BUFFET IS QUITE A DEAL FOR THOSE WHO ARE HUNGRY.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

In a restaurant facility once known for its beef Wellington, a dimly lighted echo of the past known as the Epicurean Inn in Canoga Park, comes an uncluttered, airy, completely remodeled Asian eating place called the Mandalay Bay Buffet.

Describing itself as an ``Oriental buffet restaurant,'' the Mandalay Bay promotes its fare as Japanese, Chinese and Korean style and offers an all-you-can-eat concept at the bargain prices of $5.95 for lunch and $8.95 for dinner.

There's no doubt that such value is alluring, but there are a few tips to consider if one is truly going to enjoy this bargain food.

First of all, the best deal is obviously at lunchtime, particularly because there's not a whole lot of variation between the midday and evening offerings.

Second, an early appearance (opening time is 11:30 a.m. on weekdays) by a hungry diner should ensure a greater percentage of fresher, recently prepared items, rather than some of the tired retreads one seems to find later in the day, even in many of the dinner presentations.

Mandalay puts forth 15 hot trays on its steamer buffet tables plus a couple of hot soups (miso and egg drop).

The latter aren't bad versions and, for what it's worth, you know they're going to be hot because you're serving yourself.

There are cold salad, sushi roll and dessert stations as well.

So you immediately realize one thing above all: You're not going to go hungry here.

But, you might find some of the food to be below par. Which is not to say there aren't surprisingly good dishes on occasion.

One day, for example, a fresh tray of chicken teriyaki was brought out from the kitchen nicely garnished with pineapple slices.

Cut in strips, the white chicken meat was perfectly cooked, absolutely superb in texture, moisture and taste.

However, at a later visit, the same dish had evidently been sitting for some time and its tired, dried-out characteristics put it into the lower minor leagues compared to the initial encounter.

There have been like occurrences with tempura vegetables, chicken wings and kung pao chicken.

Here's another tip: In a buffet situation, beware of trays that are less than half full.

Somewhat gloppy-sauced barbecued ribs vary widely here, actually not that bad when first presented, quite questionable when two thirds gone.

Vegetables tend to get mushy after sitting awhile, although rice dishes don't

seem to suffer as much as meat items.

Particularly impressive one day were green-lipped mussels in a light mayo sauce. They weren't available during another visit, and a dining companion said they were definitely not on his list of hits at dinner here the night before.

Mainstream-style sushi rolls, though, are replenished constantly and don't appear to suffer much, even though they're not particularly cold where displayed.

And there's usually a smattering of passable, chilled fruit pieces and Jell-O for dessert.

Mandalay Bay could be termed a haven for the hungry.

And I guess one really shouldn't complain too much these days about a place where you can stuff yourself for less than $10.

MANDALAY BAY BUFFET

Where: 7625 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park.

Phone: [phone].

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays, for dinner from 5 to 9:30 p.m. nightly and from 11:30 a.m. Saturday, Sunday and holidays.

Recommended items: Whatever is freshly prepared on the buffet.

How much: Lunch $5.95 (weekdays only), lunch (weekends and holidays) and dinner $8.95. No alcohol. AE, MC, V.

Our rating: One and one half stars for food; three stars for value.