At-home facial peels enter the mainstream.

DON'T DENY your age. Defy it! That was actress Melanie Griffith's battle cry in an ad campaign for Revlon a few years ago. Now, with the availability of at-home facial peels, women really can defy the premature signs of aging. Coming to the rescue is glycolic acid, a well-known alpha hydroxy acid, which is usually the principal ingredient in such delivery systems. It makes skin better able to absorb moisture, removes dead, dry and dull cells from the surface of skin, diminishes the appearance of fine lines, refines and smoothes skin texture, unclogs pores and bestows a more youthful appearance to skin. And its effects are cumulative in nature.

According to a recent study by the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, the use of chemical peels rose 46% in 2003. Of course, in addition to cosmetic procedures, women turn to creams, lotions, gels, oils and masks to beautify their skin. These products have created a $5.5 billion industry in the U.S. In fact, there are so many types of anti-aging products available that product selection and purchase becomes very confusing. In fact, a survey by the American Academy of Dermatology found that 94% of women are confused by myriad anti-aging treatments available both over-the-counter and by prescription.

An Array of Choices

There are a variety of at-home facial peels available. Consumers are advised to select the product for their specific skin type. Some contain a combination of AHAs and others use only glycolic acid as the primary active. Furthermore, there are proprietary glycolic acid peel solutions available at dermatologists' office, which range in strength from 20-70%. They are not neutralized or buffered and usually elicit noticeable exfoliation. Different strength products are used by professionals, and are based on the patient's skin type and desired level of exfoliation. Professionals watch out for key signals such as irritation, burning and stinging associated with any product. Such reactions are not permitted to manifest by continuously rinsing with cool water followed by a treatment with a facial moisturizer to provide relief and protection.

Exfoliation Methods

Glycolic acid works by stimulating new growth of skin collagen by breaking down the substance in skin that holds the cells together. This removes dead cells and gradually leaves behind a layer of smoother and softer skin. There are two classes of peels--laser and chemical.

Laser peels are used to treat wrinkles, acne sears and sun-damaged skin. They provide cosmetic benefits and improve skin. The procedure is performed by dermatologists.

There are three categories of chemical peels--superficial, medium and deep.

At-home peels fall into the superficial and medium categories. They are very popular and remove only the epidermal cells. Glycolic acid is usually the active at a level of 8-10% and a pH between 3.5-4.0. It is used to lighten superficial age spots and fine wrinkles. By carefully following label directions, the consumer can generally expect satisfactory results.

According to Dr. Matarasso, associate clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California at San Francisco, the variables affecting the depth of superficial chemical peels include the agent concentration, the number of applications, the frequency of repeated treatments and the duration the agent is kept in contact with the skin. With so-called superficial peeling agents, it may not be possible to reach the same end point as with a medium-depth peel; however, it is possible to push it quite deep and get sufficient exfoliation or into the papillary dermis.

Medium peels contain trichloro-acetic acid (TCA). Dermatologists use these peels to treat wrinkles, skin pigment problems, advanced sun-damaged skin, age lines and blemishes.

Deep peels are performed with solutions containing phenol and correct more severe conditions. Dermatologists determine which of the medium or deep peels are suitable for their patients. They generally produce long-lasting results, but also have several disadvantages including uneven lightening of the skin, scarring and infection. These peel procedures are best performed by dermatologists.

At-Home Product Offerings

There are few side effects associated with at-home superficial peels, and they can be minimized if directions are closely followed. Sometimes it is common for consumers to feel a slight burning sensation that may last a short time. Consumers are advised to use moisturizers with sunscreen at all times and it is advisable to avoid direct exposure to sunlight. Depending on the depth of the peel, skin returns to normal fairly quickly.

Brands such as Avon, Lancome and Neutrogena have all added at-home facial peels to their lines. As a result, consumers can pick and choose peels according to their individual requirements. It is just a matter time before other companies launch at-home facial peels because these products offer consumers advantages in cost, convenience and perceivable results in a short period of time.

"Peels treat the face like a canvas," observed Katie Rodan, associate clinical professor of dermatology at Stanford University. "They can make the whole complexion look brighter and younger."

Here's a review of some popular brands and their product claims.

Avon Anew Clinical

* After one use, see a smooth, radiant texture, more refined clarity and unclogged pores;

* After four uses (one week), the benefits intensify. Skin appears less lined and more even-toned with smaller looking pores;

* 100% of women showed improvement in texture, clarity and clogged pores;

* 81% showed a boost in luminosity;

* Continued use delivers optimal results. Two-step facial peels help renew environmentally- and sun-damaged skin, virtually erasing skin imperfections over time;

* More than half of the panelists displayed a decrease in the appearance of age spots and freckles;

* Nearly 66% had less blotchy skin;

* 81% experienced a decrease in fine wrinkles;

* 91% showed improvement in even skin tone;

* Every woman tested showed an improvement in overall signs of aging and

* Dermatologist tested and non-comedogenic.

Neutrogena Advanced Solutions

* Instantly improves skin texture, tone and clarity;

* Transforms dull skin into vibrant, radiant skin;

* Smooths away the appearance of dry, fine lines and

* Helps stimulate surface skin cell renewal.

Lancome Resurface Peel

* Enhances skin radiance (86%);

* Improves skin texture (98%);

* Improves skin tone (88%);

* Improves uniformity of complexion (73%) and

* Minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Ellen Lange Retexturizing Kit

* Exfoliates skin with glycolic acid, enzymes and microbeads;

* Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles;

* Renews and rejuvenates environmentally and sun-damaged skin and

* Gives skin a healthy glow.

MD Skincare Daily Facial Peel

* For normal, dry and problem skin, the ready-to-use pad is a unique, two-step system

* Pads contain a precise blend of alpha- and beta hydroxy acids, antioxidants (vitamins A, C and E), soothing green tea extract and an oil-free moisturizer to give skin of any age a healthier, more vibrant appearance.

DDF 7-Day Radiance Peel Kit

* Effectively minimizes fine lines and wrinkles, smooths skin texture and reduces pore size while diminishing free radical damage;

* Renews environmentally and sun-damaged skin, improving skin density and firmness;

* Supports healthy cell renewal by restoring skin's own collagen-building function;

* Exfoliation properties may be used to help prevent and control blemishes;

Therapy Systems

* A glycolic peel that you can use at home.

Conclusion

Dermatologists, aestheticians and plastic surgeons have performed facial peel procedures for years. Now, with the birth of at-home peels, consumers can expect satisfactory results without having to visit a doctor's office. In time, these products will become very popular with consumers because they are safe, easy to use and require no recovery time.

As the category grows and evolves we will learn neat insights that will become foundations for future products and help baby boomers retain a youthful look for years to come.

References:

(1.) Facial Skincare. U.S. February 2002. Mintel International Group Ltd.

(2.) Facing the Age-old Question: How to turn back the hands of time. American Academy of Dermatology. Schaumburg, IL. Nov. 6, 2003.

NAVIN GERIA IS VICE PRESIDENT OF RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT FOR LEOERMA CONSUMER PRODUCTS LABORATORIES LOCATED IN BEVERLY HILLS, CA, AND NJ TO LEAD THE WORLDWIDE R&D EFFORTS IN DEVELOPING OPING INNOVATIVE CONSUMER PRODUCTS. HE HAS MORE THAN 30 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE IN THE PERSONAL CARE INDUSTRY AND WAS PREVI0USLY WITH PFIZER, WARNER-LAMBERT SCHICK AND BRISTOL-MYERS.HE HAS EARNED OVER 15 U.S. PATENTS, HAS BEEN PUBLISHED IN COSMETIC TRADE MAGAZINES, HAS BEEN A SPEAKER AND MODERATOR AT COSMETIC INDUSTRY EVENTS.

E-MAIL; NAVINLEDERMA @YAHOO.COM