BOUNTEOUS BASKETS CELEBRATE THE SEASON IN STYLE WITH BEAUTIFUL DO-IT-YOURSELF CREATIONS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Spectacular-looking holiday food gift baskets. We've all seen these beauties in catalogs - and stores - ranging from small and elegant to large, showy and lavish. Who wouldn't love to receive one?

They often seem prohibitive in cost if you order from an Internet shopping site or from specialty stores.

But it's possible to pamper those on your gift list and customize each creation by making personalized selections and creating a sensational-looking presentation by designing and wrapping it yourself at a fraction of the cost. For ease and convenience, we're talking about including mostly purchased food items. Of course, if you make or bake a holiday specialty, feel free to tuck it in, too.

Once you get the knack - and collect the containers, wrappings and edible products - you can assemble the baskets to tantalize the taste buds of the recipient in short order.

You can stuff a basket with a single theme (such as Italian, chocolate, international, Far East, south-of-the-border, wine lovers, etc.) or simply collect an eclectic array of goodies that you think would appeal and send warm holiday wishes.

All sorts of basket shapes - from stars and cornucopias - as well as other reusable containers like ice buckets, bowls, colanders or large cooking pots - that complement the food theme - work well. Other possibilities include boxes, mugs (for a small gift), paper gift bags, bread boards, baking dishes and pans, serving dishes and more. Scour discount shops and places like Target, Marshall's, Cost Plus, Pier 1 Imports, Pic 'N' Save, 99 Cent Only stores and such for a wealth of options.

Keep in mind that the gift basket can range from small to large and from simple to extravagant, depending on your holiday budget. Three or even five items make a savvy and appealing gift.

They are plenty of delectable prepared foods at reasonable prices close to home at places like Trader Joe's, Cost Plus, supermarkets, delicatessens, bakeries, coffee stores and international food markets. Be on the lookout and pick up nonperishable items whenever you see them.

Most important is that the gift look beautiful and professional. Wrapping and presentation should be enticing. But you don't need to spend a fortune. Take a few tricks from the experts.

Use a wad of crumbled newspapers to line and fill baskets and cushion the goodies, then cover with a cloth napkin or dish towel, a cut fabric piece (purchase remnants, if possible) or a thin layer of colorful, shredded packing material. We also like to sprinkle shredded Mylar strips in red or gold (or the color of your choice) around the items, before wrapping up for extra pizzazz and sparkle.

For overwrapping the container, invest in food-safe cellophane (clear looks the most attractive, although colors are available if you want to give them a whirl). It comes in large rolls at craft, discount and drug stores. We spotted a good supply at Cost Plus, too.

As a final touch, use a selection of ribbons, bows, cinnamon sticks, pine cones, natural nonpoisonous greenery from your garden, real or silk flowers, bells, ornaments or kitchen tools, or use your imagination to add your own decorative touch.

Here are some food gift basket ideas to get you started in capturing the spirit of the season. You're sure to think of many more.

ECLECTIC MEDLEY: Pick and choose and pack in a large or small basket items such as olive oil, balsamic vinegar, mango salsa, champagne, jam, chipotle sauce, cheeses, gourmet candy bars and chocolate candies, fancy pickles, pickled asparagus, specialty olives and mushrooms and more.

CHOCOLATE SAYS IT ALL: For chocolate lovers, pack up fabulous chocolate cookies, brownies, candies, chocolate-covered pretzels, chocolate bars, truffles, chocolate Santas. There are plenty of choices. Make the basket the ultimate or simply concentrate on chocolate cookies, candies or the like. For a more indulgent gift, you might even want to toss in a bottle of port, champagne or Asti Spumante if your budget allows.

COOKIES GALORE: Bake several batches of cookies - or find the freshest and best assortment locally (perhaps from a favorite bakery) to include. Biscotti, chocolate chips and shortbread are all good choices. You might toss in some tea or coffee - and even a mug or cookie cookbook - for a cookie fancier to enjoy. Wrap in a basket or select a fun-shaped ceramic cookie jar.

SUGARPLUM FAIRY: Anything sweet and indulgent goes here, including foodstuffs like jams and jellies, lemon curd, Nutella, specialty holiday candies or cookies, blocks of semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chocolate dipped dried fruits, peanut brittle, toffee, gingerbread, sundae sauces, sweet waffle or pancake syrups.

CHAMPAGNE AND TRUFFLES: Keep this one simple - a nice bottle of champagne and a box of delicious purchased or homemade truffles. Truffles in assorted flavors, by themselves, would be another good option, too.

SOUP POT: Include several kinds of beans or bean mixtures or store- bought soup mixes, a variety of fresh vegetables, Parmesan cheese and assorted jarred spices. You might tuck in a bottle of wine and a loaf of whole-grain or rye bread.

SALAD FANCIERS: Wrap up an assortment of different-flavored good-quality oils (truffle, hazelnut, pesto, olive, etc.) and vinegars (sherry wine, balsamic, raspberry, etc.) in a salad bowl and accompany with a couple of packages of prewashed lettuces and a can each of artichoke hearts and hearts of palm along with a jar of imported olives, roasted red peppers and capers. Add a wedge of cheese or some fresh veggies, if desired.

CHEESE AND FRUIT: Pick up assorted cut, wrapped cheese wedges or rounds (like goat cheese, brie, etc.) and wrap with a medley of different fruits. Include a knife or two and even a few types of crackers. If the recipient imbibes, add a favorite bottle of wine. If not, consider a bottle of sparkling nonalcoholic cider.

FRUITS AND NUTS: Pack up the season's best fresh fruits along with assorted nuts, shelled or unshelled. A few dried packaged fruits or some trail mix would be nice, too.

WINE LOVER'S CELEBRATION: Include a variety of wines and a variety of crackers, cheeses and pates.

MORNING GLORY: For a breakfast basket, include scone or muffin mixes, coffee mugs, special flavored coffees or herbed teas, fresh oranges or orange juice and maybe even some special type of bacon.

SNACK ATTACK: Make up a basket of assorted chips and crackers, appetizers, dips, cheese, pretzels, cookies, candy bars and other snack foods.

HOT AND SPICY: Include zesty snacks, salsas, assorted hot sauces and assorted spicy barbecues and other sauces in this creation.

ITALIAN COMBO: Include assorted pastas, pasta sauces, a bottle of red wine, roasted red peppers, garlic, biscotti, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, Parmesan cheese and bread sticks. You might also toss in a baguette or a loaf of rustic Italian country bread and a jar of pesto sauce. Use a checkered napkin, if desired, to line the basket or container.

By now, you're getting the idea. Anything goes. Make your creations as lavish or simple as you like, depending on your holiday budget. Bottom line: The items must be packaged beautifully - and look appealing and professional. Also, avoid including perishable food items unless you're packaging just prior to giving.

HERB-MARINATED OLIVES

A pretty jar makes this gift special. Since garlic spoils easily, I don't use it unless the olives will be consumed within one or two days. Mixed sizes and colors of olives make a nice assortment, too. The recipe can be doubled or tripled to make several gifts.

2 cups olives in brine

1/2 orange

1/2 lemon

1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

5 OR 6 thyme sprigs

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh rosemary

About 1 cup olive oil

Drain olives and place in a bowl. Scrub rinds of orange and lemon halves. If you have a citrus zester, use it to remove peel of both orange and lemon in pretty, thin slivers. Otherwise, remove peel with a vegetable peeler and cut into fine julienne with a knife. Add to olives.

Combine peppercorns and fennel in a mortar and very gently crush with a pestle. You just want to bruise to release flavor. Add to olives.

Rub thyme between your hands over bowl of olives. Then add rosemary. Turn olives to coat with seasonings. Transfer olives to a clean pint jar. Add enough olive oil to cover olives. Cover jar and refrigerate.

Olives will taste best after they have had a few days to absorb flavors of herbs. They will keep, refrigerated, about 6 weeks. Olive oil often coagulates in the refrigerator, so allow jar to come to room temperature before serving. Makes 1 pint jar.

From ``Food for Friends,'' by Sally Pasley Vargas, Ten Speed Press.

BUTTERCRUNCH

Over the years, I've gotten more requests for this recipe than any other. You could make more than one version, varying with milk or white chocolate, hazelnuts, macadamias or other toasted nuts.

1 pound unsalted butter

2 cups sugar

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup chopped walnuts

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped

Line a 13x18-inch baking sheet, preferably with a 1-inch rim, with parchment paper.

Combine butter, sugar, corn syrup and vanilla in a heavy-bottomed 4- quart saucepan. Place over medium to high heat and heat, stirring with a long-handled wooden spoon, until mixture comes to a boil and reaches 300 degrees F on a candy thermometer.

Remove pan from heat and stir in 1/2 cup chopped walnuts. Immediately pour mixture onto parchment-lined sheet and spread to corners and edges with a metal spatula. Cool 10 minutes. Blot with a paper towel to remove any excess butter that may have risen to surface. Let cool completely.

Melt chocolate in a stainless-steel or other heatproof bowl over (not touching) hot water. Spread chocolate over cooled toffee and sprinkle with remaining nuts. Cool until firm, then break into pieces.

Store pieces between sheets of waxed paper in a tightly closed tin in a cool place (not the refrigerator), up to 2 weeks. Makes about 2 1/2 pounds candy.

From ``Food for Friends,'' by Sally Pasley Vargas, Ten Speed Press.

NATALIE'S FAST PEANUT BUTTER ROCKY ROAD

This is the fastest and simplest way to make rocky road-style candy, and it's super-delicious. The chocolate never streaks and no tempering is required. To give as a gift, place each candy piece in a paper candy cup. It's also great on a holiday party tray.

3 cups semisweet chocolate chips OR 18 ounces semisweet chocolate, cut up

3/4 cup crunchy OR smooth peanut butter

3/4 cup chopped peanuts OR walnuts

3 cups miniature marshmallows

In a large 2-quart glass bowl, combine chocolate and peanut butter. Heat in microwave oven on high power 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, stirring once halfway through cooking time. Stir until chocolate is melted and smooth. Stir in peanuts and marshmallows. Immediately spread in a foil-lined 11x7-inch baking pan. Refrigerate 1 to 2 hours or until firm. Cut into 35 pieces. Keep refrigerated. Makes 35 pieces.

APRICOT PRESERVES

1 pound dried apricots

4 1/2 cups water

1 cup sugar

Simmer apricots and water in a medium saucepan until soft, about 10 minutes. Remove apricots with a slotted spoon to a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Puree until smooth, then return to water in saucepan. Stir in sugar and cook slowly over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture is thick, about 40 minutes.

Immediately spoon jam into clean, hot jars and seal. Or cool and store in refrigerator. Makes 5 (8-ounce) jars.

From ``Season's Greetings,'' by Marlene Sorosky, HarperPerennial.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Make a lavish food gift basket for holiday giving with a variety of purchased food items.

Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer

(2 -- 4 -- color) Use different containers and give customized basket creations a single theme, such as visions of sugarplums, left, or Italian, right. Or simply mix, far left, of food items.