BEST FOOT FORWARD THREE SOUTHLAND FOOTWEAR MAKERS FIND SUCCESS, GET THEIR KICKS IN STYLISH SPECIALIZATION.

Byline: Brent Hopkins Staff Writer

From checkerboard slip-ons kicking skateboards to white-striped leather sneakers digging into a tennis court to a pair of casual lace-ups propped on a desk, Southern California shoes have left tracks all across the country.

While the region doesn't boast the names that dominate the shoe world, Nike, Adidas, Reebok or Puma, its companies have emerged as leaders in design and fashion. Fueled by West Coast fashion trends, designers with an eye for both the casual and the edgy and the relaxed California state of mind, local companies have managed to carve out strong niches that allow them to compete handily with the giants.

``If it starts here, people will wear it across the country,'' said Steve Katz, vice president of the World Shoe Association, a Newport Beach company that puts on the industry's annual trade show in Las Vegas each August. ``A major part of what's happening in the United States today starts in Southern California.''

Local shoemakers account for well over $1 billion in annual sales, though that also includes their apparel and accessories categories. Overall, the American Apparel and Footwear Association puts shoe sales at more than $40.5 billion annually. Though a relatively small slice of total sales, local designers hold a bigger hold on setting trends around teh world.

Michael Greenberg knows that quite well. As president of Skechers Inc., he's worked locally since 1979, running both LA Gear and his current company, based in Manhattan Beach. After launching Skechers 11 years ago, he's built the company into a more than $800 million annual business, with more than 1,000 varieties of trendy athletic shoes, sandals and casual wear. Though he credits his designers with watching out for local fashions, he says they can sell worldwide. Indeed, Skechers has retail stores in 13 countries, spanning from Japan to England and distributors sell its wares in 100 nations.

``We do a great job in exporting our business model,'' Greenberg said. ``California has become a mecca for fashion. It's one of the leaders in creating looks, developing fashion, whether it's surfer wear or high-end designs. It's a great place to be creative.''

He views his company not so much as a rival to the giants, but as a ``lifestyle brand,'' one very much tied to the California culture. Though Skechers makes some performance shoes, its sneakers are meant more for looks than showing off in athletic trials. As such, it can also use celebrities like Robert Downey Jr. and Christina Aguilera as endorsers, rather than fighting for athletes.

``We go with lots of different fashions, so we can be there for a day at the beach or a night at the club,'' Greenberg said. ``We even make steel-toed boots and non-slip work shoes.''

While Skechers tries to offer something for everyone, Santa Fe Springs- based Vans Inc. narrows its focus to a smaller but very lucrative market. The skateboarding experts made headlines recently when VF Corp., maker of Lee and Wrangler jeans, announced plans April 27 to acquire it for $396 million. While Vans expects to post revenue of nearly $350 this year, VF thinks it could be a $500 million annual company in only three years as it expands from just its signature footwear into more apparel.

``Vans has come out as being one of the strongest brands,'' said Mackey McDonald, VF's chairman and chief executive officer, in a conference call announcing the acquisition. ``We think they've done a great job of delivering the right footwear products and we think that consumers are interested in that brand for a lot more than footwear. It gives us a tremendous growth opportunity.''

While its designs have been eye-catching, particularly the signature checkerboard slip-on popularized by fictional surfer dude Jeff Spicoli in ``Fast Times at Ridgemont High,'' Vans has never been as flashy as its competitors in the $6 billion action sports world. To its loyal consumers, however, that hasn't mattered.

``I've been wearing these since I was 10,'' said 21-year-old Ian Carpenter, an Alta Loma resident who owns two pairs of Old Skools and studies graphic design at Chaffey College. ``I'm not too into the space age shoes. I'm not (playing ball), so this is all I need ... it's almost like your bare foot, it's so comfortable.''

While Skechers and Vans target lifestyles, K-Swiss Inc. of Westlake Village specifically aims for tennis players. It has few high-profile endorsers, yet still manages annual sales of $429 million from its performance line and casual Classic shoe. Though it predicts this year will be soft due to expenditures for marketing and product development, the announcement of which sent stock plunging 20 percent on April 28, analysts respect it as a well-managed, long-term player in the shoe business.

``We've been focusing on the true tennis player for many years, and as a result, we have a very profitable company. We've got $90 million in cash and no debt,'' said Steven Nichols, president and chairman of the board. ``Everything that happens to a good company has happened to us.''

Although it's targeted that true tennis player, its spare, simple designs have garnered fans far from the court. Andrew Chavira, a Fontana probation officer, has four pairs parked in his closet, which he sports for trips to the mall, not the base line.

``Mainly, I stick with K-Swiss,'' the 32-year-old said. ``Nike's getting too weird. I want a classic style and color. I want shoes that aren't too expensive and stand out.''

Brent Hopkins, [phone]

brent.hopkins(at)dailynews.com

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

(1 -- 2 -- color) Skechers President Michael Greenberg, above, guides a company that's found its niche in trendy casual and athletic shoes as well as sandals. The company has stores in 13 countries. Steven Nichols, left, is president and chairman of the board of K-Swiss Inc., based in Westlake Village, which makes classic court shoes for tennis players and others.

John McCoy/Staff Photographer

Charlotte Schmid-Maybach/Staff Photographer

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SOURCE: Daily News research