Award-worthy.

Several award-winning spirits caught the attention of our resident experts, Robert Plotkin and Jack Robertiello, who tasted a range of new releases for this installation of spirits reviews. Other spirits won over our tasters with engaging aromas, layers of flavor and finesse in the finish. A few selections are poised to challenge adventuresome mixologists. Their tasting notes follow; some include insights on the distillation processes employed that make these spirits stand out.

ROBERTIELLO RECOMMENDS

One of the main characters in the make-up of Dewar's, Aberfeldy's two expressions have long been absent in the U.S. Not anymore, and that's a good thing. In Aberfeldy 21 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky there's an intensely malty aroma with honey and apples and a very light smokiness, a clean and crisp mouthfeel with lots of fruitiness at first--some passion fruit, Mandarin orange and candied violets. Finishes very dry. Clearly well-aged, but also youthful, fresh and inviting. Should be very appealing to those looking for age without aggression. (Bacardi)

Bar chefs given to searching the antique pantry for bygone ingredients have had to make due with syrups when they want to get an elderflower flavor. Now, they've got a cordial that tops any I've had. At first St.-Germain Elderflower Cordial fumes with Riesling and Muscat grape aromas; after that, some gooseberry and green plum notes emerge. In the mouth, St.-Germain arrives a lot like a beerenauslese Riesling, with flavors of tangerine, tropical fruit and persimmon especially, and a well-balanced sugar and acid mix. This fills a big gap in the cordial larder and should be an inspirational nudge to mixologists. (Charles Jacquin)

Venezuela's rums are well known for their richness, and Ron Macuro is no exception. In the glass, the rum bursts with aromas of marzipan and chocolate laced with orange rind; in the mouth, it's a sensual mix of marzipan, Viennaroast coffee and toasted almonds. There's a mouthful of acids as well, and a surprising tannic grip, but the finish is lush and persistent, with excellent balance. (Santana Liquors; available in Florida only)

From Anguilla, Pyrat Cask 1623 Rum pops with some uncommon aromas--green fig, for example, but also cooked peaches, bananas, prunes, raisins and orange zest--and overall, there's a rounded Sherry-like character. In the mouth it becomes a ginger-peachy and pineappley dram, with hints of orange; on the finish, dried cherries dipped in chocolate emerge as the flavors build in complexity. It's got a slightly syrupy texture, but not unpleasantly so, and the flavors hang in there as they evolve. (The Patron Spirits Company)

Not widely known, Tortuga 12 Year Old Rum is worth seeking out. This Grand Cayman spirit was a surprise winner at the recent International Cane Spirits Festival. It offers rich aromas of cooked tropical fruits and coffee cake on the nose. In the mouth, there are loads of sweetness at first but on the mid-palate there's a rush of island spices--nutmeg, cinnamon and mace--followed by the return of lush fruits including baked pineapple and fresh guanabana. There's a fresh, clean and bright finish, with lemony acids and a solid backbone overall. Mouthwatering and worth discovering. (Majestic Distilling.)

Young cachacas are entering the U.S. market at a torrid pace, but few aged ones are widely available here. What to look for? Ypicoa 160 Cachaca is worth investigating, with aromas of cake, nutmeg, mace and vanilla, and a rich robust flavor range that includes marzipan, spice cake and hints of tobacco. It finishes lighter than expected but spicy, with a rippling finish that suggests crystallized ginger, some great mouthwatering acids and moderate tannins. (Preiss Imports)

Jack Robertiello is web editor of www.adamsbevgroup.com and former editor of Cheers. He can be reached at [e-mail].

PLOTKIN'S PICKS

Crafted on a base of XO Cognac, Bauchant Pear XO Liqueur is a classy French import that exudes character and sophistication. The liqueur has the color of tree-ripened fruit and a straightforward, pear-forward bouquet. Its silky, lightweight body glides over the palate delivering a semi-sweet array of lush, spicy flavor. The finish is long and marked with sumptuous notes of pears and brandy. The liqueur is something of a mixologist's dream come true, and is indispensable for crafting contemporary cocktails. It's the real deal. (Palm Bay Importers)

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Evan Williams Single Barrel Bourbon is a spectacular, world-class whiskey, the only one of its kind. The 1997 vintage of Evan Williams Single Barrel offers whiskey enthusiasts a veritable extravaganza for the senses. It is endowed with a deep, mahogany color and a voluminous bouquet of vanilla, cocoa, pipe tobacco and candied fruit. The satiny palate is a lavish affair, a puckery offering of ripe cherries, cereal grains and fruit. The finish is like an extended paid vacation--delightful to the last moment. Remarkable bourbon. (Heaven Hill Distilleries)

G'Vine Gin de France is a remarkable spirit quadruple distilled in copper alembic stills from Ugni Blanc grapes of Cognac fame. The neutral grape spirits are then infused with nine botanicals and fleur de vigue, the distilled oils of the Ugni Blanc grape flower. The gin has a generous bouquet of lightly spiced, citrus and fresh floral aromas, a medium weight body and a voluptuous mouthfeel. The palate features a set of spicy, semi-sweet and floral flavors with a rush of lime notes on the finish. A small batch gem. (Pipeline Brands)

Idol is a French ultra-premium vodka handcrafted in small batches from noble Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes from the vineyards of Burgundy. The pure water used in production is sourced from the Cote d'Or. The vodka is bound to cause a sensation, especially with consumers who appreciate fine wine and the Burgundy terroir. It has a delectably fruity bouquet, plush, velveteen body and a delicate, sun-drenched palate. Distilled seven times and filtered five, Idol is a laudable, top-shelf brand. (Boisset America)

Gran Centenario has extended its world-class range of tequilas with the release of Leyenda Extra, an anejo aged an average of four years in French Limousin oak barrels, after which the Maestro Tequilero adds in older reserves to complete the blend. The ultra-premium anejo is a masterful achievement. It has a dark amber color with a satiny, medium weight body and a vanilla, clove and oaky bouquet. The palate starts spicy and finishes long and luxurious. Leyenda is seductive. (Skyy Spirits)

Judged the "Best Dark Rum" at the International Cane Spirits Festival, One Barrel Rum from Belize is a most wonderful spirit in a most undistinguished looking package. Its bouquet will make a believer out of you with its wafting aromas of ripe red fruit, spice, vanilla and raisins. There's a savory quality to it that is astounding. The palate is broad, lush and loaded with fruit-laced flavors. The rum has great mouthfeel and a remarkably long, flavorful finish. A bona fide sleeper. (HAP L.L.C.)

Santa Teresa 1796 Ron Antiguo de Solera was released to celebrate the distillery's 200th anniversary. This sensational Venezuelan rum is Solera-aged in French Limousin oak, a process that takes 15 years. The result is museum grade; a rum graced with a satiny body and the look of Port wood finished malt. The bouquet is laced with the aromas of honey and plums with floral notes. The palate is luscious and delightfully complex with flavors that persist well into its finish. Flawless. (Santa Teresa USA)

Even if you have no pulse you'll soon feel better drinking Zubrowka Vodka, a traditional Polish spirit distilled entirely from rye containing a slender blade of bison grass that's said to give one vitality and strength. The essential oils in the aromatic, hand-harvested grass give the tantalizing vodka a greenish tint, an assertive herbal nose and oily, medium weight body. The palate is spicy, peppery and reminiscent of a fine silver tequila. The finish is flavorful with a flinty edge. A European classic. (Marsalle Company)

Robert Plotkin is a judge at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and the author of numerous books including the 5th edition of The Bartender's Companion: The Original Guide to American Cocktails and Drinks and recipient of the 2007 Cheers Raising the Bar Award. He can be reached at BarMedia, 1-800-421-7179 or at [e-mail].