BRAZIL'S SIMPLER SIDE TINY MORRO DE SAO PAULO HAS FRIENDLY PEOPLE, SENSATIONAL VISTAS, TASTY FOOD.Byline: Story and photos by Brian Harr Staff Writer MORRO DE SAO Sa´o n. 1. (Zool.) Any marine annelid of the genus Hyalinæcia, especially H. tubicola of Europe, which inhabits a transparent movable tube resembling a quill in color and texture. PAULO, Brazil - It rained again today. Only for about 10 minutes. It is the rainy season, though, so what do I expect? I haven't heard a car horn for a week, just the constant sound of waves crashing on the beach. I could get used to this. Tomorrow we leave for the other side of Isle Tinhare (a name no one here uses) to a fishing village called Gamboa. I'm way behind with my journal entries and need to catch up, but it's late, so I have to cut this entry short. Our short-term missions Short-Term Missions (STM) is a trend in Christian missions that is mobilizing missionaries for short periods of time ranging from days to a year. The short-term missionary is a fairly recent innovation in the global missions movement, but many short-term missions agencies are team from Grace Community Church in Sun Valley spent our first week in Brazil in Ubata, a small, impoverished town in the state of Bahia. Our group of 17 worked with the church there and began construction on what will one day be a community center. After a busy week, we made our way through the lush countryside of eastern Brazil to the port city of Valenca, where we took a boat to a nearby island and the village of Morro de Sao Paulo. This is an island south of Salvador, little-known by American tourists who would typically go to Rio or Sao Paulo - but better-known by European tourists. Morro de Sao Paulo offers uncrowded beaches, friendly locals, breathtaking scenery, delicious food - and a thrill ride you'll never find at Disneyland or Magic Mountain. Our main goal was to work on a parcel of land our team leader had purchased in the center of the island; it will eventually be a Bible youth camp. We did, however, have more free time for evangelism and to play tourist. As I look back over some of my journal entries, I'm reminded of what a great island retreat it is - whatever circumstances might find you there. Monday The road to Valenca was intriguing: extremely poor living conditions living conditions npl → condiciones fpl de vida living conditions npl → conditions fpl de vie living conditions living amid beautiful country, which was lush and green after a season of rain. After a three-hour journey by VW bus, we then took a ferry-style boat for a 30-minute ride to the port of Isle Tinhare. The main village on the island is Morro de Sao Paulo, but everyone just says ``Mo-ho.'' Locals using wheelbarrows carried our bags and led us through the village, a narrow, half-mile strip ending at the ocean. The village was filled with restaurants, shops, boutiques and a couple of Internet cafes. We walked across the first beach, onto the second beach - which has a very Club Med Club Med (short for Club Méditerranée) is a French corporation of vacation resorts found in many parts of the world, usually in highly exotic locations. It is seen by many as having started the all-inclusive resort concept, which is now a popular vacationing style for feel to it - and finally onto the terceira praia (third beach) where we were staying. Our pousada Pousadas de Portugal (pron. IPA: [po'zadɐʃ dɨ puɾtugaɫ]) is a chain of luxury, traditional or historical hotels. (bed-and-breakfast inn) was about 10 paces from the pounding surf. Though I've never been to Hawaii, I imagine I don't really have to go now. Here on this island are coconut trees, white sand, clear water ... awesome (although they say the water is even more clear during Brazil's high season, from Christmas to the end of Carnaval in February). During the high season there is little or no rain and no mosquitoes, just brilliant sun and perfect, clear water for snorkeling or scuba diving scuba diving Swimming done underwater with a self-contained underwater-breathing apparatus (scuba), as opposed to skin diving, which requires only a snorkel, goggles, and flippers. Scuba gear was invented by Jacques-Yves Cousteau and Émile Gagnan in 1943. . Our room was on the second floor and had a spectacular view. OK, it's time It's Time was a successful political campaign run by the Australian Labor Party (ALP) under Gough Whitlam at the 1972 election in Australia. Campaigning on the perceived need for change after 23 years of conservative (Liberal Party of Australia) government, Labor put forward a for bed. I'll eventually catch up on this journal, but not tonight. Thursday We are having a great time getting to know the locals on the island. Some of the team can speak Portuguese; I am learning as I go. It rained heavily the last two nights, hard enough to wake me up. Every day we travel to Zimbo, a village in the center of the island. We take a tractor, as all other motor vehicles are forbidden. We have worked since Tuesday clearing the land with machetes. We have also begun to dig for a septic septic /sep·tic/ (sep´tik) pertaining to sepsis. sep·tic adj. 1. Of, relating to, having the nature of, or affected by sepsis. 2. system. The locals will pick up where we leave off on the work here, and we will continue next year. Because of the rain, we worked only half-days the past two days. We ate lunch yesterday at a little place in the middle of the island. The only option was hot dogs. They loaded them with shredded shred n. 1. A long irregular strip that is cut or torn off. 2. A small amount; a particle: not a shred of evidence. tr.v. carrots and corn and then topped them with ketchup and mayonnaise - a very interesting combo but edible nonetheless. Thankfully, today they had hamburgers, which were surprisingly quite good. We're going out to eat in the village Friday and Saturday. I can hardly wait. Friday This week in Morro has been unforgettable. We talked to Pastor Roy, our team leader and part-time translator, and persuaded him to give us today off. Elsiene, our primary translator, arranged for a morning of horseback riding horseback riding: see equestrianism. on the beach. There were 10 horses, so we went in two groups, and it cost only 15 reais (about $5) for an hour of riding. Not many of us heeded the warning to wear pants, and we got kind of beat up from the saddles and stirrups stirrups The footholds in a lithotomy table . Now I know why cowboys wear boots. We ate dinner in the village and enjoyed standard Brazilian fare - similar to Mexican food but without the tortillas. Fish, chicken or ``carne de sol'' are the customary offerings. Meals are almost always served with rice, a beans concoction and a small salad. The drink of choice here is fresh juice. There are stands on the beaches and in the village with vendors making it to order. Suco de abacaxi (pronounced ah-bahk-uh-shee - pineapple juice), mango, strawberry and their version of passion fruit are a few of the options. Almost all the fruit is from the island, so it's always fresh. The second choice is Guarana guarana /gua·ra·na/ (gwah-rah´nah) [Tupi-Guarani] the Brazilian woody vine Paullinia cupana, or a dried paste prepared from its seeds which is used as a stimulant and tonic in folk medicine and for the treatment of headache in (gwah-duh-nah), a soft drink that resembles a tropical ginger ale. That's enough for tonight. Remind me to talk about the lobster feast next time. Monday Everything in Brazil moves at a leisurely pace. I'm told it's a Brazilian thing - but especially a Bahian thing. Lunch can take two hours - and dinner even longer. If someone says, ``I'll be there at 2,'' that means, ``I'll be there between 2:30 and 5.'' A local lobster fisherman in Zimbo invited us to a lobster feast late Saturday morning. We crammed cram v. crammed, cram·ming, crams v.tr. 1. To force, press, or squeeze into an insufficient space; stuff. 2. To fill too tightly. 3. a. To gorge with food. into his tiny house and he proceeded to pull two large platters of whole lobsters from the oven smothered smoth·er v. smoth·ered, smoth·er·ing, smoth·ers v.tr. 1. a. To suffocate (another). b. To deprive (a fire) of the oxygen necessary for combustion. 2. with onions and peppers. It was quite a treat, some of the best seafood I've ever eaten. On Saturday afternoon, it was time for the high-wire act: a ride on the zip line - or Tiroles do Farol. After a 20-minute hike up Verb 1. hike up - pull up; "He hitched up his socks and pants" hitch up pull - apply force so as to cause motion towards the source of the motion; "Pull the rope"; "Pull the handle towards you"; "pull the string gently"; "pull the trigger of the gun"; "pull through the village, we arrived at the lighthouse on the island's highest point. We were treated to a spectacular view of the three beaches far below. After signing a waiver and paying 10 reais, adventurous visitors get strapped into a harness attached to two cables leading down to the water of the first beach. We guessed it was a distance of perhaps 1,000 feet with a drop of more than 500 feet. The heart-stopping ride ends with your feet dragging in the ocean to slow you down. Saturday After a two-hour-plus catamaran catamaran (kăt'əmərăn`), watercraft made up of two connected hulls or a single hull with two parallel keels. Originally used by the natives of Polynesia, the catamaran design was adopted by Western boat builders in the 19th cent. trip to Salvador to drop off some of the team members, we enjoyed some great meals and got the chance to see locals performing capoeira cap·o·ei·ra n. An Afro-Brazilian dance form that incorporates self-defense maneuvers. [Portuguese, from earlier *capon, capon, from Vulgar Latin , a martial arts/dance form native to Brazil. We also found some great souvenirs. Nothing in this country has a set price, so I haggled my way to deal after deal, including two hand-crafted ceramic figurines for about $8. Back on the island, we had the pleasure of taking a day trip to the little fishing village of Garapua. It's on the way to the small neighboring neigh·bor n. 1. One who lives near or next to another. 2. A person, place, or thing adjacent to or located near another. 3. A fellow human. 4. Used as a form of familiar address. v. island of Boipeba and is situated in a marvelous inlet of calm, crystalline waters. There are a few simple pousadas there, but it's nothing like the tourist scene of Morro. We had a fabulous lunch prepared by a village woman. It took her more than two hours to prepare the feast, but it was worth the wait. We had whole fried fish Fried fish refers to any fish that has been prepared by frying. Often, the fish is covered in batter, or flour, or herbs and spices before being fried. Fish is fried in many parts of the world, and fried fish is an important dish in many cuisines. , smothered with a shrimp sauce, and a very unusual shrimp dish served in a mixture of mashed potatoes n. pl. 1. Potatoes which have been boiled and mashed to a pulpy consistency, usu. with sparing addition of milk, salt, butter, or other flavoring. It is a popular accompaniment to a meat course [U.S., 1900's], providing bulk and calories to a meal. and still more shrimp. This was one of the best meals yet on the island. As my time in Brazil Brazil has four time zones. It also observes summer time; however, not only do the starting and ending dates often change from year to year, it is also not followed by all states (which ones observe summer time can change from year to year). and on the island comes to a close, I have to prepare myself for returning to Los Angeles Los Angeles (lôs ăn`jələs, lŏs, ăn`jəlēz'), city (1990 pop. 3,485,398), seat of Los Angeles co., S Calif.; inc. 1850. . Sao Paulo and its 20 million people will help prepare me for the hustle and bustle of Southern California Southern California, also colloquially known as SoCal, is the southern portion of the U.S. state of California. Centered on the cities of Los Angeles and San Diego, Southern California is home to nearly 24 million people and is the nation's second most populated region, - and, of course, car horns. Brian Harr, (818) 713-3724 brian.harr(at)dailynews.com IF YOU GO GETTING THERE: The island of Morro de Sao Paulo can be reached by boat from Valenca (30 minutes; $1-$2), boat from Salvador (2 hours, 15 minutes; $15), or plane from Salvador (20 minutes; $50). RESOURCES: www.morrodesaopaulo.com.br (good overall information on the island) www.pousada2000.com www.redeprovence.com.br (one of the best pousadas on the island) www.aerostar.com.br (air service from Salvador to the island) Pousada Grauca: (011-75) 483-1344 Hotel Vila Guaiamu: (011-75) 483-1035 Provence Villegaignon: (011-71) 452-4339 Iracema restaurant, Garapua: (011-75) 625-2111 CAPTION(S): 7 photos, box, map Photo: (1 -- 4 -- color) Idyllic beaches, top, are among the natural treasures of Brazil's Morro de Sao Paulo, and an expedient way to get from the overlook to the water is with an exhilarating ride on a zip line, above left. Cars aren't allowed on the island, so you're likely to get around by tractor shuttle, far left. And when it's time to eat in Gamboa, you can't go wrong with the fresh fish. (5 -- color) Island boys head home in the evening in the small fishing village of Gamboa on Isle Tinhare, far off the beaten path in Brazil. (6 -- color) Local women clean fish in Garapua, a small Isle Tinhare village on the way to the neighboring island of Boipeba. The local ``laundromat'' is in the background. (7 -- color) The lighthouse sits on the highest point of the island, which everybody refers to as Morro de Sao Paulo, the name of its largest village. Brian Harr/Staff Photographer Box: IF YOU GO Map: Salvador Jon Gerung/Staff Artist |
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