Autumn traditions. (Food).

Every fall, I search through my cookbook collection looking for two essential recipes: sweet potato casserole that is a little bit different and an extraordinary cranberry salad. This year, I was pleased to find three recipes for each of these autumn classics and a cornucopia of sweet potato desserts as well.

Sweet potatoes are as typical of autumn in Mississippi as football games and sweater weather. Their vibrant orange color can transform a dinner plate from summer pallor to fall brilliance.

Another burst of color may be added with a crimson mold of congealed cranberry salad. Although cranberries are raised in New England, Wisconsin, and Oregon, they have been popular in the South for decades, especially as traditional accompaniments to holiday dinners. But there is no need to wait until Thanksgiving to enjoy the ruby-red fruit; cranberries can provide a colorful accent to any fall dinner party or family meal.

Sweet potatoes, however, are the crop that inspires Mississippians to celebrate the fall harvest, and nowhere is this done more exuberantly than in Vardaman, the Sweet Potato Capital of the World.

Every year on the first Saturday in November (November 2 this year), Vardaman hosts a rousing Sweet Potato Festival. The popular event features concessions, crafts, sweet potato tote bags and T-shirts, cookbooks, and food. Those unable to attend may order the recipe-packed Vardaman Sweet Potato Cookbook ($15.00 plus $3.00 shipping) from: Vardaman Sweet Potato Festival Committee, P. O. Box 213, Vardaman, MS 38878.

One of the festival's best-loved booths belongs to Sweet Potato Sweets, where crowds line up early to sample sweet potato tarts, sausage balls, and other delicacies made of sweet potatoes by the bakery, whose permanent location is on Sweet Potato Street in the center of town.

The aroma of freshly baked pies and breads is irresistible when you enter this shop, which is open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. Owners Daphna Cook and Karen Wright create a mouth-watering array of goodies ranging from log rolls to fudge. Party trays may be specially ordered, and a mail order list is available by calling 1-800-770-5035 or visiting their website: www.sweetpotatosweets.com. Items may be shipped by UPS anywhere in Mississippi with delivery the next day. Only pies and breads may be shipped out of state.

To celebrate fall's arrival at your house, try the following recipes.

BAKED SWEET POTATOES AND APRICOTS


6 fresh medium sweet potatoes or 2
  large cans of sweet potatoes, drained
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 (17-ounce) can apricot halves
  in light syrup, cut into thirds
1/3 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup dry sherry
1 1/2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon grated orange peel

Cook fresh sweet potatoes in boiling water until tender, 30-35 minutes. Peel and halve potatoes lengthwise. Place in 9 x 13 x 2-inch baking dish.

Drain apricots, reserving syrup; add water to syrup, if necessary, to equal 1 cup of liquid, and set aside. Arrange apricots over potatoes.

In saucepan, combine brown sugar, cornstarch, salt, and cinnamon. Stir in apricot syrup and raisins. Cook and stir over high heat until mixture comes to a boil. Stir in sherry and orange peel. Pour mixture over potatoes and fruit.

Bake, uncovered, in 350-degree oven, basting occasionally for 20 minutes or until well-glazed. Serves 6.

Light Kitchen Choreography Ballet Council

Cleveland, Ohio

The Recipe Hall of Fame Cookbook

Quail Ridge Press

Brandon

PRALINE YAM CASSEROLE


4 medium yams
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
1/2 cup pecan halves
1/2 cup brown sugar, divided
1/4 cup melted butter
2 tablespoons butter, melted

Cook yams in microwave or on top of stove until tender. Peel and mash in large bowl. Beat in eggs, 1/4 cup of brown sugar, butter and salt. Spoon mixture into 1-quart buttered casserole and arrange pecan halves over top. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup of brown sugar. Bake uncovered at 375 degrees for 20 minutes.

ORANGE SAUCE:

1/3 cup sugar
1 cup orange juice
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon grated orange peel

To make orange sauce, combine sugar, cornstarch, salt, orange peel, orange juice, and lemon juice. Heat in a pan until thickened. Remove from stove and stir in butter. Pour warm orange sauce over casserole. Yield: 6 servings.

Pat Clark

Sharing Our Best

First Baptist Church, Forsyth, Georgia

Editor's note: In the South, sweet potatoes and yams are often used interchangeably in recipes. True yams are tubers from a different plant species raised in South America, Asia, and Africa.

SWEET POTATOES


2 pounds sweet potatoes
1 (16-ounce) can whole berry cranberry sauce
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
2/3 cup self-rising flour
2/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar
2/3 cup quick-cooking oats, uncooked
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons margarine or butter
1 cup miniature marshmallows

Cook potatoes in boiling water to cover 20 minutes or until tender. Let cool to touch. Peel and mash potatoes. Stir in whole cranberry sauce and cinnamon. Spoon into a lightly greased 2-quart casserole. Combine flour, sugar, and oats. Cut in margarine or butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Spoon over sweet potatoes. Bake at 375 degrees for 20 minutes. Top with marshmallows and bake until golden brown. Serves 8.

The Honorable Thomas R. Carper

United States Senator, Delaware

1st Travelers Choice Internet Cookbook

www.virtualcities.com

SWEET POTATO LOG ROLL


3 eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 cup cooked mashed sweet potatoes
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup chopped pecans
2 teaspoons cinnamon
Powdered sugar

Grease and flour bottom and sides of a 15 x 10 x 2-inch jelly roll pan; line bottom of pan with waxed paper.

Beat eggs at high speed with electric mixer until thick and lemon-colored (about 5 minutes); gradually add sugar, beating 5 additional minutes.

Continue beating, and gradually add sweet potatoes and lemon juice.

Combine dry ingredients (except powdered sugar) and stir into sweet potato mixture. Pour batter into prepared pan, spreading evenly. Sprinkle with pecans. Bake at 375 degrees for 12 to 15 minutes or until done.

Sift powdered sugar in a 15 x 10-inch rectangle on a linen towel. When cake is done, immediately loosen from sides of pan and turn out on sugar. Peel off waxed paper. Starting at narrow end, roll up cake and towel together, cool on a wire rack, seam side down. Unroll cake and remove towel. Spread cake with filling; reroll. Chill until serving time. Yield: 8-10 servings.

FILLING:

1/4 cup softened margarine or butter
1/2 (8-ounce) package cream cheese
1 cup powdered sugar
1/4 teaspoon butter flavoring
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Pinch of salt

Combine butter and cream cheese, beating until light and fluffy. Add powdered sugar, flavorings, and salt; beat until smooth.

Sweet Potato Sweets

Vardaman

SWEET POTATO CHEWY BARS


4 eggs
3/4 cup cooking oil
1 cup coconut
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 box dark brown sugar
2 cups Bisquick
1 cup chopped pecans
1 cup finely shredded sweet potatoes

Combine all ingredients and pour into 9 x 13-inch pan. Bake 45 minutes at 350 degrees. Makes 2 to 3 dozen, depending on size.

Sweet Potato Sweets

Vardaman

SWEET POTATO CARAMEL PIE


1/4 cup butter or margarine
1 (7-ounce) can flaked coconut
1/2 cup pecans, chopped
1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened
1 1/2 cups cooked sweet potato puree
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
2 (8-ounce) packages whipped topping, thawed
2 vanilla-wafer pie shells
1 (12-ounce) jar caramel ice cream topping

Melt butter in large skillet. Add coconut and pecans, and cook until golden brown, stirring frequently. Set mixture aside. Combine cream cheese, sweet potatoes, and condensed milk; beat until smooth. Fold in whipped topping.

Spread 1/4 of cream cheese mixture in each pie shell. Drizzle 1/4 of caramel topping on each pie. Sprinkle 1/4 of coconut mixture over each pie. Repeat layers with remaining ingredients; cover and freeze until firm.

Let stand at room temperature 5 minutes before serving. Yield: 2 Large pies.

Sweet Potato Sweets

Vardaman

CRANBERRY HOLIDAY SOUFFLE


1 package lemon-flavored gelatin
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 (16-ounce) can whole berry cranberry sauce
1 cup hot water
2 fresh oranges, diced
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup pecans, chopped
1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese
1/2 clip celery, chopped
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Dissolve gelatin in hot water. Heat cranberry sauce until melted. Strain off 1/2 cup juice; add juice to dissolved gelatin. Blend mayonnaise and cream cheese. Add to gelatin mixture with lemon juice and salt. Blend thoroughly. Turn into freezing tray; chill in freezer until slightly firm. This will take about 20 to 25 minutes. Turn into bowl and whip until fluffy. Fold in remaining cranberry juice, oranges, nuts, and celery. Pour into small molds or a large mold, and chill until firm.

Kitchen Table Bridge

Troye Demure Keepsake Cookbooks Adamsville, Tennessee

CRANBERRY SALAD


2 (3-ounce) packages cherry gelatin
2 cups hot water
1 (16-ounce) can whole cranberry sauce
1 pint sour cream
1/2 cup pecans, chopped

Dissolve gelatin in hot water. Chill until slightly thickened. Add cranberry sauce; mix well and chill. When nearly set, fold in sour cream and pecans. Return to refrigerator until ready to serve. Serves 6 to 8.

Sheila Moore

Savory Classics, Bell's Best III

Telephone Pioneers of America Mississippi Chapter No. 36

FROSTY CRANBERRY TIPTOPS


3 tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1(16-ounce) can jellied cranberry sauce, crushed
1/4 cup confectioners sugar
1 cup walnuts or pecans, chopped
1 cup heavy cream, whipped
1(3-ounce)package cream cheese, whipped

Add lemon juice to cranberry sauce. Pour into smallest size paper cups. Combine remaining ingredients. Spread over cranberry mixture. Freeze until firm. When ready to serve, peel paper cup from salad and serve, cranberry side up, on a lettuce leaf. Serves 6-8.

Mrs. William F. Goodman, Jr.

The Jackson Cookbook

Symphony League of Jackson

Editor's note: May use muffin pan liners instead of paper cups if liners are placed securely in muffin tins.