BRING LE PAIN STUDIO CITY'S NEWEST BAKERY-CAFE GOES BEYOND EVERYDAY EXPECTATIONS.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

BAKERY-CAFES seem to be springing up all over the place.

They're the latest of the emerging chain concepts in the restaurant industry.

One of them, Panera by name, is going strong in the heart of Studio City.

And now a short drive west in the same community comes Le Pain Quotidien with a Belgian accent and a definite organic emphasis.

Call it ``LPQ'' if you have trouble with its French name.

And if you like it and do a little traveling around Los Angeles, you may want to note that there are now six LPQs in this area - one in the Valley, five on the Westside (Beverly Hills, Brentwood, West Hollywood, Santa Monica and Westwood).

So far, though, only the Melrose Avenue location in West Hollywood actually serves dinner dishes.

Basically, LPQ is a breakfast, lunch and snack place specializing in sandwiches (tartines), salads, soups (one hot, one cold) and pastries.

It has a pleasant, rustic informality in its looks and furnishings, even a long, communal table.

I like the gazpacho (cup $4.95, bowl $6.95) here. It's cool, refreshing and served with crunchy, house-baked organic breads - although it needs a little salt and pepper to heighten its flavors.

The sandwiches look and taste quite good most of the time. They're all served open-face and seem more substantial than the composed equivalents at lower price elsewhere.

My preferences run to curried chicken salad ($8.95), prettily arranged with a harissa cranberry chutney accompaniment, and sliced roast beef ($8.95) with a wild caper mayonnaise.

Traditional quiche lorraine ($9.95) tastes fresh and creamy and provides a diversion from the comprehensive sandwich list.

And there's a Tuscan platter (assiette Toscane, $11.50) that features liltingly fresh ricotta cheese, a deep green pesto spread or dip, tart sun-dried tomatoes, thin-sliced prosciutto, shaved dry parmesan of decent quality and an assortment of LPQ's organic breads.

It seems a shame that the restaurant to date carries no wines (or beers) to accompany this platter. Until its beer and wine license is approved, beverages are confined to waters, sodas, organic coffees, teas and juices.

My choice one warm, sunny day: a double iced cappuccino ($4.50).

Perhaps not as personally gratifying as a glass of chilled white wine, like an albarino or sauvignon blanc.

But not bad, either.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN

Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars

Where: 13045 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

Phone: [phone].

Meals/hours: Open for breakfast, lunch, early dinner and snacks from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily.

Food type: Belgian bakery-cafe.

Cost: Sandwiches from $8.75 to $13.50, salads and specialty platters from $10.50 to $15.50, desserts from $3 to $6.50.

Credit cards: AE, MC, V.

Patio dining: A few sidewalk tables.

Parking/valet: Small lot, no valet.

Full bar: No.

Wine/corkage: Wine and beer license pending. Corkage: $8 (when license approved).

Music/entertainment: None.

Takeout/delivery: Takeout service, no delivery.

Reservations: Not taken. First come, first served.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2) Among the fare offered at Le Pain Quotidien in Studio City: a tuna salad sandwich with black olive tapenade and roasted red peppers, above, and a trio of desserts including a mixed berry tart, a peach tart and a mini chocolate mousse.

David Sprague/Staff Photographer