BEANS The "Uncomplimented" Food.

Bean & Corn Salad

BEANS ARE OFTEN SEEN AS "POOR MAN'S FOOD." Few food editors rave over recipes when the central ingredient is beans. Rarely would beans be the first item considered as the focal point of a "company" meal. Even family members rarely commend the cook for a bean entree. Where are the compliments for a food that has been around for centuries? Why should they be viewed positively? Perhaps your perception of beans will change after reviewing their sterling qualities.

The nutrient profile of beans provides one avenue of compliments. Just one-half cup of beans provides 7 grams of protein--that nutrient that Americans place front and center. Protein is a part of muscles, enzymes, hormones, neurotransmitters, and provides the structure of every cell of the body.

Additional compliments are due from the fiber that beans add to the diet. Plant proteins are accompanied by indigestible combinations of hemicelluloses, celluloses, and lignans. Meat has none of these; hence, one of the advantages of a vegetarian diet. Fiber moves food through the gastrointestinal (GI) tract at a quicker pace than a fiberless diet. Cancer-causing components of food have less time to interact with the GI tract wall or be absorbed when things move faster. Fiber also binds with cholesterol to be excreted, a benefit to reduce coronary heart disease. Fiber may form gels with sugars, thus slowing their absorption and evening out your body's blood sugar levels--helpful for all, and especially diabetics.

Part of the fiber can be annoying. The starches raffinose and stachyose reach the lower gastrointestinal tract unchanged, where bacteria digest them. The outcome is flatulence. To reduce the gas-producing potential of these two carbohydrates, discard the water in which beans are soaked. Changing the water during the soak will get rid of more of the gas-producing substances. Boil beans rather than use a pressure cooker to further reduce the amount of these indigestible dietary components.

Beans provide other nutrients. The minerals iron, zinc, potassium, magnesium, and molybdenum are found in good supply, while sodium is practically nonexistent. Some B vitamins (thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, pyridoxine) and folacin are found in beans. The oil extracted from soybeans is exceptionally high in vitamin E. Sprouts of beans are high in vitamin C.

Rave compliments should be showered on beans because of the phytochemicals they bring to the diet. Soybeans are rich in isoflavones, for which new benefits are found daily. Currently they are credited with positive effects on osteoporosis, coronary heart disease, menopause, and renal disease. Other phytochemicals in beans include protease inhibitors (inhibit enzymes in cancer cells so growth is reduced), phytosterols (inhibit cancer growth in the large intestine); and saponins (inhibit DNA reproduction).

The family budgeter should applaud beans thanks to their low-cost protein. A comparison of the cost of beans and other protein sources shows it would cost around 45 cents for 100 grams of protein from beans, $1.10 from eggs, $1.15 from rice, $1.54 from hamburger, $1.69 from milk, $2.52 from beef chuck roast, and $11.33 from porterhouse beef steak at 1995 prices.

Acclaim, applause, commendation, and praise may just be in order for the nutrient dense families of beans. Their contributions to our health are noteworthy. Yes, a compliment is in order for these foods. And, while you realize beans are an exceptional part of your diet, remember the one who makes them delicious. Cooks thrive on compliments, too!

Cuscan Beans

1 1/2 cups dried white beans (soaked in water overnight)
1 quart water
2 garlic cloves, chopped
6 small tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 t. basil
1 t. oregano
1/2 t. sage
1 t. salt
1 T. lemon juice

Drain and rinse beans that have been soaked overnight. Place all ingredients in a saucepan. Cover and simmer the beans slowly for about 2 hours (or until tender), but not broken. The sauce will be reduced and thickened. Serve with warmed French bread. Serves 6. Calories per serving: 70; protein: 4.3 grams; carbohydrate: 13.6 grams; fat: 0.4 grams; fiber: 3.5 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Baked Beans With Links

nonstick cooking spray
6 slices Stripples cut into 1/2-inch
pieces
1 onion, minced
2 21-ounce cans vegetarian baked
beans
1/4 cup ketchup
1/4 cup barbecue sauce
1/4 cup brown sugar
salt to taste
6 vegetarian links, sliced in 1/2-inch
circles

Saute Stripples in a skillet sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. Add onion and saute, stirring until limp. Stir in beans, ketchup, barbecue sauce, brown sugar, and salt to taste. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add the vegetarian links, and simmer (covered) for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serves 8. Calories per serving: 308; protein: 15.1 grams; carbohydrate: 38.8 grams; fat: 8.5 grams; fiber: 11.75 grams; cholesterol: 1.5 milligrams.

Quick Burrito Casserole

2 cups cooked pinto beans
2 cups cooked kidney beans
1/2 t. oregano
1/2 t. onion powder
1/4 t. cumin
6 flour tortillas
cooking spray
cup low-fat mozzarella cheese,
grated (2 oz.)
1 4-ounce can diced green chilies
2 cups salsa

Drain beans (canned or homemade). Add oregano, onion powder, and cumin. Mix well. Cut tortillas into quarters. Spray bottom of an 8" x 12" casserole with cooking spray (Pam). Cover bottom with a single layer of tortilla pieces. Spoon a layer of beans onto the tortillas. Sprinkle with 1/3 of the cheese and diced chilies and 1/4 cup salsa. Repeat layer. End with a layer of tortillas, cheese, and salsa. Bake uncovered for 30 minutes at 350 [degrees] F. Cut into squares to serve. Serves: 8. Calories per serving: 270; protein: 15 grams; carbohydrate: 44 grams; fat: 5 grams; fiber: 8 grams; cholesterol: 8 milligrams.

Golden Curry

2 T. olive oil
2 cups onions, finely chopped
2 t. curry powder
1 t. cumin
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 t. salt
1/4 cup water
2 cups garbanzos, cooked
7 cups raw potatoes, peeled
and cut into 1/2- to 1-inch
cubes
1 T. tomato paste
2 cups water

In a frying pan, heat oil and saute onions. Add curry powder, cumin, garlic, salt, and water. Simmer until onions are soft. Combine this mixture with remaining ingredients and simmer 45 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. (Best prepared a day ahead to allow flavors to blend overnight.) Serves: 10. Calories per serving: 11; protein: 2.4 grams; carbohydrate: 21 grams; fat: 3.1 grams; fiber: 2.0 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Lentils and Basil

2 quarts water
1 cup lentils
1/2 t. salt, or to taste
cup rice
2 T. dry onion
1 large can tomatoes
1 small can tomato sauce
1 T. basil

Place water, lentils, salt, rice, and dry onion in a slow cooker or large kettle and cook until tender. Add the remaining ingredients any time during cooking time or at the end. Serves: 8. Calories per serving: 101; protein: 5.6 grams; carbohydrate: 20.6 grams; fat: 0.3 grams; fiber: 3.8 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Lentils for Baked Potatoes

1 cup lentils, sorted and rinsed
4 cups water
1/3 cup rice
1/2 t. salt, or to taste
1 medium onion, chopped
2 T. oil
baked potatoes

Sort lentils, removing any little rocks or other foreign matter. Place in a medium saucepan with water, rice, and salt. Saute onion in oil until translucent. Add to lentils and continue to simmer until lentils are tender (approximately 45 minutes). Season to taste. Serve over baked potatoes. Serves 8. Calories per serving without the potato: 118; protein: 4.8 grams; carbohydrate: 17.4 grams; fat: 3.6 grams; fiber: 3.2 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Southern-style Baked Soybeans

1 cup dried soybeans
1 onion, chopped
2 T. oil
2 bay leaves
2 T. beef-flavored seasoning
1 quart water
1/2 cup catsup
2 T. margarine
2 T. molasses
2 T. brown sugar

Rinse soybeans, and cover with water. Soak overnight or bring to a boil and let them sit for 6 hours. Drain. Saute onion in oil. Place in a large saucepan with bay leaves, beef-flavored seasoning, and water. Simmer 2 hours or until beans are tender. Add last 4 ingredients, and bake for 1 hour at 350 [degrees] F. Serves: 8. Calories per serving: 143; protein: 6.4 grams; carbohydrate: 17.5 grams; fat: 6.6 grams; fiber: 3.7 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Baked Soybeans

1 cup dried soybeans
1 quart water
1/2 t. salt
2 t. chicken-style seasoning
2 T. margarine
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
1/2 cup celery, chopped
1/2 cup parsley, chopped

Soak soybeans overnight. Drain. In a large saucepan, place soybeans, water, salt, and the chicken-style seasoning. Cook 1 to 2 hours or until beans are tender. In a frying pan, place margarine and saute garlic, onion, celery, and parsley until onion and celery are translucent. Add to the bean mixture. Stir well. Place in an oiled casserole and bake at 300 [degrees] F until water has evaporated and mixture is the right consistency. Do not allow beans to dry; cover if becoming too dry. Serves: 8. Calories per serving: 61.6; protein: 6.2 grams; carbohydrate: 4.4 grams; fat: 5.0 grams; fiber: 2.5 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Bean and Corn Salad

water
4 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
2 cans (15 ounces each) black
beans, drained and rinsed
3 medium-sized tomatoes,
chopped
1/4 cup cilantro, minced
1/2 cup minced red onion
1/3 cup lemon juice
1 T. olive oil
2 t. sugar
1 t. dry tarragon leaves
1 clove garlic, minced

In a large saucepan, bring 1/2-inch water to a boil. Add corn and boil 2 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water and drain again. In a salad bowl, toss together corn, beans, tomatoes, cilantro, and red onion. In a small bowl, whisk together lemon juice, olive oil, sugar, tarragon, and garlic. Pour over bean mixture and toss well. May be refrigerated (covered) to serve the next day. Serves: 10. Calories per serving: 172; protein: 8.6 grams; carbohydrate: 33.7 grams; fat: 1.9 grams; fiber: 5 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Roasted Soybeans

3 cups dry soybeans
2 quarts water
oil
salt

Rinse and soak soybeans overnight in water. Drain and spread on towels to remove all moisture. Spread beans on a cookie sheet and place in a 300 [degrees] F oven for a few minutes until the surface of the beans dries. Fry soybeans in 2 inches of hot (350 [degrees] F) oil for 10 minutes or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt. Store in a tightly closed container in a cool place for some time. Yield: 6 cups. Calories per 1/4-cup: 202; protein: 15.1 grams; carbohydrate: 14.4 grams; fat: 10.4 grams; fiber: 7.6 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Note: Nepalese people carry these in their pockets to eat during the day. For more elegant dining, after soaking, remove the brown skins. The soybeans then resemble peanuts to be served as a party hors d'oeuvre with a delightful taste.

Georgia E. Hodgkin, Ed.D., R.D., F.A.D.A., is an associate professor in the Department of Nutrition and Dietetics in the School of Allied Health Professions at Loma Linda University, Loma Linda, California.