BRYN'S GAMBLE; He's the new owner of famed London restaurant Odette's... now he plans to build a culinary empire that will one day bring him home to North Wales.

Byline: By DARREN DEVINE

HE has spent years learning his craft under the ever watchful eyes of some of the industry's biggest names like Marco Pierre White and Michel Roux jnr.

But now Denbigh chef Bryn Williams is putting the culinary wisdom gathered through years of 16-hour days in some of the country's most demanding kitchens to the ultimate test.

Last October Bryn bought the iconic Primrose Hill restaurant Odette's from previous owner Vince Power with the help of a pounds 500,000 bank loan and more than pounds 50,000 in life savings.

Now as others struggle with the country's mounting economic woes Bryn knows he must make this vital first venture prosper.

Since opening in 1978, Odette's had developed a reputation as an elite eaterie for the movers and shakers in the arts and theatre community.

But 31-year-old Williams, whose profile has recently been boosted by his relationship with former Texas front woman Sharleen Spiteri, is aiming to broaden its appeal.

The chef said: "People used to think I owned the place anyway so when I bought it I wanted to put my stamp on it and make a real change.

"We used to have a three-course ala-carte menu for pounds 42.50.

"The first thing I did was to individually price everything so it brought the average price down by about pounds 6 per head.

"Now if people just want to come and have a main course and a glass of wine and leave they can."

He's made similar alterations to his lunch menu as well as refurbishing the bar.

"Before I bought it the restaurant was part of a big group (VPMG) with big overheads," added Bryn.

"But now I call it family run because my dad (Eifion) shoots game for me at home in North Wales."

While training at Llandrillo College, in Rhos-on-Sea, Williams worked at Colwyn Bay's Cafe Nicoise to complement his studies with real world experience.

Cafe Nicoise's chef Carl Swift had learnt his trade in London and encouraged Williams to do the same by applying for the job under Pierre White's tutelage.

A spell with Roux jnr at Le Gavroche was followed by three years at the Orrery before he spent just three months at the Galvin and moved on to Odette's.

Williams said though he often found himself working for very little at some of the country's biggest name restaurants the real value lay in the experience gained.

After fulfilling his ambition by buying Odette's, Bryn's profile, and in turn his business, has been boosted by media interest in his relationship with 41-year-old Spiteri.

The couple met at Odette's over a year ago and Williams says despite divergent schedules and a 10-year-age gap the relationship is strong.

He said: "It's good. I'm working away and she's working away.

"We've been seeing each other about a year and we're both working hard and we're both happy in what we're doing."

However his newfound status as a fledgling celebrity chef has as much to do with his own efforts as his love life.

Following his stint on the Great British Menu, Bryn's media work has steadily increased.

He's involved in the fourth series of the Great British Menu and makes regular appearances as the guest chef on shows like the BBC's Saturday Kitchen and Sky's Market Kitchen.

Bilingual Williams also frequently features on S4C's Casa Dudley.

Alongside Dudley Newbury Bryn helps select Welsh amateur chefs to be taken to a different country each year to develop their skills.

But before the TV executives began showing an interest, the path that would lead him to Odette's started way back in Denbigh, where mechanic Eifion still lives with his doctor's receptionist mother Gwenda.

It was while a primary school pupil at Ysgol Twm o'r Nant, in Denbigh, that the seeds of his passion for food were sown.

"We went to a local bakery and it all stems from that day. Just seeing raw ingredients water, flour, yeast and a bit of fat being developed into a loaf of bread and being able to eat it at the end - I was hooked.

"Something was triggered in my mind there."

Williams would spend five years working at the bakery between the ages of 12 and 17 on weekends and in school holidays.

Fast forward a couple of decades and Williams has come to be regarded as one of the brightest culinary talents to emerge from Wales.

And with Welsh catering still reeling after one of only two Michelin starred restaurants here recently lost the coveted status Williams is now something of a lonely flag-bearer for our culinary talent.

But it's a burden he's not yet feeling.

Around 40% of the ingredients he uses are sourced from Wales and Bryn added: "I don't find there's any real responsibility about using Welsh food.

"I use it because it's good. I don't feel I have to use it. Nothing's going to go on the menu just because it's Welsh.

His enthusiasm for Welsh food extends to an ambition to develop business interests here.

He said: "First and foremost Odette's has to work and it's all about getting through this sticky patch.

"Eventually I would like to open something in North Wales with somebody, whether it's a consultancy or putting my name to something."

CAPTION(S):

Bryn in his kitchen at Odette's (main, right) and one of his former tutors, Marco Pierre White (bottom); Bryn's girlfriend Sharleen Spiteri