BRAZIL.

FROM THE MEANDERING, MYSTERI-ous Amazon to the hurry-scurry of its cities, Brazil is another world, a world of mythical dimensions. Occupying almost half of South America's landmass, this fifth-largest country in the world has its own rhythms, culture and language, Portuguese inflected with idioms from its African and Indian roots. Brazil's unique position is perhaps best exemplified by its Carnaval, a five-day-long street party with samba parades, spectacular floats and revelers dressed in even more spectacular costumes.

Major business cities are Sao Paulo. Rio de Janeiro and Belo Horizonte. The seat of government and policymaking is Brasilia. Other important cities are Manaus, Salvador, Curitiba and Belem. Many states have offered advantages in terms of credit lines, tax cuts and land in order to attract industries such as automobile plants and shoe factories. That has created new frontiers of investment, especially in Ceara, Parana and Bahia states, where salaries are lower than in Sao Paulo and Rio.

Brazil has become more dangerous in recent years, with petty criminals targeting tourists, especially around hotels and nightclubs in the evening. At Sao Paulos international airport, be careful with your briefcase and carry-on luggage.

Also note that Brazil is one of the few countries in Latin America that requires U.S. visitors to obtain a visa before arrival.

SAO PAULO

Cosmopolitan, chic, frenzied and sometimes violent, Sao Paulo has the hum of New York and the skyscrapers to match. Since the start of the century, immigrants from Italy, Portugal, Spain, Germany and Japan, as well as from other regions of Brazil, have turned Sao Paulo from a sleepy Jesuit mission into the biggest city in South America and the developing world's largest industrial park. Today, it is the industrial and financial center of Brazil and also of Mercosur, the economic bloc that unites the country with Argentina, Uruguay and Paraguay. It is Latin America's most important convention city.

People from all over the country come to shop in Sao Paulo, and many shopping streets specialize in different products. The city, famed for its nightlife, is also the cultural center of Brazil, offering 100 theaters, 47 museums and cultural centers and more than 200 art galleries. You'll find a smorgasbord of gastronomy, with some 40 ethnic and regional cuisines available, such as dishes from China, India, Korea, Scandinavia and Arabian countries, among others. Not to mention the immense variety of Italian specialties, which is not surprising, since many Paulistanos (natives of Sao Paulo) boast an Italian background; even their accents have an Italian lilt.

Sao Paulo also offers some unusual sights, such as the Institute Butanta, which exhibits 400 snakes of 40 different species; Simba Safari, a drive-through zoo where tigers, lions and other animals roam free; and the Oriental district of Liberdade, with its Japanese, Chinese and Korean restaurants.

Sao Paulo hosts 70,000 events each year, from professional conventions and international trade fairs to art exhibits, concerts, marathons, sports tournaments, plays and musical shows. People from all over the world attend these conventions. It is ranked 27th among world convention cities by the International Congress and Convention Association. Its Anhembi Complex is the largest business conference center in Latin America and the fifth-largest in the world.

For all its immensity, Sao Paulo is not unfriendly. Non-Portuguese speakers armed with a phrasebook, a little Spanish or a knack for sign language will find most Paulistanos are ready to help.

Because of the city's size and traffic jams, it can take considerable time to travel between appointments. To combat pollution, driving is restricted in central areas on some days, depending on the last digit of your license plate. The secure and efficient subway system (the Metro) will help you avoid traffic. Taxi service is very good and not expensive.

Try to schedule meetings geographically close together, bearing in mind that the city has basically three centers. The first is downtown, where you can find the BOVESPA and BM&F. The second stretches across Avenida Paulista, where institutional trading houses surround the city's Central Bank headquarters. The third is still under development. To get away from the congestion and high-rent district near Avenida Paulista, multinationals such as Deutsche Bank have set up shop on the Marginal Pinheiros.

Paulistanos wear conservative business attire for most occasions. Dark suits and cocktail dresses are suggested for formal events. Personal contacts count. Try to relax, and don't expect punctuality. Be prepared to drink a lot of coffee because it will be offered to you on all occasions.

Offices generally stay open from 8 a.m. to 6 or 7 p.m. Banking hours are from 10 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. The only time of the year when it may be bard to get any business done in Brazil is during Carnaval, which is held for the five days ending with Ash Wednesday, usually in February or March.

For trips of no more than three or four hours by car, there are beautiful beaches and forests in Caraguatatuba, Ubatuba, Ilha Bela and Sao Sebastiao, which you can reach through modern roads. The railway system is limited and not good in Brazil.

RIO DE JANEIRO

Nestled in a setting of stunning natural beauty, Rio de janeiro is worthy of its nickname, the "Marvelous City." Rio is crowned by picture-perfect Pao de Acucar (Sugar Loaf) mountain and by Corcovado, the peak with the statue of Christ the Redeemer at its summit. The city is flanked by the largest urban rain forest in the world, which plunges down the mountains to the city's stunning lagoons and sandy beaches lining miles of open ocean. Rio de Janeiro is the heart and soul of Brazil, its cultural capital and emotional nerve center, though the city lost its status as the nation's capital nearly 40 years ago.

Discovered on New Year's Day in 1501 by Portuguese explorers who mistook Guanabara Bay for the mouth of a river, the name Rio de Janeiro means "river of January." Today, everybody just calls it plain Rio.

It's wise to remember that the romantic sparkling lights that glimmer on the hillsides illuminate the city's notorious shantytowns. Crime, especially in the tourist-filled Copacabana district, is common.

Most visitors are easy targets, if only because they usually lack a tan. Don't wear expensive watches or jewelry and carry as little cash as possible, especially when going to the beach.

Security around the major hotels is good, and while fixed-price taxis outside major hotels often cost about double the fare of common taxis, they are less likely to take unnecessary detours. They are also less likely to demonstrate their Formula One racing ambitions.

The subway system (Metro) is clean, fast and efficient and now goes as far as Copacabana. It does not extend to Ipanema. Buses are uncomfortable and can be dangerous.

Public telephones (orelhao, or big ears) are everywhere. Buy a phone card at newsstands, generally at major intersections. Many are open 24 hours.

Business visitors should not be surprised when meetings start late or executives are informally dressed. This relaxed attitude is counterbalanced by the Cariocas' (Rio natives) quickness and creativity. Cafezinhos (literally little coffees), usually highly sugared, and mineral water is a staple of nearly every business meeting in this city.

In meetings between men and women, kisses on both cheeks are common. Men shake hands enthusiastically. Cariocas are easy-going and slow to take offense. However, they usually prefer face-to-face meetings, rather than talking over Rids unreliable telephones. Offices hours are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Banking hours are from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Rio's cultural life is intense and varied. Top stars of Brazilian music play often at such local clubs as Canecao and the ATL Hall. As the city gears up for Carnaval, samba-school rehearsals can provide the visitor with an unforgettable all-night experience. But because the samba schools are in the city's slums, it's best to visit with a native or a tour group. Rio also has its share of fashionable discos, such as Resumo de Opera and El Turf. But by far, the most popular pastime here is having a few beers and taking in the scenery at an outdoor cafe.