BAMBOOM, LOUD AND CLEAR THE MUSIC'S PUMPED, AND THE FOOD'S PRETTY GOOD, TOO.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Throbbing drum sounds punctuate any attempt at quiet conversation on a Friday evening at Agoura's new dinner, drink and sushi spot at the entrance to Whizin's Arcade.

Hence the name: Bamboom.

It doesn't take long to realize it's a place not directed at the gray-haired set.

They'd be too busy turning down their hearing aids.

But it's obviously committed to dispensing good food at its tables and fresh and unusual sushi snacks at its sushi bar.

Consequently, I advise the older crowd to come here on a not-so-busy weeknight when the background music projects subtler drumbeats that don't invade every dining moment in such a raucous manner.

Even the service seemed more attentive on a quieter Tuesday evening than on that frantic Friday.

Meanwhile, Bamboom's kitchen certainly has some skillful hands supervising its self-styled ``coastal cuisine,'' attractively served up on large geometric white plates.

Beginnings, all shareable, are headed by a platter dubbed ``pork chop styx'' ($10) of a quartet of superb flattened boneless chops on skewers flavored with coconut and peanut sauces.

The moist, seasoned pork serving would, by itself, be large enough to constitute an entree, especially with a side or two of vegetables (potatoes, spinach, asparagus, $5 each).

Duck fanciers will thoroughly enjoy Bamboom's duck strudel appetizer ($14) made with roasted Muscovy duck meat studded with red and green bell peppers and rolled in filo dough.

The ``strudel'' arrives enhanced by an Asian pear compote with a balsamic glaze.

Nothing shabby here.

Take the house crab cake ($10), for example, a single patty of tasty, well-seasoned crab meat minus the usual pasty breading, spiced up with a hint of habanero chile, sauced with a creamy ginger mixture and a balsamic reduction.

This is the best crab cake I've experienced since the one eaten a couple of seasons ago at the restaurant at the Santa Anita racetrack.

And if you're as tired of everyday, overdone fried calamari as I am, try Bamboom's calamari trio ($11) of a mini calamari steak with a garlicky green salsa, baby calamari sauteed in a relatively mild white wine and chile sauce, and fluffy, tempura-style battered calamari with a sweet dipping sauce.

Good stuff.

And there's more from the sushi bar as possible starters.

In addition to well-executed and familiar sushi items (tuna, yellowtail, et al.), there are such nifties as ``roma caps'' ($15), consisting of marinated tuna, yellowtail and salmon stuffed into scooped-out roma tomatoes with red onions, jalapenos, cilantro and a yuzu infusion.

There aren't many entrees -- only six. And four of them deserve A grades.

Two are the lower-priced dark chicken curry ($16), fairly mild and delivered with a satisfying coconut rice accompaniment; and a roasted, herb-rubbed chicken breast ($18) with one wing attached.

The latter arrives perfectly cooked, tender and moist, sauced with a mustardy beurre blanc, and plated with creamy mashed potatoes and crunchy green asparagus.

The rack of lamb chops ($32) and the 8-ounce filet steak (around $35) are the two higher-priced main courses worth trying.

The five-spiced lamb has a spiced rum sauce and mango chutney to liven it up. And the steak sits in a rich hoisin sauce next to a mound of sauteed spinach. Both are accompanied by the impressive house mash.

A too-hard circle of dough spoils the otherwise tasty lump crab and lobster ``ravioli'' ($22) effort.

And a plate of soba noodles mixed with vegetables ($15) and a sesame miso broth pales in comparison to the other more creative entrees.

Bamboom is one of those places big on drinks and recorded music with a strong beat, and plasma television screens for sports fans, yet it smartly remembers that superior food is a very important factor.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

BAMBOOM

Food: Three and one half stars - Service: Two and one half stars - Wine: Two and one half stars

Where: 28914 Roadside Drive, Agoura Hills.

Phone: [phone].

Meals/hours: Open for dinner and sushi only from 5 to 10 p.m. nightly, sushi until midnight.

Food type: California cuisine and sushi bar.

Cost: Starters from $5 to $15, entrees from $15 to $35, desserts $8 each.

Credit cards: All major.

Patio dining: Yes.

Parking/valet: Free parking in lot. Valet planned for future.

Full bar: Yes.

Wine/corkage: Impressive sake list ($5 to $200) and respectable 56-label wine list. Corkage: $15

Music/entertainment: Nothing live. Strong background music. DJ Wednesday through Saturday.

Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout, no on delivery.

Reservations: Helpful. Needed on weekends.

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

Chefs Greg Tanihara, left, and Brendan Mica present Bamboom's Sopranos Roll and a duck strudel appetizer at the Agoura Hills restaurant.

Tina Burch/Staff Photographer