BORN TO BE MILDER YOU DON'T HAVE TO FEEL THE BURN AT PUNJAB CAFE.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

THE DARK, RICH CURRIES of India's Punjab region along with numerous, tandoor-baked dishes can now be enjoyed at the new Punjab Cafe in Tarzana.

Replacing the Ranch House Barbecue, Punjab's kitchen cooks mostly familiar Northern Indian food at reasonable prices. An initial B rating from the county health department, though, may affect its popularity.

Although some of its dishes could be a tad more generous in quantity, the overall quality of Punjab's fare appears to be a notch or two above average.

Handsome Indian serving bowls and canisters come to the table carrying a large variety of chicken, lamb, seafood or vegetable offerings, most labeled on the menu as coming with gravies, sauces or masalas - and hardly ever as curries.

Because I've always loved curries, I'm completely comfortable with dishes carrying that description. But certain people think that all curries are fiery hot, overly seasoned mixtures. Obviously, that's not true.

Curries can be as mild as you wish.

At Punjab a regional specialty called murg handi ($8) of chicken breast in a rich sauce seemed rather mild in peppery heat to me one night. So did a rather tasty salmon curry ($10) that was supposed to be Chilean sea bass, but the chef changed the fish.

A bit spicier is the lamb karahi ($10) here, boosted with ginger and green chiles.

Probably the No. 1 dish on Punjab's menu is its tandoor-baked lamb chops ($12), called lajawab champain, actually six meaty chops fresh out of a yogurt and spice marinade before receiving a quick scorch in the clay oven.

No sauce comes with this lamb treat - and none is needed.

Order the Punjabi sizzler platter ($15) here, and you'll receive five unsauced meats sending out savory smells of enticement as the dish is placed on the table.

There's the tender, moist, marinated pieces of tandoori chicken, crunchy and well-seasoned shrimp, minced lamb kebab, cubed tender lamb kebab, and nice-tasting pieces of chicken called murg malai tikka that had evidently been cream-sauced but in the oven-roasting process had lost their wetness.

At least one vegetable dish should be ordered with a Punjab meal. The traditional spinach and Indian cheese (very mild) mixture usually called saag paneer, here named saagwala paneer ($8) and said to contain collard greens and possibly okra, provides a fine vegetable accompaniment.

Punjab's kitchen makes no soups. But one of its most interesting alternative starters is a deep-fried, batter-coated mahi mahi recipe known as amritsari macchi ($6). It's served up in small pieces, quite crispy, and goes well with the complimentary mint and/or tamarind chutney.

For those who like a soothing, refreshing, cool dipping sauce, the raita here ($2) is excellent. Made with yogurt, cucumber, and shredded carrots, it is something you can dip pieces of tandoor bread (naan) into and enjoy as a separate little nosh.

Punjab also brings forth by request an on-the-house dish of sliced, seasoned red onions titled lachha pyaz. These, with the raita, provide another nifty condiment combination.

Although Punjab has a number of basmati rice mixtures, plain steamed basmati rice ($2) here complements rather than interferes with the other things on each personal plate.

Endings of kulfi (Indian ice cream, $2.50 or $4) and firni, a delicious, chilled rice mixture, provide two more ways to soothe the palate.

That's if it needs soothing.

As noted, much of Punjab's food can be quite mild.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

PUNJAB CAFE

Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars

Where: 18621 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana.

Hours: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, for dinner from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday, from 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Batter-coated mahi mahi, Punjab curried chicken breast, lamb cooked in an iron pot, salmon curry, Punjabi assorted sizzling meats, tandoor-roasted lamb chops, creamy spinach and cheese mixture, naan four ways, raita, firni (cold rice custard).

How much: Starters from $2 to $6, entrees from $7 to $15, desserts from $2.50 to $4. No alcohol. Beer and wine license pending. Major credit cards.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2) Chef/owner Mani Tei, top, prepares lajawab champain - lamb chops marinated in yogurt and spices, then baked in a tandoori oven. The completed dish, seved with naan bread, is above.

Gene Blevins/Special to the Daily News