BEAUTY OF THE BURGER PERK UP YOUR PATTIES WITH CREATIVE INGREDIENTS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

A burger doesn't necessarily mean beef these days. In fact, some cooks skip the beef altogether, instead using vegetables, beans, grains, fish, chicken, lamb or turkey. Those watching carbs leave the buns behind.

Just in time for Memorial Day festivities, you'll find more than 100 different classic and innovative burger ideas in the recently released ``The Great Big Burger Book,'' by Jane Murphy and Liz Yeh Singh (Harvard Common Press; $15.95).

``From its national debut at the 1904 World's Fair in St. Louis, the humble hamburger has become an American culinary icon,'' write the authors. Americans eat more than 38 billion hamburgers annually, or nearly three per week per person, according to ``The Dictionary of American Food and Drink.''

The versatile, all-American burger speaks to everyone, says Murphy from her home in Boston, adding that it is versatile in terms of ingredients and can be traditional, down-home, budget-conscious or upscale with incarnations such as lobster, duck or sirloin - and everything in between. There are all kinds of regional and ethnic-inspired options (Cuban, Korean, Greek, Asian, etc.) possible, and burgers can be served any time of day.

Among the book's recipes are 15 contributed by celebrated chefs, including San Francisco chef Reed Heron's Rich Man's Hamburger (with beef top sirloin, mustard, cognac and capers); Los Angeles chef Mark Peel's Gorgonzola Hamburgers on Nancy Silverton's Hamburger Buns; and ``East Meets West'' television show chef Ming Tsai's Tuna Shiso Burgers With Asian Salsa.

The book also features an array of 40 topping possibilities - including Fiesta Corn Salsa, Tomato and Leek Salad, Cucumber Mint Sauce, Carrot Daikon Slaw and more - that would work well as side dishes. Lots of them are easily prepared. But if you don't have the time to whip up your own toppings, there are plenty of great prepared gourmet options in supermarkets or available online, notes Murphy.

Remember, the recipes are just a guide, she adds. ``Like life, your burger is what you make it,'' so think with abandon, use what you like and invent your own creations by mixing and matching different proteins or vegetables, beans, seasonings, sauces, toppings and buns or bread holders. ``There is something here for everyone.''

To prepare the best burgers, start with quality ingredients and enhance them. The less - and more gently - you handle the burger mixture, the juicier and more tender the burgers will be, advises Murphy. ``Mix just until ingredients hold together.'' Be sure to add more liquid such as broth, tomato sauces or fat to white-meat chicken or turkey burgers, as they tend to dry out. Also, increase the herbs, spices and seasonings for best flavor, as poultry burgers tend to be bland.

While nothing beats an outdoor grill for cooking most burgers, some delicate fish and vegetable burgers are best cooked stove-top in a skillet, notes Murphy. If you want to try cooking them outdoors, be sure to put them in a grilling basket so they won't fall through the grill grate. Broiling is also a good alternative to grilling, says Murphy, but she avoids grill pans, as they don't sear well and tend to make burgers dry.

Whichever method is used, be sure to preheat the grill or skillet until hot prior to adding the burger. Grill or cook over medium heat.

To avoid flavorful juices from escaping - which will cause you to end up with a dry burger - don't smash burgers with a spatula during cooking, cautions Murphy. Also, flip the burger only once to keep it from falling apart.

While you can choose the degree of doneness for your burgers (it's a free country), the USDA recommends cooking beef, pork and lamb burgers to an internal temperature of 160 degrees F (no longer pink in center and juices have no pink color) and ground turkey and chicken burgers to 165 degrees F, points out Murphy. Although she cooks seafood burgers to 135 degrees F, just until fish is opaque throughout (to avoid rubbery, dried-out seafood), for safety reasons the USDA suggests 145 degrees F. ``A general rule of thumb for fish burgers is 8 to 10 minutes per inch of thickness, or about 4 to 5 minutes per side.'' The most important thing is to undercook seafood burgers. You can always throw them back in the pan or on the grill.

To check the temperature, use an instant-read thermometer inserted horizontally into the center of the patty.

Fish and vegetable burgers tend to fall apart when cooked, so Murphy suggests adding more panko (Japanese) bread crumbs or egg whites if the mixture looks loose. Also, pack the burger mixture in a 1/4- to 1/2-cup measure to form a firmer patty - and refrigerate 15 to 30 minutes (or up to 2 hours) before cooking to firm up.

Avoid cross-contamination. Always place cooked burgers on a clean plate - never on an unwashed plate that has held raw burgers.

The book is also sprinkled with lots of fun history and trivia about burgers and burger joints and includes a list of ingredient sources.

JALAPENO CRAB BURGERS WITH MANGO SALSA

1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage

1/4 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 fresh jalapeno chile pepper, seeded and finely chopped

3 tablespoons minced shallots

1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper 

Pinch salt

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons plain dry bread crumbs

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

6 individual size soft rolls OR buns

Mango Salsa

In a large bowl, mix together crabmeat, mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce, cayenne, jalapeno, shallots, black pepper, salt, lemon juice and 2 tablespoons bread crumbs. To make burgers, pack 1/6 of mixture into a 1/2-cup measure and place patty on a baking sheet. Repeat with remaining mixture. Spread remaining 1/3 cup bread crumbs on wax paper; gently press burgers into crumbs, turning to coat evenly.

In a medium nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Gently add 3 burgers and pan-fry until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Turn burgers carefully and brown other side. Transfer burgers to a baking sheet. Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining 3 burgers. Bake crab burgers in a preheated 375-degree oven about 5 to 7 minutes, until heated through. Serve on warm soft rolls and top with Mango Salsa. Makes 6 servings.

MANGO SALSA: In a medium bowl, combine 2 ripe mangoes (about 1 pound EACH), peeled, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice, 1/2 cup red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves, 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar, 2 teaspoons sugar (optional), 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes until well blended. Serve at room temperature.

From ``The Great Big Burger Book,'' by Jane Murphy and Liz Yeh Singh.

DELUXE CHEESEBURGERS

(On the cover)

1 pound lean ground beef

1 (1 1/4-ounce) package taco seasoning mix OR 2 tablespoons barbecue sauce OR 2 tablespoons pizza sauce OR 2 tablespoons ketchup

4 cheese slices

4 hamburger buns

Lettuce and tomato

Toppings such as salsa, barbecue sauce, crisply cooked bacon slices, ketchup, mustard and pickles

Mix beef with seasoning (OR sauce) until blended. Shape into 4 patties. Grill or cook patties in skillet over medium heat, 4 to 6 minutes per side or until cooked through. Top each patty with cheese slices; cover. Continue to heat until cheese is melted. Serve on toasted hamburger buns. Garnish with lettuce, tomato and your favorite toppings. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Kraft Kitchens New Classics.''

DILLED CHICKPEA BURGERS WITH SPICY YOGURT SAUCE

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas (garbanzo beans), rinsed and well drained

1/3 cup chopped fresh dill

1/2 cup minced shallots

2 tablespoons plain dry bread crumbs

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 

Vegetable oil

4 pita pocket breads

Spicy Yogurt Sauce

Tomato slices

In a medium mixing bowl, lightly mash 1/2 of chickpeas. Add dill, shallots, bread crumbs and lemon juice; mix well. In a food processor, combine remaining chickpeas, tahini, salt, pepper and cumin and process until smooth. Add to mashed chickpeas and mix well. Form into 4 patties, each 1/2-inch thick. Lightly oil a grill or heat a little oil in a skillet. Grill outdoors or cook patties (on the stove top) over medium heat, about 5 minutes per side, until crispy and golden on both sides. Serve in warm pita pockets. Top with Spicy Yogurt Sauce and tomato slices. Makes 4 servings.

SPICY YOGURT SAUCE: In a small bowl, mix together 1 cup plain nonfat yogurt, 2 large cloves garlic, minced, 1/2 teaspoon curry powder and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper.

From ``The Great Big Burger Book,'' by Jane Murphy and Liz Yeh Singh.

ASIAN TURKEY BURGERS

1 3/4 pounds ground turkey

1 1/2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil 

6 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon peeled, minced fresh ginger

1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro leaves

Vegetable oil

4 toasted sesame seed buns

Store-bought OR homemade wasabi mayonnaise

In a large bowl, gently mix together all ingredients except vegetable oil, buns and mayonnaise. Form into 4 patties, each 1-inch thick. Lightly oil a grill or heat a little vegetable oil in a skillet. Grill or cook burgers (stove-top) over medium-high heat until cooked through, about 4 to 5 minutes per side. Serve on buns topped with wasabi mayonnaise. Makes 4 servings.

From ``The Great Big Burger Book,'' by Jane Murphy and Liz Yeh Singh.

JERK-SEASONED PORK BURGERS

1/4 cup light mayonnaise

2 tablespoons ketchup

2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons jerk seasoning sauce

4 hamburger buns

1 1/4 pounds lean ground pork, shaped into 4 (4-inch) patties

4 green lettuce leaves

1 large ripe tomato, cut into 8 slices

Grilled Pineapple, Peppers and Onions

Heat barbecue grill or ridged grill pan. In a small mixing bowl, combine mayonnaise, ketchup and 2 teaspoons jerk seasoning sauce. Grill buns, cut sides down, 1 minute or until browned. Remove to serving platter.

Spread one side of burgers with 1 tablespoon remaining jerk sauce. Place sauce side down on grill; spread tops with remaining 1 tablespoon jerk sauce. Grill burgers 5 to 6 minutes per side, until an instant-read thermometer inserted from side of burgers to center registers 160 degrees F. Serve on buns with mayonnaise mixture, lettuce and tomato slices. Serve Grilled Pineapple, Peppers and Onions alongside. Makes 4 servings.

GRILLED PINEAPPLE, PEPPERS AND ONIONS: Grill 2 green bell peppers, quartered and seeded, 5 to 6 minutes per side, until slightly charred and crisp-tender. Remove to a serving platter. Lightly coat 4 (1-inch thick) slices fresh pineapple and 4 (1/2-inch thick) large slices Spanish onion with nonstick cooking spray. Grill pineapple 2 minutes per side or until heated through and onion 3 minutes per side or until slightly charred and crisp-tender. Add to platter; drizzle with 1/4 cup bottled low-fat honey-Dijon dressing and sprinkle with chopped fresh cilantro.

From ``Woman's Day Fire Up the Grill! Over 75 Recipes for Great Dining Outdoors.''

CAPTION(S):

3 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) The creative burger

Beef, crab, turkey - even chickpeas turn into flavorful patties

From ``Kraft Kitchens New Classics,'' Clarkson Potter

(2 -- color) Dilled chickpea burger with spicy yogurt sauce

(3 -- color) Jalapeno crab burger with mango salsa

Photos by Duane Winfield from ``The Great Big Burger Book''