Anything you can do icon do better; Taste Test Jane Haase enjoys the dark and delightful world of Alma de Santiago.

Byline: Jane Haase

THE team behind city centre celebrity haunts like Alma de Cuba and formerly the Pan American and Blue bars are now attempting to work their magic in the suburbs.

What was once plain old Dovedale Towers on Penny Lane has been reborn as South American themed bar/restaurant Alma de Santiago.

I had only visited the premises in its previous incarnation a couple of times and, although a striking building, it was not living up to its potential. It was nothing special and just seemed typical of any number of pubs you might visit to watch the footy in.

You certainly couldn't watch the footy there now - it's far too dark and, for me, that's a definite plus. I don't know whether The Lyceum Group, who are behind the venture, always intended to roll out the Alma de ... theme or whether they just had a lot of religious memorabilia left over from converting St Peter's Church in Seel Street, but Alma de Santiago is something of a mishmash.

It looks as though the owners have raided a church and a taxidermist for the interior design.

Religious icons mix with disconcertingly realistic mannequins. Pictures of saints hang from the walls alongside a stuffed moose's head and pheasants. In the dining room a picture of the Last Supper looks down at you from one wall while the giant face of a chimp stares at you from another, complete with potted palm tree in front of it - bizarre. Well, whatever your feelings on the use of religious icons in this way, one thing it's not is bland. You either love it or hate it - and I loved it, although I did feel a bit uncomfortable getting up close and personal with a statue of Saint Elisabeth when ordering drinks.

The main bar area is dark and moody with gothic style furniture illuminated by an elaborate candelabra. You can order tapas here or eat in the restaurant which has a more extensive menu. This is much better lit so you can see what you are eating and rather incongruously the tables are of a modern light coloured wood as opposed to the gothic feel of the rest of the place.

It's only been open just over two months and, although we went on a Tuesday night, the restaurant was busy.

I imagine it will still get its fair share of the local student population but on the night I went I was celebrating my 40th birthday and, thankfully, I didn't feel like the oldest swinger in town. There was a good mix of ages in the restaurant and it wasn't just couples but groups of friends as well.

My husband and I shared a selection of tapas for starters - the menu recommended a minimum of three dishes between two people and we found this just about right. We shared a grilled tiger prawn brochette (pounds 3.95), crab croquetas (pounds 3.95) and crisp chilli chicken fillets (pounds 3.95). Before these arrived our waitress brought us a selection of dipping sauces, to use with both starters and main courses, and explained what each of them were.

The tapas were delicious. The prawn brochette consisted of eight large juicy prawns on skewers and at pounds 3.95 was a very generous portion. The crab croquetas - two large fluffy croquettes with a red onion relish and a strong hint of lime - were lovely. The crispy chicken fillets were delicious in the dipping sauces.

I really struggled deciding on my main course because there were so many interesting dishes to choose from with prices starting from pounds 7.95 to pounds 20.

They ranged from spicy chorizo sausages and "beef jalapeno patty" (a beefburger to you and me) to fillet steak and lamb rump.

I went for the luxury chilli con carne (pounds 9.95). This wasn't your usual beef mince but chunks of braised beef which melted in the mouth and were served with a fragrant citrus rice. But be warned, this is very hot.

My husband had the Argentinean fillet steak (pounds 19.95) which came with chive and manchego mash with red cabbage. He said his steak was lovely and used the dipping sauces provided but felt his mash was disappointingly bland.

Unlike the main course I actually struggled to pick a dessert I liked. In the end I went for summer fruits poached in tequila served in a brandy snap basket topped with lemon sorbet, but I found the tequila a bit over powering.

My husband loved the chocolate chip cookie served with a crushed Brazil nut Chantilly cream (pounds 4.95).

A few local celebrities have already been spotted in Alma de Santiago and with food this good, I'm sure it won't be long before the rest follow.

Foodie Facts

Venue: Alma de Santiago, Penny Lane,

Liverpool L18.

Tel: [phone]

Atmosphere: Bizarre, but I like it.

The bill: pounds 69.80 (including a bottle of

Chardonnay at pounds 16.45).

Service: Excellent.

CAPTION(S):

FOOD FOR THOUGHT: Alma de Santiago in the former Dovedale Towers has an eclectic style