BIG FUN IN TOLUCA LAKE.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic Cajun-Creole restaurants have been few and far between of late. Consequently, fanciers of that fare will welcome the new Mardi Gras in Toluca Lake. The spirit of New Orleans and Cajun country food is re-created with obvious pride. A double storefront facility, which retains the original three front doors (one in use as an entry), Mardi Gras has two dining rooms divided by an archway. The first offers a ceiling effect of fireflies flitting flit intr.v. flit·ted, flit·ting, flits 1. To move about rapidly and nimbly. 2. To move quickly from one condition or location to another. n. 1. A fluttering or darting movement. around a la Disney's Pirates of the Caribbean This article is about the franchise. For other, more specific uses, see Pirates of the Caribbean (disambiguation). For real pirates, see Piracy in the Caribbean. Pirates of the Caribbean . There are several comfortably upholstered booths and a number of sterile, black tables and chairs in both rooms along with a black cement floor. Colorful masks and illustrated masked beauties of Mardi Gras fashion grace the walls and there's a clever faux hanging, burning flame flickering brightly in the dining room that doesn't have the ``fireflies.'' But there's plenty of decorating and furnishing needed to achieve normal dining room warmth. Meanwhile, there seems to be something new here every few days. One evening during the height of the dinner hours, someone brought in a tallish palm planter and placed it behind the booth where we were digging into alligator Creole ($12.95) and lobster etouffee é·touf·fée n. pl. é·touf·fées A spicy Cajun stew of vegetables and seafood, especially crayfish. [Louisiana French, from French (à l')étouffée, stewed ($16.95). The Creoles - there are six of them - and the etouffees - seven in number - form the signature dishes of Mardi Gras, and they deliver what's expected, although one night shrimp creole ($12.95) seemed less spicy than chicken etouffee ($10.95). Yet on the night of the planter, the alligator Creole was definitely spicier than the lobster etouffee. No big deal. They both were tasty renditions on both occasions. The etouffee is a thick, brown roux-reduction saucing with traditional Cajun-style peppery pep·per·y adj. 1. Of, containing, or resembling pepper; sharp or pungent in flavor. 2. Vigorously sharp-tempered: a peppery sales clerk. 3. seasoning that the Mardi Gras chef pairs with crawfish crawfish: see crayfish. ($14.95), catfish ($15.95) and snapper snapper, name for members of the Lutianidae, a family of spiny-finned food and game fishes found chiefly in tropical coastal waters. Snappers are carnivorous, active, and voracious, with large mouths and sharp teeth. Most species travel in dense schools. ($15.95) in addition to those ingredients already mentioned. The Creoles have similar saucing that is tomato red and of rounder rather than sharper spicing, possibly because of an oniony sweetness. Along with the shrimp and the interesting chickenlike alligator offering, there are chicken ($9.95), lobster ($15.95), snapper ($14.94) and catfish ($14.95). The etouffees and Creoles as well as other entrees arrive with niblets of corn, white rice and a choice of red beans (not bad, a bit like frijoles), a medley of sauteed vegetables (better) or cold potato salad (forget it, this isn't deli food.) The kitchen makes a trio of blackened black·en v. black·ened, black·en·ing, black·ens v.tr. 1. To make black. 2. To sully or defame: a scandal that blackened the mayor's name. 3. fish items: catfish or snapper ($11.95 each) or swordfish ($15.95). I tried the catfish and, though I thought the portion could be bigger, the piece of catfish filet possessed good flesh texture and enough moistness with medium-hot Cajun seasoning on its ``blackened'' exterior. One cannot visit this type of restaurant without sampling its gumbo and jambalaya jam·ba·lay·a n. A Creole dish consisting of rice that has been cooked with shrimp, oysters, ham, or chicken and seasoned with spices and herbs. [Louisiana French, from Provençal jambalaia. . Here they come as appetizers - gumbo in a cup ($3.95), jambalaya on a tiny plate ($5.95) - or as entrees - gumbo ($8.95) and jambalaya ($10.95). Both satisfy. The gumbo is thick and rich with slices of sausage plus an occasional hint of crab and shrimp. Jambalaya, the invigorating in·vig·or·ate tr.v. in·vig·or·at·ed, in·vig·or·at·ing, in·vig·or·ates To impart vigor, strength, or vitality to; animate: "A few whiffs of the raw, strong scent of phlox invigorated her" rice melange mé·lange also me·lange n. A mixture: "[a] building crowned with a mélange of antennae and satellite dishes" Howard Kaplan. of Louisiana, also has shrimp and sausage with pieces of chicken adding to the mix. Incidentally, a starter with a spicy kick is the serving of Cajun wings ($5.95). If you like the Yankee version from Buffalo, N.Y., you'll undoubtedly go for this Cajun-in-Toluca creation. And for sweet endings ($3.95 each) there's a slippery wedge of chocolate ``silk'' pie made with Hershey's and margarine, also a pecan and sweet potato pie Sweet Potato Pie is a traditional dessert popular in the Southern United States. It is a usually made as a large tart in an open pie shell without a top crust. The filling consists of sweet potatoes, milk, sugar and eggs, flavored with spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg. that might be better as one or the other. Both are daubed daub v. daubed, daub·ing, daubs v.tr. 1. To cover or smear with a soft adhesive substance such as plaster, grease, or mud. 2. To apply paint to (a surface) with hasty or crude strokes. with airy Chantilly cream. So put on the glittering colored beads (they're handed out here) and tap your foot to the recorded Cajun music, 'cause the Mardi Gras has come to town. Yippee yip·pee interj. Informal Used to express joy or elation. yippee interj an exclamation of joy, pleasure, or anticipation ! MARDI GRAS Where: 10151 Riverside Drive, Toluca Lake. When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays, for brunch from 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday; for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. weeknights, to 11 p.m. Friday, from 5 to 11 p.m. Saturday, from 3 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Recommended items: Cajun wings, gumbo, chicken or lobster etouffee, alligator Creole, blackened catfish, jambalaya, chocolate silk pie. Children's menu: Fried chicken or pasta ($4.95), fried shrimp ($6.95). How much: Starters from $4 to $10, entrees from $9 to $17, desserts $4 each. Beer and wine. All major credit cards. Wine list: Limited at present. Bottlings $14 to $19, glass $4 to $5.50. Due to expand. Good tap beers (Sierra Nevada, Samuel Adams, Pyramid Hefeweizen). Corkage: $5. Reservations: Helpful. Call (818) 761-4243. Our rating: Three stars for food; Three stars for service; One star for wine. CAPTION(S): 2 photos Photo: (1) Michael Sherry, left, and Michael Garrison are the co-owners of Mardi Gras, a new Cajun-Creole cafe in Toluca Lake. (2) Blackened snapper topped with shrimp is a specialty at Mardi Gras. Tom Mendoza/Staff Photographer |
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