BOXER'S CUISINE A KNOCKOUT.Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic Something about the clientele at Boxer, an astounding a·stound tr.v. a·stound·ed, a·stound·ing, a·stounds To astonish and bewilder. See Synonyms at surprise. [From Middle English astoned, past participle of astonen, Beverly Boulevard storefront restaurant, tells you these people are really interested in the food they're eating. This is not the Hollywood glamour set. They talk animatedly, and you know a lot of the conversation is about what's on their plate or what's in their glass. At dinnertime, every table seems to have wine bottles, but they're not purchased from a list. They're either brought in by the diners themselves or purchased next door at the convenient wine shop operated by Boxer's owners. One night, a group of well-dressed men sat at a long table in the center of the small dining room. They were members of a local wine and food society. And as they sipped from bottle after bottle of famous French wines, they poked, munched and murmured appreciative comments about the food as they discussed the quality of the wines. Then a smaller group of wine fanciers in one corner got involved with the larger group's activities and sips of each other's wines took place. A bottle of treasured 1961 Chateau Lynch Bages from the smaller group was uncorked and enjoyed by the serious wine buffs at the long table. This is the kind of place Boxer is. And you only have to order chef Neal Fraser's tuna tartare
Examples are
This startlingly star·tle v. star·tled, star·tling, star·tles v.tr. 1. To cause to make a quick involuntary movement or start. 2. To alarm, frighten, or surprise suddenly. See Synonyms at frighten. presented dish - with its artistic brush strokes of chive chive: see onion. chive Small, hardy perennial plant (Allium schoenoprasum) of the lily family, related to the onion. Its small, white, elongated bulbs and thin, tubular leaves grow in clumps. and mustard sauce, sesame-flavored seaweed and delectable cubes of shiny sashimi-grade tuna - leaves most other tuna tartare versions at the starting gate. It's definitely a runaway winner. Fraser's entrees, though, aren't always so esoteric. He produces a very down-to-earth, fresh rosemary-accented, osso buco-style braised braise tr.v. braised, brais·ing, brais·es To cook (meat or vegetables) by browning in fat, then simmering in a small quantity of liquid in a covered container. lamb shank main course ($16.50) that he pairs with an enjoyable stack of small garbanzo-flour pancakes (called socca on the menu) and half a head of roasted garlic. His Thai curry soup ($8) is a smooth, reasonably spicy liquid that has a sizable lobster ravioli floating in it. He may make a killer of a mushroom soup ($14), thick almost like a duxelles Duxelles is a finely chopped mixture of mushrooms, onions, shallots and herbs sautéed in wine. It is a basic preparation used in stuffings and sauces (notably, Beef Wellington). , with delicious, huge, fresh, sweet scallops sticking out of it like icebergs. Or a tasty du jour offering of acorn squash soup ($6.50). His rustic, new American fare includes a well-turned sauteed ostrich effort ($22) accompanied by spinach, spaetzle, shallots and morels, and a lovely grilled free range chicken dish ($21) cleverly enhanced with goat cheese, potato, pearl onions and chicken confit con·fit n. 1. Meat, such as duck, that has been salted and then cooked and preserved in its own fat. 2. A condiment made by cooking seasoned fruit or vegetables, usually to a jamlike consistency. cannelloni can·nel·lo·ni n. 1. Pasta in large-sized tubes. 2. A dish consisting of such tubes stuffed with meat, vegetables, or cheese and baked in a tomato or cream sauce. [Italian, pl. . I've enjoyed grilled buffalo steak in a bordelaise sauce here and a beet risotto ri·sot·to n. pl. ri·sot·tos A dish of rice cooked in broth, usually with saffron, and served with grated cheese. [Italian, from riso, rice, from Old Italian; see rice. with caramelized leeks and scallops. But this is the one restaurant in town where, even though its entrees are sometimes more than substantial, you must allow yourself enough room to sample pastry chef Angela Hunter's superb endings. She loves putting fruit in filo FILO - stack dough. It could be banana. One time it was dried fruit. She might add hot fudge or a syrup such as cranberry-rosemary or one with peppermint flavors. Her delicious five-layer tart has both hot fudge and caramel sauces. And you'll find blobs of exotic ice cream, such as candied can·died adj. Permeated, covered, encrusted, or cooked with sugar: candied sweet potatoes. candied Adjective coated with or cooked in sugar: ginger or Tahitian vanilla bean, or a sorbet such as green apple adding to the color and taste. Boxer is nothing less than a culinary knockout. THE FACTS The restaurant: Boxer. Where: 7615 W. Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles. When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, for dinner from 6 to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, for brunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Behind the scenes: Neal Fraser is chef. Steven Rene Arroyo is owner-manager. Recommended items: Tuna tartare, Thai curry soup, vegetable risotto, sauteed ostrich, braised lamb shanks with garbanzo garbanzo see chickpea. pancakes, grilled free range chicken, warm Valrhona chocolate cake, five-layer tart, fruit in filo. How much: Starters from $7 to $14, entrees from $12 to $23, desserts $6 each. MC, V. Wine list: No license. Wine shop adjacent. $5 corkage. Reservations: Needed. Call (213) 932-6178 Our rating: Four Stars for food; Three and One Half for service. CAPTION(S): Photo Photo: Steven Rene Arroyo, owner-manager of Boxer, and pastry chef Angela Hunter display some of the restaurant's specialties. Evan Yee/Daily News |
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