B. E. Caribbean travel guide.

When most of us think of traveling to the Caribbean, we dream of lazing the days away in a chaise lounge on a sandy beach or under a shady tree. Business and work are usually the furthest things from our mind.

But in the Caribbean, tourism is its business. In 1993, almost 7 million Americans traveled to the region, accounting for 52.5% of all stop-over visitors and one-half of this $11.1 billion industry.

With the globalization of business, more and more people are traveling to the Caribbean for work-related reasons. For some, these are formal meetings with managers and executives of regional companies; for others, the visits are short-term work assignments. Still others come for work-related leisure activities, such as incentive trips and conventions.

Whatever the reason for your visit, the Caribbean will welcome you with open arms. The islands offer the opportunity to network and share in a unique environment and cultural experience. Ire, Mon!

Paradise for rent

There's a hot new trend in Caribbean tourism: Savvy business and leisure travelers are discovering that for the price of a hotel room--or less--they can rent a one- or two-bedroom apartment with all the comforts of home--full kitchen, living room or sitting area, balcony or patio and maybe even laundry facilities or a VCR. These homes away from home offer a familiarity that sterile hotel rooms simply cannot provide.

Rental options are many. You can rent directly from a property owner, go through a stateside real estate agency or book a package at a condo hotel through a reputable travel agent. Most travelers choose the latter, letting a travel agent work out the details. A package deal is usually more convenient and reliable, with extras thrown in, such as airport transfers, maid service, manager's cocktail party, taxes and gratuities, and sometimes free admission to local attractions. Plus, you can put everything on a credit card up front. (Some independent rental properties don't accept credit cards.) Condo vacation packages are now offered by such major tour operators as American Airlines and Delta Dream Vacations, to name a few.

One of the biggest advantages--and savings--to renting a condo or apartment is being able to prepare your meals. "I don't travel anywhere with children without a kitchen," says Leslie Johnson, a Stamford, Conn., finance executive and mother of two. When she and husband Daryl decided to take the family on a Caribbean vacation, they opted for a rented two-bedroom, two-bath timeshare at the Costa Linda Resort in Aruba. (Timeshare owners frequently rent out their properties, and it's a good way for others to try out the concept without making a commitment to buy.) "It was very relaxing," recalls Johnson "and we definitely saved money." Johnson says her children were also able to play their favorite videos on the VCR after a busy day at the beach.

"More sophisticated travelers prefer to rent apartments," says Karen Knowles, tourism attache with the Ajitigua Tourist Board. "Families, older couples and some singles prefer this set-up. And many large hotels offer cottages or villas, in addition to rooms."

Almost every island offers condo resort properties, but you'll find the widest range of accommodations in the most popular destinations for American tourists: Barbados, the U.S. Virgin Islands, Jamaica, Grand Cayman, Antigua, Aruba and St. Maarten. Three personal favorites are Colony Cove in St. Croix, Island Pine Villas in Grand Cayman, and Barrymore Beach Apartments in Antigua. Also remember that on less developed islands, rates will be cheaper, but don't necessarily expect a modern, American-style apartment.

But, before you run out and book that ticket, ask your travel agent: Is there daily maid service? Does it have a kitchen? Are babysitters available? Are all taxes, energy surcharges and gratuities included? Is there a supermarket nearby? Is a security guard on the premises? Once you've enjoyed a vacation with all the comforts of home, you'll never want to make a midnight run to a hotel ice machine again!

The following resources list rental properties in the Caribbean. Find several that appeal to you, then ask your travel agent. Condo & Villa Vacations Rated, by Clinton Buff and Ellen Burr (Macmillan); Caribbean Travel and Life magazine, 8403 Colesville Road, Suite 830, Silver Spring, Md. 20910; call 301-588-2300. The Caribbean Coalition for Tourism's free 250-page vacation planner; call 800-356-9999.

Rewarding incentive vacations

Earl Tate thought he knew all about the Caribbean. He'd been there a few times and had enjoyed each trip. In February, however, he tried something different. As part of a group of African-American and white business and civic leaders from Boston, Tate spent five days at the Four Season's Resort in Nevis. Here he found a new element of the travel experience--sharing. "It gave us the chance to feel like a family for a few days," says Tate, chief executive officer of Excel Placement Inc. The ten couples on the trip, he adds, were able to "share everyone's excitement about the place, and enjoy each other's company."

With so many executives striving to create familial goodwill in their organizations, motivating employees through incentive travel is on the rise. Generally offered by companies as a reward to salespeople who achieve beyond year-end goals, incentive travel is not about taking trips; it's about creating one-of-a-kind experiences, complete with exotic destinations and luxurious hotels.

Yet that's not enough. To be truly successful, an incentive experience must include activities, such as beach Olympics, scavenger hunts, parties in special venues and private yacht charters, that are not always accessible to the individual traveler. For instance, Tate, went with his group on a private catamaran journey to a secluded snorkeling spot, and then on to St. Kitts for some gambling.

What can your organization expect to get back? For starters, improved morale and stronger relationships between incentive awardees and management. These feelings, in turn, can be taken back to the workplace to kick-off an even better year, according to Phil Duyff, president of Duyff International Inc., an incentive travel company in St. Louis.

Among the benefits for incentive winners is the brag appeal. "You don't lean over the garden wall and share with someone that you just got a $1,500 bonus in your paycheck. But you can lean over the wall and casually mention to your neighbor, "Carl you pick up my mail next week? I'm going on a Caribbean cruise."

Where to go for a great incentive? The Caribbean offers a wealth of idyllic incentive spots. If your pockets are deep, there's the Four Seasons on Nevis, the Caribbean's only five-diamond resort, a place, "that puts you in a mesmerized state," as Tate puts it. If your purse strings are tighter, Duyff recommends the Hyatt Regency on Aruba, his choice as the best hotel on an island that is a favorite with incentive planners for its unusual landscape, friendly people and new golf course. But for even more unusual experiences, take a look at these three Caribbean hideaways. Remember: wherever you choose to go, negotiate hard for discounts. Group discounts of 10% to 30% are not uncommon, even at the finest resorts.

Peter Island Resort & Yacht Harbor, British Virgin Islands (800-346-4451)

The best way to set a group apart from the run-of-the-mill vacationer is to take them someplace where there are no run-of-the-mill vacationers. That someplace is Peter Island, whose 1,800 acres are almost entirely taken up by its resort. After flying into nearby Tortola, groups of up to 115 arrive on this fantasy island via private yacht, where they'll find lush gardens, secluded beaches, gourmet dining and an array of water sports. The resort's management will arrange almost anything a group desires, and creative incentive planners have free reign to create themed events. Rack rates for a standard room are $19 5 (May 1-Sept.30) and $275 (Oct. 1-Dec.22) per night.

La Samanna, St. Martin, (P.O. Box 4077; 97064 St. Martin Cedex, French West Antilles; 800-854-2252) La Samanna's whitewashed villas and cool, tiled floors are like a slice of the Greek Islands planted amid the bursting colors of the Caribbean's bougainvilleas. Reopened after a complete renovation two years ago, La Samarma's 80 rooms once again offer their glorious views from atop a cliff leading down to the smooth sands and azure waters of the sea. Although a mere five-minute ride from Marigot, St. Martin's capital, the resort's 55-acres seem in a world of its own, although few adventurers can resist taking a trip into town to stroll its pretty streets and visit its fine shops. For groups looking to get some business done, the Private Estate Residence, an elegant villa with satellite television, which includes several large suites, is available. Standard per night rates are $410 Apr. 17-May 30, and Oct.27-Dec. 16); and $325 (June 1-Sept. 5). The resort is closed Sept. 5-Oct. 27.

Grand Palazzo Hotel, (Great Bay, St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands 00802; 800-775-3333)

Ths Mediterranean-styled resort more than lives up to its name. With its high arched windows, red-tiled roofs, spouting fountains and stately staircase, the Grand Palazzo appears more like a beachfront estate of the Medici's than a berth for the itinerant wealthy. That's not surprising, considering that Grand Palazzo's designers took their inspiration from the Renaissance Palazzo in Venice. Almost three years old, Grand Palazzo is aggressively pursuing group business with a dedicated meeting coordination staff and two oceanfront meeting rooms that can accommodate up to 100. Besides the usual water sports amenities, incentive participants here can enjoy sailing on the Lady Lynsey, the resort's 53-foot catamaran, clarksakes on the beach or colorful carnival evenings. Rack rates per night for a junior suite, its standard room, are $350 (until May 31; Nov. 21-Nov.30) and $250 (June 1-Nov.20; Dec. 1-19).

Business etiquette with Caribbean flair

Courting potential clients in the Caribbean? Cultural research can "prevent committing embarrassing gaffes," advises Christopher J. McGinnis, author of 202 Tips Even the Best Business Travelers May Not Know (Irwin Professional Publishing, New York). "Business travelers need to be aware of behavior that could not only offend, but doom a deal."

"The principles of the British way of life is the rule on the ex-colonies," says Easton Murrille, terminal manager of Almar Airport Services, a New York cargo company, whose clients include British West Indies Airlines. Murrille, a jamaican who has traveled to Trinidad on business, suggests being very precise in dealings. "If you say, let's meet for lunch," expect to have a formal meeting with the CEO and company executives, unless you specify otherwise," Murrille suggests. Like most places, the best hours for lunch are between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m.

For early risers, breakfast meetings are also a good idea. "The earlier the better," says Richard Costas, business editor of Caribbean Week, a newspaper based in St. Michael, Barbados. "People leave work early; you can't catch them after 4 p.m." Costas suggests you make business calls about 8:30 a.m. "After 12:30 p.m., it's difficult to reach anyone."

A casual attitude about time is often associated with the Caribbean. "In the past, businesspeople expected to wait 15 to 30 minutes when meeting someone," says Laura Lyons, president of Career Dynamics International, a human resources firm in Tortola, B.V.I. However, Roy Hastick, president of the New York-based Caribbean-American Chamber of Commerce and Industry, says, "[Now] five o'clock means five o'clock." People tend to underestimate the professionalism of the Caribbean." Also, remember that Caribbean countries remain on daylight savings time year-round.

When setting up a business meeting, "always reconfirm," advises Olivia "Babsy" Grange, president of the Kingston-based Specs Shang Artist Management. "It's not easy to reach people; there are still problems with communications here." Phone service can be slow and don't be surprised if you constantly get a busy signal, just keep redialing.

Climate aside, you should dress to impress; for men, a shirt and de will do. Women, however, "tend to dress very smart in business suits," advises Costas.

Networking Caribbean style

People-to-people programs are a great way to share ideas, information and interests

Want to get a "real" slice of island life? Whether you re going to the Caribbean for business or pleasure, check out the people-to-people programs. These programs help familiarize foreign tourists with local culture and customs by matching visitors with locals of similar ages, interests and experiences.

"Seasoned travelers often take advantage of these experiences. What better way to get to know a place than to have someone who calls it home show you around?" asks Priscilla Williams, assistant manager of the People-to-People Program in the Bahamas. "It is our No. 1 on-shore tourism program," adds Williams.

Now 20 years old, the Bahamas's program is the oldest continuing one in the Caribbean. A few other islands, like Jamaica and Barbados, have similar programs. But most of the smaller islands run unofficial programs during carnival and other large celebrations. While each people-to-people experience differs, this Caribbean version of networking offers a unique cultural--and maybe business--opportunity for visitors and natives.

Last year, my husband and I decided to spend our anniversary week in Nassau, before the birth of our first child, Marcus. Besides enjoying the sun, sand and gaming, we wanted to get a first-hand feel for Bahamian life. So, I asked the Bahamas Tourist Board if they could arrange a people-to-people experience. They set us up with Donna and Teran Nicolls, who are both entrepreneurs. Donna is a former high school teacher, who started her own bakery--Sweetumms Bake Shop--about 10 years ago; Teran is a civil and structural engineer, who recently set up his own consulting firm after working for a major local engineering company. My husband, Homer, is a computer specialist for a municipal transit authority. As for myself, I'm a writer/editor who tries to enlighten and entertain through my work. My husband and I both hope to own our own businesses one day.

Life for the Nicolls' isn't unlike life for most middle-class dual-career couples in the United States, who must juggle work and family. Both parents usually drop off the couple's two children, 10-year-old Noelle and 12-year-old Rande at school each morning. Donna usually picks them up after swimming, gymnastics or soccer practice. Donna's elderly father also lives with them.

Donna and her daughter met us for brunch at our hotel, the Crystal Palace, and after two hours of dining and conversation, we became fast friends. (Noelle excused herself to check out a movie playing in the hotel's theater nearby.)

After a sightseeing trip a few days later, my husband and I paid a visit to Sweetums, located on the southeastern side of the island. Donna arrives at the bakery by 5:00 each morning to help her staff prepare cakes, cookies, pies, rolls and buns. We weren't there that early, but we did get to sample some of the goodies later. We were invited to come to the Nicolls' home for dinner the next evening.

Teran and Rande came to pick us up for dinner. Not short of topics or opinions, and stuffed to the gills on cracked conch and baked snapper, we proceeded to talk the night away--covering everything from U.S. and Bahamian politics to the challenges faced by parents raising children in today's world. Although we solved few problems, we shared resources and experiences. We found that our challenges and fears, much like our joys and pleasures, were similar. Even the place of conversation, the dining room table, was culturally familiar. Bahamian or American--we really aren't that different. We promised to stay in touch.

Which island should I try?

It depends on you. In the Caribbean, there's something for everyone.

Don't believe it for a minute if a well-intentioned friend advises that once, "You've seen one island, you've seen `em all." Just as no two diamonds are the same, every "jewel" in the glittering necklace that is the Caribbean has its unique appeal, No matter what you long for, there's an island waiting for you to explore.

Here is an at-a-glance guide to indulging your favorite pastimes in the Caribbean. Okay, it's a biased list, based on my 15 years of "been there, done that" travel.

Best beaches: Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman; Trunk Bay, St. John's; Endeavour Bay, Mustique; Pinney's Beach, Nevis; Shoal Bay Anguilla; Eagle Beach, Aruba; Pigeon Point, Antigua; Grace Bay, Providenciales; and any of Antigua's other 364 beaches. Although technically not a part of the Caribbean, the breathtaking pink sand beaches of Elbow Beach, Bermuda are a treat.

Islands for casino gambling. Aruba, the Bahamas, St. Martin and St. Maarten, and Curacao.

Most awesome natural wonders: The Baths, Virgin Gorda; Dunn's River Falls, Jamaica; Boiling Lake, Dominica; The Pitons volcanic peaks, St. Lucia; Grand Etang National Park, Grenada; El Yunque Rain Forest, Puerto Rico; the Botanical Gardens, St. Vincent.

Best cultural vibes: Steel pan music and carnival in Trinidad; Junkanoo celebrations in The Bahamas; reggae, art and history in Jamaica; Afro-Latino dance in the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico; Indian heritage and ancient ruins in Chiapas, Chichen Itza and Cozumel, Mexico; the Friday night "jump up" in Gros Islet Bay, on St. Lucia; fabulous finds in vibrant Haitian art on St. Maarten.

Best golf courses: The Belmont Golf & Country Club in Bermuda; the Hyatt Resort at Dorado, Puerto Rico; and Palmas del Mar in Puerto Rico; the Four Seasons in Nevis; the Carambola in St. Croix and Mahogany Run in St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands.

Best historical sites: The Whim Greathouse on St. Croix; Alexander Hamilton Birthplace on Nevis; Devon House in Kingston, Jamaica; the Schoelcher Library and Gauguin Museum on Martinique; Brimstone Hill, St. Kitts; Old San Juan district, Puerto Rico. And hands down, the Barbados Museum.

Liveliest watering holes: Basil's Bar, Mustique; Rick's Cafe, Jamaica; The Lime, St. Lucia; Pick-A-Dilly, Nassau; The Calabash, St. Croix; any sunset cruise on the rocking Jolly Roger in Antigua.

Best islands for water sports: Scuba divers flock to Belize, the Cayman Islands and Bonaire. For sailing, the Bahamas, the British Virgin Islands and the Grenadines are tops. Windsurfers head to Aruba, Barbados, Cancun, Mexico, and Cabarete, Dominican Republic. Snorkelers go to Buck Island, St. Croix, and the tiny Dutch isle of Saba.

Most romantic wedding sites: Under the stone arches on Bermuda; on the banks of the White River at twilight in Jamaica; on the black sand beach at Diepp Bay, St. Kitts; on Rock Fort at sunset near Young Island (near St. Vincent).

Best islands for solitude and relaxation: Bequia, Carriacou, Marie Galante, Abaco, Montserrat, Barbuda, Anegada.

The best shoppers' paradise: St. Thomas, St. Maarten, Aruba, and Freeport, Grand Bahamas.

Best overall Caribbean experience: Gyrating wildly in the street, rum punch in hand, on any island during carnival. Wine yuh waist!

Island news

A 411 update of the latest changes and happenings

Unless you're a travel agent, it's hard to stay current with what's going on at your favorite Caribbean destination.

Here's a roundup of the island news:

* Much is happening in the Bahamas these days. The old Paradise Island Resort & Casino Hotel has given way to the new Atlantis, Paradise Island resort complex. Purchased last May by Sun International, the South African resort-development company, the 1,150-room property has been renovated to include a 14-acre water park that includes the world's largest open salt-water aquarium. Two adjacent hotels, the 71-room, suite-based Ocean Club and the Paradise Beach Resort are also being renovated.

The $250 million renovation is Sun's first foray into the North American market. Hoping to build a resort similar to its Sun City in South Africa, the developers supposedly were given the nod of approval by South African President Nelson Mandela. Besides marketing itself as a general tourist destination, the hotel hopes to attract meetings and incentive groups ranging in size from 10 to 2,000.

* In other news from the Bahamas, the Crystal Palace Resort and Casino in Nassau has changed owners and will be managed by the Ruffin Group. Now called the Nassau Marriott and Crystal Palace Casino, the hotel is undergoing $30 million in much needed renovations.

Just down the road, the Ambassador Beach Hotel has become the latest addition to the Superclubs Resorts chain. Now called Breezes, the hotel will be the first total all-inclusive hotel on Cable Beach.

* Air Jamaica is no longer a state-run company. The government of Jamaica sold a 70% interest in the airline to a group of local businessmen. The government has retained a 25% stake with airline employees holding the remaining 5%.

Air Jamaica has 80 scheduled flights weekly to Montego Bay and Kingston from New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore/Washington, Atlanta, Orlando and Miami. Early reports are that the planes have been refurbished and running better ... and on time!

In related news, the Jamaican government has banned the in-flight spraying of aircraft for insects when coming to the island. Airlines which fly to the country will be required to disinsect their planes as part of its monthly maintenance.

And, the Jamaica Tourist Board now has a 24-hour toll-free information and referral hotline. When calling from the United States or Canada, preface the 991-9999 number with the 809 area code; when in Jamaica, dial 0 plus the number.

* Golfers can now visit Aruba and indulge their favorite pastime. The island has its first 18-hole course, Tierra del Sol, designed by the Robert Trent Jones II Group. Managed by the Hyatt Regency Aruba Hotel, the course features a full-length practice range with double tees, and a practice putting green with separate chipping area and sand bunker.