BEEF IS BIG AT FLEMING'S.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

BEEF IS BIG right now, if the recent surge of prime steakhouses is any indication.

Fleming's, which opened four weeks ago in Woodland Hills, fits right into the mold.

Situated adjacent to Roy's, the Hawaiian fusion spot also owned by the Outback Steakhouse people, Fleming's is the third of the nation's major prime steakhouse chains to open in the Valley.

Ruth's Chris is nearby in the Westfield Shoppingtown Promenade and Arnie Morton's chose Burbank (near NBC) to purvey its prime beef.

This new Fleming's, which tries to separate itself somewhat from the others by offering 100 or more wines by the glass, is a large restaurant that can seat 277, but opened its doors determined not to stretch its kitchen's capabilities too much.

By initially keeping its total of evening diners to 100 or less, it looked comparatively empty on some evenings soon after its Dec. 9 debut, and even had staffers brusquely informing potential customers that it wasn't accepting walk-ins.

However, the reservation-greeter desk became kinder and more hospitable later on and actually encouraged walk-ins to stick around and either eat at the bar right away or as soon as seats were vacated, or have a drink and wait for one of several tables in the bar area to become available.

Like its competition, Fleming's menu is strictly a la carte and delivers its supposedly superior slabs of meat all alone on a plate. Its sides, mostly of various potato and vegetable offerings, appear quite generous and shareable.

In a clubby environment that emphasizes rich cherry-tone wood paneling and orange-amber lighting, diners find it easy to run up the bill over and above the entree cost ($21.50 to $37) by ordering appetizers, glasses of wine, side dishes and dessert.

Yes, admittedly it's possible to keep an individual tab under $50 by picking the lowest-priced items, but not likely. With tax and tip included, we averaged $75 per person after two visits, much higher than the $45 average Fleming's says it gets.

We obviously succumbed to the lure of many interesting starters, the best of which were nicely executed fried calamari ($10.95) tossed in a sweet chile sauce, tasty baked and stuffed artichokes ($9.50) and a surprisingly large plate of fluffy lobster and vegetable tempura ($24.50) served with two dipping sauces.

Regular salads ($6.95 to $7.95) are respectable enough renditions, although a wedge of iceberg topped with crumbled blue cheese possessed some unappealing light-brown edges one time.

Also, onion soup ($7.95) comes up a tad too sweet, though triple-cheese rich, while passable ``jumbo'' crab cakes ($13.95) don't look large enough to justify the jumbo description.

Of the steaks, the 16-ounce prime rib-eye ($31.95) probably has the best flavor, but the trade-off is a preponderance of inedible fat.

Consequently, the filet mignon ($26.95 or $31.95) and New York steak ($32.95) get the nod as better recommendations.

Meanwhile, be aware that Fleming's Wellington version, called beef Flemington ($28.95), tends to be wrapped in slightly soggy puff pastry.

On the chop side, Fleming's kitchen broils up a superb 14-ounce medium- rare veal chop ($31.95), lovely and juicy with perfect texture. They don't get any better.

And thick Australian lamb chops ($31.95) arrive firm and flavorful. But each piece of baked pork rib chop ($21.95) needs to be swathed in its apple cider and mustard saucing to hide its dryness.

Recommended sides are macaroni and cheese ($7.95), asparagus hollandaise ($7.50) and shoestrings ($6.95).

Also, our vote went to the chocolate lava cake ($8.95) and baked Alaska ($6.95) as worthwhile endings.

As for predictable popularity, both beef in general and Fleming's in particular are unquestionably here to stay.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

FLEMING'S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR

Food: One star - Service: Two stars - Wine: Three and one half stars

Where: 6373 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills; www.flemingssteakhouse.com.

Phone: [phone].

Meals/hours: Open for dinner only, from 5 to 10 p.m. nightly, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Food type: Steaks and chops.

Cost: $$$. Starters from $7 to $27.50, entrees from $21.50 to $37, desserts from $7 to $9.

Credit cards: AE, DC, MC, V, Discover.

Patio dining: No.

Parking/valet: Valet parking at front entrance.

Full bar: Yes.

Wine/corkage: Has two large wine lists and an unrivaled 100 wines by the glass, sometimes poured directly from the bottle at your table, other times served in 6-ounce mini carafes. Corkage: $20.

Music/entertainment: No.

Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout, no on delivery.

Reservations: Needed.

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

Fleming's manager Jeffrey Harrelson, left, toasts as cook Thomas Yun displays the restaurant's rib-eye.

Joe Binoya/Special to the Daily News