -- color) farm fresh Top chefs stock up on the bountiful produce available at local farmers markets (8 -- 11 -- color) Mark Peel, executive chef/owner of Campanille in L.A., peruses the fresh produce at Santa Monica Farmers' Market, sampling the offerings before deciding on his restaurant menu for the day. Photo by Hans Gutknecht>LA.com (12 -- color) no caption (cookbook: "The Santa Monica Farmers' Market Cookbook") (13 -- color) no caption (green beans) (14 -- color) Some 80 growers come from as far away as Stockton and Fresno to sell their fruits and vegetables at the Santa Monica Farmers' Market each week. Box: (1) >where to go (see text) (2) >try recipes from the farmers' market at home (see text) |
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