BRINGING BACK BOHEMIA; FRINGE, FEATHERS, BEADS LEAD HIPPIE CHIC REVIVAL.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Fashion Editor

When Sir Arthur Conan Doyle wrote ``Scandal in Bohemia,'' he wasn't referring to bohemian fashion, but the new-again fashion stance does have tongues wagging.

Fashion critic Mr. Blackwell hates it.

``It's fine if you're a gypsy, but when all that color takes over, you can't see who's wearing it . . . and who wants to look like they're going to a costume party,'' he quips.

But it's those severely Plain Jane looks we've had for so many years that have caused the backlash, says Maggie Murray, costume curator at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles.

``In the end, fashion bores itself and causes us to look for something fun to brighten our lives,'' Murray said. ``And this year it's the bohemian babe.''

The last time we saw this much bold mixing of colors and textures was in the late '60s and early '70s, when flower children and hippies shed their ladylike suits and panty girdles for braless blouses, embroidered jeans, granny dresses and love beads.

Leading their gypsy caravan were Cher and Yves St. Laurent, the designer who turned peasant costumes into haute couture.

But the role model then - and now - was TV's original hippie chick ``Rhoda,'' portrayed by Valerie Harper.

``She was shaking up the uptight fashions of the era with her funny head wrap and layers of long, loose, colorful bohemian-inspired clothes that she actually wore to work as a window dresser,'' Murray recalls.

Rhoda's wardrobe symbolized the kind of change in style and lifestyle that young people are learning more about in current TV sitcoms such as ``Dharma & Greg'' and ``That '70s Show.''

Says ``That '70s Show'' star Laura Prepon, ``I think the best part about the '70s was that people weren't as worried about stuff.

I liked the clothes they wore, like the bohemian look. It's awesome, especially the feathers and beads. But not the tight polyester stuff,'' she says, referring to the disco fashions at the end of the decade.

Although Prepon grew up in the grunge generation, and has a penchant for utility-chic khaki pants with zippers, she discovered the charm of bohemian style with a saucy pink peasant top.

It's young women like her, says Halston designer Kevan Hall, who are fueling the bohemian trend.

``If you think about it, they've never lived through a colorful era like their mothers did, so the bohemian look is really new.

And older women, well, they're bored with recent fashion and have been wanting color in their wardrobes for a long time,'' says the Encino-based designer.

The bohemian style's popularity is based on color and creativity, and works best when it has a handcrafted look, when ordinarily plain-looking jeans, skirts and sweaters are embellished with embroidery, beads, fringe, bands of ribbon, patchwork or tiny mirrors.

Although the look is exotic with touches of the Orient and India, it's got an L.A. edge.

California Designer of the Year William B. earned his recent title with a collection of leopard and pony print skirts that had hemlines dripping with beaded fringe and paired with snug sweaters in eyebrow-raising shades of orange, pink and turquoise.

While he's certainly a front runner, he's not alone.

Others in the gypsy camp include ABS, Buzz 18, Eduardo Lucero, Trina Turk and Estevan Ramos, plus veteran designer Carole Little, who's never given up her flower child fantasy. Little's fall collection looks fresher than ever with rich velour pants and tube skirts topped by gauzy black peasant tops embroidered with big pink roses; and she's got more of the bohemian look for spring 2000.

Even conservative designer David Dart has acknowledged the bohemian spirit with a fall collection of velvet dresses, pants and jackets that create the perfect canvas for the season's bounty of accessories - from fringed scarves to beaded chokers and chandelier earrings.

Now, Mr. Blackwell might be right about the fashion trend being campy, but then going to camp is supposed to be fun.

Our model

Name: Laura Prepon

Stars in: ``That '70s Show'' (8:30 p.m. Tuesdays on Fox) as tomboy Donna Pinciotti.

Born in: Watchung, N.J.

Lives in: Los Angeles.

Sun sign: Pisces.

Personal stats: 5 feet 9 inches tall; wears size 10.

Marital status: ``Hey, I'm only 19. Put down that I'm single but seeing someone.''

Favorite Valley hangout: The Coffee Bean in Studio City.

Favorite food: Jack in the Box spicy chicken.

Favorite designers: Calvin Klein and Prada. ``But I love Gucci handbags.''

Favorite movie: ``Anything with Harrison Ford.''

Favorite band: Stereolab.

Favorite fan mail: ``Letters asking me to the prom. They said they'll pay for a plane ticket and everything. One kid sent a picture; he wasn't bad looking!''

Advice for teens: ``It's a good idea to be busy when you're growing up. It broadens your horizon. I used to do a lot of sports, such as dancing, tennis and ice skating.''

Current hobby: Horseback riding. ``I'm learning how to jump.''

Next project: An independent film to be released in mid-2000. ``It's a romance, and I play the younger sister who's really cool and doesn't take crap from anybody.''

- Barbara De Witt

New Bohemia

To pull off the Bohemian look, add these details to your wardrobe:

Ethnic and animal prints.

Layers of bright colors.

Ponchos and fringed shawls.

Fitted denim jackets over bustle skirts.

Stacks of bracelets and rings.

Embroidered and beaded trims.

Scarf tied around the head.

Jeans and peasant tops.

Feather and mirror accents.

Luxurious mix of fabrics.

Garnet-colored lips and nails.

Smoky eyes and bindi body art.

- Barbara De Witt

CAPTION(S):

5 Photos, 2 Boxes

Photo: (1--Cover--Color) On the cover: Laura Prepon of ``That '70s Show'' in drawstring velour sweater by Carole Little from Bloomingdale's at Fashion Square, Sherman Oaks. Hair by Alex Dizon for Timothy Priano; makeup by Garret Gervais for Versace/Visage of Los Angeles.

(2--Color) Prepon goes for bohemian elegance in a William B. brocade skirt with beaded fringe, topped with a silk-and-cashmere blend sweater, available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Beverly Hills.

(3--Color) For that retro hippie-chick look, feather-trimmed pants and faux suede halter top by Bisou Bisou, with stack of bracelets and bangles, all from Bloomingdale's.

(4--Color) For the club scene, Prepon tops her ball gown skirt by Laundry with a fuchsia string-back bustier by Bisou Bisou and denim jacket by Guess?, all from Bloomingdale's.

(5--Color) Tassel-trimmed sarong and sweater by William B. Available at Saks Fifth Avenue, topped with a silk velvet scarf from Frederic Fekkai, Beverly Hills.

Photos by David Crane

Box: (1) Our model (See text)

(2) New Bohemia (See text)