BREAK WITH TRADITIONS FOR DAZZLING BRIDAL SHOWER BUFFET.

Byline: Cathy Tomas Orange County Register

If taffeta gowns graced with yards of white tulle monopolize your friend's conversation, or if daily updates on the price of satin runners, rose petals and wedding bands make your pal's eyes sparkle, you may be planning an at-home bridal shower in the next couple of months.

Sure, you want to make it a special occasion, but remember the whole idea is to have a good time - to bring people together for good food and conversation. OK, gifts, too.

Just because bridal showers burst with preconceived notions of parlor games and formal finger sandwiches doesn't mean you can't tweak tradition to meet your personality. If you're a sweat-shirt-and-jeans kinda person, skirted tables draped in pink organza may give you the willies. But mismatched china and crystal collected at garage sales can be the centerpiece of a great buffet table. Antique tins or rustic baskets lined with napkins can serve as containers for biscuits and breads. Funky silverware with plastic handles and casual flowers can help brighten the mood.

Whether a formal or casual theme is your style, unless you have a lot of help and plenty of room, you'll probably opt to serve buffet style. If space is tight, set up mini-buffets in different areas of the house or yard.

``When you serve at food stations in different areas or rooms,'' writes Don Ernstein in his book ``The Complete Party Book'' (Viking, 1994; $24.95), ``the flow works better and people aren't crowded together. For instance, if the party takes place mainly in the living room, set up food areas in the kitchen or dining area as well as the living room. You may want to serve beverages in one place, food in another and dessert and coffee in yet another station.''

Plan a menu that can be prepared ahead, so you're not exhausted on the day of the shower. Whether serving four or 40, keep the menu simple. It's far more impressive to serve a few delicious, thoughtfully presented dishes than a hodgepodge of several dishes.

And unless you have enough room for every guest to be seated at a table, plan dishes that don't require a knife.

Start with a few colorful appetizers. French Bread Stuffed With Smoked Salmon and Leeks is a scrumptious start. Slice loaves of French bread (baguettes) partway through and fill them with sauteed leeks. Heat them until they're toasty and place thin slices of salmon between each slice. Prepare the leek filling one or two days in advance and refrigerate it. Assemble the appetizers about an hour before your guests arrive and heat them just before serving.

Remember, you don't have to make everything yourself. Glorious takeout appetizers are sold at specialty markets, restaurants, gourmet delis and bakeries. Middle Eastern markets and Asian takeouts often provide incredible appetizers. Ask them if you can bring your own serving platter, bowls or baskets for them to arrange.

When serving buffet style, remember to make plenty of food. Your idea of a single serving might be very different from that of a starving guest. It's better to have too much food and be faced with leftovers than be embarrassed by too little.

A duet of salads - Chicken Salad With Potatoes, and Spinach and Pecorino Salad - combine to make a colorful entree. They can be served on separate platters, or the chicken salad can be in the center of a very large platter and surrounded with the bright green spinach salad.

This chicken salad is not the traditional concoction of mayo and chicken. Chunks of cooked chicken are tossed with wedges of cooked Yukon gold potatoes, celery and sweet onion. Yes, the dressing is mayonnaise-based, but it is zipped up with pureed roasted garlic, Dijon-style mustard and white-wine vinegar. I like to use half reduced-fat mayonnaise and half real mayonnaise, to keep my conscience and my palate in balance.

The Spinach and Pecorino Salad is made with mounds of fresh, baby spinach - the kind you buy cleaned and ready to use in a plastic bag. Pecorino is a tasty Italian cheese, often referred to as Pecorino Romano. It's cut into small dice and combined with an herby vinaigrette. The cheese and herbs complement the spinach beautifully.

To accompany the salads, either purchase some dense, rustic breads or rolls or prepare some Parmesan, Black Pepper and Pine Nut Biscuits. These biscuits will keep for two days in an airtight food container, but they're better served the same day they're baked.

You can refrigerate logs of raw dough for up to two days before baking. Or, raw dough can be frozen up to a month.

Fresh berries - strawberries with long stems or a compote of blueberries, sliced strawberries and blackberries - make a splashy yet simple dessert. Drizzle on a little orange liqueur, if you like.

Accompany the berries with a basket of cookies. Lemon Sighs are a simple cookie (if you have an electric mixer) made with meringue, toasted almonds and lemon peel. They can be prepared a week in advance.

Not just for bridal showers, this menu will work for all types of spring and summer gatherings. Here are the recipes.

Bridal Shower Menu French Bread Stuffed With Smoked Salmon and Leeks

Chicken Salad With Potatoes

Spinach and Pecorino Salad

Parmesan, Black Pepper and Pine Nut Biscuits

Lemon Sigh Cookies

Fresh Berries

SPINACH AND PECORINO SALAD

1 cup roughly chopped walnuts

1/3 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 

2 tablespoons minced oregano 

2 tablespoons minced parsley

1/8 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

1 large clove garlic, minced

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3/4 pound Pecorino cheese, cut into 1/4-inch cubes (see Note)

14 ounces baby spinach in a bag

Salt and pepper to taste

To toast nuts, place in a single layer on a baking sheet and place in middle of preheated 350-degree oven about 5 minutes. Watch nuts carefully because they burn easily. Cool.

In a medium bowl, combine wine, vinegar, oregano, parsley, pepper flakes and garlic; stir to blend. Stir with a fork while adding olive oil in a thin stream. Add cheese and walnuts; stir. Let stand at room temperature at least 30 minutes or refrigerate up to 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving.

For individual servings, place 1 mound of spinach on individual plates and place 1 spoonful of cheese mixture in center. For tossed version, place spinach in a large bowl, add cheese mixture and toss. When ready to serve, season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

NOTE: Asiago can be substituted for Pecorino cheese. They are sold at supermarkets that have large specialty cheese sections.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 262 calories; 21 grams fat; 21 milligrams cholesterol; 524 milligrams sodium.

FRENCH BREAD STUFFED WITH SMOKED SALMON

AND LEEKS

1 loaf French bread, about 20 inches long and 2 1/2 inches in diameter

6 tablespoons olive oil OR more as needed 

6 tablespoons unsalted butter OR more as needed

2 cups chopped leeks including 2 inches of green leaves

1 teaspoon dried dill

Salt and pepper to taste

10 to 12 ounces smoked salmon, thinly sliced

Sprigs fresh dill

Slice bread on diagonal into 1/2-inch slices, cutting almost but not quite all the way through loaf.

In a medium skillet over medium heat, heat olive oil and butter until butter melts. Stir to mix and remove from heat. Generously brush mixture over top and sides of loaf and on each slice. There should be about 1/4 cup of mixture left in skillet. If not, add equal amount of additional oil and butter to make 1/4 cup.

Heat reserved oil and butter until hot. Add leeks and cook on medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add dried dill and cook 1 minute. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper.

Place loaf of bread on a baking sheet. Spoon some leek mixture between each slice. Bread can be prepared to this point 1 hour ahead of serving; cover loosely with foil and keep at room temperature.

Bake loaf uncovered in preheated 350-degree oven on center rack 5 minutes or until heated and crust is crispy. Remove from oven and insert thin slice of smoked salmon between each slice of bread. Return to oven 2 to 3 minutes, just to warm salmon.

Place warm loaf on a long, narrow wooden board or a large serving platter. Cut all the way through loaf to separate slices. Serve each slice topped with salmon and leeks. Garnish with sprigs fresh dill. Makes about 40 slices.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SLICE: 78 calories; 4.5 grams fat; 7 milligrams cholesterol; 142 milligrams sodium.

From ``First Impressions'' by Betty Rosbottom, William Morrow.

LEMON SIGHS 1/4 cup blanched almonds

2 egg whites

1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar 

1/4 teaspoon vanilla

1/8 teaspoon almond extract

2/3 cup powdered sugar

2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

Spread almonds on a baking sheet. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven about 15 minutes, tossing occasionally, until lightly browned. Watch nuts carefully because they burn easily. If using slivered almonds, they will brown more quickly. Cool nuts. Chop coarsely.

Reduce oven temperature to 250 degrees F.

Beat egg whites with an electric mixer until foamy. Add cream of tartar and beat 30 seconds. Add vanilla and almond extracts; beat 30 seconds on high speed. Add powdered sugar, about 1 1/2 tablespoons at a time, beating on high speed 30 seconds after each addition. Blend often with a rubber spatula. Gently fold in lemon peel and almonds.

Using a rubber spatula to dislodge mixture, drop tablespoons of meringue onto a nonstick or parchment paper-lined baking sheet to form 12 mounds.

Bake at 250 degrees F 1 1/2 hours. Turn off oven and leave several hours or overnight. Can be stored in an airtight container up to 1 week. Makes 12 cookies.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER COOKIE: 42 calories; 1.5 grams fat; 0 cholesterol; 10 milligrams sodium.

Adapted from ``Ready When You Are'' by Elizabeth S. Colchie, Crown.

CHICKEN SALAD WITH POTATOES

DRESSING:

1 head roasted garlic (see Note)

1 3/4 cups mayonnaise OR reduced-fat mayonnaise

1/4 cup Dijon-style mustard

1/4 cup white-wine vinegar

Black pepper to taste

SALAD:

3 (1/4-inch-thick) slices pancetta, diced (optional)

2 pounds Yukon gold OR yellow Finn potatoes, smallest possible,

OR baby white rose potatoes, halved OR quartered

Water

Pinch salt

1 to 2 sweet onions, such as Walla Walla, finely diced

6 cups cubed cooked and cooled chicken

1 1/2 cups sliced celery

Butter lettuce

1 bunch chives, chopped

For dressing, place roasted garlic in a food processor fitted with metal blade; process until smooth. Add remaining dressing ingredients and process until blended.

For salad, if using pancetta, place in a small skillet. Cook on low heat until brown and crisp. Drain on paper towels.

Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with water by 2 inches; add salt. Bring to a boil; boil until potatoes are tender. Drain and rinse with cold water. Drain again and set aside. When cool enough to handle, cut in halves or quarters, depending on size. Place in a large bowl and toss with dressing. Add remaining ingredients including pancetta and toss. Cover and chill.

Line a platter with butter lettuce. Place salad on top and garnish with chives. Or, place on a large platter and surround with Spinach and Pecorino Salad. Or take a huge purple or savoy cabbage and pull out center and reserve leaves. Fill cabbage cavity with salad. Place in center of a large platter. Surround with overlapping reserved cabbage leaves. Place any remaining salad on surrounding leaves. Garnish with radishes and baby ears of corn. Makes 12 servings.

NOTE: To roast garlic, cut top off garlic (pointed end) to expose each clove. Keep head intact and place in a small, ovenproof dish (cut side up). Drizzle with 2 teaspoons olive oil. Cover with foil. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 20 minutes. Remove foil and bake an additional 20 minutes. Cool. Pinch cloves to remove garlic from papery covering or use a small fork to pluck it out.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 467 calories; 32 grams fat; 82 milligrams cholesterol; 346 milligrams sodium.

PARMESAN, BLACK PEPPER AND PINE NUT BISCUITS

1/2 cup pine nuts, roughly chopped

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 egg, beaten

In a small skillet, toast nuts on medium heat, about 4 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent burning, until golden brown. Cool.

In a large bowl, mix butter and Parmesan. Add pine nuts. In a medium bowl, whisk flour, salt and pepper. Add to cheese mixture and stir just until blended. Add egg and stir just until blended.

Shape dough into a log about 1 1/4 inches in diameter and roll up in wax paper or plastic wrap. Roll along countertop to make dough rounded. Refrigerate until dough is firm, about 2 hours.

Cut dough log into 1/4-inch slices. Place 1 inch apart on 2 ungreased baking sheets.

Bake in 350-degree oven about 15 minutes, until golden brown. Transfer to cooling rack.

Baked biscuits keep well for 2 days in an airtight food container. You can refrigerate the log of raw dough up to 2 days before baking. Or raw dough can be frozen up to 1 month. Makes about 4 dozen.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER BISCUIT: 45 calories; 3.5 grams fat; 10 milligrams cholesterol; 55 milligrams sodium.

Adapted from ``Simply Elegant'' by Food and Wine Books, American Express Publishing.

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Photo

Photo: (Color) Chicken Salad With Potatoes paired with Spin ach and Pecorino Salad makes a festive buffet entree for a special bridal shower.

Mark Rightmire/Orange County Register