BEL-AIR'S ROCCO: ITALIAN IN NAME, GLOBAL IN SPIRIT.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

From its name, Rocco, the restaurant that replaced Adriano's, near the top of the hill on Beverly Glen in Bel-Air, would seem to be another Italian restaurant in a cluster of those of similar persuasion.

In the same shopping center, potential diners surely notice the Terrazza of Bel-Air, Santo Pietro and Mulholland Grill, all producing Italian fare.

But the new Rocco resides in the most compelling facility.

Yet despite its very Italian name, it's not pure Italian.

And undoubtedly, not supposed to be because the chef, Hiro Bairin, is Japanese.

And owner Rocco Sommazi, though of Italian heritage, is actually Swiss by birth.

He has redone the entire space, moving the main dining area into what was formerly a covered patio and transforming the onetime somewhat formal dining room into an ``enoteca,'' or wine-sipping chamber that features a stage for live musical entertainment.

The result, especially to those who remembered Adriano's fondly, is not particularly warming, mainly because the new dining room lacks the comfort and charm of its predecessor.

However, the food, touted as ``world cuisine'' and highlighted by Japanese, French and Northern Italian influences, certainly encourages interest.

One day at lunch chef Bairin made a wonderfully clean-flavored soup ($6) with a whitefish broth, soba noodles and shiitake mushrooms.

Not in the least Italian. But very effective.

In the evening another time, there was a tasty rendition of an Adriano's holdover, the truly Italian vitello tonnato ($7.50).

This refreshing dish of cold, sliced veal caped with a tart tuna sauce with capers should be on more Italian menus around town.

Bairin also brings tuna into play with a handsome plate of well-executed tuna tartare ($11) and sears his ahi as an entree ($22) serving it with simple steamed vegetables and an orange-ginger sauce.

His more inventive dishes include a squid-ink-dyed black risotto mixed with properly cooked, chewable calamari ($15) and light panzotti pasta envelopes filled with ricotta cheese that are brought forth floating in a pool of creamy walnut sauce ($12.50).

Red snapper on leeks with organic greens ($21) and a wine-rich ``brasato'' beef stew nestled in soft polenta ($17) are passable as well as relatively expensive plates.

And though it won't engender resounding raves, the carefully sliced rare duck breast plate ($18) arrives promising - and delivering - satisfaction.

For dessert, the chef's souffle-style apple cheesecake ($6) makes a better impression than his green tea mousse ($6).

Neither, of course, being Italian, yet both produced at a restaurant named Rocco.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Rocco.

Where: 2930 Beverly Glen Circle, Bel-Air.

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekdays, for dinner from 6 to 11 p.m. nightly except Sunday. The enoteca serves a tapas-style menu of $6-per-item dishes from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. nightly except Sunday.

Behind the scenes: Chef is Hiro Bairin. Owner is Rocco Somazzi.

Recommended items: Assorted cheese plate, ricotta-stuffed panzotti with walnut sauce, tuna tartare, vitello tonnato, black risotto with calamari, red snapper on leeks, sliced duck breast with orange-ginger sauce, brasato (Italian beef stew) with soft polenta, souffle-style apple cheesecake.

How much: Starters from $6.50 to $16.50, pastas and entrees from $12.50 to $21, desserts $6 each. Full bar. AE, MC, DC, V, Discover.

Wine list: Offers a wide range of domestics and Italian imports that includes some high-priced local offerings (as much as $62 per bottle) from Giessinger in Ventura County, also $10 samplings of '97 Giessinger reds in barrels. No real bargains here although there are 10 bottles ticketed under $20. Sakes priced from $5.50 to $18. Corkage: $10.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three Stars for food; Three Stars for service; Three Stars for wine.