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Authentic Chinese cooking.


"BRING CONDIMENTS," EVERYONE TOLD US WHEN they heard about our upcoming trip. "Northern Chinese cuisine Chinese cuisine (Chinese: 中國菜) originated from different regions of China and has become widespread in many other parts of the world — from East Asia to North America, Australasia and Western Europe.  is bland and boring."

A friend of mine went on a tour of Chinese medical colleges as part of a lecture series, and I decided to tag along tag along
Verb

to accompany someone, esp. when uninvited: I tagged along behind the gang

Verb 1.
 for two weeks. Luckily, we found these naysayers to be quite mistaken as we embarked on our cultural and culinary journey through this ancient region. We stopped at vegetarian noodle shops, 'snack' stands, and food kiosks in railway stations The following is a list of railway stations (also called train stations) that is indexed by country. :Further information: List of IATA-indexed train stations Africa
Morocco
  • Casablanca
 and found the "food of the people" was fresh, hot, and served more for the natural taste of the food than for creative spicing. The Northern China taste profile in winter is a combination of dark soy sauce, rice wine and vinegar, miso (Multiple Inputs Single Output) Pronounced "my-so," it is the use of multiple transmitters and a single receiver on a wireless device to improve the transmission distance. See MIMO. , garlic, and sesame oil--very warming, very homey, and very tasty. We could have left the mustard packets at home!

Since we were guests of the colleges, we had many chances to speak with professors, students, and their relatives, who introduced us to 'authentic' Chinese cuisine. When we visited in their homes, we found the food ingredients were generally purchased for the meal. Because lunch was usually eaten at work or school, breakfast and dinner offerings were quick and simple preparations of fresh vegetables and noodles noo·dle 1  
n.
A narrow, ribbonlike strip of dried dough, usually made of flour, eggs, and water.



[German Nudel.
 or rice with the most common condiments, salt and dried hot peppers; common seasonings were minced celery, onions, and carrots. Cooking oils were 'vegetable oil,' a blend of regional vegetable oils <onlyinclude> This list of vegetable oils includes all vegetable oils that are extracted from plants by placing the relevant part of the plant under pressure to extract the oil. , for everyday dishes and sesame seed oil for special dishes.

When asked what a typical day's menu was, the university students in Beijing and Shanghai listed leftover rice, flied or microwaved with pickled pick·led  
adj.
1. Preserved in or treated with pickle.

2. Slang Intoxicated; drunk.


pickled
Adjective

1. (of food) preserved in a pickling liquid

2.
 vegetables, and coffee for breakfast. They may also have a glass of juice or a flesh orange or tangerine tangerine: see orange.
tangerine

Small, thin-skinned variety of the mandarin orange species (Citrus reticulata deliciosa) of the rue family (citrus family).
. For lunch, they grabbed hot noodles in broth broth

liquid media for culturing microorganisms.


cooked meat broth
a medium useful for culturing anaerobic bacteria.

enrichment broth
one modified to permit growth by selected bacteria.
, which contains steaming water with some onions and celery for variety, or brought cold noodles or steamed rice cakes from home. If they lived at home, they ate a hot dinner, such as sweet-and-sour tofu tofu

Soft, bland, custardlike food product made from soybeans. Believed to date from China's Han dynasty (206 BC–AD 220), tofu is today an important source of protein in the cuisines of East and Southeast Asia.
 with hot pepper cabbage or fried rice with onions, garlic, and minced vegetables. They also ate stir-fried rice with peas, corn, and tofu skin, which is made by skimming Skimming

An electronic method of capturing a victim's personal information used by identity thieves. The skimmer is a small device that scans a credit card and stores the information contained in the magnetic strip.
 the top layer formed when cooking soybean milk Noun 1. soybean milk - a milk substitute containing soybean flour and water; used in some infant formulas and in making tofu
soya milk, soymilk

soy flour, soybean flour, soybean meal - meal made from soybeans
. Available in fresh, frozen, or dried sheets, tofu skin is very chewy chew·y  
adj. chew·i·er, chew·i·est
Needing much chewing: chewy candy.



chewi·ness n.
 in texture and concentrates soy flavor. Other students purchased roasted white potatoes or steamed bread buns from a food stall rather than having to cook them at home.

Desserts were not very common but could include fresh or canned fruit and perhaps some walnuts or sunflower sunflower, any plant of the genus Helianthus of the family Asteraceae (aster family), annual or perennial herbs native to the New World and common throughout the United States.  seeds. We were in Northern China during the Spring Festival, and farmers' markets It has been suggested that this article be split into multiple articles.  and food stalls were crammed cram  
v. crammed, cram·ming, crams

v.tr.
1. To force, press, or squeeze into an insufficient space; stuff.

2. To fill too tightly.

3.
a. To gorge with food.
 with hothouse hothouse: see greenhouse.  strawberries, lychees, kumquats, and many varieties of persimmon persimmon: see ebony.
persimmon

Either of two trees of the genus Diospyros in the ebony family, and their globular, edible fruits. The native American persimmon (D.
, including an ultra-sweet version no bigger than a cherry tomato. Snacks or treats included sunflower seeds, taro taro: see arum.
taro

Herbaceous plant (Colocasia esculenta) of the arum family, probably native to Southeast Asia and taken to the Pacific islands.
, or potato chips--lots of salt, not a lot of sweet.

Dairy, formerly not much of an issue in China, was becoming one. Baskin Robbins and American fast food chains were introducing nontraditional dairy items, such as ice cream sundaes and milk shakes milk shake

a solution of sodium bicarbonate administered to racehorses by stomach tube 4 to 6 hours before racing to produce a metabolic acidosis. Promoted as a means of producing relief from tying-up and delaying the onset of fatigue by producing additional buffering to counteract
. Nevertheless, the Starbucks and Baskin Robbins stores we visited did have soy or rice milk alternatives to dairy ice cream and coffee whiteners.

Many of the students who were trying to adhere to adhere to
verb 1. follow, keep, maintain, respect, observe, be true, fulfil, obey, heed, keep to, abide by, be loyal, mind, be constant, be faithful

2.
 a vegan diet vegan diet (vē´gn),
n the strictest form of vegetarian diet, which prohibits the consumption of all animal products, including
 felt they could not rely on restaurants to be truthful about their vegan vegan /veg·an/ (ve´gan) (vej´an) a vegetarian whose diet excludes all food of animal origin.

ve·gan
n.
 offerings. This was also the feeling of several members of Beijing and Shanghai Chabad, an international Orthodox Jewish organization. They said that many restaurants interpreted 'vegetarian' as allowing animal fats such as lard, broths made with meat, or minced meat Minced meat may refer to:
  • Ground meat - meat that has been minced or ground
Minced meat may be confused with:
  • Mincemeat - a conglomeration of bits of meat, dried fruit and spices, commonly does not contain any meat
 as garnishes.

On the other hand, a monk who spoke at the Jade Pagoda in Shanghai said the Chinese are mainly vegetable eaters. He said that the average Chinese who continues to eat traditional foods lives on beans and soy, seasonal vegetables, and fruit. He said the quick cooking style helps to preserve nutrients and flavor, and cutting the food into bite-sized pieces prior to cooking saves fuel and is more artistic.

We found this to be the case as we proceeded on our journey. When we were in Xian, the breakfast offerings included congee with corn, baked tofu with rice syrup, vegetable flied rice, and a wide assortment of regional teas. One unique tea tasted and looked just like spinach. On the way to see an archeological dig, we joined 10 tour buses of Chinese school In Western countries, a Chinese school is a school established explicitly for the purpose of teaching the Chinese language (of the various Chinese dialects, nowadays Mandarin Chinese or Cantonese Chinese are almost always the ones taught) to American-born Chinese (ABC),  children at a 'luncheon lodge' and were served toffee potatoes (sweet potatoes served with caramelized rice sugar), red pepper red pepper: see pepper.  flied cabbage, rice bundles, braised braise  
tr.v. braised, brais·ing, brais·es
To cook (meat or vegetables) by browning in fat, then simmering in a small quantity of liquid in a covered container.
 gluten gluten, mixture of proteins present in the cereal grains. The long molecules of gluten, insoluble in water, are strong and flexible and form many cross linkages.  with straw mushrooms, and quickly-braised greens with garlic.

Also, we attended a "T'ang Dynasty Feast." T'ang, a vegan cuisine, was developed by Buddhist monks to make sure that the royalty and rich business people could both practice Buddhism and eat in the gourmet style to which they were accustomed. T'ang-era monks took taro and lotus root, wheat, yams and white potatoes, tofu and beans, and exotic fruit and magically transformed them into 'vegetable' roast pork, duck and goose, tangy fish, and minced shrimp. At the feast we attended, the menu included apple and pineapple salad, warm rice wine (with stewed stewed  
adj.
1. Cooked by stewing: stewed prunes.

2. Informal Intoxicated; drunk.


stewed
Adjective

1.
 rice in the bottom of each glass), rice cakes wrapped in lotus leaves, fried taro paste cakes, and sweet rice with red beans.

When dining in Dining in is a formal military function for members of a company or other unit. The practice is thought to have begun in 16th Century England, in the monasteries and early universities.  homes in Xian and later Beijing, we ate all available seasonal vegetables either stir-fried or braised; we had spinach, green cabbage, greens, turnips, or celery, either lightly seasoned with a very small amount of dark soy sauce or 'hot!,' seasoned with dried red chilies. Both the stir-frying and the braising braising: see cooking.  were done as quickly as possible, so the vegetables maintained a great texture and color, had a light taste, and were very filling.

We took a plane from Xian to Shanghai, and we were served the economy class meal of a 'veggie burger' (done Chinese-style with four types of mushrooms) on a delicious cornbread bun, congee with 'seafood' (made from soy), and canned lychees. This was not a 'special' request but the typical meal served that day.

Once we arrived in Shanghai, one of our choices was a Japanese breakfast, including miso soup Miso soup (味噌汁 miso shiru , two varieties of steamed rice, pickled vegetables, pickled plums, and flesh kumquats and pineapple. For lunch and dinner, the city offered lots of touristy 'T'ang Dynasty' banquets to show off this interesting cuisine. Although the restaurants that specialize in this cuisine are usually more expensive, we found several flourishing T'ang cuisine areas. We tried vegetarian 'duck' with almonds, vegetarian 'chicken' with dried lotus buds, and vegetarian 'meatballs' braised in pineapple sauce. We'll have to go back to the lab to figure out the exact combination of ingredients, although we were told that gluten played a big part.

Our next stop was Beijing, on our way to the Great Wall. Our first breakfast there, at a three-star Holiday Inn, included a choice of vegan dim sum dim sum  
n.
A traditional Chinese cuisine in which small portions of a variety of foods, including an assortment of steamed or fried dumplings, are served in succession.
 and plain rice congee Rice congee is a type of rice porridge that is eaten in many Asian countries. The word congee is possibly derived from the Dravidian word kanji.[1] In some cultures, congee is eaten primarily as a breakfast food or late supper, while in others, it is eaten as a , with pickled vegetable condiments; flesh, stewed, and dried fruit; and hot soymilk soy·milk  
n.
A milk substitute made from soybeans, often supplemented with vitamins.

Noun 1. soymilk - a milk substitute containing soybean flour and water; used in some infant formulas and in making tofu
, along with 'European' corn flakes corn flakes
pl.n.
A crisp, flaky, commercially prepared cold cereal made from coarse cornmeal.
, tinned vegetarian baked beans baked beans
Noun, pl

haricot beans, baked and tinned in tomato sauce

baked beans npljudías fpl en salsa de tomate

baked beans bake npl
, and toast. In addition, we were hosted at a business luncheon restaurant. All the items were simultaneously served on a turntable A playback machine for vinyl phonograph records, which were a major music distribution medium throughout the 20th century. The turntable contains a rotating platter to hold and spin the disc and an arm that holds a cartridge and needle (stylus). , with a selection of stir-flied spicy (chili (language) CHILI - D.L. Abt. A language for systems programming, based on ALGOL 60 with extensions for structures and type declarations.

["CHILI, An Algorithmic Language for Systems Programming", CHI-1014, Chi Corp, Sep 1975]
) cabbage, spicy (ginger) steamed tofu skin, corn and peas, steamed rice, sweet-and-sour tofu, flied lotus root, and flesh watermelon watermelon, plant (Citrullus vulgaris) of the family Curcurbitaceae (gourd family) native to Africa and introduced to America by Africans transported as slaves. Watermelons are now extensively cultivated in the United States and are popular also in S Russia. .

Eating vegan in Northern China is not a difficult task, as long as you encounter welcoming homes and follow the guidance of reliable monks!
BOILED RICE AND
MUSHROOM CONGEE
(Serves 6)

Similar to rice porridge, this dish
will warm your winter mornings.

1/2 pound long grain white rice (approximately 2 cups)
Vegetable oil spray
2 cups sliced, soaked, and drained
  mushrooms
1 whole scallion (white and green parts),
  chopped
1/2 teaspoon minced fresh garlic

Rinse rice under cold running
water and allow to drain. Place
rice in a heavy-sided pot and add
water to cover an inch over the
rice. Cover and bring to a fast
boil. Boil for 2 minutes. Lower
heat and allow to slowly simmer,
approximately 20 minutes, until
just soupy. Do not allow all of
the water to be absorbed.

Heat a small frying pan and
spray with oil. Quickly saute mushrooms,
scallions, and garlic until
just soft, approximately 2 minutes.
Add vegetables to rice, mix, and
allow to heat for 1 minute. Serve
hot. Season with soy sauce, pickled
vegetables, or another spicy or
vinegary condiment to offset the
congee's mildness.

Total calories per serving: 236 Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 49 grams Protein: 6 grams
Sodium: 6 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams

T'ANG DYNASTY
COLD FRUIT SOUP
(Serves 4)

The fruit in this recipe adds an
authentic texture.

3 1/2 quarts water, divided
3/4 cup pearl tapioca *
1/2 cup rice syrup
4 cups canned chopped fruit, chilled and
  drained
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

Put 3 quarts water into a large pot
and bring to a boil. Add tapioca
to boiling water. Cover and cook
over high heat for 30-45 minutes
or until tapioca look like pearls
that are slightly soft but not mushy.
Remove pot from heat and keep
covered. Allow to sit for 30 minutes.
Drain, rinse, and set aside.

Put remaining water into a
medium pot and bring to a boil.
Stir in rice syrup and allow to boil
for 2 minutes. Remove from heat,
stir in tapioca, and refrigerate.

To serve, combine fruit with
extracts and ginger in a large serving
bowl. Add tapioca-syrup mixture,
stir, and serve cold.

* Note: Whole pearl tapioca are
sold in Asian markets. Buy the
quick-cooking variety, if possible,
so you won't have to soak and
cook for a long time.

Total calories per serving: 326 Fat: <1 gram
Carbohydrates: 83 grams Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 72 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams

CABBAGE SALAD
(Serves 4)

This salad combines many Chinese
staples in one dish.

2 cups shredded green cabbage
1 cup shredded carrots
1/2 cup minced green peppers
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon sugar (Use your favorite
  vegan variety.)
1 teaspoon soy sauce
3 teaspoons rice vinegar
2 teaspoons sesame oil

In a large mixing bowl, combine
cabbage, carrots, green peppers,
and ginger.

In a separate bowl, mix the
sugar, soy sauce, vinegar, and oil
to create the dressing.

Place the vegetables in a large,
non-metal serving bowl, toss with
dressing, and serve.

Total calories per serving: 51 Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 7 grams Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 101 milligrams Fiber: 2 grams


CITRUS SNOW PEAS
(Makes 20 pieces)

20 fresh snow peas, blanched *, or
  20 defrosted snow peas
20 sections of fresh tangerines or
  canned mandarin oranges, drained
1 Tablespoon orange juice concentrate
1 teaspoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Wrap one snow pea around each
citrus section and secure with
toothpicks or skewers.

Combine the remaining ingredients
to make the marinade.

Allow the snow pea-citrus sections
to soak in the marinade for
at least 1 hour. Drain marinade
and arrange snow peas on a serving
platter. Serve cold or at room
temperature.

* Note: Snow peas need to be
bendable. If using fresh snow
peas, drop them into boiling
water for several seconds, then
rinse under cold water and drain.
Leave the snow peas in the boiling
water for the shortest amount
of time necessary for them to
become flexible.

Total calories per piece: 15 Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 3 grams Protein: <1 gram
Sodium: 17 milligrams Fiber: 1 gram

STREET SIDE TOFU
AND MUSHROOMS
(Serves 4)

A truly authentic entree!

Vegetable oil spray
1 pound (approximately 2 cups) extra firm
  tofu, drained and cubed
1/2 cup dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked
  and sliced
3 whole scallions (white and green parts),
  finely chopped
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with
  2 teaspoons water

Preheat a wok or deep pot and
spray with oil. Slowly add a quarter
each of the tofu, mushrooms,
and scallions, stirring constantly
over high heat, until the scallions
are slightly soft, approximately I
minute. Continue to add ingredients
in this manner; this should
not take more than 3-4 minutes.

When all of the tofu, mushrooms,
and scallions have been
added, mix soy sauce and cornstarch
together and quickly stir
into the wok to coat. Stir and cook
for 1 minute. Serve immediately.

Total calories per serving: 130 Fat: 3 grams
Carbohydrates: 13 grams Protein: 14 grams
Sodium: 172 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams

STIR-FRIED NOODLES
(Serves 4)

Cook the noodles until they are al
dente, firm but tender.

2 quarts water
1 pound (approximately 2 cups) uncooked
  noodles, such as vermicelli or rice
  noodles
Vegetable oil spray
1/2 cup finely shredded green cabbage
1/2 cup fresh bean spouts
1/2 cup minced celery
1/4 cup minced onions
1/4 cup conned bamboo shoots, drained
  and chopped
1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh button
  mushrooms
1 Tablespoon dark soy sauce
Vegetable broth, as needed (not more
than 1/2 cup)

Put water in a large pot and bring
to a boil. Add noodles and cook
until just soft, approximately 3-4
minutes. Drain.

Preheat a wok or deep pot and
spray with oil. Add vegetables and
quickly stir-fry, stirring constantly
over high heat until just soft,
approximately 3-4 minutes.

Combine noodles with soy
sauce and add to the vegetables.
Briskly stir-fry. If mixture is too
dry for your taste, add vegetable
broth by the Tablespoonful, allowing
each addition to be absorbed
before adding more. Serve immediately.

Total calories per serving: 430 Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 98 grams Protein: S grams
Sodium: 488 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams

SWEET WALNUTS
(Makes twelve 1/4-cup servings)

This recipe works for whole almonds
as well.

Vegetable oil spray
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon dried orange zest or peel
1/4 cup sugar (Use your favorite vegan
  variety.)
1 pound (approximately 2 cups) walnut
  halves or whole almonds
2 Tablespoons silken tofu thinned with
  2 teaspoons water

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray
baking sheet with oil.

Combine spices, zest, and
sugar in a bowl.

Combine nuts with tofu mixture
to coat. Toss coated nuts with
spices. Place in single layer on a
baking sheet and bake for 40-50
minutes, stirring twice to avoid
sticking or burning. Remove from
oven and allow to cool.

Store in airtight container
until ready to serve.

Total calories per serving: 266 Fat: 25 grams
Carbohydrates: 10 grams Protein: 6 grams
Sodium: 3 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams

RELATED ARTICLE: Soy sauce.

Soy sauce is made from fermenting soybeans,
water, salt, and sometimes wheat. Depending
on fermentation time, soy sauce can be either
light or dark. Light soy sauce is used for dipping
sauces. When we were in China, we found very
little light soy sauce in the neighborhood groceries
we visited, but we did find a variety of 'gourmet'
light soy sauces in several upscale department
stores. Dark soy sauce ferments longer, is thicker,
and tastes stronger than the light variety. It is primarily
used for flavoring foods.

Soy sauce seems to be a staple in Westernized
versions of Chinese cuisine, but it was not readily
available in the restaurants or the homes where
we dined. If you asked, some was poured from
a large container into a small side plate. We found
our hosts ate most food as it was presented, without
adding extra seasonings or condiments. One
of the older 'aunties' who cooked for us in her
home explained that soy sauce will destroy the
flavor of food. She told us that if you use too
much of it, people will suspect that some of the
ingredients are of poor quality or that you are trying
to cover up a burnt dish. Others explained
that 'the cook knows what he or she is doing,'
and they were generally satisfied with the dishes,
They also felt that soy sauce should be cooked
into the food to develop layers of flavor, rather
than being used like "ketchup at McDonald's."

Still, we did not find soy sauce to be indispensable
in Northern Chinese cuisine. Cooks
mostly reserve it for braising. Though they do
not use soy sauce when stir-frying 'white' (giving
food a light color), they employ it when stir-frying
'brown' (creating a browned texture). For example,
they will coat ingredients with a cornstarch slurry
first, then add some soy sauce to the dish.

When shopping for soy sauce, there are a
few things you may want to consider. Although
we could not find any low-sodium soy sauce
in China, you can purchase this product in the
West, or you can use your favorite soy sauce, cut
in half and replaced with rice vinegar, lemon juice,
vegetable broth, or water. Shoyu sauce is soy sauce
made from a blend of wheat and soybeans, while
tamari is made only from soybeans. This can be
important information for people who are trying
to avoid wheat products.

RELATED ARTICLE: Vegan eating in Beijing and Shanghai.

We were warned that many Chinese restaurants labeled as "vegetarian"
actually use meat broth or garnish with minced meat. Therefore, we went
to a reliable source, Buddhist monks at a temple in Shanghai, for
recommendations. They listed the following restaurants as reliably
vegan, with long-standing traditions of having animal product-free
kitchens:

* Gong de Lin
58 Qianmen Nan Dajie
Chongwen District
Beijing

445 Nanjing Xi Lu
Xu Jia District
Shanghai

Both restaurants are state-owned and
--run; they claim to have been in business
for 70-80 years, depending on
who you talk to. Very simple menus
of noodles, stir-fried rice dishes, rice
bundles, and some steamed buns.

* Green Tianshi Vegetarian Restaurant
57 Dengshikou
Dongcheng District
Beijing
<www.greentianshi.com>

This restaurant is famous for using
vegan 'meat,' including Beijing 'duck,'
which is tea-smoked gluten. Offerings
varied daily, and it can get crowded
at night for dinner.

* Jade Buddha Temple
999 Jiangning Lu
Putuo Distrid
Shanghai

The noodle shop, serving noodles
in vegetable broth, is downstairs
from the temple. The upstairs restaurant
has lots of ambience, including
carved Buddhas and tapestries, and
offers the "Cuisine of the Emperor,"
with multi-course meals of vegan
'meat, fish, and poultry' and elaborate
vegetable garnishings.


Nancy Berkoff, RD, EdD, CCE CCE Cornell Cooperative Extension
CCE Corporate and Continuing Education
CCE Coca-Cola Enterprises Inc.
CCE Commission de Coopération Environnementale
CCE Centre for Continuing Education
CCE College of Continuing Education
CCE Certified Computer Examiner
, is VRG's Food Service Advisor and the author of Vegan Menu for People with Diabetes.
COPYRIGHT 2005 Vegetarian Resource Group
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2005, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Author:Berkoff, Nancy
Publication:Vegetarian Journal
Geographic Code:9CHIN
Date:Jul 1, 2005
Words:3073
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