BRITISH PUB NEEDS MORE SPEED.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

Having a friendly pub in the neighborhood where locals can drop in and sip a pint or two and enjoy some hearty pub grub fits the Studio City scene like a glove.

Only a few steps away on Ventura Boulevard from Residuals, the show-biz bar and hangout for actors and others in the entertainment industry, the new Fox and Hounds appears to have quickly caught the attention of the same clientele.

And why not? Its owner is Britisher Gary Richards, who doubles as an assistant director on film and television projects.

Richards and everyone on staff seem hospitable and attentive, as they should be.

However, the ability of the kitchen to handle a full house wasn't yet there a week after its debut.

The food, when it eventually arrives, is pretty good. In fact, it's everything you'd desire from an English-style tavern of this sort.

But blimey mate, you shouldn't have to blooming well wait for over an hour for your entree, under practically any conditions.

Professionals in a kitchen should know how to produce menu items faster, even in a brand new facility, even with food made from scratch.

An apologetic waitress, trying to excuse the kitchen by putting some of the blame on herself, insisted on buying our table a round of beers while we waited one evening, which was all right on that particular night because we were in no hurry.

But what if we had made plans to be somewhere else within a couple of hours of entering the pub?

We'd never have made it.

At a previous visit, before the word got around about the opening, fewer patrons were in the dining room, but still there was confusion about what was ordered. Yet the dishes were cooked and delivered within an understandable period of time.

On that night, a soup du jour, cream of mushroom ($4.50) was nicely made, as were the fish and chips ($8.95) and the house mixed grill ($9.95).

The latter may be the best dish on the menu, particularly if you're a meat fancier.

It consists of two lean, thick rashers of English-style bacon, a neatly browned banger, a small piece of tender filet mignon steak, a grilled kidney and a little lamb cutlet. There's also grilled tomato and a choice of potato - the kitchen makes good, crisp fries (chips) and serves a generous heap of mashed or a fair-sized baked spud.

In the expected British manner, you'll often receive peas with your entree, sometimes cauliflower, both respectably prepared.

And there's always plenty on the plate. You won't leave here hungry.

From the highest-priced items, such as buttery pan-fried, bone-in Dover sole ($12.95) or a tender, flavorful rack of lamb chops ($11.95), to pub grub like steak, onion and mushroom pie ($8.95) with the meat and vegetables swathed in a rich red wine sauce, served oven-hot under a covering of fluffy filo-type dough, the food is admirably savory and satisfying.

As long as you have time and patience.

Other dishes tried and deemed worthy are the bangers and mash ($7.95), a Cornish pasty stuffed with tender beef and vegetables ($7.95) and a filling version of shepherd's pie ($8.95). Even an inoffensive plate of moist chicken chunks in a creamy curry sauce with white rice ($8.50) seems appropriate and enjoyable here.

Only a wedge of apple pie ($3.75) had been available from the endings list during review visits. It has a commendable homey quality. Ask for it hot, and you'll get it warm. But not in a hurry.

And the expected pot of tea ($1.50) turns out to be a cup and tea bag options. Naughty! Naughty!

The restaurant: Fox and Hounds.

Where: 11100 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

When: Open for breakfast from 7 to 11:30 a.m. Saturday and Sunday only; for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily, for dinner from 5 to 9:30 p.m. nightly.

Recommended items: Soup, fish and chips, bangers and mash, Cornish pasties, steak and mushroom pie, pan-fried Dover sole, rack of lamb with a cranberry and whiskey sauce, mixed grill (bacon, filet mignon, kidney, banger, lamb cutlet), apple pie.

How much: Starters from $4 to $5, entrees from $8 to $13, desserts $3.75 each. Full bar. AE, MC, V.

Wine list: Although the emphasis here is understandably on beer (10 taps, 25 bottles or cans), a small wine list provides five whites by the bottle ($16 to $26), seven reds ($15 to $26), one champagne ($55) and five wines by the glass ($3.75 each).

Reservations: Not as a rule. Advised for large parties. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three Stars for food; One Star for service; Two Stars for wine.

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Photo: Chef Jamie Kemp, left and owner Gary Richards offer British pub fare at Fox and Hounds in Studio City.

Tom Mendoza/Daily News