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BURGER BLUEPRINT RESTAURANTS HAVE JUICY TIPS ON CREATING HAMBURGERS WITH A TASTEFUL FLAIR.


Byline: NATALIE HAUGHTON

>FOOD EDITOR

The all-beef patty and special sauce concept that made one fast-food chain famous decades ago has been taken to a new level. Now that all-beef patty may be made of Kobe beef, or New York New York, state, United States
New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of
 or sirloin cuts ground and cooked to perfection, topped with a garlic aioli sauce and served on the brioche bun -- giving the longtime favorite a first-class upgrade.

At 25 Degrees, the popular 24-hour restaurant in the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel in Hollywood, the burger bar offers numerous options and serves 400 to 500 burgers on a busy day.

"In my market research, I found out the No. 1 thing male Americans eat is a hamburger followed by french fries," says chef Tim Goodell, an owner/founder of Newport-Beach-based Domaine Restaurants (Dakota, Red Pearl). For females, the order is reversed.

Goodell keeps it simple. "I didn't want 20 different high-end burgers of truffles and foie gras on the menu, so I simplified the selection to three composed burgers and a build-your-own burger"(with a selection of artisan cheeses, toppings and sauces on a ground sirloin, turkey or veggie patty).

Among the cheese choices are Red Hawk, Point Reyes blue, smoked mozzarella moz·za·rel·la  
n.
A mild white Italian cheese that has a rubbery texture and is often eaten melted, as on pizza.



[Italian, diminutive of mozza, a cut, mozzarella, from mozzare,
 and Farm House Cheddar. Extra ingredients offered include shiitaki mushrooms, caramelized onions, roasted tomatoes, sauerkraut, chili and prosciutto pro·sciut·to  
n. pl. pro·sciut·ti or pro·sciut·tos
An aged, dry-cured, spiced Italian ham that is usually sliced thin and served without cooking.
. Sauce choices (terrific on the fries and onion rings) range from garlic aioli ai·o·li  
n.
A rich sauce of crushed garlic, egg yolks, lemon juice, and olive oil.



[Provençal : ai, garlic (from Latin allium) + oli, oil (from Latin oleum
, chipotle chi·pot·le  
n.
A ripe jalapeño pepper that has been dried and smoked for use in cooking.



[American Spanish, from Nahuatl xipotli.]

Noun 1.
 and lemon dill to tarragon tarragon (târ`əgŏn), perennial aromatic Old World herb (Artemisia dracunculus) of the family Asteraceae (aster family), of the same genus as wormwood and sagebrush.  remoulade ré·mou·lade  
n.
A piquant cold sauce made with mayonnaise, chopped pickles, capers, anchovies, and herbs.



[French, from dialectal rémola, large black radish, from Latin armoracia,
, Dijon and more.

The most popular is a beef burger, topped with caramelized onions, gorgonzola and crescenza cheeses, bacon, arugula arugula
 or rocket

Yellowish-flowered European herbaceous plant (Eruca vesicaria sativa), of the mustard family, cultivated for its foliage, which is used especially in salads.
 and Thousand island dressing Thou·sand Island dressing  
n.
A salad dressing made with mayonnaise, chili sauce, and seasonings.



[Perhaps after the Thousand Islands.]

Noun 1.
. USDA USDA,
n.pr See United States Department of Agriculture.
 choice beef sirloin and chuck ground to the restaurant's specs (2/3 sirloin to 1/3 chuck) are used to make the 9-ounce patties.

"The chuck gives moisture to the burger," adds Goodell, noting that they are cooked on a flat top (a griddle) five to six minutes per side for medium.

"I'm not a huge fan of grilling (at the restaurant) because you lose lots of fat and it tends to burn the burgers. The flavor is not the same."

Goodell claims the high-end burgers have become popular because they are familiar."Everybody loves a good burger. It's always been a part of our history and our American food culture. We have tried to build the adult burger experience."

If it's mini burgers that intrigue, head to Cut restaurant or Side Bar in the Beverly Wilshire hotel, where you'll find tasty mini Kobe beef sliders sliders

a species of tortoise kept as pets. They have a black shell and a red stripe behind the eye. Called also Chrysemys scripta elegans, red-eared sliders.
 on tiny house-made brioche buns. They're popular appetizers and bar snacks.

"We use Kobe beef New York steak and grind it in a meat grinder Grinder

A slang term for a person who works in the investment industry and makes small amounts of money at a time on small investments, over and over again.

Notes:
," says Ari Rosenson, Cut's chef de cuisine.

The toasted bottom bun is layered with garlic aioli, the tiny meat patty, aged gouda, tomato confit con·fit  
n.
1. Meat, such as duck, that has been salted and then cooked and preserved in its own fat.

2. A condiment made by cooking seasoned fruit or vegetables, usually to a jamlike consistency.
, bread and butter pickles, chopped red onions, grilled shallot-jalapeno marmalade, a little ketchup, and on the top, a toasted bun. A pick holds it all together.

"These mini burgers have evolved at Cut into the ultimate slider A block of material that holds the read/write head of a magnetic disk. See flying head. ," says Rosenson, adding that 200 to 300 are served per weekend night. "People love well-made burgers in Los Angeles. We've put all the best ingredients on them and I think we've found the perfect burger. They are juicy, mouthful morsels of goodness."

At Tracht's, opened last month in Long Beach by Suzanne Tracht, chef/owner of Los Angeles' Jar restaurant, the menu features an 8-ounce ground angus beef burger on a toasted brioche bun with balsamic balsamic (bäl·sämˑ·ik),
n a substance that can soften and reduce mucus.
 vinegar-roasted red onions, watercress watercress, hardy perennial European herb (Nasturtium officinale) of the family Cruciferae (mustard family), widely naturalized in North America, found in or around water. , house-made aioli and a red heirloom tomato slice, notes Tracht's chef de cuisine Jessica Alexander.

"Sometimes a burger is just what you want -- and sometimes people are surprised you can get a burger" (in a fine dining restaurant), says Alexander. "A burger is fun -- it goes back to comfort food; it is not scary. You sort of know what you are going to get but don't know Don't know (DK, DKed)

"Don't know the trade." A Street expression used whenever one party lacks knowledge of a trade or receives conflicting instructions from the other party.
 what the twist might be." One of Los Angeles' all-time favorites, the Office Burger, can be found at Father's Office in Santa Monica. Designed by chef/owner Sang Yoon, on a friend's dare to come up with the best burger in the country, it's made with ground prime dry-aged New York and fresh chuck. The 8-ounce patties are grilled, then topped with caramelized onions, Gruyere and Maytag blue cheeses, applewood-smoked bacon and arugula and served on a soft french roll. Yoon allows no substitutions -- and no mayo, mustard or ketchup.

"The burger is so popular because it is addictive," says Yoon.

Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692,

natalie.haughton@dailynews.com

>10 to try

WOODLAND HILLS

Cheesecake Factory

6324 Canoga Ave.

(818) 883-9900

>Also in Sherman Oaks, Pasadena and other Southern California locations.

American Kobe beef with sauteed mushrooms and onions on a toasted brioche bun, $12.95 (with fries). Factory Burger with charbroiled beef patty is topped with Cheddar cheese, tomato and grilled onions and served on a sourdough french or whole wheat loaf, $9.50. Other burgers -- Classic, Tons of Fun, Double Barbecue Bacon Cheeseburger and Ranch House, $10.50 to $12.95.

BURBANK

Arnie Morton's of Chicago

2400 W. Olive Ave.

(818) 238-0402

At lunch, a prime sirloin burger is available with choice of horseradish horseradish

Hardy perennial plant (Armoracia lapathifolia) of the mustard family, native to Mediterranean lands and grown throughout the temperate zones. Its hotly pungent, fleshy root is used as a condiment and is traditionally considered medicinal.
 Cheddar, Swiss, crumbled blue or regular Cheddar cheese, and bacon, sauteed mushrooms or onions. $14.

SANTA MONICA

Father's Office

1018 Montana Ave.

(310) 393-2337; www.fathersoffice.com

This small local bar and grill offers the Office burger, one of city's favorite, best burgers. Made with prime dry-aged beef -- New York and chuck -- it is topped with caramelized onions, Gruyere and Maytag blue cheeses, applewood-smoked bacon and arugula and served on a soft french roll. No substitutions allowed. A winner at $11.

The Counter

2901 Ocean Park Blvd.

(310) 399-8383; www.thecounterburger.com.

Build a burger anyway you like for lunch or dinner at this 3-year-old restaurant with lots of meat, sauce, cheese (i.e. goat, feta fet·a  
n.
A white semisoft cheese usually made of goat's or ewe's milk and often preserved in brine.



[Modern Greek (turi) pheta, (cheese) slice, from Italian fetta, slice
, Tillamook) and topping (i.e. olives, grilled onions, mushrooms, avocado) choices. Ground beef, turkey, chicken and vegetarian burgers in 1/3-pound, 2/3 pound or 1-pound sizes available. Choose from white or wheat buns or English muffins. $7.95 to $15.

HOLLYWOOD

25 Degrees

Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel

7000 Hollywood Blvd.

(323) 785-7244

The 24-hour menu features three different set burgers on brioche buns or you can create your own from a list of various toppings, cheeses and sauces. Beef, turkey and veggie burgers, $12 to $18.

Vert

Hollywood & Highland Complex

6801 Hollywood Blvd., 4th floor

(323)491-1300.

A prime cheeseburger with grilled onions, lettuce, heirloom

tomato slices, aged Cheddar, remoulade and pickles on a homemade bun is on the menu. $15 (with fries or mixed greens).

WEST HOLLYWOOD

Red Seven by Wolfgang Puck

Pacific Design Center

700 N. San Vicente Blvd.

(310) 289-1587.

A Kobe beef burger on a sesame bun with wasabi aioli,

teriyaki ter·i·ya·ki  
n.
A Japanese dish of grilled or broiled slices of marinated meat or shellfish.



[Japanese : teri, glaze + yaki, to broil.]

Noun 1.
 onions and jalapeno Jack cheese. $13.

Ketchup

8590 Sunset Boulevard

(310) 289-8590.

This four-month-old updated retro diner serves a Hickory Burger with a beef patty with smoky Cheddar cheese, applewood n. 1. wood of any of various apple trees of the genus Malus.

Noun 1. applewood - wood of any of various apple trees of the genus Malus
apple tree - any tree of the genus Malus especially those bearing firm rounded edible fruits
 bacon and barbecue sauce on a bun for $12 (with fries); Ketchup Burger, $12; and Happy Cow (organic veggie patty), $10.

BEVERLY HILLS

Cut

Four Seasons Regent Beverly Wilshire hotel

9500 Wilshire Blvd.

(310) 276-5200.

No full-size burgers here. Just the ultra-chic and popular mini New York Kobe beef sliders (four to an order, $20) that come on brioche buns with aged gouda, confit tomatoes, bread and butter pickles, chopped red onions, grilled shallot shallot: see onion.
shallot

Mildly aromatic herbaceous plant (Allium ascalonicum) of the lily family, probably of Asiatic origin, used to flavour foods.
 jalapeno marmalade and ketchup. Also available on the rough cuts menu in Side Bar (the adjacent bar).

LONG BEACH

Tracht's

Renaissance Hotel

111 E. Ocean Blvd.

(562) 499-2533.

Features an eight-ounce ground angus beef patty served on a grilled brioche bun with balsamic vinegar roasted red onions, watercress, aioli and a red heirloom tomato slice. $14 (with fries).

>N.H.

CAPTION(S):

11 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) BUILDING A BETTER BURGER

Restaurants give and American favorite an upscale redesign

(2 -- color) Carlos Olivera, a chef at 25 Degrees at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, grills the popular #1 burger.

(3 -- color) MUSHROOM

(4 -- color) no caption (hamburger)

(5 -- color) AVOCADO

(6 -- color) PROSCIUTTO

(7 -- color) TOMATO

(8 -- color) BACON

(9 -- color) ARUGULA

(10 -- color) SAUCES

(11 -- color) CARAMELIZED ONIONS

Photos by Tina Burch>Staff Photographer

Box:

>10 to try (see text)
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Title Annotation:LA.COM
Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Date:Aug 1, 2007
Words:1374
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